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XLbc  IRural  Science  Series 

Edited  by  L.  H.  BAILEY 


THE   TRAINING   AND   BREAKING 

OF   HORSES 


STJjc  Eural  Science  Series 

The  Soil. 

The  Spraying  of  Plants. 

Milk  and  its  Products. 

The  Fertility  of  the  Land. 

The  Principles  of  Fruit-Gbowing. 

Bush-Fruits. 

Fertilizers. 

The  Principles  of  Agriculture.     15th  Ed. 

Irrigation  and  Drainage, 

The  Farmstead. 

Rural  Wealth  and  Welfare. 

The  Principles  of  Vegetable-Gardening. 

Farm  Poultry. 

The  Feeding  of  Animals. 

The  Farmer's  Business  Handbook. 

The  Diseases  of  Animals. 

The  Horse. 

How  TO  Choose  a  Farm. 

Forage  Crops. 

Bacteria  in  Relation  to  Country  Life. 

The  Nursery-Book. 

Plant-Breeding.    4th  Ed. 

The  Forcing-Book. 

The  Pruning-Book. 

Fruit-Growing  in  Arid  Regions. 

Rural  Hygiene. 

Dry-Farming. 

Law  for  the  American  Farmer. 

Farm  Boys  and  Girls. 

The  Training  and  Breaking  of  Horses. 

Others  in  preparation. 


THE 


TRAINING  AND  BREAKING 

OF  HORSES 


BY 
MERRITT  W.    HARPER 

ASSISTANT    PROFESSOR    OF    ANIMAL    HUSBANDRY 
NEW  YORK  STATE  COLLEGE  OF  AGRICULTURE 

AT  CORNELL  UNIVERSITY 
AUTHOR    OP    "manual   OF    FARM    ANIMALS  " 


THE   MACMILLAN   COMPANY 

1912 

All  rights  reserved 


v^ilX  \  K^ 


Copyright,  1912, 
By  the  MACMILLAN  COMPANY. 


Set  up  and  electrotyped.     Published  March,  1912. 


Nariuoot)  }|res0 

J.  S.  Cashing  Co.  —  Berwick  &  Smith  Co. 

Norwood,  Mass.,  U.S.A. 


PREFACE 

The  horse  occupies  a  unique  position  because  he 
is  used  as  man's  principal  beast  of  burden  and  is  con- 
stantly associated  with  him  in  the  performance  of  his 
daily  work.  This  labor  and  association  establishes 
a  close  relationship.  The  effectiveness  with  which 
the  work  is  performed,  and  perhaps  success,  depend 
on  their  mutual  understanding.  In  performing  this 
work  it  becomes  necessary  to  trust  the  horse.  This 
trust  is  often  great,  and  the  safety  of  the  master  will 
depend  largely  on  the  understanding  he  has  with  his 
horse. 

Since  the  effectiveness  of  the  horse  and  the  safety 
of  the  master  and  his  family  depend  so  largely  upon 
the  understanding  between  man  and  horse,  it  seems 
worth  while  to  give  the  methods  of  establishing  agree- 
able relationships  careful  consideration.  It  has  been 
with  a  view  of  aiding  to  promote  this  that  the  present 
volume  is  written.  This  is  done  with  the  thought 
that  the  usefulness  of  the  horse  depends  on  his  being 
readily  subservient  to  his  master's  will,  and  an  attempt 
is  made  to  set  forth  the  methods  that  are  most  likely 
to  bring  this  about. 

Beginning  with  the  foal,  each  class  of  horse  is  con- 
sidered,   and    a    separate    chapter   is   devoted   to    the 


vi  Preface 

education  of  the  more  common  classes.  Special  atten- 
tion is  given  to  the  training  and  subduing  of  wild 
horses,  as  well  as  to  overcoming  whims  and  vicious 
habits,  which  often  render  a  horse  useless  and  some- 
times dangerous.  Many  appliances  for  accomplishing 
this  are  described. 

While  the  book  is  written  from  a  practical  point 
of  view,  the  writer  has  in  mind  filling  a  need  met  in 
the  classroom,  where,  owing  to  lack  of  time,  it  is  not 
possible  to  consider  details  sufficiently  to  enable  the 
student  to  take  up  the  practical  work  of  training  horses 
To  facilitate  this  part  of  the  work,  and  to  avoid  repeti- 
tion, free  use  is  made  of  cross  references. 

Recognizing  the  incompleteness  of  such  a  work,  the 
writer  will  be  glad  to  correspond  with  those  into  whose 
hands  this  book  may  fall  concerning  difficulties  in  the 
training  of  horses,  and  also  to  receive  suggestions  that 
will  aid  in  perfecting  the  horse's  education. 

M.   W.   HARPER. 
Ithaca,  New  York, 
January  29,  1912. 


CONTENTS 


CHAPTER  I 

The  Horse  and  his  Master       .... 

The  Horse  and  his  Intelligence 

Horses'  intelligence  often  overestimated    . 
The  horse  has  a  good  memory   . 
Training  by  Means  of  the  Special  Senses 

The  sense  of  feeling  requires  patient  training 
Train  the  sight  to  objects  of  fear 
Do  not  confuse  the  horse  through  the  hearing 
Sense  of  smell  also  used  in  training  . 
Sense  of  taste  indirectly  used  in  training  . 
The  Objects  of  Horse  Training 
Methods  of  Horse  Training       .... 
Selecting  a  method     .         .         .         .         • 
Rapid  methods  vs.  slow  methods 
Rapid  methods  permanently  effective 

Safety  in  Horse  Training 

Make  the  Horse  understand  and  respond  to  Orders  an 
Signals     ....... 

Exact  implicit  obedience  from  the  horse  . 
Reward  and  Punishment  in  Training  Horses  . 

The  use  of  the  whip 

Requirements  in  the  Trainer     .... 

Personal  influence  of  the  trainer 
General  Considerations  in  Horse  Training 

vii 


PAGES 

1-25 
2 
3 
4 

7 
8 
9 
9 

10 
10 
11 
11 
12 
12 
13 
14 

15 
16 
17 
19 
20 
21 
22 


Vlll 


Contents 


CHAPTER  II 

Training  the  Foal 

Age  to  begin  Training  the  Foal 
Catching  and  Handling  the  Foal 

Catch  a  foal  around  both  ends  . 

Foals  are  naturally  very  timid   . 

Secure  the  foal's  confidence  while  young 

Avoid  confusing  the  foal    . 

Make  first  lessons  short  and  simple    . 

Teach  the  young  foals  useful  things  only 
Teaching  the  Foal  to  Lead 

Choose  a  strong,  well-fitting  halter    . 

The  loin-hitch     ..... 
Teaching  the  Foal  to  Back 
Driving  the  Foal  with  Lines 

Teach  the  foal  "  whoa,"  "get  up,"  and  "  back" 
Value  of  Early  Training 


PAGES 

26-43 

27 
28 
29 
30 
31 
32 
33 
33 
34 
35 
37 
38 
40 
40 
42 


CHAPTER  III 


Training  the  Work  Horse 

Age  to  train  Horses  for  Work   . 
Train  the  Horse  within  an  In  closure 
Examine  the  Horse  before  Training 
Handle  the  Horse  before  Traininec    . 
Training  the  Horse  to  Lead 

The  tail-hitch      .... 

The  quarters-hitch 
Teach  the  Horse  to  follow  when  Loose 
Training  to  the  Uses  of  the  Bit 

Importance  of  a  good  mouth 

Bitting  the  horse 

The  bitting-harness     . 
Driving  the  Horse  with  Lines   . 


44-107 

46 
48 
49 
50 
51 
52 
53 
54 
56 
.  57 
57 
60 
63 


Contents 


IX 


Teaching  the  command  "  whoa  "   '     . 

Teaching  the  command  "  get  up  " 

Teaching  the  command  "back  " 
Harnessing,  Hitching  and  Driving  the  Horse 

Poling  the  horse  .... 

Harnessing  the  horse 

Hitching  single  ..... 

Training-cart       .         .         . 

Familiarize  the  horse  with  the  vehicle 

Teaching  the  command  "  steady  " 

Backing  the  vehicle    .... 

Train  the  horse  to  come  under  the  shafts 

Caressing  with  the  whip     . 

Hitching  double  .... 

Training  the  Horse  to  Objects  of  Fear 

"  Family-broke "  .         . 

Pony  for  children        .... 
Train  the  Horse  to  walk  Fast    . 
Train  the  Horse  for  Heavy  Draft 
Training  Horses  to  make  Leaders     . 

Teaching  the  commands  "haw,"  "gee  "  and 
Choosing  a  Vocabulary  for  the  Work  Horse 
Gentling  the  Feet  for  Shoeing  . 
Training  to  Mount 


'ea 


PAGES 

65 
67 
67 
68 
69 
72 
74 
74 
77 
80 
80 
82 
83 
84 
85 
90 
91 
91 
93 
97 
97 
99 
101 
106 


CHAPTER  IV 

Training  the  Trotter,  Coacher  and  Roadster  .      108-149 

Age  to  begin  Training       .......  109 

Method  of  Training  while  Young 110 

The  training  yard        .......  Ill 

Plan  for  training  the  young  colt         ....  112 

Exercising  on  small  track  ......  113 

Do  not  tire  the  colt     .         .         .         .         .         .         .115 

Early  Training  in  Harness 118 


Contents 


Study  individual  peculiarities    . 
Training  the  Two-  and  Three-year-old 
Daily  Program  for  a  Horse  in  Training 
Training  for  the  Race 

Preparing  for  the  race 
Driving  .... 
Improving  the  Action 

Bitting  to  improve  action 

Shoeing  to  improve  action 

Conditioning  to  improve  action 
Injurious  Results  of  Fanlty  Action  . 

Over-reaching,  forging  and  clicking 

Interfering,  striking,  cutting  and  brushing 
Exercise  contributes  to  Action 


PAGES 

121 
123 
125 
127 
129 
129 
132 
134 
139 
142 
143 
143 
145 
147 


CHAPTER  V 

Training  the  Saddle  Horse 

Equipment  for  Training  a  Saddle  Horse 

The  riding  bridle 

The  saddle  .... 

Whip  and  spurs  . 
Mounting  Horse  for  First  Time 
Gaits  of  the  Saddle  Horse  Described 

The  walk    . 

The  trot 

The  canter  . 

The  rack     . 

The  running  walk 

The  fox  trot 

The  slow  pace 

The  jump    . 
Classes  of  Saddle  Horses 
Training  to  the  Gaits 

The  walk    . 


150-185 

151 
151 
151 
154 
155 
158 
159 
160 
160 
163 
164 
165 
165 
166 
167 
168 
168 


Contents 


XI 


The  trot      .... 

The  canter  .... 

The  running  walk 

Fox  trot      .... 

The  slow  pace     . 

The  rack      .... 

The  jump    .         .         .         • 

Training  to  stand 
Trainino^  Horses  for  the  Army  . 

The  cavah-y  horse 

The  scouting  horse     . 

Picketing     .... 
Training  Saddle  Horses  for  Special 

Polo  game  .... 

High-school  gaits 

Circus  tricks 


Work 


PAGES 

170 

171 

172 

173 

173 

173 

174 

176 

177 

178 

178 

179 

179 

179 

181 

183 


CHAPTER   VI 

Training  Wild  and  Subduing  Vicious  Horses 
Temperament  in  the  Horse 
Training  and  Subduing  Appliances 

Rope  halter 

Yankee  bridle 

Yankee  bridle  modified 

War  bridle  . 

War  bridle  modified  . 

Excelsior  bridle  . 

Pulley  bridle 

Pulley  bridle  modified 

Hackamore  bridle 

Cavesson  halter  . 

Lip-twitch   . 

Noose-twitch 


186-245 

187 
188 
189 
189 
190 
191 
192 
193 
193 
195 
196 
196 
197 
197 


XII 


Contents 


PAGES 

Halter-twitch 198 

Headstall-twitch 

199 

Bridle-twitch 

200 

Rearing-twitch    . 

200 

Wooden -gag 

200 

The  guy  rope 

201 

Combination  bridle    . 

201 

Kicking  strap 

202 

Kicking  reins 

202 

Kicking  harness 

204 

Self-punishing  harness 

204 

Hobbles 

206 

Rarey's  leg-strap 

207 

Rarey's  safety  harness 

208 

Rarey's  throwing  harness 

212 

Rope  throwing    . 

.     216 

Galvayne's  training  harnes 

s 

219 

Shackles 

.     221 

Straight-jacket    . 

221 

Training  the  Wild  or  Stubborn 

Hor 

se 

.     223 

Catching  a  wild  horse 

223 

Haltering  a  loose  horse 

227 

Gentling  the  wild  horse 

.     229 

Teaching  the  wild  horse  to  lead 

.     231 

Teaching  the  wild  horse  the  uses  of  the  bit  and  tc 

drive  with  lines 

.     233 

Teaching  the  wild  horse  to  drive  in  harness 

.     234 

Training  the  wild  horse  to  unfamiliar  objects  anc 

I 

to  noise    ........ 

.     237 

Subduing  the  Vicious  Horse 

• 

• 

»                • 

.     241 

CHAPTER  VII 

Outdoor  Vices  and  Whims 246-285 

Outdoor  Vices,  their  Cause  and  how  to  overcome  Them      249 
Balking 249 


Contents 


Xlll 


Jibbing 
Kicking 
Shying 

Running  away    . 
Running  back     . 
Difficult  to  back . 
Rearing  and  plunging 
Breaking  and  prancing 
Switching  tail     . 
Tail  over  line 
Halter-pulling     . 
Unsteady  under  whip  and  spur 
Difficult  to  mount 
Buck-jumping     . 
Rearing 

Jumping  fences  . 
Outdoor  Whims,  their  Cause  and  how  to 
Tongue-lolling    . 
Striking  lips 
Grasping  bit 
Gnashing  teeth  . 
Tossing  and  shaking  the  head 
Lugging      . 
Boring 

Crowding  and  pulling  away 
Stripping  bridle  . 
Refusing  to  stand  over 
Troublesome  to  catch 


overcome 


PAGES 

.  252 

.  254 

.  257 

.  260 

.  262 

.  263 

.  264 

.  265 

.  265 

.  268 

.  269 

.  273 

.  274 

.  276 

.  276 

.  277 

Them  278 

.  278 

.  279 

.  279 

.  280 

.  280 

.  281 

.  281 

.  282 

.  283 

.  284 

.  285 


CHAPTER  VIII 

Stable  Vices  and  Whois 286-316 

Stable  Vices,  their  Cause  and  How  to  Overcome  Them  286 
Refusing  admission  into  stall  .  .  •  •  '  •  286 
Difficult  to  groom        .         .         .         •        •         •         •     288 


XIV 


Contents 


PAGES 


Difficult  to  harness 

290 

Difficult  to  bridle 

291 

Difficult  to  crupper 

292 

Biting 

292 

Striking 

294 

Kicking  in  stable         .         .         .       "  . 

295 

Hanging  back  in  stall          .... 

297 

Difficult  to  lead  into  a  doorway 

298 

Cribbing 

299 

Wind-sucking 

300 

Difficult  to  shoe 

300 

Stable  Whims,  their  Cause  and  How  to  overcome  "^ 

Chem 

306 

Rolling 

306 

Tearing  blankets 

307 

Stripping  the  halter 

308 

Pawing  with  the  forefeet 

309 

Rubbing  the  tail 

310 

Rubbing  harness 

311 

Lying  down  cow-fashion 

311 

Lying  down  in  harness 

312 

Chewing  tie-strap 

312 

Eating  the  bedding 

312 

Resting  one  hind  foot  upon  the  other 

313 

Sleeping  standing 

313 

Trotting  in  stable 

314 

Weaving 

314 

Switching  tail  in  stable       .... 

314 

Gorging  grain 

315 

Difficult  to  drench 

315 

CHAPTER  IX 

HARNIiSSING    THE    COLT 

.     317 

-348 

The  Bit  and  the  Bridle 

>                 • 

318 

The  bit 

• 

318 

Head-stall 

t                 • 

325 

Blinds 

»                 • 

325 

Contents 


XV 


PAGES 

Centerpieces,  earbobs,  tassels  and  brass  fixtures        .     326 

The  check-rein    . 

•                 • 

327 

The  Lines 

329 

Multiple  hitch     .         .  '      . 

330 

The  Collar  and  Sweat-pads 

.     331 

Sweat-pads  .... 

335 

Breast  harness    . 

335 

The  hame-tug"     . 

.     336 

The  Crupper  and  Back-straps    . 

.     336 

The  Saddle  and  Back-bands 

337 

The  Breeching  and  Hold-backs 

338 

Choosing  Harness 

343 

Caring  for  Harness    . 

344 

Fly-nets  and  Fly-blankets 

.     347 

CHAPTER 

X 

Care  of  Colt  in  Training 

.     349-375 

Exercise  and  Development 

.     350 

Feeding  and  Development 

.     352 

Grooming  and  Development 

.     357 

Clipping  and  blanketing     . 

.     361 

Care  of  the  colt's  feet 

.     363 

Care  of  the  colt's  teeth 

.     365 

Accidents  Likely  to  occur  in  Training 

.     366 

Bruised  knee 

.     367 

Broken  knee 

.     367 

Bruised  fetlock  . 

.     368 

Calking       .... 

.     369 

Puncture  of  the  foot  and  frog 

.     369 

Wounds  and  stabs 

.     370 

Sprains        .... 

.     372 

Wind-galls,    wind-puffs,     blood-spavin,     1 

30g-S 

pavin 

and  thorough-pin    . 

•                 •                 « 

.     373 

Capped  hocks 

•                 •                 « 

.     373 

Harness  galls 

•                •                 • 

.     373 

Chafed  legs 

• 

•                 • 

• 

375 

LIST  OF   ILLUSTRATIONS 


Hackney-colt,  showing  high  knee  and  hock  action  . 
Catching  foal  the  first  time      ..... 
The  loin-hitch  used  in  teaching  foal  to  lead    . 
Teaching  the  foal  to  back         ..... 
Teaching  the  foal  to  drive  with  lines 
The  tail-hitch,  used  in  teaching  the  young  horse  to  lead 
The   quarters-hitch,    used   in  teaching   the   young   hor 

The  bitting-harness  for  teaching  the  uses  of  the  bit 
Running  side  reins,  useful  in  bitting  the  horse 
Teaching  the  horse  to  drive  with  lines    . 
Poling  the  head  and  nose  ..... 

Poling  the  body  and  legs  ...... 

The  young  horse  becoming  familiar  with  the  harness 
Driving  in  harness  previous  to  hitching  to  a  vehicle 
Acquainting  the  horse  wdth  the  training  cart 
Acquainting  him  with  the  top  buggy 
Hitched  for  the  first  time,  kicking  straps  attached 
Teaching  to  back  with  the  lines 
Teaching  the  horse  to  back  a  vehicle 
Young  horses  hitched  double  for  the  first  time 
Familiarizing  the  young  horse  with  strange  objects 
First  position  in  picking  up  a  front  foot 
Second  position  in  picking  up  a  front  foot 
First  position  in  picking  up  a  rear  foot  . 
Second  position  in  picking  up  a  rear  foot 
Third  position  in  picking  up  a  rear  foot . 

xvii 


se  to 


PAGE 

5 
29 
37 
39 
41 
53 

54 

61 

63 

64 

70 

71 

73 

75 

75 

77 

78 

81 

82 

85 

88 

101 

102 

103 

104 

105 


XVlll 


List  of  Illustrations 


Boots  for  protecting  the  feet  and  legs 

One  type  of  toe  weight     .... 

Hackney  coach  team  of  proper  conformation 

Coacli  horse  properly  bitted  to  favor  action 

Improving  action  with  curb-bit 

Types  of  saddles 

Types  of  saddle-stirrups 

Types  of  spurs  . 

The  walk  . 

The  trot    . 

The  canter 

The  rack  . 

The  running  walk     . 

The  fox  trot 

The  jump . 

Rope  halter 

Yankee  bridle   . 

Yankee  bridle  modified 

War  bridle 

War  bridle  modified 

Excelsior  bridle 

Pulley  bridle     . 

Pulley  bridle  with  three  rings 

Pulley  bridle  modified 

Hackamore  bridle 

Noose-twitch     . 

Halter-twitch    . 

Headstall-twitch 

Guy  rope   . 

Combination  bridle 

Self-punishing  harness 

Hobbles    . 

Rarey's  single  safety 

Rarey's  double  safety  with  guy  rope 

Rarey's  single  safety  restraining  one  foreleg 


PAGE 

114 

122 

135 

137 

138 

152 

153 

154 

159 

161 

162 

163 

164 

165 

166 

190 

191 

191 

192 

192 

193 

193 

194 

195 

196 

197 

198 

199 

201 

203 

205 

207 

208 

209 

210 


List  of  Illustrations 


XIX 


Rarey's  double  safety  restraining  the  forelegs 
Rarey's  double  safety,  horse  on  knees 
Rarey's  throwing  harness 
Rarey's  throwing  harness,  first  position  . 
Rarey's  throwing  harness,  second  position 
Rarey's  throwing  harness,  third  position 
Rope  throwing  harness     .... 
Rope  and  ring  throwing  harness 
Method  of  securing  rope  to  tail 
The  Galvayne  appliance  in  use 
The  straight-jacket   ..... 
Snaring  a  loose  horse        .... 
Gentling  a  loose  horse       .... 
Haltering  a  loose  horse,  first  position 
Haltering  a  loose  horse,  second  position  . 
Arrangement  of  double  safety  when  hitched 
Familiarizing  wild  horse  with  objects 
Crupper  anti-switching  appliance     . 
Hip-strap  anti-switching  appliance  . 
Loin-hitch  to  overcome  halter  pulling 
Tail-hitch  to  overcome  halter  pulling 
Galvayne  tail-rope  on  horse  difficult  to  mount 
Noose-twitch  on  horse  difficult  to  groom 
Appliances  to  prevent  cribbing 
Gentling  front  foot  with  rope  . 
Gentling  front  foot  with  leg-strap    . 
First  position  in  gentling  hind  foot 
Second  position  in  gentling  hind  foot 
Third  position  in  gentling  hind  foot 
Neck-cradle       .... 
Muzzle  to  prevent  tearing  blanket 
Appliances  to  prevent  pawing  . 

XjXL'o     o  •  •  •  •  • 

Beery  bit  ..... 
Patent  collars  .... 


PAGE 

211 

212 

213 

214 

215 

216 

217 

219 

220 

221 

222 

224 

226 

228 

229 

235 

238 

267 

268 

270 

273 

275 

289 

300 

301 

302 

304 

305 

305 

308 

308 

309 

320 

323 

332 


XX 


List  of  Illustrations 


Leather  collars 

An  inexpensive  but  neat  driving  harness 
Light  work  harness  .         .         .         .         . 
Heavy  work  harness          .         . 
Tools  for  grooming 


PAGE 

333 
340 
341 
342 
359 


THE   TRAINING   AND   BREAKING 

OF   HORSES 


THE  TRAINING  AND  BREAKING 

OF  HORSES 

CHAPTER  I 
THE  HORSE  AND  HIS  MASTER 

In  common  usage,  the  term  ^ draining  a  horse" 
imphes  educating  him  for  some  special  work,  while 
the  expression  '^breaking  a  horse"  signifies  preparing 
him  for  common  everyday  work  and  overcoming 
whims,  faults  and  vices.  This  usage  of  the  word 
'^ breaking"  is  very  unfortunate.  Only  too  often 
the  average  horse  is  simply  broken  in  spirit  and  obeys 
or  more  accurately  does  not  resist  his  master  because 
he  is  worked  down  and  worn  out  and  does  not  have 
the  energy  to  refuse.  This  is  the  kind  of  horse  that 
frequently  surprises  his  master  by  rearing,  kicking, 
running  away  and  the  like  when  permitted  to  regain 
his  former  condition.  A  horse  well  educated  to 
perform  the  more  common  work  of  his  life  requires 
careful  training.  This  is  particularly  true  at  the 
present  time  when  there  are  so  many  self-driven 
vehicles  on  the  highways. 

In  this  book,  therefore,  the  term  "  training  "  is  em- 
ployed to  signify  the  educating  of  the  horse  both  for 
common  everyday  work  and  for  special  work,  as  it 


2  The  Horse  and  his  Master 

conveys  the  proper  meaning,  the  object  being  to  train 
the  horse  so  as  to  increase  his  efficiency,  and  not  to 
break  the  high  and  superb  spirit  that  makes  him  the 
most  desirable  of  all  animals. 

The  usefulness  and  value  of  a  horse  depend  on 
his  training  and  on  his  being  readily  subservient  to 
his  master's  will.  With  few  exceptions,  such  as  in 
high-acting  coach  work,  fast  work  on  the  race-track, 
saddle  work  and  the  like,  training  the  horse  for  his 
life-work  is  not  difficult.  Yet  much  of  the  mean- 
ness and  viciousness  existing  among  horses  is  due  to 
improper  training,  poor  management  and  injudicious 
care.  The  trainer  and  the  driver,  though  innocent 
of  the  fact,  are  at  fault  more  often  perhaps  than  the 
horse.  To  avoid  this  deplorable  state  of  affairs,  a 
careful  study  of  the  horse  and  his  surroundings  should 
be  made  in  order  that  the  animal  may  be  trained, 
managed  and  cared  for  in  a  way  to  enable  him  to 
develop  his  greatest  usefulness. 

THE    HORSE    AND    HIS   INTELLIGENCE 

In  horse  training,  the  two  most  important  factors 
to  be  considered  are  the  horse  and  his  master.  Of 
these,  the  master  —  his  nervous  disposition,  temper, 
and  personal  habits  —  is  of  vital  importance.  While 
knowledge  of  the  methods  employed  in  training  is 
not  difficult  to  obtain,  the  successful  application  calls 
for  certain  qualities  in  the  master.     The  lack  of  such 


The  Intelligence  of  the  Horse  3 

qualities  accounts  for  many  of  the  bad  habits  exist- 
ing among  horses.  With  a  httle  patience,  however, 
most  horse  owners  can  acquire  both  the  knowledge 
and  qualities  of  temper  necessary  to  train  a  horse 
to  do  his  work  very  satisfactorily. 

In  order  to  be  efficient  in  horse  training  we  must 
know  something  of  the  mental  capabilities  of  the 
horse.  We  should  make  therefore  a  careful  study  of 
the  animal  in  order  to  determine  what  he  can  under- 
stand. It  must  be  apparent  if  the  horse  does  not 
understand  what  is  wanted  of  him,  if  he  does  not 
comprehend  the  meaning  of  the  commands  and  sig- 
nals, he  cannot  be  taught  to  obey,  but  will  be  much 
confused,  and  hence  all  attempts  to  train  him  will 
fail.  First,  then,  make  a  careful  study  of  the  horse's 
intelligence. 

Horse^s  intelligence  often  overestimated.  —  The  horse 
is  often  accorded  man's  most  faithful  servant,  and 
because  of  this,  no  doubt,  his  intelligence  is  often 
greatly  overestimated.  The  horse  cannot  reason. 
He  lacks  the  ability  of  acquiring  knowledge  by  draw- 
ing conclusions.  This  being  true,  he  can  be  taught 
only  by  the  association  of  ideas.  As,  for  example,  a 
touch  of  the  whip  on  the  hindquarter  will  imply,  at 
first,  to  go  forward,  but  by  giving  the  command 
^^get  up"  just  before  the  horse  is  struck  with  the 
whip  he  soon  learns  to  go  at  the  command.  This 
should  be  repeated  until  the  habit  becomes  fixed, 
when  the  whip  may  be  discarded.     As  the  horse 


4  The  Horse  and  his  Master 

forms  habits  without  difficulty,  much  care  should 
be  exercised  in  establishing  only  desirable  ones.  If 
a  desirable  act  is  repeated,  a  good  habit  is  formed, 
whereas  if  the  act  is  undesirable,  the  habit  is  bad. 
To  the  horse,  however,  the  habit  is  neither  good  nor 
bad,  but  only  his  method  of  responding  to  treatment 
or  suggestion. 

When  a  habit  is  induced  generation  after  genera- 
tion, it  has  a  tendency  to  be  transmitted  from  parent 
to  offspring.  There  are  many  examples  of  this  among 
horses,  such  as  the  saddle  gaits  among  saddle-bred 
horses  and  high  action  among  Hackney  coach  horses. 
It  is  a  comparatively  easy  matter  to  teach  a  saddle- 
bred  horse  the  various  saddle  gaits,  whereas  it  would 
be  practically  impossible  to  teach  such  gaits  to  a 
trotting-bred  horse.  Hackney  coach  horses,  having 
been  bred  for  action  for  many  generations,  often 
possess  much  high  knee  and  hock  action  from  colt- 
hood  (Fig.  1). 

The  horse  has  a  good  memory.  —  A  habit  when  fully 
established  implies  the  use  of  the  memory ;  that  is, 
the  horse  must  remember  that  certain  commands  or 
signals  call  for  certain  acts.  The  horse  has  such  a 
good  memory  that  what  he  fully  understands  he  sel- 
dom forgets.  The  vividness  with  which  events  are 
retained  depends  on  the  intensity  of  the  impression 
and  on  repetition,  or  both.  Intensity  of  impression 
is  more  serviceable  than  repetition  in  fixing  ideas  in 
the  horse's  mind.     Painful  lessons  are  long  remem- 


The  Intelligence  of  the  Horse 


5 


bered.  It  is  this  principle  that  is  involved  in  the 
short,  rather  severe  methods  of  training.  Repetition, 
however,  is  extremely  useful  in  all  horse  training  and 
is  absolutely  essential  when  training  for  special  work, 
as  racers,  coachers,  saddlers  and  the  like. 


Fig.  1.  —  Hackney  colt,  showing  high  knee  and  hock  action. 

In  training  the  horse  there  are  three  factors  in- 
fluencing the  rapidity  with  which  events  may  be 
memorized  and  thus  with  which  habits  are  formed. 
First,  with  mature  horses  the  power  of  memorizing 
or  making  new  associations  decreases  with  increasing 
age.     Therefore  we   should   begin  with  young  ani- 


6  The  Horse  and  his  Master 

mals.  Second,  fatigue,  either  mental  or  physical, 
impairs  the  memory ;  hence  we  should  not  continue 
the  work  so  long  as  to  tire  out  the  animal  in  mind 
or  muscle.  Third,  the  greater  the  number  of  ideas 
associated  with  the  same  event  the  weaker  each  be- 
comes. Thus,  each  response  should  be  developed  by 
a  different  event.  That  is,  to  teach  a  horse  to  stop, 
have  him  do  so  at  the  command  'Vhoa"  ;  in  teach- 
ing him  to  back,  have  him  do  so  at  the  command 
''back"  ;  and  never  give  the  command  ''whoa-back" 
when  we  wish  him  to  stop,  or  when  we  wish  him  to 
back,  as  this  confuses  the  animal. 

In  training  the  horse's  memory,  there  are  two  other 
factors  that  must  be  kept  constantly  in  mind. 
First,  there  seems  to  be  but  slight  connection  be- 
tween the  two  sides  of  the  horse's  brain.  A  horse 
may  be  very  famihar  with  an  object  from  one  side 
but  when  such  object  is  viewed  from  the  other  side 
he  may  become  frightened  and  much  confused.  To 
avoid  this  confusion,  train  him  to  objects  first  from 
the  ''near"  or  left  side,  and  when  thoroughly  famihar 
with  them  on  this  side  repeat  the  process  on  the 
"off"  or  right  side.  Second,  the  horse,  in  his  nat- 
ural state,  lives  in  droves  or  herds  and  is  never  found 
alone.  Because  of  this  tendency  to  flock  together 
it  is  easier  to  drive  a  number  of  wild  horses  than  a 
single  wild  animal.  The  domestic  horse  has  not 
lost  this  characteristic  habit.  In  view  of  this,  the 
horse's  memory  can  be  more  efficiently  trained  when 


Memory.     The  Special  Senses  7 

worked  alone.  If  worked  with  another  horse,  the 
colt  has  a  natural  tendency  to  imitate  rather  than  to 
learn,  and  thus  relies  on  the  other  horse  and  not  on 
his  own  memory.  Further,  it  is  not  possible  to 
train  a  horse  while  angry,  sick  or  otherwise  out  of 
condition,  as  he  does  not  memorize  under  such  cir- 
cumstances. 

It  is  interesting  to  note  that  the  mule  possesses 
greater  intelligence,  in  some  things  at  least,  than  the 
horse.  A  very  good  example  of  this  is  the  case  of 
kicking  animals.  If  a  kicking  horse,  when  in  har- 
ness, gets  his  leg  over  the  trace,  he  continues  to  kick 
until  free,  even  though  the  legs  are  injured  in  the 
process.  On  the  other  hand,  if  the  mule  becomes 
thus  entangled,  he  will  remain  perfectly  quiet  and 
allow  himself  to  be  released.  The  mule  seems  to  be 
sufficiently  intelligent  to  recognize  the  folly  of  need- 
lessly hurting  himself,  which  is  not  true  of  the  horse 
when  he  becomes  confused  or  excited. 

TRAINING   BY   MEANS    OF   THE    SPECIAL   SENSES 

Like  man,  the  horse  receives  his  training  and  edu- 
cation through  the  special  organs  of  feeling,  seeing, 
hearing,  smelling  and  tasting.  It  is  by  these  special 
senses  that  the  horse  acquires  a  knowledge  of  what 
is  expected  of  him,  and  no  system  of  training  can  be 
successful  that  fails  to  take  into  account  the  impres- 
sions that  the  animal  receives  by  these  means. 


8  The  Horse  and  his  Master 

The  sense  of  feeling  requires  patient  training.  — 
In  the  beginning  the  horse  must  be  accustomed  to 
handhng  by  his  master.  The  horse  should  permit 
every  part  of  the  body  to  be  rubbed,  but  care  should 
be  exercised  in  touching  the  back  of  the  front  legs, 
the  belly  and  the  front  of  the  hind  legs,  as  these  parts 
are  very  sensitive.  Early  in  life  he  learns  that  pres- 
sure apphed  at  the  halter  indicates  that  he  should 
move  forward,  and  later  he  learns  that  a  backward 
pressure  on  the  bit  indicates  to  move  backward. 
The  horse  familiarizes  himself  with  external  objects 
by  the  touch,  particularly  with  the  nose. 

Often  horses  show  much  alarm  at  strange  objects 
in  familiar  places,  such  as  an  empty  bag  lying  in  the 
paddock  or  a  hat  by  the  roadside.  The  horse  will 
usually  walk  a  few  steps  toward  the  object  and  then 
circle  round  and  round  it,  gradually  reducing  the 
circle,  getting  nearer  and  nearer,  until  finally  he  puts 
his  nose  on  the  object.  He  does  this  to  touch  the 
object,  and  not  primarily  to  smell  it.  After  thus 
touching  the  object  the  horse's  alarm  disappears. 
This  is  simply  the  animal's  method  of  getting  ac- 
quainted with  the  strange  object.  Because  of  this 
the  horse  should  be  permitted  to  feel  strange  objects, 
such  as  the  harness,  the  shafts  and  the  like,  in  order 
that  he  may  become  familiar  with  them.  If  this 
precaution  is  taken  before  the  harness  is  placed  on 
the  horse's  back  or  before  being  hitched  into  the 
shafts,  much  needless  confusion  may  be  avoided. 


Training  hy  Means  of  the  Special  Senses        9 

Train  the  sight  to  objects  of  fear.  —  While  the  sense 
of  sight  is  of  great  importance  in  training  horses,  it 
is  second  to  that  of  feehng.  The  horse  must  be 
taught  to  recognize  his  master  and  to  allow  him  to 
approach  from  either  side  without  resentment. 
With  respect  to  sight,  there  are  two  factors  that  must 
be  kept  in  mind.  First,  train  the  horse  to  watch 
where  he  is  going  so  that  he  will  not  stumble  over 
objects  in  his  path.  Second,  train  the  sight  so  that  he 
will  not  fear  objects  likely  to  make  him  start  with 
terror,  such  as  robes,  umbrellas,  cars  and  the  like. 
The  horse  has  a  great  aversion  to  robes  and  it  is  of 
importance  that  he  be  taught,  very  early  in  his  life, 
that  such  objects  are  harmless,  and  thus  avoid  much 
confusion  later.  The  horse's  range  of  vision  is  much 
more  limited  than  that  of  man.  While  there  is 
much  discussion  as  to  the  advisability  of  using  blinds 
in  training,  yet  it  seems  very  unwise  still  further  to 
restrict  the  sight  of  the  animal.  This  is  especially 
true  while  he  is  being  trained,  as  it  is  the  business  of 
the  master  to  famiharize  the  animal  with  all  objects 
he  is  likely  to  see  later  in  life.  Because  of  the  great 
importance  of  having  the  horse  view  objects  from 
either  side  and  at  all  angles,  the  training  should  be 
accomplished  with  an  open  bridle. 

Do  not  confuse  the  horse  through  the  hearing.  — • 
The  sense  of  hearing  is  often  called  into  use  in  train- 
ing horses.  While  the  horse  hears  readily,  it  must 
be  borne  in  mind  that  too  many  commands  only  serve 


10  The  Horse  and  his  Master 

to  confuse  him.  Further,  one  command  should  never 
be  given  for  two  acts.  It  is  a  very  common  thing  to 
hear  a  driver  use  the  term  ^^back"  when  he  wishes 
the  animal  to  stop  and  to  give  the  same  command 
when  he  wishes  the  horse  to  move  backward.  Give 
few  commands  and  have  each  stand  for  a  certain  act. 
Do  not  shout  at  the  horse,  as  this  only  serves  to  con- 
fuse him.  Speak  gently  but  firmly,  and  if  properly 
trained,  he  will  obey. 

Sense  of  smell  also  used  in  training.  —  Because  the 
sense  of  smell  is  not  used  in  the  same  manner  as 
feeling,  seeing  and  hearing  it  is  often  neglected  al- 
together. In  horse  training,  the  sense  of  smell  can 
be  made  useful,  as  is  suggested  by  the  readiness  with 
which  the  young  horse  will  take  a  bit  and  permit  him- 
self to  be  bridled  with  a  bit  and  bridle  formerly  worn 
by  an  animal  with  which  the  young  horse  is  familiar. 
In  view  of  this  it  is  well,  when  convenient,  to  use  har- 
ness previously  worn  by  an  animal  of  the  horse's 
acquaintance.     (See  Fig.  13.) 

Sense  of  taste  indirectly  used  in  training.  —  In  re- 
warding the  young  horse  for  obeying  our  commands, 
the  sense  of  taste  is  useful.  Thus,  if  convenient, 
when  the  horse  obeys  he  should  be  rewarded  by  a 
bite  of  grass,  a  carrot  or  a  lump  of  sugar.  It  is  a 
rather  common  practice  to  use  a  measure  of  grain 
or  an  ear  of  corn  to  catch  a  horse  out  at  pasture. 
While  this  is  a  reward  only  for  an  act  completed,  it 
often  serves  to  fix  the  idea  in  the  horse's  mind. 


Objects  and  Methods  of  Training  11 

THE    OBJECTS    OF   HORSE    TRAINING 

There  are  four  principal  objects  sought  in  training 
a  horse:  First,  to  render  him  quiet  both  in  and  out 
of  the  stable ;  second,  to  teach  him  to  obey  the  sig- 
nals and  orders  of  his  master  with  promptness  and 
precision ;  third,  to  create  and  establish  in  the 
animal  the  habit  of  applying  his  powers  to  the  best 
advantage;  and  fourth,  to  correct  any  fault,  whim  or 
vice  that  detracts  from  his  usefulness. 

It  is  the  business  of  the  trainer  to  guide  the  horse 
in  such  a  way  as  to  make  it  difficult  for  him  to  do 
wrong  and  exceedingly  easy  to  do  right.  Since  the 
horse  cannot  reason,  he  naturally  does  those  things 
that  are  easiest  to  accomplish.  If  these  acts  are 
bad,  we  say  the  horse  has  bad  habits,  and  if  good, 
we  say  he  has  good  habits;  whereas,  with  the  horse, 
such  acts  are  simply  his  way  of  responding  to  certain 
events.  Hence  we  should  be  ever  on  the  alert  to 
prevent  the  bad  acts  by  making  them  very  difficult 
for  the  horse  to  accomplish. 

METHODS    OF   HORSE    TRAINING 

As  horses  are  exceedingly  variable  in  temper  and 
intelligence,  to  be  successful  we  must  take  account 
of  this  fact.  We  should  be  in  possession  of  va- 
rious methods  for  enforcing  our  commands.  This 
is  particularly  true  of  semi-wild  horses,  or  of  horses 
with  a  tendency  to  develop  certain  whims,  faults  or 


12  The  Horse  and  his  Master 

vice,  since  the  removal  of  the  cause  of  such  ailments 
is  the  best  treatment.  The  more  resourceful  the 
trainer  and  the  greater  the  number  of  methods  he 
has  at  his  command,  the  more  successful  will  be  his 
work. 

Selecting  a  method.  —  The  method  to  select  in 
training  a  horse  is  the  one  that  will  give  the  desired 
results  and  establish  the  proper  habits.  To  deter- 
mine this  we  must  make  a  careful  study  of  the  ani- 
mal. Note  the  temper,  the  disposition,  the  general 
action  ;  in  fact,  nothing  is  too  insignificant  to  be  con- 
sidered in  this  preliminary  study  of  the  animal  whose 
habits,  either  for  good  or  bad,  are  soon  to  be  estab- 
lished. In  the  process  of  developing  a  horse  it  may 
be  necessary  to  employ  many  methods.  This  is 
particularly  true  in  training  for  the  more  exacting 
work,  as  fast  trotting  or  pacing,  high  acting  coach 
work,  saddle  work,  and  the  like. 

Rapid  methods  vs.  slow  methods.  —  The  methods 
of  training  may  be  divided,  in  a  general  way,  into 
two  classes  :  the  rapid  method  and  the  slow  method. 
In  America,  the  rapid  method  is  usually  employed, 
whereas  in  the  Old  World  the  slow  method  predomi- 
nates. A  study  of  these  methods  reveals  the  fact 
that  the  rapid  mode  relies  on  intensity  of  impres- 
sion in  fixing  ideas  in  the  horse's  mind,  while  the  slow 
method  depends  on  repetition  to  fix  the  ideas. 

The  most  common  rapid  methods  are  the  '^Rarey 
method  "  (p.  208)  and  the  ^ '  Gal vayne  method  "  (p.  2 19) , 


Methods  of  Horse  Training  13 

taking  their  names  from  the  men  who  first  introduced 
them  into  practice.  In  either  method  the  object 
is  to  impress  the  horse  that  we  are  superior  and  that 
he  must  do  as  commanded.  Both  methods  are  very 
simple.  Rarey  used  harness  for  laying  the  horse 
down  (Fig.  66),  while  Galvayne  tied  the  animal's  head 
to  his  tail  in  such  a  way  that  he  was  compelled  to 
go  round  and  round  until  stupefied  (Fig.  71).  Both 
methods  have  been  extensively  used,  particularly 
on  semi-wild  horses  and  on  animals  that  have  been 
spoiled  or  have  contracted  some  whim,  fault  or  vice. 
While  either  method  is  fairly  efficient,  one  must  not 
make  the  mistake  of  thinking  it  to  be  infallible. 
This  is  an  error  frequently  made  by  the  professional 
^^ horse  trainer.''  At  best  bad  habits  are  often  diffi- 
cult to  overcome,  and  when  the  horse  gets  back  into 
his  former  condition  the  old  tricks  also  are  likely  to 
return.  This  is  especially  true  of  horses  that  have 
been  spoiled  by  bad  tempered  and  irritable  men  who 
have  not  the  patience  to  handle  a  horse.  Horses 
thus  spoiled  may  be  cured  by  changing  drivers. 

Rapid  methods  permanently  effective.  —  Some  per- 
sons have  objected  to  the  rapid  method  of  training  on 
the  ground  that  because  it  takes  only  one  tenth  of 
the  time  of  the  slow  method,  it  is  not  so  permanent 
in  its  effect.  Such  is  not  the  case.  As  has  been 
pointed  out,  there  are  two  ways  of  fixing  events  in 
the  horse's  mind ;  one  is  by  intensity  of  impression, 
the  other  by  repetition,  of  which  the  former  is  the  mor^ 


14  The  Horse  and  his  Master 

effective.  In  fact,  without  intensity,  repetition  has 
but  little  effect  in  fixing  an  impression  on  the  mind. 

In  order  to  insure  permanency  of  effect  in  training 
a  horse,  one  must  first  establish  the  habit  of  obedi- 
ence. Many  fail  because  they  do  not  understand 
how  to  enforce  obedience,  while  many  others  fail 
because  they  do  not  repeat  the  act  until  it  becomes 
fixed  in  the  horse's  mind.  First  make  the  horse 
obey,  then  repeat  the  process  as  may  be  needed. 
Do  not  rely  upon  fixing  an  event  in  the  horse's  mind 
by  having  him  do  the  act  but  once  or  twice.  No 
matter  how  strong  the  act  was  impressed,  in  the  ma- 
jority of  cases  it  will  soon  wear  off  unless  repeated. 
Therefore  continue  the  act  until  the  habit  is  formed  ; 
then  it  is  likely  to  remain  permanently. 

It  is  important  to  note  that  no  matter  how  well 
a  horse  may  have  been  cured  of  a  bad  habit,  he  is 
likely  to  acquire  it  again  if  subjected  to  the  same 
treatment  or  management  that  caused  it  in  the  first 
place.  The  owner  of  such  a  horse,  therefore,  will 
do  well  to  change  him  about  after  training  to  over- 
come the  bad  habit,  which  in  connection  with  judi- 
cious management  is  very  likely  to  prove  permanent 
in  its  effect. 


SAFETY   IN   HORSE    TRAINING 

In  training  horses,  the  methods  adopted  should  be 
free  from  physical   danger  to  the  horse  as  well  as 


Safety  in  Horse  Training  15 

the  man.  The  habihty  of  injuring  the  animal  is 
one  objection  to  some  of  the  rapid  methods.  Among 
horses  that  are  very  headstrong  and  unmindful  of  the 
signals,  it  is  safer  to  risk  the  horse  than  ourselves. 
Thus  in  the  case  of  horses  that  are  very  self-asserting 
it  is  best  to  use  methods  that  afford  ample  protec- 
tion, even  though  they  are  rather  severe  on  the 
animal. 

The  slow,  Old  World  methods  are,  §is  a  rule,  much 
more  likely  to  result  in  injury  to  the  trainer  than 
some  of  the  rapid  American  methods.  Thus  in 
some  of  the  slow  methods  the  trainer  goes  boldly  up 
to  the  horse,  to  impress  upon  him  that  he  is  not 
afraid.  Such  methods  are  never  to  be  advised,  as 
the  risk  is  too  great.  We  should  never  give  the  ani- 
mal a  chance  to  do  that  which  is  likely  to  result  in 
injury  to  ourselves  or  to  any  one  else.  If  the  trainer 
is  exceedingly  careful  and  painstaking,  and,  as  pre- 
viously suggested,  makes  it  difficult  for  the  horse 
to  do  that  which  he  should  not  and  easy  to  do  that 
which  he  should,  there  is  very  little  risk  in  horse 
training. 

MAKE     THE     HORSE     UNDERSTAND     AND    RESPOND    TO 

ORDERS   AND    SIGNALS 

Since  the  horse  cannot  understand  our  spoken 
language,  we  must  establish  certain  signals  and  com- 
mands that  will  render  him  capable  of  knowing  our 


16  The  Horse  and  his  Master 

wishes.  These  should  be  very  simple,  and  of  such 
a  nature  as  to  be  understood  easily  by  the  horse. 
From  this  it  follows  that  in  training  horses  one 
should  not  talk  to  the  animals ;  this  only  confuses 
them.  Give  few  signals  and  give  them  as  clearly 
and  uniformly  as  possible.  Do  not  complicate  them 
with  other  influences,  such  as  the  presence  of  other 
horses,  or  undue  excitement  and  the  like.  Fear  and 
anger  also  detract  from  the  horse's  understanding,  and 
he  should  not  be  handled  roughly  when  thus  excited. 

Even  with  the  simplest  of  signals,  much  patience  is 
often  required  to  get  the  horse  to  comprehend  what 
is  wanted.  The  moment  he  understands  and  com- 
pletes the  act  desired,  quiet  him  and  repeat  until 
the  idea  becomes  fixed.  If  the  horse  does  not  un- 
derstand and  we  continue  to  force  signals  upon  him, 
as  a  rule  he  will  become  stubborn,  impatient  and 
perhaps  violent.  The  thing  to  do,  therefore,  is  to 
make  the  signals  very  simple,  so  simple  that  he  can- 
not do  other  than  as  commanded,  and  when  he  does 
understand  and  completes  the  act,  to  repeat  until 
the  habit  is  formed. 

Exact  implicit  obedience  from  the  horse.  —  From 
the  beginning  the  horse  must  be  taught  that  he  can- 
not resist  us.  This  is  very  important  in  the  training 
of  a  horse,  as  he  takes  no  interest  in^-obeying.  The 
safety  of  the  trainer  as  well  as  the  usefulness  of  the 
horse  requires  that  he  yield  himself  completely  to 
the  guidance  of  his  master.     This  implicit  obedience 


Necessity  of  Obedience  17 

must  be  exacted  even  though  it  is  not  in  keeping 
with  the  horse's  natural  instincts.  The  method  of 
trying  to  induce  obedience  by  petting  and  humoring 
is  not  often  practical.  Such  methods  often  result  in 
the  establishment  of  undesirable  whims. 

Until  he  does  his  work  well,  the  less  petting  he 
gets  the  better  animal  he  will  make.  This  does  not 
mean  to  punish  resisting  animals  with  a  whip,  —  far 
from  it,  as  such  punishment  will  only  make  matters 
worse  and  is  certain  to  result  in  the  establishment  of 
vicious  habits.  It  does  mean,  however,  to  be  firni 
with  the  horse.  Do  not  attempt  too  much  at  one 
time,  but  go  through  with  whatever  is  begun.  Give 
him  to  understand  that  you  are  his  master  and  your 
will  must  be  done.  There  are  many  ways  of  ac- 
complishing this,  as  stated  later  in  the  text. 

REWARD    AND    PUNISHMENT    IN    TRAINING    HORSES 

Since  the  horse  can  acquire  knowledge  only  by 
the  association  of  ideas,  it  is  necessary  to  establish 
methods  whereby  he  may  know  when  he  has  done 
as  he  should ;  also  that  he  may  know  when  he  has 
not  acted  in  accordance  with  our  wishes.  Thus  when 
the  animal  obeys,  he  should  be  rewarded,  and  when 
he  refuses  to  obey,  he  should  be  punished. 

Reward  for  obedience  may  be  administered  in 
many  ways,  such  as  by  the  voice,  by  patting,  by  giv- 
ing dainty  food,  by  resting,  and  the  like.     The  use  of 


18  The  Ho/se  and  his  Master 

the  voice  as  a  means  of  rewarding  animals  for  obedi- 
ence is  very  efficient.  The  horse  readily  under- 
stands the  meaning  of  a  soft  tone,  and  is  likely  to 
take  a  harsh  tone  for  a  rebuke.  Patting  and  strok- 
ing the  horse  with  the  hand,  particularly  in  the  re- 
gion of  the  mane  and  along  the  neck  and  shoulders, 
affords  a  very  expressive  means  of  rewarding  him 
for  obedience.  Giving  a  handful  of  hay,  or  better 
still  of  green  grass,  a  carrot  or  a  lump  of  sugar,  often 
has  the  desired  effect  of  associating  the  command  or 
given  signal  with  the  event  desired.  Resting  or 
ceasing  the  discipline  is  also  a  very  efficient  means  of 
gaining  the  good  will  of  the  horse,  and  ma}^  be  used 
to  advantage  in  the  management  of  the  reins. 

Punishing  the  horse  for  disobedience  is  much 
more  difficult  than  rewarding  the  animal  for  obedi- 
ence. There  are  many  ways  of  rebuking  a  diso- 
bedient animal,  the  most  common  being  the  voice 
and  the  whip.  The  horse  will  take  a  harsh  tone  for 
a  rebuke  in  much  the  same  manner  that  he  takes  a 
soft  tone  for  a  caress.  The  words  used,  however, 
should  be  few,  distinct  and  significant.  No  matter 
what  form  of  punishment  is  used,  we  must  remember 
that  the  benefit  to  be  derived  is  to  induce  the  horse 
mentally  to  associate  with  it  the  particular  event 
that  we  wish  to  convey.  From  this  it  follows  that 
we  are  justified  in  inflicting  pain  only  as  a  means  of 
educating  the  animal,  and  never  as  a  penalty  for 
doing  wrong. 


Reward  and  Punishment  in  Training  Horses     19 

The  use  of  the  whip.  —  While  the  whip  is  very  use- 
ful in  training  and  in  the  subsequent  management 
of  the  horse,  there  is  perhaps  no  one  thing  in  con- 
nection with  horse  training  so  often  misapplied  as 
the  whip.  This  is  due,  in  part  at  least,  to  the  ease 
with  which  it  can  be  applied  and  to  the  fact  that  it 
is  used  for  two  very  different  purposes :  First  to  in- 
duce the  animal  to  go  forward,  and  second  as  a  warn- 
ing that  he  should  not  behave  in  an  undesirable 
manner.  This  is  oftentimes  confusing,  and  the  mat- 
ter is  still  further  complicated  when  the  horse  is  pun- 
ished as  a  penalty  for  wrong-doing.  To  avoid  this 
confusion  we  should  give  the  uses  of  the  whip  much 
consideration. 

The  whip  should  always  be  applied  at  the  rear 
end  of  the  horse  when  used  to  encourage  him  to  go 
forward.  The  use  of  the  whip  should  always  be 
preceded  by  a  command,  as  ^^get  up."  Never  strike 
the  horse  before  giving  the  command.  To  be  most 
efficient  the  lick  should  succeed  the  word  so  close 
that  the  horse  cannot  help  feeling  that  when  the 
command  is  given  the  whip  is  to  follow  at  once.  To 
avoid  the  pain  of  the  whip  the  horse  soon  learns  to 
start  forward  at  the  command  alone,  when  the  whip 
should  be  put  aside. 

The  whip  should  always  be  applied  along  the  side 
of  the  horse,  when  used  as  a  warning.  One  rather 
sharp  cut,  depending  on  the  individual,  is  usually 
sufficient  to  bring  a  horse  to  his  senses.     Never  whip 


20  The  Horse  and  his  Master 

a  horse  past  an  object  that  is  causing  him  fright. 
Since  he  can  think  of  but  one  thing  at  a  time  and 
since  he  learns  by  association  of  ideas,  he  may  as- 
sociate the  pain  with  the  object  or  he  thinks  the 
object  is  causing  the  pain.  In  horse  training,  a 
free  use  of  the  whip  will  break  the  spirit  of  high- 
couraged  animals  and  increase  the  sulkiness  of 
stubborn  ones.  One  sharp  cut,  or  at  most  a  few, 
immediately  following  the  command  ^'take  care," 
is  sufficient  punishment  to  warn  him  against  wrong- 
doing. 

The  horse  should  never  be  punished  by  striking 
with  the  whip  and  jerking  on  the  lines  at  the  same 
time.  This  punishing  the  animal  at  both  ends  serves 
to  confuse  him,  and  if  he  possesses  a  high  spirit  some 
desperate  act  is  likely  to  follow.  To  avoid  such  con- 
fusion, administer  punishment  at  but  one  end  at  a 
time. 

REQUIREMENTS    IN   THE    TRAINER 

The  most  important  essential  in  the  trainer  is 
that  he  either  possess  or  acquire  complete  control 
over  himself  and  his  temper.  Without  complete 
control  over  himself  it  is  not  possible  for  him  to  at- 
tain the  ability  to  control  a  horse.  Horse  training 
is  partly  an  art  and  partly  a  science.  To  execute 
the  work  efficiently  requires  much  patience.  Horses 
vary  widely  both  mentally  and  physically.  Some 
are  quick  and  docile,  while  others  are  stupid  and 


Personal  Requirements  in  the  Trainer  21 

stubborn.  If  their  lack  of  understanding  or  willful 
disobedience  causes  their  trainer  to  lose  his  temper, 
he  will  frighten  the  timid  ones  out  of  their  senses  and 
provoke  the  stubborn  ones  to  resistance  and  perhaps 
to  retaliation.  Thus  a  quick-tempered  or  irritable 
trainer  is  quite  likely  to  develop  a  bad-tempered 
horse,  while  the  trainer  with  an  uncontrollable  tem- 
per is  equally  as  likely  to  develop  a  really  vicious 
and  dangerous  horse.  To  be  most  successful  in 
training  horses,  one  should  possess  an  even  temper, 
much  patience,  readiness  of  resources,  sympathy, 
skill  and  pluck,  all  of  which  can  be  attained  and  de- 
veloped, in  part  at  least,  by  thoughtful  study  and 
much  practice. 

Personal  influence  of  the  trainer.  —  In  practical 
horse  training  the  influence  of  the  trainer  is  often 
significant.  It  often  happens  that  the  animal  is 
completely  taken  up  by  the  one  in  charge.  When 
the  trainer  is  the  onlv  one  to  work  the  horse  sub- 
sequently,  the  possession  of  such  personal  influence 
over  the  animal  is  often  of  much  advantage.  On 
the  other  hand,  if  the  trainer  is  only  to  educate  the 
animal,  then  such  influence  may  be  a  positive  hin- 
drance. The  horse  may  be  perfectly  safe  while 
under  the  influence  of  the  trainer,  but  become  re- 
fractory or  even  resent  interference  from  any  one 
else.  It  is  the  work  of  the  trainer  to  render  the 
horse  perfectly  obedient  to  the  commands  of  his 
master.     No  horse  can  be  said   to   be   thoroughly 


22  The  Horse  and  his  Master 

trained  until  he  can  be  managed  under  all  circum- 
stances by  an}^  one  familiar  with  horses. 

GENERAL    CONSIDERATIONS    IN    HORSE    TRAINING 

Having  considered  the  horse's  low  degree  of  in- 
teUigence  and  the  fact  that  he  can  neither  reason  nor 
draw  conclusions  and  must  learn  therefore  by  as- 
sociation of  ideas;  that  he  possesses  an  excellent 
memory  which  can  be  easily  trained ;  that  the  only 
means  of  communicating  information  to  him  is  by 
the  special  senses,  particularly  those  of  feehng,  see- 
ing and  hearing ;  and  having  considered  the  objects 
of  training,  as  well  as  the  more  important  methods, 
we  may  now  note  some  of  the  more  important  under- 
lying principles  in  the  practice  of  horse  training. 

The  earlier  in  life  the  training  begins  the  more 
useful  animal  he  will  make.  The  young  horse  has 
fewer  ideas  of  his  own  and  is  more  willing  to  accept 
the  direction  of  a  superior  intelligence  than  the  older 
animal.  It  is  therefore  of  advantage  to  begin  the 
training  in  early  colthood  when  at  all  convenient. 

In  training,  we  endeavor  to  increase  the  horse's 
serviceability  by  rendering  him  readily  subservient 
to  our  will.  In  doing  this  we  exaggerate  the  horse's 
idea  of  those  of  his  powers  which  are  useful  and  at 
the  same  time  deceive  him  as  to  those  attributes 
which  if  realized  might  impair  his  usefulness.  Thus 
the  first  time  a  draft  horse  is  hitched  to  a  load  much 


General  Statements  about  Training  23 

care  should  be  exercised  not  to  overload  him,  with  a 
view  of  developing  in  him  the  idea  that  he  can  pull 
anything  that  has  both  ends  loose.  On  the  other 
hand,  the  first  time  he  is  tied  up  by  the  head,  equally 
as  much  care  should  be  taken  to  see  that  the  halter 
is  strong  enough  to  hold  him  in  case  he  pulls.  If 
the  horse  pulls  and  fails  to  free  himself  at  the  first  few 
attempts,  he  is  not  likely  to  try  it  again,  and  a  string 
would  probably  serve  as  well  as  a  chain  to  keep  him 
in  place  thereafter.  If,  however,  he  succeeds  in  free- 
ing himself  at  the  first  attempt,  he  will  never  cease 
trying  to  repeat  it  until  put  through  a  system  of 
training  to  cure  the  habit  of  pulling  back. 

In  developing  the  spirit  of  obedience,  we  should 
not  work  the  horse  too  long  at  a  time.  If  the  ani- 
mal is  fatigued,  his  powers  of  learning  are  decreased, 
and  if  the  training  is  continued,  he  becomes  con- 
fused. Fifteen  minutes  to  one  half  hour  is  sufficient 
for  a  young  horse.  Five  to  ten  half -hour  lessons 
given  in  systematic  order  will  accomplish  more  in 
preparing  the  horse  to  stand  severe  tests  than  two 
years  of  haphazard  training. 

Since  horses  differ  in  temper  and  disposition,  we 
are  obliged  to  use  various  methods  in  rendering 
them  obedient.  No  set  of  rules  can  be  laid  down 
that  will  apply  in  all  cases.  While  such  methods 
as  were  employed  by  Galvayne  and  Rarey  are  very 
effective  in  subduing  semi-wild  horses,  neither  of 
them  will  cure  many  whims,  faults  or  vices  to  which 


24  The  Horse  and  his  Master 

horses  are  subject.  We  should  make  a  careful  study 
of  the  horse  and  adopt  that  method  which  will  prove 
most  efficient  with  the  animal  in  hand. 

Whatever  system  of  training  is  employed,  to  be 
successful  we  must  exact  implicit  obedience  from 
the  horse  at  all  times.  Be  gentle  yet  firm,  and  go 
through  with  whatever  is  attempted.  If  at  any  time, 
however,  the  horse  cannot  be  induced  to  do  exactly 
what  is  required,  make  him  do  something  else.  Enforce 
obedience  of  some  kind  at  the  time  to  prevent  him 
from  conceiving  the  idea  that  he  can  dispute  his 
master.  If  at  all  possible,  however,  do  not  rest  until 
he  does  that  which  was  asked  of  him. 

We  should  devote  our  entire  attention  to  the  horse 
in  hand  and  should  strive  to  obtain  and  keep  his 
attention  that  he  may  get  an  idea  of  what  is  expected 
of  him.  As  soon  as  he  understands  what  is  wanted, 
repeat  in  the  same  manner  until  the  lesson  is  fixed 
in  his  mind.  Do  not  hurry  from  one  lesson  to  an- 
other, and  do  not  try  to  teach  too  many  things  at 
one  time,  as  such  only  serves  to  confuse  the  horse. 

In  training  the  stubborn,  refractory  and  wild 
horse,  or  in  subduing  the  vicious  horse,  it  is  of  the 
utmost  importance  that  he  be  given  to  understand 
that  he  is  to  obey  or  suffer  accordingly.  From  the 
beginning  we  must  use  such  appliance  as  will  give 
us  the  advantage.  This  can  be  accomplished  in 
two  ways :  First  by  the  employment  of  such  appli- 
ance as  will  consume  the  animal's  strength,  and  by 


General  Consideration  in  Horse  Training       25 

the  use  of  self-punishing  harness,  which  will  inflict 
the  punishment  at  the  instant  he  violates  our  wish. 
As  soon  as  he  completes  the  act  desired,  whether  of 
his  own  will  or  because  forced  to  do  so,  he  should  be 
caressed  by  feeding  a  dainty,  as  this  serves  to  fix 
the  idea  in  his  mind. 


CHAPTER  II 
TRAINING   THE  FOAL 

The  foal  should  be  handled  and  taught  a  few  sim- 
ple lessons  while  young.  As  a  rule,  the  farmer  or 
horse  breeder  is  so  very  busy  at  the  time  the  foal  is 
born  that  the  youngster  is  neglected.  He  is  not  given 
an  opportunity  to  become  acquainted  with  his  master. 
Often  he  is  treated  as  an  outcast.  Because  he  gets 
in  the  way  or  does  that  which  he  should  not,  he  is 
punished.  Such  treatment  may  be  continued  until 
weaning  time,  when  the  youngster  is  turned  out  to 
rough  it  until  three  years  of  age.  At  this  age  he  is 
caught  up,  '^broken,"  and  put  to  work.  Soon  the 
owner  begins  to  wonder  why  his  horse  did  not  attain 
the  size  of  that  of  his  neighbor's ;  why  the  animal 
cannot  accomplish  the  work  he  should ;  why  he 
developed  such  whims  as  lolling  his  tongue,  stripping 
his  bridle,  tearing  his  blanket,  cribbing,  wind-sucking, 
and  the  like ;  and  such  vice  as  switching  the  tail, 
biting,  kicking,  balking,  running  away,  and  so  on, 
all  of  which  are  due  to  lack  of  training,  care  and 
management  while  young. 

26 


Importance  of  Early  Training  27 

AGE   TO   BEGIN   TRAINING   THE    FOAL 

As  it  is  much  easier  to  train  the  young  tree,  or 
to  mold  the  clay  before  it  sets,  so  it  is  much  easier 
to  train  the  foal  while  young,  as  he  has  fewer  ideas 
of  his  own  and  fewer  fixed  habits.  If  he  is  thrifty 
and  strong,  the  very  first  day  of  his  life  is  none 
too  soon  to  begin  training.  The  earlier  in  life  the 
training  begins  the  easier  the  task,  and  the  longer 
it  is  postponed  the  greater  are  the  chances  of  a 
hard  struggle.  We  can  show,  rather  than  force, 
him  to  do  that  which  he  does  not  understand. 
While  it  is  true,  no  doubt,  that  at  this  early  age 
the  animal's  power  of  memorizing  is  undeveloped, 
it  must  be  remembered  that  the  horse  learns  by 
association  of  ideas  only  and  beginning  at  so  early 
an  age  has  many  advantages  aside  from  training  the 
memory. 

Perhaps  the  most  important  advantage  gained 
by  early  training  is  that  the  youngster  becomes  ac- 
quainted with  his  master  at  a  time  when  man  is  the 
animal's  physical  superior.  This  is  significant.  As 
has  been  stated,  the  horse  obeys  commands  because 
he  feels  obliged  to  do  so,  and  not  because  he  likes  to 
accomplish  a  task.  It  is,  therefore,  of  advantage 
to  fix  the  idea  in  the  foal's  mind  that  he  is  our  mental 
and  physical  inferior  and  must  obey.  The  earlier 
he  comes  into  possession  of  this  idea  the  better  horse 
he  will  make.     On   the  other  hand,   horses  which 


28  Training  the  Foal 

have  roughed  it  from  birth  to  maturity,  having  come 
to  know  their  strength  and  having  their  instinct  of 
independence  strongly  developed,  are  proportion- 
ately more  difficult  to  teach  to  obey. 

CATCHING   AND    HANDLING    THE    FOAL 

It  is  of  much  importance  the  first  time  the  foal  is 
caught  that  he  be  held  in  such  a  manner  as  not  to 
cause  him  fright.  The  common  practice  is  to  catch 
the  youngster  around  the  neck,  which  usually 
frightens  him,  and  as  he  has  never  been  fast  before 
he  runs  backward  and  either  frees  himself  or  falls, 
with  the  result  that  he  is  more  difficult  to  approach 
the  next  time.  To  avoid  this,  the  trainer  should 
make  a  careful  study  of  the  factors  governing  the 
movements  of  the  animal.  For  example,  if  we  touch 
his  hindquarters,  he  moves  forward,  and  as  we  have 
just  seen,  if  we  touch  his  forequarters,  he  moves 
backward.  If  a  horse  gets  his  front  foot  over  an 
obstruction  of  any  kind  and  feels  the  pressure  on  the 
foot  or  leg,  he  goes  backward  until  he  frees  himself, 
even  though  he  seriously  injures  himself  in  doing  so, 
whereas  he  could  very  easily  step  over  the  obstruc- 
tion by  a  forward  movement.  If  the  hind  foot  is 
fast,  he  goes  forward  in  much  the  same  way.  Thus 
we  see  that  pressure  in  front  stimulates  a  backward 
movement,  while  pressure  behind  stimulates  a  for- 
ward movement.     This  is  a  very  important  obser- 


How  to  Catch  the  Foal 


29 


vation  and  should  always  be    kept  in  mind  when 
training  a  horse. 

Catch  a  foal  around  both  ends.  —  In  catching  the 
foal  for  the  first  time,  gently  place  one  arm  under  the 


Fig.  2.  —  Catching  foal  the  first  time. 

neck  and  the  other  under  the  hams  (Fig.  2).  If  he 
attempts  to  go  forward,  apply  pressure  at  the  neck, 
or  if  he  attempts  to  go  backward,  apply  the  pressure 
at  the  hams.  If  it  is  desired  to  have  him  step  for- 
ward, relieve  the  pressure  at  the  neck  and  apply  it  at 


30  Training  the  Foal 

the  hams,  or  if  it  is  desired  to  have  him  step  back- 
ward, reheve  the  pressure  at  the  hams  and  apply  it 
at  the  neck.  If  caught  in  this  manner,  he  will  soon 
become  quiet,  then  he  should  be  handled  all  over  the 
body  and  legs.  Extra  care  should  be  taken  when 
handling  the  ears,  the  back  of  the  forelegs,  the  flanks, 
and  the  front  of  the  hind  legs,  as  these  parts  are 
extremely  sensitive  to  the  touch.  This  requires 
only  a  few  minutes  and  the  foal,  in  all  probability, 
will  come  to  meet  you  the  next  time  you  enter  the 
stall  instead  of  fleeing  from  you,  as  he  will  if  you  at- 
tempt to  catch  him  by  the  neck  or  even  if  you  pay 
no  attention  to  him  the  first  time  you  enter  the  stall. 

Foals  are  naturally  very  timid.  —  Perhaps  the  treat- 
ment horses  have  received  since  their  domestica- 
tion, as  well  as  the  brutal  treatment  their  ancestors 
suffered  before  domestication,  has  had  much  to  do 
with  rendering  the  young  naturally  timid.  Foals  of 
the  lighter  breeds  are  more  nervous  and  timid  than 
those  of  the  draft  breeds,  and  require  more  effort  to 
gain  their  confidence.  If  the  animals  are  to  reach 
their  greatest  usefulness,  this  natural  timidity  must 
be  overcome  and  confidence  in  man  established. 
This  can  be  accomplished  by  kind,  firm  treatment. 
The  occasional  use  of  some  relished  morsel,  such  as 
a  lump  of  sugar,  will  be  of  material  benefit  in  over- 
coming timidity  and  in  establishing  confidence. 

No  sudden  movements  should  be  made  in  ap- 
proaching the  foal,  as  these  will  make  him  start  and 


Method  of  Catching  the  Foal  .31 

jump  away.  In  this  way,  he  will  soon  learn  that  he 
can  escape  being  caught.  To  avoid  this  we  should 
always  go  about  the  young  animal  in  a  very  quiet 
manner.  Never  make  a  quick  movement  in  catch- 
ing him,  as  this  will  serve  to  frighten  him  and  make 
him  more  difficult  to  catch  the  next  time.  Never 
attempt  to  catch  him  unless  sure  of  success,  for  if  he 
succeeds  in  getting  away,  it  is  not  at  all  likely  that  he 
will  forget  it  soon. 

Children  and  thoughtless  persons  often  try  to 
make  the  youngster  show  off  by  doing  something  to 
frighten  him,  as  throwing  sticks,  ^'shooing,"  running 
at  him  and  the  like.  This  should  never  be  done. 
Such  actions  serve  to  make  the  animal  more  difficult 
to  catch  and  handle,  and  in  fact  may  so  frighten  a 
highly  nervous  one-  as  to  cause  him  to  injure  himself 
in  an  attempt  to  get  away.  If  it  is  desired  to  see  the 
foal  in  action,  lead  the  mare  away  and  the  youngster 
will  follow,  when  his  action  may  be  noted. 

Secure  the  foaVs  confidence  while  young.  —  After 
catching  the  foal  and  handling  him  as  suggested,  it 
is  important  that  we  secure  his  complete  confidence 
before  he  is  set  free.  If  for  some  reason  the  young- 
ster should  make  his  escape  after  being  caught  and 
held  fast,  but  before  his  confidence  is  secured,  he 
will  be  very  difficult  to  catch  the  next  time.  In  view 
of  this  fact  much  care  must  be  taken  to  dispell  all 
fear.  Loving  kindness  is  an  important  factor  in 
securing  this  confidence.     Feeding  sweets  from  the 


32  Training  the  Foal 

palm  of  the  hand,  such  as  a  httle  granulated  sugar 
pressed  between  the  lips,  will  aid  materially  in  se- 
curing the  youngster's  confidence.  Sugar,  being 
sweeter  than  the  dam's  milk,  seems  to  give  him  the 
idea  that  we  are  his  friend,  and  instead  of  fleeing  as 
we  enter  the  stall  he  will  come  to  meet  us,  placing  as 
much  confidence  in  us  as  in  his  mother.  The  im- 
portance of  securing  the  colt's  confidence  at  this 
early  age  is  very  significant,  as  he  is  likely  to  retain 
the  pleasant  recollection  throughout  life. 

Avoid  confusing  the  foal.  —  In  handling  the  foal, 
we  should  go  about  the  work  coolly  and  with  con- 
fidence. We  should  be  careful  to  avoid  confusing  or 
exciting  him.  It  must  be  remembered  that  there  is 
little  connection  between  the  two  sides  of  the  ani- 
mal's brain,  and  he  may  be  perfectly  familiar  with 
us  from  one  side  and  yet  become  greatly  excited  if 
caught  from  the  other  side.  To  avoid  this  confusion, 
handle  the  foal  from  both  sides.  He  should  become 
familiar  with  strange  objects  from  every  quarter. 

In  training  the  youngster,  it  is  important  that  the 
first  lessons  be  of  such  a  nature  that  they  can  be  un- 
derstood very  easily  and  even  more  easily  accom- 
plished. The  foal  of  course  must  understand  what 
is  wanted  before  he  can  be  expected  to  accomplish 
the  task.  When  he  fully  understands  what  is  ex- 
pected of  him,  he  will  do  it  with  surprising  rapidity. 
Confusion  resulting  from  not  understanding  what 
is  wanted  often  so  excites  or  frightens  the  animal 


Care  in  Handling  the  Foal  33 

that  he  is  Hkely  to  do  anything,  even  to  fatally  in- 
juring himself  by  running  into  telephone  poles, 
gate  posts,  buildings  and  the  like.  Since  it  is  not 
possible  to  teach  an  excited  or  frightened  animal,  we 
must  first  of  all  make  it  clear  to  him  what  he  is  ex- 
pected to  do. 

Make  first  lessons  short  and  simple.  —  In  handling 
the  foal,  the  first  few  lessons  should  not  exceed  fifteen 
minutes  in  length,  as  this  is  sufficient  time  to  impress 
an  idea  on  his  mind.  These  early  lessons  should  be 
exceedingly  simple,  so  as  to  avoid  confusion.  Take 
up  one  thing  at  a  time,  and  be  sure  the  colt  fully  un- 
derstands what  is  wanted  and  how  to  do  it  before 
passing  to  another.  As  advancement  is  made,  teach 
the  lessons  in  the  most  useful  order  and  always  re- 
peat each  in  the  order  taught.  Soon  the  foal  can 
be  relied  upon  to  go  through  the  list  in  order  given 
without  a  break.  On  the  other  hand,  if  the  work  is 
given  in  a  haphazard  manner,  then  all  is  uncertain  as 
to  just  what  the  animal  can  be  depended  upon  to  ac- 
complish. If  the  work  is  continued  too  long  and 
the  colt  fatigued  either  mentally  or  physically,  his 
power  of  memorizing  is  weakened,  and  if  the  work  is 
complicated,  he  may  become  confused.  To  avoid 
this  make  the  work  short  and  simple,  particularly 
in  the  beginning. 

Teach  the  young  foal  useful  things  only.  —  As  a 
rule  the  foal  is  full  of  life,  bright  and  easily  taught, 
and  for  these  reasons  he  is  often  taught  mischievous 


34  Training  the  Foal 

tricks,  such  as  rearing,  kicking,  biting,  and  the  Hke. 
Since  he  is  hkely  to  remember,  throughout  hfe,  the 
impressions  made  on  his  mind  while  young,  it  goes 
without  saying  that  such  should  never  be  permitted. 
It  is  such  things  that  restrict  the  horse's  usefulness. 
Teach  the  young  animal  only  such  lessons  as  will 
be  useful  to  him  later  in  life.  As  stated,  he  should 
be  taught  to  be  handled  from  both  sides  and  at  every 
angle ;  teach  him  the  use  of  the  halter  so  that  hu 
will  follow  wherever  you  wish  him  to  go ;  the  mean- 
ing of  the  term  ^^whoa,"  that  is,  to  stop  and  stand 
quietly;  the  meaning  of  the  term  '^get  up,"  that  is, 
to  move  forward,  and  teach  him  the  meaning  of  the 
term  ^^back,"  that  is,  to  move  backward.  In  addi- 
tion, familiarize  the  youngster  with  objects  that  are 
likely  to  cause  him  fright,  show  him  that  such  objects 
will  not  hurt  him,  and  that  he  can  trust  himself  to 
your  care  with  perfect  assurance  that  he  will  be  pro- 
tected from  all  harm. 

TEACHING   THE    FOAL   TO    LEAD 

The  best  time  to  teach  the  foal  the  use  of  the  halter 
is  when  he  is  about  ten  days  or  two  weeks  old.  This 
is  a  very  important  matter,  as  it  is  the  first  time  the 
youngster  has  been  in  any  part  of  the  harness,  and 
he  should  be  given  to  understand  from  the  very  be- 
ginning that  such  will  not  hurt  him  and  that  he  must 
obey  the  signals  given  by  means  of  the  halter.     Many 


A  Cause  of  Halter-pulling  35 

animals  which  have  been  very  teachable  up  to  this 
time  are  often  spoiled  by  improper  methods  of  train- 
ing to  lead,  and  thus  the  first  impressions  they  re- 
ceive as  to  the  use  of  the  halter  are  bad.  In  this 
way  the  foundation  is  laid  for  a  confirmed  halter- 
puller,  a  vice  which  will  materially  lessen  the  future 
usefulness  of  the  animal  (p.  269).  This  comes  about 
because  we  are  not  mindful  of  the  natural  tendency 
of  the  horse  to  move  backward  when  pressure  is 
applied  at  the  front  and  to  move  forward  when  the 
rear  end  is  touched.  Without  thinking,  the  halter 
is  placed  on  his  head  and  we  begin  to  pull  on  the  strap. 
True  to  his  instincts  the  foal  goes  backward.  Occa- 
sionally the  face  and  neck  are  deformed  in  this  man- 
ner, as  the  harder  we  pull  the  harder  the  colt  pulls 
back.  It  is  not  necessary  to  drag  the  foal  by  the 
halter  in  order  to  suggest  to  him  that  his  business  is 
to  follow.  To  avoid  all  this  we  need  but  to  remem- 
ber the  animal's  natural  instinct  —  pressure  in  front 
implies  a  backward  movement,  whereas  pressure  be- 
hind implies  a  forward  movement. 

Choose  a  strong,  well  fitting  halter.  —  For  the  foal  a 
web  halter  is  preferable  to  a  leather  one,  as  it  is 
much  lighter  and  softer  and  not  so  likely  to  injure 
or  frighten  him.  Never  use  a  rope  halter  on  the 
young  foal.  An  old  halter  that  has  been  in  constant 
use  is  better,  all  things  considered,  than  one  that 
has  been  hanging  up  or  even  a  new  one  that  smells 
of  a  lot  of  things  that  are  strange  to  the  animal. 


36  Training  the  Foal 

It  is  very  important  to  have  the  halter  fit  the  head 
perfectly.  Because  the  foal's  head  grows  so  rapidly, 
colt  halters  are,  as  a  rule,  made  too  large  for  the  very 
young  animal  in  order  that  they  may  fit  later  on. 
The  head-stall,  brow-band,  throat-latch  and  nose- 
band should  be  taken  up  until  they  fit,  otherwise 
the  pressure  will  not  be  applied  properly,  the  cheek- 
straps  may  be  pulled  around  against  the  animal's 
eyes,  the  chin-band  slip  over  the  nose  and  the  like, 
all  of  which  must  be  avoided.  It  often  happens 
that  in  taking  up  the  halter,  long  straps  are  left  hang- 
ing about  the  head  to  annoy  the  foal.  These  should 
be  fastened  up  in  some  way.  It  is  often  rather  diffi- 
cult to  adjust  the  halter  to  a  nervous  foal's  head,  but 
to  be  successful  one  must  have  patience.  Do  not 
be  in  a  hurry,  but  let  the  youngster  get  acquainted 
with  everything  as  you  proceed.  With  the  halter 
properly  adjusted  coax  the  youngster  along  behind 
his  mother  or  some  accustomed  route,  as  to  the  water 
trough  and  back.  If  one  has  sweets  available,  such 
as  sugar,  and  permits  the  youngster  to  taste  of  them 
occasionally,  he  will  soon  follow  promptly.  If  he 
resents,  however,  other  means  must  be  tried.  Do 
not  stand  in  front  and  try  to  pull  his  head  ofT,  for  he 
will  only  roll  his  eyes,  shake  his  head  and  move  back; 
and  above  all  do  not  give  up.  We  must  now  take 
advantage  of  the  animal's  natural  instinct  and  apply 
pressure  at  the  rear  end  as  we  wish  him  to  move 
forward. 


Teaching  the  Foal  to  Lead 


37 


The  loin-hitch.  —  Secure  a  small  rope  or  sash-cord, 
about  ten  feet  long,  tie  a  loop  or  fasten  a  ring  in  one 
end,  gently  place  the  rope  over  the  foal's  back  just 
in  front  of  the  hips  with  the  loop  or  ring  on  the  under 


Fig.  3. — ;The  loin-hitch  used  in  teaching  foal  to  lead. 

side  of  the  body,  so  that  when  the  free  end  of  the  rope 
is  run  through  the  loop  the  rope  can  be  closely  drawn 
around  the  loins  and  flanks ;  pass  the  rope  along 
under  the  body  between  the  fore  legs,  and  then  up 
through  the  ring  on  the  halter  or  under  the  jaw 
strap  (Fig.  3). 


38  Training  the  Foal 

Take  the  halter  strap  in  one  hand,  the  loin-hitch 
rope  in  the  other,  and  stand  in  front  and  a  little  to  one 
side  of  the  foal.  Pull  gently  on  the  halter  strap  and 
as  he  begins  to  shake  his  head  give  the  loin-rope  a 
sharp  pull  and  he  will  immediately  move  forward. 
In  fact,  he  is  likely  to  move  forward  so  rapidly  that  he 
will  run  into  you  if  you  stand  squarely  in  front  of 
him.  Do  not  be  in  a  hurry,  but  give  the  animal 
time  to  get  used  to  the  lesson.  If  he  is  excited,  give 
him  sweets  or  caress  him  until  he  quiets  before 
attempting  to  give  the  loin-rope  a  second  pull. 
When  his  confidence  has  been  restored,  try  again, 
using  the  loin-rope  again  if  need  be.  Soon  he  will 
follow  wherever  you  lead.  All  of  this  requires  only 
five  to  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes,  whereas  by  the  old 
method  —  pulling  on  the  halter  alone  —  we  have 
little  or  no  assurance  when  the  foal  will  follow. 


TEACHING   THE    FOAL   TO    BACK 

As  soon  as  the  foal  fully  understands  the  use  of 
the  halter  and  will  follow  wherever  we  lead,  he  should 
be  taught  to  back.  Do  not  attempt  to  teach  him 
to  back  the  same  day  he  is  taught  to  lead,  but  put 
it  over  until  the  next  day.  Teaching  the  colt  to 
back  is  a  very  important  lesson,  as  it  adds  materially 
to  his  usefulness  in  later  life.  All  that  is  required  is 
pressure  in  front.  Take  the  halter  strap  in  one  hand 
so  as  to  guide  the  foal  in  a  straight  line  or  in  any 


How  to  Make  him  Back 


39 


desired  direction,  extend  the  fingers  of  the  other  hand 
between  the  points  of  the  shoulders  and  press  gently 
against  the  animal,  and  he  will  step  back  (Fig.  4). 


Fig.  4.  —  Teaching  the  foal  to  back. 

Reward  him  for  his  action  and  repeat  until  he  will 
move  backward  by  applying  the  pressure  at  the  hal- 
ter alone.  Never  force  the  animal  by  jerking  on  the 
halter  strap;  simply  apply  pressure  in  the  sensitive 
chest  cavity  with  the  ends  of  the  fingers.     In  fifteen 


40  Training  the  Foal 

minutes'  time,  in  addition  to  leading  wherever  de- 
sired, the  foal  should  be  willing  to  back  any  distance 
or  in  any  direction. 


DRIVING   THE    FOAL   WITH    LINES 

By  the  third  day  after  haltering,  if  all  has  gone 
well  and  the  colt  will  lead  and  back,  he  should  be 
driven  with  lines.  To  do  this  most  successfully, 
a  surcingle  properly  adjusted  is  required.  The 
surcingle  must  be  provided  with  a  loop  on  each  side, 
placed  well  below  the  center  of  the  body,  the  lines 
passed  through  the  loops  and  fastened  to  the  ring 
on  either  side  of  the  halter.  Never  use  a  bit  in  the 
mouth  of  a  very  young  animal.  Now  the  lines  will 
pass  the  hind  quarters  low  and  thus  prevent  the  foal 
from  turning  with  his  head  toward  us,  which  he  will 
do  occasionally  if  the  surcingle  is  not  used.  It  is 
very  important  to  keep  the  reins  low  in  turning  to 
make  the  guiding  process  easy.  At  first,  walk  close 
to  the  animal  so  as  to  encourage  him  to  go  forward 
by  occasionally  touching  the  rump  with  one  hand 
while  the  guiding  is  done  with  the  other.  As  sood 
as  he  becomes  accustomed  to  being  driven  he  may 
be  touched  up  with  the  lines,  guided  to  the  right  and 
left,  but  should .  be  stopped  often  to  assure  him  that 
he  is  doing  well  (Fig.  5). 

Teach  the  foal  "whoa,^^  ''get  up,'^  and  "back.^^  — 
Since  these  three  terms  are  to  be  used  so  very  much 


Driving  the  Foal 


41 


in  the  animars  later  life,  he  should  be  taught  their 
meaning  very  early.  For  best  results  these  terms 
should  be  taught  one  each  day,  beginning  the  next 
day  after  the  foal  has  been  driven  with  the  lines. 
After  driving  for  a  short  time  or  until  the  excitement 


Fig.  5.  —  Teaching  the  foal  to  drive  with  lines,  the  surcingle  removed. 

has  worn  off,  give  the  command  ^^whoa,"  following 
immediately  with  a  sudden  and  positive  pull  on  the 
lines  (p.  66).  Do  not  speak  loud,  but  rely  more  on 
the  pressure  applied  with  the  lines.  The  foal  should 
be  rewarded.  After  waiting  a  short  time  start  by 
applying  pressure  on  the  rump,  and  after  going  until 
all  is  right,  repeat  the  command  and  the  pull  as 
before.     As  soon  as  he  shows  indication  of  stopping 


42  Training  the  Foal 

at  the  command,  do  not  pull  on  the  lines.  When 
he  stops  at  the  command  alone,  reward  him. 

The  next  day,  after  driving  for  a  short  time  and 
stopping  at  the  command  ''whoa,"  the  foal  should 
be  taught  the  meaning  of  the  term  ''get  up."  To 
do  this,  start  the  animal  by  the  command  "get  up," 
followed  immediately  by  a  rather  sharp  tap  upon  the 
rump.  Tap  the  animal  according  to  what  he  will 
stand  and  not  so  as  to  frighten  him.  As  soon  as  he 
is  going  normally,  stop  by  the  command  "whoa"  and 
caress  him.  Repeat  the  process  until  he  will  start  at 
the  command  alone. 

The  following  day  teach  the  foal  the  meaning  of 
the  term  "back."  This  should  first  be  done  in  the 
way  already  suggested ;  that  is,  by  holding  the  hal- 
ter in  one  hand  and  applying  pressure  between  the 
shoulder  points  with  the  other,  at  the  same  time 
giving  the  command  "back."  Repeat  until  the 
youngster  will  move  back  at  the  command  alone. 
Now  you  are  ready  to  snap  on  the  lines  and  teach  him 
to  back  from  behind.  At  first  it  may  be  necessary 
to  pull  on  the  lines  following  the  command.  Repeat 
and  reward  him  until  he  will  back  at  the  command. 
By  the  third  day  the  foal  should  respond  to  all  three 
commands. 

VALUE    OF   EARLY   TRAINING 

The  time  required  to  carry  out  the  above  sugges- 
tions is  but  fifteen  minutes  for  six  consecutive  days, 


Begin  Training  Early  43 

or  ninety  minutes  in  all,  during  which  time  the 
youngster  has  been  taught  to  lead,  to  drive,  to  stop 
at  the  command  ''whoa,"  to  start  at  the  command 
''get  up"  and  to  back  on  command.  While  he  is 
not  yet  three  weeks  of  age  yet  he  will  obey  com- 
mands better  than  the  average  horse  will  ever  obey 
them.  The  value  of  training  begun  thus  early  cannot 
be  overestimated.  It  fixes  the  idea  of  subordination 
in  the  horse's  mind  at  a  time  in  life  when  no  subse- 
quent treatment  can  shake  it,  and  even  though  the 
time  consumed  in  such  training  is  quite  insignificant, 
it  adds  as  nothing  else  can  to  the  future  usefulness 
of  the  animal. 

There  are  two  objections  to  training  the  colt  while 
young.  First,  want  of  time  on  the  part  of  the  owner, 
and  second,  being  trained,  the  youngster  is  likely  to 
be  driven  or  put  to  hard  work  before  he  is  properly 
developed.  For  these  reasons  the  colt  is  usually 
permitted  to  enjoy  his  independence  until  such  time 
as  he  is  needed  for  work,  with  the  result  that  his 
general  usefulness  in  many  cases  is  much  impaired. 
A  horse  should  be  reasonably  mature  before  he  is 
called  upon  to  do  service,  but  any  time  spent  in  his 
education  prior  to  the  date  at  which  he  goes  to  work 
will  be  repaid  many  times  in  the  more  satisfactory 
service  that  he  will  render. 


CHAPTER  III 
TRAINING   THE   WORK  HORSE 

In  training  or  hitching  horses,  young  or  old,  there 
are  a  few  general  considerations  that  should  be  kept 
constantly  in  mind.  A  horse  should  never  be  trusted 
more  than  is  necessary.  Children,  women  or  in- 
competent men  should  never  be  left  in  charge  of  horses 
unless  the  animals  are  thoroughly  acquainted  with 
them.  Many  distressing  accidents  occur  from  trust- 
ing old  family  horses.  A  good  horseman  never  runs 
risks  when  they  can  be  avoided. 

In  handling  horses,  the  safest  way  is  for  the  attend- 
ant to  remain  close  to  the  animal's  left  shoulder, 
grasping  the  bridle  close  to  the  mouth  with  the  right 
hand.  In  this  position  the  horse  is  unable  to  injure 
him.  If  the  horse  becomes  fractious,  the  attendant 
should  stay  close  to  the  animal's  left  shoulder  or 
get  entirely  out  of  his  reach,  for  many  serious  acci- 
dents have  resulted  from  horses  rearing,  striking 
and  kicking  in  play,  when  being  led  by  an  attendant 
at  the  end  of  the  lead  strap.  Never  attempt  to  lead 
a  fractious  horse  with  a  halter  without  looping 
the  rope  or  tie-strap  and  slipping  it  into  his  mouth 
in  the  place  of  a  bit,  then  running  the  rope  or  tie- 

44 


Harnessing  and  Hitching  45 

strap  through  the  nose-band,  thus  forming  a  loop 
around  the  lower  jaw,  in  which  condition  the  horse 
can  be  easily  controlled  (p.  199). 

In  bridling,  harnessing  and  saddling  a  horse  the 
work  should  be  done  from  the  left  side.  The  har- 
ness should  be  gently  but  firmly  placed  upon  the 
animal.  The  harness  and  other  equipment  should 
be  of  good  quality  and  in  good  repair,  and  so 
adjusted  as  to  fit  the  animal  snugly.  In  hitching 
a  horse  into  a  pair  of  shafts,  the  shafts  always  should 
be  raised  and  the  animal  led  under  or  backed  into 
them,  or  the  vehicle  drawn  forward,  as  the  horse  is 
likely  to  step  on  a  shaft  and  break  it  if  backed  in 
while  they  are  on  the  ground.  In  hitching,  the 
lines  should  be  fastened  into  the  bit  and  then  placed 
where  they  can  be  reached  easily  before  attaching 
the  horse  to  the  vehicle.  In  unhitching,  the  lines 
should  be  the  last  disengaged,  and  care  should  be 
taken  that  the  animal  is  free  from  the  vehicle  before 
he  is  led  away.  Serious  accidents  often  result  from 
leading  the  horse  out  of  the  shafts  before  the  hold- 
backs are  unfastened. 

In  tying  to  a  post  or  hitching-rack,  the  horse 
should  be  secured  by  a  strong  rope  or  strap  placed 
around  his  neck,  then  passed  through  the  ring  of  the 
bit  and  on  to  the  post.  It  is  good  practice  to  obtain 
a  short  strap  about  six  inches  long,  provided  with  a 
loose  ring  and  a  snap  at  either  end  to  secure  in  the 
bit-ring  on  either  side  so  the  loose  ring  will  remain 


46  Training  the  Work  Horse 

under  the  lower  jaw.  Now  by  snapping  the  lead- 
rein  or  running  the  tie-strap  through  this  ring, 
pressure  is  brought  to  bear  equally  on  either  side  in 
case  the  horse  should  pull.  A  horse  should  always 
be  tied  short,  otherwise  he  may  get  his  foot  over  the 
tie-strap,  be  unable  to  disengage  it,  break  the  tie- 
strap  or  the  check -rein,  become  frightened  and  an 
accident  result. 


AGE    TO    TRAIN   HORSES    FOR   WORK 

At  the  present  time  there  is  much  discussion  as  to 
the  most  profitable  age  at  which  to  train  horses  for 
work.  Some  good  horsemen  state  that  they  prefer 
not  to  have  the  horse  worked  until  coming  four  years 
old,  while  others  think  a  more  useful  animal  will 
result  if  put  to  light  work  at  two  and  one  half  or 
three  years  of  age.  Each  of  these  methods  may 
prove  equally  successful,  depending  on  conditions. 
It  would  seem  that  these  ages  might  well  represent 
the  extremes.  As  a  rule,  the  horse  should  not  be  put 
to  work  under  two  and  one  half  years  of  age,  and  even 
then  the  work  should  be  light  and  the  working  hours 
short.  If  the  work  is  too  severe,  or  continued  for 
too  long  a  time,  the  animal  will  be  retarded  in  his 
growth  and  he  will  not  make  as  useful  a  horse  as  if 
the  training  had  been  delayed  a  few  months.  On  the 
other  hand,  if  the  horse  is  thrifty,  it  is  poor  economy 
to  keep  him  in  idleness  after  he  is  four  years  of  age. 


Training  Young  Horses  to  Work  47 

The  breed,  the  individuality  and  the  work  per- 
formed all  have  a  bearing  upon  the  age  to  begin 
training.  As  a  rule,  the  draft  breeds  mature  younger 
than  the  lighter  breeds,  and  therefore  may  be  put  to 
moderate  work  younger.  Some  individuals  develop 
more  rapidly  than  others,  and  as  they  mature  earlier 
they  may  be  put  to  work  younger.  The  work  per- 
formed likewise  has  a  bearing  on  the  age  of  training. 
Thus  in  the  case  of  the  draft  horse,  where  force 
applied  at  the  collar  is  required,  or  in  the  case  of  the 
saddle  horse,  where  the  weight  is  borne  upon  the 
horse's  back,  the  animal  should  be  reasonably 
mature.  On  the  other  hand,  when  the  horse  is 
intended  for  fast  work  on  the  race  track,  many  good 
horsemen  feel  that  the  training  cannot  begin  too 
soon;  thus  we  often  find  these  men  constructing 
miniature  tracks  around  which  the  animals  are  led 
or  driven  by  means  of  a  long  line  by  the  time  they 
are  weaned,  sometimes  before. 

The  breed  and  the  work  performed  exert  an  influ- 
ence on  the  amount  of  training  required.  As  a  rule, 
the  draft  breeds  are  much  more  easily  trained  than 
the  lighter  breeds.  There  are  two  reasons  for  this : 
First,  the  draft  breeds  are  larger,  quieter  and  neither 
so  active  nor  so  high-strung  as  the  lighter  types. 
They  are  much  more  easily  handled  and  not  so  likely 
to  go  wrong  as  the  lighter  types.  Second,  the  work 
that  draft  breeds  are  called  on  to  perform  does  not 
require  the  continuous  training  that  is  required  of 


48  Training  the  Work  Horse 

the  lighter  breeds ;  the  tasks  are  not  numerous  or 
difficult  to  learn,  whereas  the  saddle  or  coach  horse 
may  be  called  upon  to  do  a  number  of  tasks,  each  of 
which  is  hard  to  learn  and  requires  long  and  severe 
training. 

TRAIN    THE    HORSE    WITHIN   AN   INCLOSURE 

In  training  the  horse,  it  is  of  great  advantage  to 
provide  an  inclosure,  varying  in  size  according  to  the 
nature  of  the  training  or  the  temperament  of  the 
horse,  but  for  most  work  twenty-five  to  fifty  feet 
square  will  suffice.  All  obstructions  likely  to  injure 
or  attract  the  horse's  attention,  such  as  wagons, 
barrels,  posts,  bricks,  stones,  sticks  and  the  like, 
should  be  removed.  If  the  inclosure  is  within  a 
barn  or  under  a  shed,  the  ceiling  should  be  at  least 
twelve  feet  high.  No  matter  where  the  inclosure, 
the  floor  should  be  of  soft  earth.  Never  begin 
training  the  horse  on  cement,  brick  or  even  a  hard 
wood  floor.  Not  only  is  the  horse  likely  to  slip  and 
injure  himself  or  the  man  in  charge,  but  it  is  often 
found  necessary  to  lay  the  horse  down  to  convince 
him  that  we  are  his  master,  and  the  likelihood  of 
injury  is  great  if  this  is  attempted  on  a  hard  floor, 
particularly  cement  or  brick.  Within  such  an  inclos- 
ure it  is  much  easier  to  get  the  horse's  entire  atten- 
tion, and  should  anything  go  wrong  whereby  he 
should  free  himself,  he  will  be  unable  to  get  away. 


Training  Inclosures.     Examining  49 

Many  advise  turning  the  horse  loose  within  the 
inclosure  in  order  that  he  may  become  accustomed 
to  the  place  in  which  he  is  to  receive  his  early  training. 


EXAMINE    THE    HORSE    BEFORE    TRAINING 

The  horse  should  be  carefully  examined  to  see 
that  he  is  in  good  physical  condition  before  the 
training  begins.  In  order  to  be  effective  in  training, 
it  is  necessary  to  gain  the  horse's  confidence  and 
hold  his  attention.  This  is  not  possible  with  the 
animal  in  poor  physical  condition.  Note  the  teeth 
to  see  if  they  are  uneven  or  possess  sharp  edges, 
which  are  likely  to  injure  the  tongue  or  jaws.  Such 
edges  should  be  removed  with  a  guarded  rasp, 
otherwise  the  pain  will  detract  the  animal's  atten- 
tion from  the  lessons  we  are  trying  to  teach.  Note 
the  condition  of  the  feet,  and  if  they  are  out  of  pro- 
portion, level  them  with  the  rasp,  otherwise  the 
horse  will  be  irregular  in  his  action  and  may  injure 
himself  by  interfering.  Examine  the  horse  for 
impaired  vision  and  defective  hearing.  If  his  vision 
is  impaired,  he  may  run  into  objects,  or  seeing  them 
but  dimly  may  become  frightened  and  uncontrollable. 
If  his  hearing  is  defective,  he  is  at  the  disadvantage 
of  not  being  able  to  understand  spoken  commands. 
The  disadvantages  under  which  such  a  horse  labors 
are  great,  and  it  is  important  that  such  defects  be 
noted  in  order  that  we  may  not  ask  him  to  do  that 

E 


50  Training  the  Work  Horse 

which  is  impossible  for  him  to  accomplish.  If  we  pro- 
ceed with  such  a  horse  as  if  he  was  normal,  he  may 
become  confused,  frightened,  difficult  to  control  and 
may  endanger  his  own  life  as  well  as  that  of  his 
master. 


HANDLE  THE  HORSE  BEFORE  TRAINING 

In  many  cases  the  horse  breeder  will  not  feel  war- 
ranted in  taking  the  time  to  train  the  foal  as  sug- 
gested in  the  previous  chapter,  even  though  the  ani- 
mal's future  usefulness  is  materially  lessened  by 
such  neglect.  The  horse  may  be  given  his  freedom 
until  old  enough  to  work,  perhaps  never  being  taught 
the  use  of  the  halter.  Such  a  horse  should  first 
of  all  be  made  gentle,  so  that  he  will  permit  his  en- 
tire body  to  be  handled.  Some  untrained  horses  are 
so  quiet  that  they  will  readily  submit  to  any  amount 
of  handling,  whereas  others  offer  resistance,  even 
when  lightly  touched.  Familiarizing  some  horses 
to  the  touch  requires  much  patience.  Most  horses 
are  particularly  sensitive  about  the  ears,  the  under- 
line and  the  legs.  v 

It  is  a  common  practice  to  use  some  form  of  twitch 
to  attract  the  horse's  attention  while  handling  these 
sensitive  parts.  While  the  use  of  the  twitch  is 
recommended  in  training  vicious  or  spoiled  horses, 
it  should  be  used  on  the  untrained  horse  only  as  a 
last    resort.     Kind    treatment,    well-directed   effort 


Handling  previous  to  Training  51 

and  patience  are  preferred  to  the  use  of  the  twitch, 
and  will  overcome  most  horses.  In  case  the  horse 
is  very  sensitive  to  the  touch  and  it  is  not  safe  for 
one  to  get  near  to  caress  him  with  the  hand,  other 
means  must  be  devised.  The  English  use  a  so- 
called  '^  third  hand/'  which  is  a  stick  somewhat  simi- 
lar to  a  walking  stick  or  cane.  With  such  a  stick 
rub  the  horse  along  the  top  of  the  neck.  The  dan- 
druff collecting  about  the  base  of  the  mane  often  irri- 
tates the  part  so  that  it  itches,  and  the  horse  enjoys 
having  it  rubbed  or  scratched.  After  he  has  be- 
come familiar  with  the  stick  on  top  of  the  neck,  pass 
it  back,  touching  the  withers  lightly  or  not  at  all, 
and  rub  the  back,  the  sides,  the  rump  and  the  like. 
After  a  few  minutes'  work  with  the  stick,  the  horse 
learns  that  he  is  not  going  to  be  harmed  and  will 
permit  himself  to  be  rubbed  with  the  hand. 

The  horse  is  now  ready  for  the  halter.  Choose  a 
strong  leather  halter,  preferably  one  that  has  been  in 
constant  use,  place  it  on  the  animal's  head  and  tie 
securely  in  the  stall.  He  should  be  left  in  the  stall 
for  some  time  in  order  that  he  may  become  familiar 
with  the  halter. 


TRAINING   THE    HORSE    TO   LEAD 

After  the  horse  becomes  accustomed  to  being 
handled,  and  familiar  with  the  halter,  he  should  be 
taught  to  lead.     As  this  is  a  very  important  matter, 


52  Training  the  Work  Horse 

due  care  should  be  exercised  to  avoid  a  misunder- 
standing between  the  horse  and  his  master.  The 
advice  given  in  teaching  the  foal  to  lead  (p.  34) 
applies  here,  but  it  may  be  necessary  to  employ  other 
methods,  particularly  if  the  horse  is  rather  stubborn. 
While  the  loin-hitch,  which  was  recommended  for 
use  on  the  foal,  is  often  successfully  employed  on 
older  horses,  it  sometimes  happens  that  better  re- 
sults can  be  secured  by  the  use  of  the  tail-hitch  or 
the  quarters-hitch. 

The  tail-hitch.  —  Secure  a  small  rope  or  sash-cord 
about  ten  feet  long,  tie  a  stationary  loop  at  one  end, 
place  the  tail  through  this  loop  and  bring  the  free  end 
of  the  rope  forward  and  pass  through  the  ring  on  the 
halter  or  under  the  jaw  strap.  To  prevent  this 
slipping  over  the  tail  when  it  gets  slack,  take  a  small 
rope  and  make  a  surcingle,  placing  a  ring  at  the  top 
through  which  the  rope  leading  from  the  tail  to  the 
halter  may  pass  (Fig.  6). 

Take  the  halter  strap  in  one  hand  the  rope  in  the 
other,  pull  gently  on  the  former,  and  as  the  horse 
begins  to  shake  his  head  or  to  step  back  give  the 
latter  a  sharp  pull  and  the  animal  will  move  forward. 
Caress  him  until  he  quiets,  and  when  his  confidence 
has  been  restored  repeat  the  process,  using  the  rope 
when  needed.  In  a  few  minutes  the  horse  will  follow 
where  led  and  the  rope  may  be  removed. 

While  this  hitch  is  a  very  effective  method  of  teach- 
ing a  horse  to  lead,  care  should  be  exercised  in  its 


Training  the  Horse  to  Lead 


53 


use.  The  under  side  of  the  tail  is  very  tender  and 
the  roughened  surface  of  the  rope  sometimes  provokes 
the  horse  to  kick,  particularly  if  nervous.  With 
such  horses  the  quarters-hitch  is  to  be  preferred. 

The  quarters-hitch.  —  Secure  a  small  rope,  or  sash- 
cord,  and  tie  a  large  loop  at  one  end.     This  loop 


Fig.  6.  —  The  tail-hitch  used  in  teaching  the  young  horse  to  lead. 

should  be  of  sufficient  size  so  that  when  placed  in 
position  on  the  horse  it  surrounds  his  quarters,  leav- 
ing the  knot  well  forward,  on  the  back.  Pass  the 
free  end  along  the  back  and  through  the  ring  on  the 
halter  (Fig.  7).  By  pulling  on  this  rope  pressure 
is  brought  on  the  quarters,  and  the  animal  moves 
forward.     This   hitch  has   the   advantage   that   the 


54 


Training  the  Work  Horse 


pressure  is  brought  to  bear  at  a  place  where  there  is 
httle  or  no  Hkehhood  of  injuring  the  horse,  and  yet 
the  pressure  stimulates  a  forward  movement  as  well 
if  not  better  than  either  the  loin-  or  tail-hitch. 


TEACH    THE    HORSE    TO    FOLLOW   WHEN    LOOSE 

In  order   to   facilitate   catching   the   horse   when 
loose,  as  at  pasture,  it  is  of  advantage  to  have  him 


Fig.  7.  —  The  quarters-hitch,  used  in  teaching  the  young  horse  to  lead. 

trained  to  come  up  to  us,  and  to  follow.  While 
there  are  many  methods  of  teaching  the  horse  to 
follow,  only  two  are  here  given,  one  to  be  employed 
on  teachable  and  gentle  horses,  the  other  on  horses 
rather  stubborn  in  their  disposition.  As  soon  as  the 
teachable  horse  has  been  taught  to  lead,  procure  a 


Teaching  the  Horse  to  Follow  55 

whip,  and  facing  the  animal,  take  a  position  in  front, 
or  slightly  to  the  left,  caress  him  by  gently  rubbing 
the  whip  over  his  back  and  rump.  When  ready  to 
start,  say  ^^come  here,"  and  immediately  follow  the 
command  by  striking  the  horse  on  the  rump  with 
the  whip,  which  will  induce  him  to  walk  forward. 
Walk  backward  at  the  same  rate  as  the  horse  walks 
forward,  giving  the  command  ^^come  here"  to  in- 
duce him  to  follow.  When  he  follows  at  command, 
place  the  whip  under  the  left  arm.  This  method  may 
require  some  time,  but  with  a  little  patient  effort  the 
teachable  horse  will  follow  you  without  the  use  of 
either  halter  or  whip. 

Some  horsemen  in  teaching  a  horse  to  follow  pre- 
fer to  turn  the  animal  loose  in  a  small  inclosure,  say 
twenty-five  feet  square.  It  is  important  that  the 
floor  be  of  earth,  and  that  all  objects  be  removed,  as 
they  may  attract  the  colt's  attention.  If  the  horse  is 
two  years  old,  or  more,  some  prefer  to  teach  this 
lesson  before  training  to  the  use  of  the  halter.  When 
ready,  turn  the  horse  loose  in  the  inclosure  and 
snap  the  whip  a  few  times  to  attract  his  attention. 
Remaining  near  the  center,  follow  him  around  a 
few  times,  occasionally  snapping  him  about  the 
heels  with  the  whip.  Soon  he  will  stop  in  the  corner 
farthest  from  you.  Walk  directly  to  him,  giving 
him  an  opportunity  to  turn  to  you.  If  he  turns  his 
heels  as  if  to  kick  or  run  away,  strike  him  severely 
about  the  hind  legs.     Soon  he  will  understand  that 


56  Training  the  Work  Horse 

he  exposes  himself  to  punishment  by  turning  away 
from  you.  Repeat  until  he  turns  his  head  toward 
you  when  approached. 

As  this  was  the  way  you  wished  the  horse  to  turn, 
he  should  be  rewarded  by  having  his  crest  scratched 
with  the  end  of  the  whip,  and  if  convenient  by  feed- 
ing a  carrot  or  other  dainty.  You  are  now  ready  to 
teach  him  to  follow  by  the  method  described  above. 
If  he  refuses  to  obey  the  command  ^'come  here'' 
and  runs  away,  strike  him  sharply  about  the  heels. 
If  he  obeys,  caress  him.  Soon  the  animal  will  under- 
stand that  he  is  punished  for  running  away  and 
caressed  for  following.  When  he  understands  this 
he  will  follow  and  you  may  discard  the  whip. 

TRAINING   TO    THE    USES    OF    THE    BIT 

Perhaps  no  other  factor  in  the  training  of  horses, 
whether  for  work  or  pleasure,  is  of  greater  importance 
than  that  of  educating  to  the  uses  of  the  bit.  The 
thoroughness  with  which  this  is  accomplished  will 
go  far  towards  determining  their  usefulness.  Inas- 
much as  the  conveyance  of  the  master's  desire  to 
the  horse's  mind  for  execution  is  largely  through  the 
hands,  reins,  bit  and  mouth,  little  progress  can  be 
made  and  none  should  be  attempted  until  this  means 
of  communication  has  been  established. 

Before  bitting,  the  mouth  should  be  examined 
for  sores,  as  it  is  not  possible  properly  to  train  a 


A  Good  Mouth  57 

horse  to  the  uses  of  the  bit  while  suffering  from  sore 
mouth.  Such  an  examination  is  not  difficult.  Place 
the  horse  where  there  is  good  hght.  To  examine 
the  left  side,  pass  the  left  hand  into  the  right  side 
of  the  mouth,  grasp  the  tongue  gently,  and  pull  it 
to  one  side,  but  not  out  of  the  mouth,  which  will 
expose  the  bar,  or  branch  of  the  lower  jaw  on  the 
left  side.  The  thumb  of  the  right  hand  may  now 
be  placed  in  the  roof  of  the  mouth  so  as  to  separate 
the  jaws,  when  the  left  side  of  the  mouth  may  be 
observed.  The  other  side  should  be  examined  in 
a  similar  way. 

Importance  of  a  good  mouth. —  No  factor  contributes 
so  much  to  the  pleasure,  comfort  and  safety  of  either 
rider  or  driver  as  a  responsive  mouth  —  one  that 
always  obeys  promptly  the  slightest  instruction 
from  the  master.  A  good  mouth  —  one  with  sen- 
sitive bars  —  is  natural  to  the  horse.  ^^ Tender," 
^^hard,"  and  all  kinds  of  '^ spoiled"  mouths  result 
from  improper  handling.  Such  spoiled  mouths 
arevery  aggravating  and  often  the  cause  of  many 
other  imperfections  —  tongue  lolling,  crossing  the 
jaws,  hobbling,  kicking,  balking,  running  away  and 
the  Hke  —  many  of  which  when  well  established 
are  very  difficult  to  overcome  (p.  249). 

Bitting  the  horse.  —  The  object  of  correct  bitting 
is  to  preserve,  instead  of  diminish,  the  natural  sensi- 
tiveness of  the  bars  of  the  horse's  mouth.  The  kind 
of  bit  to  use,  therefore,  is  important.     Because  of 


58  Training  the  Work  Horse 

the  importance  of  correct  bitting,  many  kinds  of  bits 
have  been  devised  for  training  the  horse  as  well  as 
for  subsequent  use  (p.  320).  Many  of  these  bits 
irritate  the  tender  parts  and  destroy  rather  than 
preserve  the  natural  sensitiveness  of  the  lips  and 
bars.  While  any  bit  may  slightly  abrade  the  lips 
and  bars  of  the  mouth,  many  of  these  patent  bits 
produce  deep  sores.  This,  of  course,  renders  training 
to  the  uses  of  the  bit  unnecessarily  painful,  and  may 
produce  a  spoiled  mouth. 

The  proper  bit  to  use  depends  on  the  object 
sought.  Thus  in  training  the  saddle  horse  one 
type  of  bit  is  demanded  (p.  151) ;  in  the  coach 
horse  another  type  (p.  134) ;  in  the  trotting  horse 
still  another ;  and  the  work  horse  responds  more 
readily  to  a  bit  differing  from  any  of  the  above  types. 
Whatever  kind  of  bit  is  used  it  should  be  strong, 
without  being  heavy  and  cumbersome.  In  train- 
ing the  work  horse  a  straight  or  slightly  curved  bar- 
bit  with  leather  guards,  and  covered  with  rubber 
or  leather  in  case  the  horse's  mouth  is  tender,  can- 
not be  improved  upon. 

Many  training  bits  are  provided  with  keys  at- 
tached to  the  mouthpiece,  which  encourage  the  horse 
to  champ  and  thus  familiarize  himself  with  the  bit 
(Fig.  94,  26  and  27).  While  key-bits  are  useful, 
especially  for  those  horses  which  persist  in  keeping 
a  dry  mouth,  sulkily  refusing  to  champ  the  bit,  as 
the  keys  assist  in  the  work  of  bitting  such  an  ani- 


Adapting  to  the  Bit  59 

mal,  they  should  never  be  used  on  nervous  horses 
that  champ  the  straight  bit.  Occasionally  the 
mouth  of  a  nervous  horse  is  spoiled  by  the  use  of 
the  key-bit.  In  case  the  horse  refuses  to  champ  the 
bit  and  the  key-bit  is  used,  its  usefulness  may  be 
increased  by  smearing  the  keys  and  mouthpiece 
with  honey  or  other  sweets,  as  such  materials  en- 
courage the  horse  to  lick  and  champ  the  bit. 

When  placing  the  bit  in  the  horse's  mouth  for  the 
first  time,  carefully  lift  the  bridle  with  the  left  hand 
until  it  is  above  the  eyes,  then  pass  the  right  hand 
over  the  animal's  head,  quietly  lift  the  poll-piece 
and  place  the  bridle  in  position.  At  the  same  time 
open  the  horse's  mouth  slightly  by  pressing  the  bars 
under  the  lower  lip  with  the  thumb  and  forefinger 
of  the  left  hand  and  guide  the  bit  into  the  mouth. 
If  the  horse  refuses  to  open  his  mouth,  insert  the 
fingers  of  the  left  hand  into  the  mouth  and  tickle 
the  roof.  The  bit  will  then  slip  into  the  mouth, 
and  it  should  be  arranged  so  as  to  lie  on  the  bars. 

The  adjustment  of  the  bridle  and  the  length  of 
the  bit  are  important.  The  length  of  the  head- 
stall must  be  adjusted  so  as  to  bring  the  bit  in  mild 
contact  with  the  bars  of  the  mouth.  If  the  head- 
stall is  too  short,  the  bit  is  drawn  up  into  the  mouth 
too  far  and  the  bars  as  well  as  the  corners  of  the 
mouth  soon  become  sore  and  the  animal  may  be- 
come vicious  ;  on  the  other  hand,  if  too  long,  the  bit 
drops  in  the  mouth,  and  the  animal  becomes  care- 


60  Training  the  Work  Horse 

less.  The  bit  should  be  of  proper  length  for  the 
horse.  If  it  is  too  long  it  will  pull  through  the 
mouth  so  that  the  pressure  will  not  be  equal  on 
either  bar  and  the  horse  may  become  confused 
(p.  321). 

The  bitting-harness.  —  The  horse  can  usually  be 
made  familiar  with  the  uses  of  the  bit  by  the  appli- 
cation of  the  bitting-harness.  This  harness  con- 
sists of  an  open  bridle  with  a  large,  smooth,  guarded 
bit  and  check-rein,  surcingle  and  crupper  and  two 
side  lines  running  from  the  bit  to  rings  on  either 
side  of  the  surcingle  (Fig.  8).  If  the  horse  is  of  a 
nervous  disposition,  it  will  often  allay  his  fear  to 
permit  him  to  smell  and  feel  this  harness  before 
placing  it  on  his  back  (Fig.  13).  Arrange  the  har- 
ness with  much  care. 

With  the  bitting-harness  properly  adjusted,  turn 
the  horse  into  the  training  paddock  to  familiarize 
himself  with  the  bit.  The  check  and  side-reins  should 
be  left  slack  at  first.  During  the  first  few  lessons 
the  bit  should  not  be  retained  in  the  animal's  mouth 
for  more  than  half  an  hour  at  a  time.  He  may  be 
given  two  or  perhaps  three  lessons  a  day.  Subse- 
quently the  lessons  may  be  longer.  Gradually  from 
day  to  day  the  reins  should  be  shortened,  care  being 
taken  that  they  are  never  made  so  short  as  to  place 
the  head  in  an  uncomfortable  position,  or  draw  the 
bit  so  tightly  as  to  make  the  corners  of  the  mouth 
sore.     The  number  of  lessons  necessary  to  familiarize 


Training  to  the  Uses  of  the  Bit 


61 


the  horse  with  the  uses  of  the  bit  will  depend  entirely 
on  the  individual.  Some  horses  will  drive  after  one 
or  two,  while  others  will  require  a  week  or  more  be- 
fore they  fully  understand  its  uses. 


Fig.  8.  —  The  bitting-harness,  for  teaching  the  uses  of  the  bit 


During  this  bitting  process  some  horses  acquire 
the  habit  of  throwing  their  heads  up  and  down,  a 
habit  which  when  once  established  is  very  annoying 
and    often    difficult    to    overcome.     Among    saddle 


62  Training  the  Work  Horse 

horses  the  habit  is  dangerous  to  the  rider.  To 
overcome  this,  one  must  use  a  martingale  and  an 
over-draw  check-rein  (p.  327).  Occasionally  a  horse 
shows  a  disposition  to  carry  his  head  too  low,  in 
which  case  the  over-draw  check-rein  should  be  used. 
In  common  practice  there  are  two  other  forms  of 
side-reins  used  on  the  bitting-harness,  the  '' elastic" 
rein,  and  '^running"  rein.  The  elastic  rein  is  com- 
posed of  rubber  and  is  attached  the  same  as  the 
leather  side-rein  described  above.  The  leather  side- 
rein  is  often  spoken  of  as  the  ^^ fixed  rein."  The 
running  rein  is  made  from  a  small  rope  or  sash-cord 
and  is  attached  as  follows :  The  surcingle  and 
bridle  are  similar  to  those  described  above  save  both 
side-  and  check-rein  are  removed.  Tie  the  cord 
or  rein  in  the  lower  ring  of  the  surcingle  on  the  off- 
side, pass  it  through  the  bit  and  back  through  the 
ring  at  the  top  of  the  surcingle,  then  down  through 
the  bit  on  the  near-side  and  back  to  the  lower  ring 
on  the  near-side  and  tie  fast.  Instead  of  tying  the 
ends  fast  to  the  rings  on  the  surcingle,  this  rein  is 
sometimes  modified  by  passing  one  end  up  through 
the  ring  at  the  top  of  the  surcingle  then  down  to  the 
other  end  and  tying  the  two  ends  together  in  such  a 
way  that  they  will  slip  through  the  rings  on  both  the 
bridle  and  surcingle  (Fig.  9).  Each  of  these  reins 
has  its  advantages  and  disadvantages:  the  fixed 
rein  sometimes  produces  horses  with  ^'lugging" 
mouths ;     the    running    rein    sometimes    produces 


Driving  the  Horse 


63 


'^ unresponsive"   mouths,  and  the  elastic  rein  some- 
times creates  a  '^boring"  horse  —  one  that  thrusts 


P'iG.  9.  —  Running  side-reins,  useful  in  bitting  the  horse. 

his  nose  forward  and  drops  his  head  at  the  same  time 
and  often  snatches  the  lines  through  the  hands  of  the 
driver. 

DRIVING   THE    HORSE    WITH   LINES 

As  soon  as  the  horse  becomes  familiar  with  the  bit, 
the  side-reins  may  be  substituted  for  lines  and  he 
may  be  driven  about  the  inclosure.     It  is  important 


64 


Training  the  Work  Horse 


to  pass  the  lines  through  the  rings  on  either  side  of 
the  surcingle,  as  the  lines  will  then  pass  the  hind 
quarters  low  and  thus  prevent  the  horse  from  turn- 
ing wdth  his  head  towards  us.  It  is  very  important 
to  keep  the  lines  low  in  turning  to  make  the  guiding 


Fig.  10.  —  Teaching  the  horse  to  drive  with  lines. 

process  easy  (Fig.  10).  To  avoid  a  mishap  at  this 
time,  some  suggest  the  use  of  a  long  rein  to  serve  as  a 
lead  rein  if  perchance  the  animal  should  turn  his 
head  towards  us  while  driving. 

During  the  first  driving  lesson  the  horse  should  be 
reined  but  mildly  if  at  all,  since  if  tight,  the  rein  w^ll 
have  a  tendency  to  induce  him  to  run  backward, 
which  should  by  all  means  be  prevented.     Further, 


Driving  the  Horse  with  Lines  65 

the  horse  is  Hable  to  lower  his  head  and  give  himself 
a  jerk  and  thus  distract  his  attention  from  the  work 
in  hand.  For  a  few  minutes  allow  the  horse  consid- 
erable liberty,  in  order  that  he  may  become  accus- 
tomed to  going  away  from  you,  at  the  same  time 
permitting  you  to  walk  behind.  This  first  driving 
lesson  should  not  last  long,  and  the  horse  should  be 
started  by  tapping  him  with  the  line,  and  he  should 
be  stopped  by  gentle  pressure  on  the  bit.  Avoid 
using  spoken  language  until  ready  to  teach  the 
meaning  of  the  words. 

The  horse  should  now  be  taught  to  guide  to  the 
right  and  to  the  left.  To  teach  him  to  turn  to  the 
left,  slacken  the  right  line  and  pull  smartly  on  the 
left  one,  not  wdth  a  jerk,  but  with  a  swinging  pull. 
If  the  horse  comes  around  too  far,  hold  the  whip 
on  the  left  shoulder.  Do  not  pull  him  back  with  the 
right  line,  and  do  not  strike  him  with  the  whip,  as 
either  movement  will  confuse  him.  If,  however,  the 
horse  does  not  respond  when  the  left  line  is  pulled, 
tap  him  on  the  right  shoulder  with  the  whip  to  in- 
duce him  to  turn  away  quickly  and  not  to  give  him 
time  to  fight  the  bit.  After  he  has  turned  a  few 
times  to  the  left,  slacken  the  left  side-line  and  give 
a  swinging  pull  on  the  right  one  to  induce  him  to 
turn  to  the  right,  taking  the  same  precautions  as 
above.  Repeat  this  process,  using  less  and  less  force 
as  the  animal  learns  to  turn. 

Teaching  the  command  "whoa.^^  —  If  all  has  gone 


66  Training  the  Work  Horse 

well,  the  next  day  after  teaching  the  horse  to  drive 
with  the  lines,  he  should  be  taught  the  meaning  of 
^'whoa.'^  This  word  should  be  used  only  when  we 
wish  the  animal  to  stop  and  stand.  This  is  an  im- 
portant matter  in  the  education  of  the  horse.  The 
horse  that  continues  to  move  after  the  command  is 
given,  or  that  is  continually  stepping  about  when 
you  wish  him  to  stand  quietly,  is  very  aggravating, 
and  his  usefulness  as  well  as  his  value  is  lessened. 
The  safety,  comfort  and  pleasure  in  handling  a  horse 
that  promptly  obeys  the  command  ^^whoa"  are  em- 
phasized by  the  fact  that  he  will  command  a  higher 
price  on  the  market. 

After  driving  the  horse  about  the  inclosure  a  few 
times,  or  until  he  is  going  smoothly,  give  the  com- 
mand ^^whoa,"  followed  by  a  strong  swinging  pull 
on  both  lines,  and  the  moment  the  horse  stops 
slacken  the  lines,  otherwise  he  may  become  a  con- 
firmed lugger.  If  necessary  to  stop  the  horse, 
repeat  the  word  and  action.  As  he  has  done  what 
you  wished  him  to  do,  he  should  be  caressed  before 
starting  again.  It  will  aid  the  horse  in  fixing  the 
impression,  if  he  is  stopped  in  the  same  place  for  a 
few  times.  The  second  or  third  time  he  will  stop 
there  at  the  command  alone.  Do  not  stop  too  many 
times  at  one  place  or  there  will  be  difficulty  in 
getting  him  to  pass.  About  the  third  or  fourth 
time,  therefore,  try  him  at  a  new  place.  It  may  be 
necessary  to  follow  the  command  with  the  action  of 


The  Signals  or  Commands  67 

the  lines  at  this  new  place.  Repeat  until  the  horse 
will  stop  at  any  place  when  commanded. 

Teaching  the  command  "getup.^^  —  The  next  day 
after  teaching  the  horse  the  meaning  of  the  term 
''whoa, "  he  should  be  taught  the  command  ''get 
up."  Previous  to  this  time  the  horse  should  have 
been  started  by  tapping  him  on  the  rump  with  the 
line.  Drive  the  horse  about  the  training  inclosure 
several  times,  frequently  stopping  him  at  the  command 
"whoa."  When  going  smoothly,  stop  him  prepara- 
tory to  teaching  the  meaning  of  the  command 
"get  up."  When  ready  to  start,  give  the  command 
"get  up,"  pausing  a  moment,  then  striking  him  a  tap 
with  the  whip.  This  will  start  him  forward.  When 
going  smoothly,  stop  him  at  the  command  "whoa." 
Repeat  as  before,  starting  with  the  term  "get  up" 
and  stopping  with  the  term  "whoa,"  until  he  will 
stop  and  start  at  the  command  alone.  It  is  good 
practice  to  impress  the  meaning  of  these  terms  so 
thoroughly  that  the  horse  will  obey,  even  though  he 
be  running  loose  in  the  inclosure  and  the  commands 
be  given  by  one  standing  in  the  center  of  the  paddock. 

Teaching  the  command  "back J'  —  The  meaning 
of  the  term  "back"  may  be  taught  immediately 
following  that  of  "get  up."  With  the  horse  stand- 
ing, draw  the  near  line  tight,  give  the  command 
"back"  and  follow  immediately  with  a  sharp  swing- 
ing pull  with  the  off  line.  This  will  induce  the  horse 
to  step  backward.     Follow  with  the  command  and 


68  Training  the  Work  Horse 

give  the  see-saw  pull.  Stop  at  the  command  ^^  whoa.'^ 
Do  not  tire  the  horse  by  continually  backing  him  for 
a  prolonged  period.  Start  him  forward  at  the 
command  ^'get  up";  stop  him  at  the  command 
^Svhoa"  and  repeat  the  backing  lesson  at  the  com- 
mand ^^back"  until  he  obeys  the  voice  promptly. 


HARNESSING,    HITCHING   AND   DRIVING    THE    HORSE 

To  be  harnessed  is  a  very  important  part  of  the 
horse's  education.  Animals  that  have  behaved  well 
up  to  this  time  often  become  confused  and  not  only 
disobey  commands  but  may  become  uncontrollable. 
This  comes  about  naturally  when  the  horse  is  har- 
nessed and  hitched  without  proper  preparation.  We 
have  seen  that  pressure  in  front  induces  the  horse 
to  go  backward,  and  that  pressure  behind  induces 
him  to  move  forward  (p.  28).  Thus  when  the  horse 
is  harnessed  and  hitched  without  proper  preparation, 
and  started  forward  at  the  command  ^'get  up,"  the 
pressure  from  the  breast-harness  or  collar  induces  him 
to  step  backward.  Now  he  has  received  the  com- 
mand to  go  forward  and  the  stimulus  to  move  back- 
ward, which  confuses  him,  as  he  cannot  do  both.  If 
he  disregards  the  command  and  obeys  the  stimulus 
of  the  pressure  and  moves  backward,  the  breeching 
presses  against  the  quarters,  thus  inducing  him  to 
go  forward.  The  horse's  confusion  is  now  greater 
than  before.     While  he  is  moving  back  and  forth 


Poling  the  Horse  69 

between  the  pressure  of  the  collar  and  the  breeching, 
he  is  so  excited  that  he  does  not  heed  the  commands 
of  the  driver,  who  often  becomes  aggravated  and 
strikes  the  animal  a  sharp  cut  with  the  whip.  This 
frightens  the  already  excited  horse,  and  he  moves 
forward  with  a  bound.  The  driver  then  jerks  him 
backward  and  holds  a  tight  line.  Thus  the  horse  is 
punished  both  at  the  mouth  and  in  the  rear.  By 
this  time  the  animal's  confusion  is  complete,  and  he 
is  likely  to  rear,  kick,  run  away  or  do  anything  to 
free  himself. 

A  little  patient  effort  spent  in  familiarizing  the 
horse  with  the  pressure  of  the  harness  and  shafts, 
and  in  teaching  him  what  is  expected  of  him,  will 
avoid  all  such  confusion  and  risk. 

Poling  the  horse.  —  Before  harnessing  or  hitching, 
the  horse  should  be  made  familiar  with  the  pressure 
caused  by  the  harness  and  shafts.  To  do  this, 
procure  ^  light  pole  five  or  six  feet  long,  and  let  the 
horse  smell  and  feel  it  with  his  nose  (Fig.  11).  Gently 
rub  the  pole  over  the  nose,  the  side  of  the  face  and 
up  to  the  mane  and  .  crest.  After  scratching  the 
crest  pass  the  pole  back  to  the  withers,  down  over 
the  shoulder,  and  along  the  outside  and  inside  of  the 
forelegs.  Pass  the  pole  along  the  back  to  the  hind 
quarters,  down  along  the  outside  and  inside  of  the 
hind  legs.  Repeat  the  process  first  on  one  side, 
and  then  on  the  other,  rubbing  every  part  of  the 
body  (Fig.  12). 


70 


Training  the  Work  Horse 


If  at  any  time  the  horse  should  become  excited 
and  refuse  to  stand,  allow  him  to  touch  the  pole 
with  his  nose,  and  gradually  work  back  over  him 
again.  After  he  has  become  perfectly  submissive 
to  the  pressure  on  all  parts  of  his  body,  it  is  a  good 


Fig.  11.  —  Poling  the  head  and  nose. 

plan  to  place  the  pole  under  the  tail,  as  this  will 
teach  him  to  stand  while  the  crupper  is  being  ar- 
ranged. To  do  this,  stand  a  little  to  one  side  and 
with  the  pole  touch  both  hind  legs  a  short  distance 
above  the  hocks.  With  the  left  hand,  carefully 
raise  the  tail,  and  with  the  right  hand  gently  work 
the  pole  upward  a  few  inches ;   pause  a  moment  and 


Poling  the  Horse 


71 


repeat,  until  the  pole  rests  directly  under  the  tail, 
lying  across  the  quarters.  After  a  moment,  care- 
fully raise  the  tail  and  gently  remove  the  pole,  so  as 
not   to   frighten   the   horse.     A   few  repetitions   of 


Fig.  12.  —  Poling  the  body  and  legs. 


this  process  will  render  most  horses  very  easy  to 
crupper. 

Poling  has  a  very  desirable  effect  upon  the  horse, 
especially  if  the  animal  is  of  a  nervous  and  sensitive 
disposition.  It  will  render  him  gentle  to  the  touch 
of  the  harness,  shafts  or  any  other  object  coming  in 
contact  with  the  body.  After  harnessing,  some 
continue  the  poling  process  by  arranging  two  poles, 
one  on  either  side  of  the  body,   similar   to  shafts, 


72  Training  the  Work  Horse 

securing  the  front  end  by  strapping  to  the  hame  tugs, 
and  the  rear  end  to  the  hip-straps  and  breeching, 
and  then  driving  the  horse  about  the  inclosure  a  few 
times.  The  rear  end  of  the  poles  is  then  unstrapped 
from  the  hip-straps  and  permitted  to  drag  on  the 
ground  as  the  horse  is  being  driven  about  the  pad- 
dock. This  has  the  added  advantage  of  famihariz- 
ing  him  with  the  position  and  pressure  of  the  shafts 
as  well  as  to  the  pressure  of  the  collar  and  the  breech- 
ing, while  in  motion. 

Harnessing  the  horse.  —  With  the  horse  properly 
poled,  harnessing  is  an  easy  task.  Put  him  in  his 
accustomed  stall  and  allow  him  to  smell  and  feel  the 
harness  (Fig.  13).  This  is  important,  for  occa- 
sionally horses  are  frightened  out  of  their  senses  by 
the  careless  driver  throwing  the  harness  over  their 
backs  before  allowing  them  to  feel  and  smell  it.  In 
this  manner,  the  bands  and  loose  straps  striking  the 
animal  on  the  legs  and  abdomen  often  provoke 
kicking.  Such  excitement  can  be  avoided  easily 
by  permitting  the  horse  to  smell  and  feel  the  harness 
and  by  gently  lifting  it  over  his  back.  Carefully 
raise  the  tail,  and  gently  put  the  crupper  strap  on, 
then  step  to  the  side  and  fasten  the  bands.  With 
care,  work  the  breast  harness  or  collar  over  the  head 
as  suggested  in  bridling   (p.   59). 

While  the  harness  should  not  be  new,  smelling  of 
things  unfamiliar  to  the  horse,  it  should  be  of  good 
quality  and  in  good  repair,  for  if  a  part  breaks  there 


Fitting  the  Harness 


73 


may  be  trouble  and  the  horse  ruined  for  all  time. 
When  convenient,  use  harness  that  has  been  in  con- 
stant use.  It  should  be  so  adjusted  as  to  fit  per- 
fectly.    The  collar  should  receive  attention,  as  it  is 


Fig.  13.  —  The  young  horse  becoming  familiar  with  the  harness. 

by  means  of  this  that  the  horse  exerts  his  power. 
(For  discussion  on  fitting  harness  see  page  317.) 

A  careful  examination  of  the  shoulders  and  quar- 
ters of  the  horse  must  be  made  from  time  to  time. 
Oftentimes  the  collar  that  fits  perfectly  in  the  begin- 
ning soon  becomes  too  large,  due  to  the  horse  losing 
flesh.  The  untrained  horse's  flesh  is  very  tender, 
and  the  friction  of  the  harness  often  produces  sore- 


74  Training  the  Work  Horse 

ness.  The  parts  likely  to  become  abraded  are  the 
shoulders,  caused  by  the  collar;  the  back,  caused 
by  the  saddle  of  the  harness;  the  tail,  caused  by 
the  crupper  ;  and  the  quarters,  caused  by  the  breech- 
ing. At  the  slightest  sign  of  any  abrasion,  the  train- 
ing must  temporarily  cease.  Bathe  the  sore  parts 
with  soap  and  water,  then  apply  an  astringent,  as 
salt  and  water,  or  alum  and  water,  to  harden  and 
heal  them.  As  soon  as  the  soreness  has  disappeared, 
the  training  should  be  resumed  (p.  373). 

Hitching  single.  —  After  harnessing,  but  before 
hitching,  tie  the  traces  to  the  ring  on  each  side  of  the 
breeching,  thus  causing  a  slight  pressure  on  the 
collar  and  breeching,  and  drive  the  horse  about 
the  inclosure.  Start  him  at  the  command  ^'get  up," 
stop  him  at  '^  whoa"  and  have  him  move  backward 
at  the  command  ''  back."  Turn  him  to  the  right 
and  left,  and  when  he  is  going  smoothly  take  him 
out  on  the  highway.  At  first,  because  of  the  new 
environment,  the  horse  may  act  strangely,  but  go 
through  with  all  the  commands  and  signals  that 
he  has  thus  far  been  taught.  The  horse  is  now 
ready  to  be  hitched  to  a  vehicle  (Fig.  14). 

Training-cart.  —  If  at  all  convenient,  the  first  time 
the  horse  is  hitched,  a  training-cart  —  one  with  long 
shafts,  substantially  constructed,  and  the  seat  so  ar- 
ranged that  the  driver  can  get  off  and  on  quickly  — 
should  be  employed  (Fig.  15).  Such  a  cart  can  be 
constructed  from  the  rear  wheels  and  the  axle  of  a 


Harnessing  and  Hitching  the  Horse  75 


Fig.  14.  —  Driving  in  harness  previous  to  hitching  to  a  vehicle. 


m 

Fig.  15.  —  Acquainting  the  horse  with  the  training-cart. 


76  Training  the  Work  Horse 

buggy  or  carriage  by  fastening  two  long  poles,  hick- 
ory or  any  tough,  springy  wood,  to  the  axle  and  by 
fastening  a  cross-bar  and  whiffletree  in  front  and 
a  board  seat  in  the  rear.  The  shafts  should  be 
twelve  or  fourteen  feet  long,  with  provision  at  the 
ends  for  the  attachment  of  a  strap  across  from 
point  to  point  to  prevent  the  horse,  in  rearing,  from 
throwing  his  front  legs  over  the  ends  of  the  shafts. 
Training-carts  can  be  purchased  on  any  market 
where  buggies  are  sold.  Many  of  these  carts  are 
provided  with  steps  in  the  rear,  which  add  to  the 
utility. 

Such  a  cart  possesses  many  advantages,  particu- 
larly in  the  training  of  stubborn  and  unruly  horses. 
In  rearing,  the  horse  strikes  his  front  legs  against 
the  strap  in  front  and  goes  no  higher ;  in  kicking, 
he  is  so  far  ahead  of  the  vehicle  and  driver  that  he 
does  little  or  no  damage ;  in  turning  around  suddenly, 
he  is  obliged  to  make  so  large  a  circle  that  he  either 
gets  over  his  fright  or  becomes  discouraged  before 
going  far  ;  in  throwing  himself,  the  shafts  are  so  long 
and  springy  that  little  or  no  damage  is  done ;  in 
running  away,  all  that  need  be  done  is  to  give  him 
his  head  a  moment  until  the  muscles  of  the  neck  are 
relaxed,  and  then,  by  giving  a  swinging  pull  with 
one  line,  his  head  is  turned  so  far  to  one  side  that  he 
must  either  stop  or  fall;  and  should  the  horse  refuse 
to  obey  the  bit  in  turning  around,  we  have  but  to 
dismount,  pull  gently  on  one  rein  and  at  the  same 


Hitching  the  Horse  to  Vehicle 


77 


time  carry  the  cart  around,  which  will  point  him  in 
the  direction  we  wish  to  go. 

Familiarize  the  horse  with  the  vehicle.  —  The  horse 
should  be  poled  again  before  hitching.  Lead  the 
horse  up  to  the  vehicle  and  allow  him  to  smell  and 
feel  the  shafts.     Rub  them  along  his  head,  neck, 


Fig.  16.  — Acquainting  him  with  the  top  buggy. 

shoulders  and  forelegs,  both  inside  and  outside. 
Lead  him  up  between  the  shafts,  allowing  them  to 
rest  on  his  back,  then  drop  them  at  his  feet.  Re- 
peat this  process  several  times  and  let  him  smell 
and  feel  the  cross-bars,  dash-board  and  the  like 
(Figs.  15  and  16).  Turn  the  horse  around,  draw  the 
vehicle  up  so  that  the  shafts  are  even  with  his  heels, 
and  drop  them  as  before.  Pull  the  rig  forward  and 
place  the  shafts  on  his  back,  then  back  it,  rubbing 


78 


Training  the  Work  Horse 


the  shafts  over  the  rump,  down  along  the  hind  legs 
both  on  the  outside  and  inside,  dropping  them  occa- 
sionally. Finally  bring  the  rig  forward  until  the 
cross-bar  touches  the  horse's  quarters,  first  gently 
and  then  more  forcibly. 

Now  the  horse  may  be  hitched  to  the  vehicle  with 


Fig.  17.  —  Hitched  for  the  first  time,  showing  method  of  attaching  the 

kicking-strap. 

perfect  safety.  While  there  is  little  or  no  likelihood 
that  a  horse  trained  as  suggested  above  will  give 
trouble,  as  a  precautionary  measure  the  use  of  the 
kicking-strap  is  suggested.  This  is  a  heavy  strap 
placed  above  the  rump  just  back  of  the  hips  and  one 
end  buckled  to  each  shaft  (Fig.  17).  As  a  further 
safety  measure,   it    is  also    recommended   that    an 


Handling  with  a  Vehicle  70 

assistant  remain  at  the  horse's  head  to  aid  in 
starting,  stopping  and  turning  if  need  be.  When 
all  is  ready,  the  driver  should  take  his  position  behind 
the  cart,  not  on  it  at  first,  and  start  the  horse  at  the 
command  ''get  up."  At  the  same  time,  the  assistant 
should  aid  by  pulling  the  cart  forward.  After  the 
horse  takes  a  few  steps,  stop  at  the  command  ''  whoa." 
Repeat  until  the  horse  understands  what  is  expected 
of  him.  At  first  it  may  be  necessary  for  the  driver 
to  aid  in  turning  by  carrying  the  cart  around, 
especially  if  the  training  inclosure  is  small.  As 
soon  as  the  horse  will  obey  the  commands  ''get  up" 
and  "whoa"  and  will  guide  to  the  right  and  left, 
the  driver  may  mount  the  cart  and  drive  out  on  the 
highway.  The  assistant  should  be  provided  with  a 
long  lead  strap  and  should  walk  along  beside  the 
horse  until  the  latter  becomes  familiar  with  the  new 
environment.  He  may  then  mount  the  vehicle 
with  the  driver,  retaining  the  long  lead  strap  so  as 
to  be  ready  to  meet  any  emergency. 

The  horse  should  be  stopped  and  started  often  to 
assure  him  that  he  is  doing  what  is  expected  of  him. 
After  driving  at  a  walk  until  all  is  going  smoothly, 
the  horse  may  then  be  touched  up  into  a  trot.  Slow 
down  to  a  walk  and  repeat.  On  the  return  to  the 
training  paddock  the  horse  should  not  go  out  of  a 
walk.  It  is  not  good  practice  to  drive  back  and  forth 
past  the  barn  during  the  first  lesson,  as  the  colt  is 
likely  to  want  to  turn  in  and  he  may  give  some  trouble. 


80  Training  the  Work  Horse 

Teaching  the  command  ^^  steady. ^^  —  As  the  com- 
mand ^^whoa"  should  be  given  only  when  we  wish 
the  horse  to  stop  and  stand,  so  is  it  very  important 
that  he  be  taught  the  use  of  the  term  ^ ^steady"  very 
early  in  his  career.  While  this  term  is  to  be  used 
under  a  variety  of  conditions,  its  general  meaning 
should  be  to  slacken  and  pay  attention.  Thus  if 
we  wish  the  horse  to  maintairi  a  certain  speed,  we 
say  ^'steady"  in  a  soothing  tone;  if  we  wish  him 
to  slack  the  speed,  the  same  term  is  used  but  in  a 
stronger  tone ;  if  the  horse  is  frightened  and  we  wish 
him  to  quiet  down,  the  command  '^steady"  is  given 
in  a  high  tone  and  the  lines  are  used  in  a  character- 
istic see-saw  manner;  and  if  the  horse  is  about  to 
pull  a  heavy  load  and  we  wish  him  to  pay  attention, 
we  give  the  command  in  a  rather  deep  tone  and  hold 
evenly  on  the  lines. 

The  first  usage  of  the  command  ^^ steady"  that 
should  be  taught  is  that  of  slackening  the  speed,  as 
this  applies  when  the  horse  is  excited  and  we  wish 
him  to  calm.  This  requires  both  judgment  and 
patient  effort.  When  all  is  going  smoothly,  encour- 
age the  horse  until  he  is  going  at  a  very  lively  rate, 
then  give  the  command  '^steady,"  followed  by  a 
gentle  see-saw  motion  of  the  lines.  When  he  slows 
down  to  an  even  trot,  caress  him  by  rubbing  or  strok- 
ing him  over  the  rump  with  the  whip.  Repeat  until 
he  will  slow  down  at  the  command  alone. 

Backing  the  vehicle.  —  After  the  horse  has  been 


Driving  to  Vehicle 


81 


driven  several  times  and  is  going  smoothly,  he  should 
be  taught  to  back  the  rig.  To  do  this,  repeat  the 
lesson  on  backing  (p.  67)  before  hitching.  Some 
prefer  to  take  a  position  in  front  (Fig.  18).  This 
has  the    advantage    that    should   the    horse    refuse 


Fig.  18.  —  Teaching  to  back  with  the  lines. 

to  obey  the  command  and  the  lines,  you  can  assist 
him  (as  in  Fig.  19)  by  applying  pressure  on  the 
chest  with  the  ends  of  the  fingers  when,  according 
to  the  natural  impulse,  he  will  step  backward.  While 
working  in  this  position,  the  driver  applies  the 
pressure  with  the  right  hand,  pulls  the  lines  with  the 
left,  and  gives  the  command  ^^back"  at  the  same 
time.     After    the    horse    learns    to    back    with    the 


82 


Training  the  Work  Horse 


driver  in  front,  he  then  takes  his  position  behind  the 
horse  and  proceeds  as  in  teaching  to  back  (p.  67). 
Now  that  the  horse  obeys  the  command  readily, 
hitch  him  to  the  vehicle  and  drive  part  way  up  a 
slight  elevation.  Stop  him  and  give  the  command 
''back,"  followed  by  a  see-saw  motion  of  the  lines. 


Fig.  19.  —  Teaching  the  horse  to  back  a  vehicle. 

To  back  the  rig  down  such  an  elevation  requires  little 
or  no  pressure  on  the  breeching.  If  more  convenient, 
have  an  assistant  take  a  position  in  front  of  the  horse 
(Fig.  19).  By  employing  some  such  methods  as  these 
the  animal  learns  to  back  the  vehicle  in  a  natural 
manner.  Repeat,  stop,  start,  back,  turn  to  the  right 
and  left  until  the  horse  is  familiar  with  every  detail. 
Train  the  horse  to  come  under  the  shafts.  —  It  is 
very  aggravating  to  be  obliged  to  lead  the  horse  in 
front  of  the  vehicle,  leave  him  and  go  back  and  pull 


Driving  to  Vehicle  83 

the  rig  forward,  especially  if  he  keeps  stepping  up 
and  occasionally  walks  off  and  leaves  us  tugging  at 
the  shafts.  To  avoid  this,  train  the  horse  to  come 
under  the  shafts  from  the  beginning.  Take  the 
horse  to  the  training  paddock,  hold  the  whip  up  to  one 
side  and  over  him  and  try  to  make  him  go  under  it 
by  pulling  his  head  toward  the  whip.  If  he  obeys, 
caress  him ;  if  he  refuses,  lays  back  his  ears  or  steps 
back,  reach  over  and  tap  him  rather  lightly  with  the 
whip,  return  it  to  its  former  position,  and  ask  him  to 
go  under  as  before.  If  he  refuses,  repeat.  When  he 
goes  under  the  whip  at  the  signal,  hold  the  shafts 
up  and  he  will  walk  under  them.  If  he  should 
refuse,  hold  the  whip  in  the  hand  with  the  shafts. 
After  he  steps  under  the  shafts,  lower  them  and 
arrange  the  shaft  tugs,  traces  and  hold-backs. 

Caressing  with  the  whip.  —  Early  in  the  horse's 
training  he  should  become  familiar  with  the  uses  of 
the  whip,  not  only  as  a  means  of  punishment,  but  as 
a  means  of  reward.  The  way  to  caress  the  horse 
with  the  whip  is  to  place  it  gently  on  the  body  and 
carefully  stroke  or  rub  the  animal.  To  teach  the 
horse  this  usage  of  the  whip,  take  a  position  in  front 
of  him  similar  to  teaching  him  to  follow  (p.  54). 
Begin  by  rubbing  or  stroking  his  mane  and  crest, 
then  his  back,  sides,  rump  and  lastly  the  quarters. 
As  you  are  stroking  him,  feed  him  dainties,  as  sugar 
or  a  carrot.  Ask  the  horse  to  follow  you  to  some 
object  at  the  command  '^come  here,"  as  suggested. 


84  Training  the  Work  Horse 

This  object  should  not  be  such  as  to  frighten  him, 
as  a  robe,  but  something  famihar  to  the  horse. 
Keep  caressing  him  as  he  follows  along  by  stroking 
with  the  whip  and  by  an  occasional  taste  of  sugar. 
After  following  to  a  few  familiar  objects  try  a  strange 
one,  as  a  robe,  since  horses  are  naturally  afraid  of 
robes.  This  time  care  must  be  exercised.  It  may 
be  necessary  to  try  several  times  before  he  will 
touch  the  robe  with  his  nose,  but  by  constant  caress- 
ing and  occasional  tastes  of  sweets  he  will  walk  up  to 
it.  By  this  time  he  has  come  to  look  upon  the  con- 
stant stroking  as  a  signal  that  no  harm  is  to  come 
to  him. 

Hitching  double.  —  If  the  horse  is  to  be  worked  in 
a  team,  his  training  should  be  similar  to  that  sug- 
gested above.  When  ready  to  hitch  double,  get  a 
well-trained,  gentle,  but  active  horse,  if  the  one  you 
are  training  is  active,  for  it  is  a  mistake  to  hitch  a 
quick,  active  one  with  a  slow,  lazy  horse.  The 
vehicle  to  which  they  are  attached  should  be  pro- 
vided with  a  good  brake.  The  horse  in  training 
should  be  hitched  to  the  off  side  and  the  team  should 
be  driven  at  first  in  a  closed  field.  When  hitching 
double  for  the  first  time,  it  is  a  good  practice  to  keep 
a  pair  of  single  lines  on  the  horse  in  training,  which 
can  be  handled  by  an  assistant.  If  one  has  two 
horses  in  training  that  he  wishes  to  work  together, 
they  can  be  hitched  together  at  this  time  if  each  has 
been  trained  as  suggested  above.     If  they  do  not 


Teaching  the  Horse  not  to  he  Afraid  85 

match  well  in  disposition,  the  impulsive  one  should 
be  restrained  and  the  slower  one  urged,  so  that  when 
hitched  together  they  will  have  nearly  the  same  gait 
and  respond  similarly  to  the  commands  (Fig.  20). 


Fig.  20.  — Young  horses  liitched  double  for  the  first  time. 


TRAINING   THE    HORSE    TO    OBJECTS    OF   FEAR 

The  horse  should  be  made  familiar  with  the  various 
sounds  and  objects  he  is  likely  to  meet,  particularly 
along  the  busy  thoroughfares  of  cities.  Noise, 
such  as  is  produced  by  brass  bands,  street  car  gongs, 
and  the  fierce  shrieking  whistles  of  the  railroad 
engine,  and  objects  such  as  traction  engines,  motor 
cars,  trains  and  the  like,  is  likely  to  frighten  the 


86  Training  the  Work  Horse 

untrained  horse  out  of  his  senses  and  he  may  prove 
a  source  of  real  danger. 

The  horse  should  be  driven  once  or  twice  before 
going  through  the  course  to  familiarize  him  with 
frightful  objects.  At  first  his  attention  is  taken  up 
by  the  pressure  of  the  harness,  shafts  and  the  ve- 
hicle following,  and  he  gives  little  or  no  attention 
to  objects  along  the  road,  which  later  may  frighten 
him. 

For  best  results  in  giving  this  lesson  use  nothing 
but  the  bridle,  surcingle  and  lines.  Since  the  horse 
should  have  the  free  use  of  his  head  he  should  not 
be  reined.  To  train  the  horse  to  endure  strange 
sounds,  stand  him  in  the  center  of  the  inclosure  and 
at  first  have  an  assistant  hold  the  lines.  If  the  horse 
has  not  received  the  command  '^  whoa"  at  various 
angles,  he  should  at  this  time.  To  do  this,  circle 
around  the  horse,  giving  the  command  ''whoa"  every 
few  steps.  Procure  an  old  tin  pan  or  anything  that 
will  make  a  noise  and  walk  around  the  horse  as 
before.  When  in  front  of  him  gently  start  the  noise. 
The  first  time  or  two  around,  it  may  be  necessary  to 
stop  the  noise  as  you  pass  behind  the  horse,  par- 
ticularly if  he  is  very  nervous.  Gradually  increase 
the  racket  until  by  the  fourth  or  fifth  round  he  will 
stand  while  you  make  all  the  noise  you  can.  You 
may  now  give  the  pan  to  the  assistant  and  have  him 
walk  in  front,  making  all  the  noise  he  can  while  you 
drive  the  horse  after  him,  frequently  stopping  and 


Objects  of  Fear  87 

starting  at  the  commands.  Next  have  the  assistant 
run,  while  you  drive  after  him  in  a  trot. 

To  teach  the  horse  to  endure  strange  objects,  have 
the  assistant  take  a  position  about  a  rod  in  front  of 
the  horse,  facing  him,  and  with  his  upHfted  hands 
full  of  old  papers.  Drive  the  horse  toward  the  assist- 
ant, who  should  move  backward  as  the  animal 
approaches.  Drive  the  animal  between  the  out- 
stretched arms,  and  have  the  assistant  carefully  close 
in  and  gently  touch  either  side  of  the  neck  with  the 
papers.  Rub  them  over  the  head  and  along  the  neck 
to  convince  the  horse  that  they  are  harmless.  Drop 
the  papers  a  few  at  a  time  and  drive  over  them,  per- 
mitting him  to  stop  and  touch  them  with  his  nose 
if  he  likes.  The  papers  may  now  be  placed  in  a  large 
pile  and  the  horse  driven  through  them  with  perfect 
safety  (Fig.  21). 

In  some  such  manner,  the  horse  should  be  famil- 
iarized with  other  objects,  such  as  umbrellas,  flags, 
objects  along  the  road  and  the  like  that  are  likely  to 
frighten  him.  In  fact,  he  should  be  driven  up  to 
anything  that  frightens  him  in  the  least  and  per- 
mitted to  touch  it  with  his  nose.  It  is  rather  im- 
portant that  the  horse  very  early  in  his  career  be 
made  familiar  with  motor  cars,  street  cars,  trains, 
engines  and  the  like.  After  he  understands  the 
meaning  of  the  term  '^steady"  (p.  80)  and  to  be 
caressed  by  stroking  with  the  whip  (p.  83),  this 
should  not  be  difficult  to  teach.     The  street  car  is 


88 


Training  the  Work  Horse 


73 

O 
O 
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O 

a> 
a 


o 

fcJO 

O 


03 


c3 


6 


Frightened  Horses  89 

the  best  object  with  which  to  train  the  horse  to 
strange  things,  as  we  know  when  it  is  coming  and 
where  it  is  going,  which  we  are  never  sure  of  in  the 
case  of  an  automobile.  Choose  a  road  or  street 
where  the  car-hne  crosses,  drive  the  horse  up  to 
within,  say  approximately,  one  hundred  yards  of  the 
track  and  stop  until  a  car  passes.  If  he  seems 
nervous,  caress  him  with  the  whip  by  stroking  or 
rubbing  his  back,  and  by  the  command  '^ steady.'' 
Drive  over  the  tracks  and  something  like  an  equal 
distance  beyond,  and  stop  while  another  car  passes. 
This  time  the  noise  is  in  the  rear.  Repeat  this 
process,  working  the  horse  closer  as  each  car  passes, 
until  he  will  stand  within  a  few  feet  of  the  tracks  as 
it  passes.  If  perchance  the  car  should  stop  at  the 
crossing,  drive  the  horse  up  to  it  and  let  him  feel  it 
with  his  nose. 

Never  whip  the  horse  past  an  object  that  causes 
him  fright.  At  the  time  he  probably  is  so  frightened 
that  he  does  not  notice  the  blows  of  the  whip  until 
the  object  is  past,  in  which  case  he  may  associate 
the  pain  with  the  object  which  caused  his  fright ;  or 
if  he  does  feel  the  whip,  he  knows  that  it  cannot  do 
him  great  injury ;  whereas  he  does  not  know  the 
possibilities  of  the  object  and  prefers  the  blows  of 
the  former  to  facing  the  latter.  In  any  event  whip- 
ping a  frightened  horse  only  increases  his  excitement 
and  makes  him  more  difficult  to  drive  past  the  object. 
The  better  way  is  to  caress  him  with  the  whip  and 


90  Training  the  Work  Horse 

command  him  to  go  '^steady/'  when  he  will  calm, 
if  the  signal  and  command  have  been  taught  prop- 
erly. Then  he  should  be  made  to  face  the  object, 
and  if  convenient,  to  feel  it  with  his  nose.  Never 
let  the  horse  hurry  past  an  object  or  noise  that 
frightens  him.  It  may  take  some  skillful  manipula- 
tion and  much  patient  effort  to  familiarize  him  with 
all  the  objects  that  cause  him  alarm,  but  without 
such  training  his  education  is  essentially  incomplete 
and  at  any  time  he  may  be  frightened  out  of  his 
senses,  become  uncontrollable  and  a  serious  accident 
may  result. 

^^ Family  broke ^  —  In  the  show  ring,  on  the  horse 
market,  in  the  sale  stables  and  in  fact  wherever 
horses  are  shown  or  dealt  with  the  terms  ^'family 
broke''  and  ^^ family  horse"  are  used.  These  terms 
signify  that  the  horse  has  been  trained  so  that  he  is 
perfectly  safe  to  drive  by  any  one  accustomed  to 
handling  horses.  Such  animals  are  easily  harnessed 
—  bridled,  cruppered  and  the  like  —  often  will  fol- 
low at  the  command  ''come  here,"  go  under  the 
shafts  at  the  signal,  stand  while  being  hitched,  while 
mounting  the  vehicle,  arranging  the  robes  and  until 
commanded  to  go  forward.  In  addition  they  are 
familiar  with  all  noise,  such  as  brass  bands,  car  gongs 
and  the  like,  as  well  as  with  all  objects,  such  as  auto- 
mobiles, motor  cars,  engines,  trains  and  objects  by 
the  roadside.  The  importance  of  such  training  is 
emphasized  with  horses   of  this  class,  since,  other 


Family  Horses  91 

things  being  equal,  such  animals  command  the  higher 
price  on  the  market.  So  popular  are  such  horses  that 
most  town,  county  and  state  fairs  as  well  as  horse 
shows  provide  special  classes  for  their  convenience. 

Pony  for  children.  —  Before  attempting  to  edu- 
cate a  pony  for  the  children,  we  should  be  sure  that 
the  animal  possesses  an  inherent  docile  and  sweet 
temper.  Train  only  such  a  pony  as  takes  kindly 
to  the  children  and  seems  to  enjoy  their  company. 
The  work  of  educating  such  a  pony  will  be  essentially 
the  same  as  outlined  above.  He  should  be  taught 
to  obey  as  suggested  for  the  '^family  horse."  For 
best  results  the  children  should  be  permitted  to 
handle  and  feed  him,  as  he  will  become  attached  to 
whomever  feeds  and  grooms  him. 

TRAIN  THE  HORSE  TO  WALK  FAST 

There  is  no  gait  so  valuable  or  so  much  appre- 
ciated and  so  practically  useful  in  a  horse  as  a  fast 
square  walk.  This  is  as  true  of  the  work  horse  as  of 
the  driving  or  saddle  horse.  And  yet  this  most  prac- 
tical of  all  gaits  is  often  entirely  neglected  in  training 
the  horse  for  his  life-work.  Perhaps  this  is  due,  in 
part  at  least,  to  the  fact  that  we  have  no  figures 
available  as  to  the  rate  of  speed  the  average  work 
horse  attains  at  the  walk.  Consider  the  case  of  a 
man  plowing  with  a  16-inch  plow  and  assuming  that 
it  cuts  on  the  average  its  full  capacity.     To  plow 


92  Training  the  Work  Horse 

one  acre  the  team  must  travel  a  little  over  six  miles. 
Now  if  we  assume  that  the  team  walks  two  miles  an 
hour  for  a  10-hour  day,  or  twenty  miles  in  all,  then 
the  man  will  plow  something  over  three  acres  a  day. 
If  the  team  walks  three  miles  an  hour  for  the  same 
length  of  time,  then  he  will  plow  almost  five  acres  a 
day.  While  it  is  not  possible,  perhaps,  for  one  team 
to  pull  a  16-inch  plow  through  all  kinds  of  soil  at 
the  rate  of  three  miles  an  hour  for  ten  hours  each 
day,  yet  this  serves  to  illustrate  the  value  of  fast 
walking.  Consider  the  case  of  a  man  harrowing  with 
a  12-foot  harrow  and  the  team  traveling  first  at  the 
two-mile  and  then  at  the  three-mile  gait.  As  he 
must  travel  a  little  over  two  thirds  of  a  mile  in  har- 
rowing one  acre,  in  the  former  case  he  will  harrow 
approximately  twenty-nine  acres  a  day,  while  in  the 
latter  case  almost  forty-four  acres  will  be  covered  in 
the  ten  hours.  Or  consider  the  case  of  a  man  culti- 
vating corn  with  a  single-rowed  cultivator  where  the 
rows  are  three  and  one  half  feet  apart  and  the  team 
traveling  at  the  same  gaits  as  before.  As  the  team 
must  travel  approximately  two  and  one  third  miles 
to  cultivate  one  acre,  at  the  two-mile  gait  almost 
eight  and  one  half  acres  will  be  cultivated,  while  at 
the  three-mile  gait  almost  thirteen  acres  will  be  cov- 
ered in  the  ten  hours.  Further,  there  is  nothing, 
perhaps,  that  will  cause  a  road  horse  to  be  driven 
harder  and  kept  so  continually  at  the  trot  as  a  de- 
ficiency in  the  walking  gait. 


A  Good  Walking  Gait  93 

It  is  not  difficult  to  train  the  average  horse  to 
walk  fast  providing  the  proper  methods  are  employed 
early  in  his  training.  From  the  very  beginning  keep 
the  horse  walking  up  to  his  limit.  We  should  never 
allow  him  to  mope  along  at  this  time,  or  the  habit 
will  become  so  strongly  fixed  that  it  will  be  difficult 
to  overcome.  During  the  entire  training  process, 
therefore,  urge  him  to  his  limit.  If  he  breaks  into 
a  trot,  steady  him  but  do  not  allow  him  to  fall  back 
into  a  slow  walk.  Do  not  ask  him  to  walk  too  far 
at  a  time,  but  give  him  practice  each  day.  When 
one  has  a  fast  walking  horse  available  it  is  a  very 
good  plan  to  place  the  green  horse  beside  the  fast 
walker  and  work  them  together,  as  this  aids  in  fixing 
the  habit  of  fast  walking. 

TRAINING   THE    HORSE    FOR   HEAVY   DRAFT 

Because  of  the  desire  of  all  horse  owners  to  have 
their  driving  horse  in  presentable  condition,  much 
time  and  patient  effort  are  spent  in  his  education, 
whereas  the  slow  plodding  draft  horse  that  does  much 
of  his  work  in  the  fields  and  on  back  streets  is  neg- 
lected. Though  his  work  is  very  hard,  he  is  very 
often  left  in  the  hands  of  incompetent  drivers,  who 
either  do  not  know  how  to  lighten  the  animal's  bur- 
den, or  do  not  take  sufficient  interest.  In  the  fields 
we  often  see  plow-horses  dragging  along  the  plowman, 
who  has  the  lines  around  his  body,  in  addition  to  the 


94  Training  the  Work  Horse 

plow,  and  since  they  must  pull  the  former  by  their 
mouths,  he  is  by  far  the  more  fatiguing.  In  like 
manner,  on  the  streets,  we  often  see  the  driver 
perched  upon  the  heavily  loaded  van,  holding  the 
lines  with  extended  arms  and  pulling  on  the  horses' 
mouths  with  all  his  strength,  while  the  already  over- 
loaded animals  tug  away  at  the  load.  On  the  other 
hand,  we  often  see  careless  drivers  who  permit  the 
lines  to  hang,  thus  leaving  the  horses  to  stumble 
along  as  best  they  can  while  at  their  burdensome 
task. 

It  is  not  possible  for  draft  horses  to  accomplish 
their  maximum  usefulness  while  so  driven.  In  the 
first  case  much  energy  is  lost  by  the  constant  pulling 
of  the  driver,  and  in  the  second  case  the  horses  are 
not  held  together  and  hence  lose  energy  pulling 
against  each  other.  Never  pull  at  a  horse's  mouth 
one  ounce  more  than  is  necessary,  as  the  energy  is 
lost,  and  never  drive  him  without  a  light  touch  of 
the  lines  so  you  can  just  feel  the  bit  and  hold  him 
steady.  In  case  the  horse  is  a  lugger  —  one  whose 
mouth  has  been  pulled  on  until  it  has  become  cal- 
loused —  relief  can  often  be  gained  by  dropping  the 
bit  into  a  new  place  or  by  changing  to  a  large  smooth 
rubber  or  leather  covered  bit,  and  some  even  go  so 
far  as  to  recommend  the  bitless  bridle.  The  better 
plan  is  to  put  the  horse  into  competent  hands  and 
then  he  will  be  trained  properly  from  the  beginning, 
and  his  usefulness  increased. 


How  to  Train  for  Heavy  Draft  95 

In  training  the  draft  horse,  extra  care  must  be 
exercised  to  see  that  he  is  in  good  health  and  entirely 
free  from  abrasions  likely  to  give  him  annoyance. 
Thus  if  the  animal  has  a  slight  sore  on  the  shoulder, 
back  or  tail,  the  draft  increases  the  pain  and  he  as- 
sociates the  effort  to  pull  with  the  pain  and  refuses 
to  go  into  the  collar,  and  the  foundation  for  a  balker 
is  laid.  It  is  also  important  to  see  that  the  harness 
fits  perfectly,  and  that  the  pressure  is  equally  dis- 
tributed over  the  bearing  surface  (p.  317).  Hitch 
the  horse  on  the  off  side  of  an  active  even-puller,  one 
that  will  go  into  the  collar  at  the  command  and  stay 
until  the  command  ^Svhoa"  is  given.  Choose  a 
smooth,  hard  road,  avoiding  soft  ground,  and  if  con- 
venient let  the  first  few  loads  be  of  bulky  material,  as 
hay  or  straw.  This  will  serve  to  fix  the  idea  in  the 
horse's  mind  that  he  can  pull  anything  that  is  loose. 

Never  overload  the  draft  horse  in  training.  The 
first  attempt  should  be  made  with  a  load  not  exceed- 
ing 300  pounds.  After  driving  a  short  distance  this 
may  be  doubled.  Do  not  ask  the  young  horse  to 
pull  more  than  his  share  of  1200  or  1500  pounds  un- 
til the  idea  of  going  up  against  the  pressure  of  the 
collar  has  become  thoroughly  fixed  in  his  mind. 

Never  train  the  young  draft  horse  by  hitching 
to  a  dragging  load,  as  a  plow,  harrow,  drag  or  wagon 
on  soft  earth.  Such  loads  require  constant  pres- 
sure and  serve  to  discourage  the  animal.  In  the 
case  of  the  low  hitch  the  pressure  on  the  shoulders 


96  Training  the  Work  Horse 

and  back  is  at  a  disadvantage ;  he  cannot  see  the 
results  of  his  efforts ;  the  constant  pressure  is  hkely 
to  cause  sore  shoulders  and  in  the  case  of  the  plow 
the  horse  may  be  severely  jerked  in  case  the  plow 
strikes  a  stone  or  root,  all  of  which  serves  to  discour- 
age and  to  break  his  spirit  rather  than  to  encourage 
and  inculcate  the  idea  that  he  can  draw  anything. 

As  the  training  continues,  the  driver  should  adopt 
signals  to  warn  the  horse  of  approaching  difficulties, 
and  when  he  should  get  ready  for  superb  effort. 
Excellent  drivers  use  different  terms  ;  some  whistle, 
some  cluck  and  some  give  one  command,  others 
another,  any  of  which  will  serve  if  properly  used, 
but  best  usage  prefers  the  command  ^^ steady" 
given  in  a  rather  deep  tone.  At  this  command  the 
horses  square  themselves  and  make  ready  for  the 
effort.  The  draft  horse  should  be  trained  so  as 
gradually  to  go  into  the  collar  and  stay  there  until 
commanded  to  cease,  as  it  is  the  long  swinging  pull 
that  brings  the  load.  There  are  many  methods  of 
teaching  this.  When  at  all  convenient,  a  good  way 
to  train  the  horses  to  make  long  steady  pulls  is  to 
hitch  them  to  a  freight  car.  It  requires  a  constant 
pull  to  start  the  car  and  the  movement  is  very  slow 
at  first  but  gradually  comes  faster  and  easier,  which 
gives  the  horse  much  encouragement.  This  requires 
patient  and  cool-headed  effort  on  the  part  of  the 
driver,  but  horses  thus  educated  are  of  great  service 
to  mankind. 


The  Lead  Horse  97 

TRAINING   HORSES    TO    MAKE    LEADERS 

The  term  "leader"  is  used  in  two  ways;  first  it 
signifies  the  near  or  ''lead"  horse  of  a  team,  and 
second  it  is  applied  to  the  front  or  leading  team 
when  two  or  more  teams  are  driven  tandem,  one  fol- 
lowing the  other.  The  former  is  employed  largely 
on  the  farm,  the  latter  in  the  ^large  cities.  To  be 
efficient  in  either  position  requires  extra  training. 
On  the  farm  the  driver's  hands  are  often  needed  to 
operate  the  machinery  and  he  is  obliged,  therefore, 
to  rely  on  one  line,  which  is  attached  to  the  near 
horse,  and  on  commands,  to  drive  his  team.  The  off 
horse  is  attached  to  the  near  one  by  means  of  a  tie- 
strap  and  crowding-stick  in  such  a  way  that  the 
one  is  obliged  to  keep  even  with  the  other.  Since 
the  driver  must  rely,  in  part  at  least,  upon  spoken 
words  to  convey  his  desires,  the  leader  must  be  taught 
these  extra  signals  and  commands,  such  as  ''haw" 
and  "gee."  In  the  large  cities  the  merchants  find 
it  more  profitable  to  use  heavy  vans  drawn  by  two 
or  more  teams  and  driven  by  one  man.  Since  the 
leading  team  is  so  far  forward  that  the  driver  cannot 
control  it  readily  with  the  lines,  he  is  also  obliged  to 
rely,  in  part,  on  signals  and  commands,  the  principal 
one,  in  addition  to  those  above,  being  "yea." 

Teaching  the  commands  "haw,'^  "^ee"  and  "yea.'' 
—  When  we  wish  the  team  to  turn  to  the  left,  the 
command  "haw"  is  given,  or  a  steady  pull  is  made 


98  Training  the  Work  Horse 

on  the  lead  line.  When  it  is  desired  to  turn  to  the 
right,  the  command  ''gee"  is  given,  or  a  slight  jerk 
is  made  on  the  line.  These  terms  are  best  taught 
by  providing  a  pair  of  lines  and  placing  them  on  the 
lead  horse  and  proceeding  as  sugge^ed  for  teaching 
him  to  turn  to  the  left  and  right  (p.  65),  giving  the 
command  ''haw,"  followed  by  a  steady  pull  on  the 
near  hne  as  we  turn  to  the  left,  and  the  command 
'^gee,"  followed  by  a  slight  jerk  on  the  off  line  as  we 
turn  to  the  right.  Caress  and  repeat  until  the  horse 
will  turn  either  way  at  the  command  or  at  the  mo- 
tion of  the  line. 

Because  of  the  position  of  the  lines  on  the  leading 
team,  when  driving  two  or  more  teams  the  driver  is 
unable  often  to  square  the  horses  on  turning,  par- 
ticularly when  six  or  more  horses  are  used,  as  the 
slack  in  the  lines  is  so  great  that  he  cannot  take 
it  up  fast  enough;  therefore,  when  the  leading  team 
has  gone  far  enough  and  he  wishes  it  to  square  itself 
and  go  forward,  he  gives  the  command  "yea."  This 
command  should  be  taught  to  the  leading  team  ac- 
cording to  the  suggestions  outlined  above  for  teach- 
ing "haw"  and  "gee,"  by  employing  long  lines  and 
a  long  whip.  When  the  horse  has  turned  sufficiently, 
he  is  squared  about  with  the  long  whip,  immediately 
followed  by  the  command  "yea."  These  multiple 
teams  are  guided  to  the  left  and  right  by  the  com- 
mands, by  the  movement  of  the  lines,  or  other 
signals,  each  driver  having  a  code  of  his  own. 


The   Words  to  use  in  Training  99 

CHOOSING   A    VOCABULARY   FOR   THE   WORK   HORSE 

The  work  horse  should  be  taught  few  words  and 
each  should  stand  for  a  definite  action.  It  would 
be  of  advantage  if  a  standard  vocabulary  could  be 
adopted  and  used  all  over  the  land,  especially  where 
horses  pass  from  one  owner  or  driver  to  another. 
As  it  is  now  with  each  driver  using  commands  and 
signals  of  his  own,  the  horse  is  greatly  confused  when- 
ever there  is  a  change  of  drivers.  In  fact,  if  all 
drivers  would  agree  to  use  a  few  of  the  more  common 
commands  for  the  same  actions,  the  situation  would 
be  greatly  relieved.  Thus  far  we  have  suggested 
six  words  for  general  use;  they  are  short,  easily  taught, 
and  answer  most  conditions,  at  least  for  the  work 
horse.  Any  teachable  horse  can  be  taught  to  obey 
all  six  commands  in  as  many  days  if  a  little  patient 
effort  is  put  into  the  training. 

The  six  words  that  have  been  recommended  for 
general  use,  and  the  actions  they  stand  for,  are  as 
follows  :  — 

^^Whoa"  means  to  stop  and  stand  still.  This  is 
the  most  important  word  of  the  group  and  should 
never  be  spoken  except  when  the  above  action  is 
desired,  and  the  horse  should  understand  that  he 
is  to  remain  quiet  until  commanded  to  move.  Do 
not  use  the  word  to  slacken  the  animal's  speed, 
or  to  calm  him,  or  when  you  wish  him  to  move 
backward. 


100  Training  the  Work  Horse 

'^Get  up"  means  to  move  forward.  The  tone 
should  be  modified  for  prompt  or  dehberate  action. 
This  term  should  be  used  for  increasing  the  speed. 
There  is  no  use  of  employing  the  words  ''hurry" 
and  ''faster"  for  the  draft  horse.  There  is  no  ob- 
jection to  the  "cluck"  or  "chirrup,"  but  if  they  are 
to  be  used,  the  horse  should  be  trained  to  obey  them 
promptly. 

"Back"  means  to  move  backward.  Because  of 
the  great  amount  of  backing  that  must  be  done,  this 
is  likewise  an  important  word  and  the  horse  should 
be  taught  its  significance.  Do  not  use  this  word  to 
slacken  or  stop  the  animal.  Do  not  use  "whoa- 
back"  or  "back-up," — simply  "back."  The  com- 
mand may  be  followed  by  a  see-saw  motion  of  the 
lines,  but  in  no  case  jerk  or  yank  on  the  animal's 
mouth. 

"Steady"  means  to  give  attention  to  the  work  in 
hand.  It  appUes  to  a  variety  of  conditions;  thus, 
when  the  horse  is  going  fast  and  we  wish  him  to  slow 
down,  this  term  is  used  ;  or  when  the  animal  becomes 
frightened  and  we  wish  him  to  calm ;  or  when  we 
wish  to  warn  him  of  approaching  danger  or  difficulty 
we  employ  this  command,  but  the  voice  should  be 
modified  to  meet  the  attendant  condition  (p.  80). 

"Haw"  means  to  turn  to  the  left,  and  is  preferred 
to  the  command  "left." 

"Gee"  means  to  turn  to  the  right,  and  is  preferred 
to  the  command  "  right," 


How  to  Handle  the  Feet 


101 


GENTLING   THE    FEET   FOR   SHOEING 

To  avoid  bad  habits  at  shoeing,  the  horse's  feet 
should  be  handled  before  going  to  the  shop.     A  few 


Fig.  22.  —  First  position  in  picking  up  a  front  foot. 

horse  owners  impose  upon  the  blacksmith  by  sending 
their  horse  to  the  shop  to  have  him  shod  in  order  to 
assist    them   in   training.     The   blacksmith    cannot 


102 


Training  the  Work  Horse 


take  the  time  properly  to  train  the  horse.  The  sur- 
roundings, the  noise  and  the  flying  sparks  are  new 
to  the  horse  and  he  becomes  excited.     Under  such 


Fig.  23.  —  Second  position  in  picking  up  a  front  foot. 

conditions,  when  the  blacksmith  picks  up  the  foot 
for  the  first  time,  the  horse  struggles,  but  since  he 
was  sent  there  to  be  shod  the  blacksmith  retains  his 
hold  and  after  much  excitement  succeeds  in  shoeing 


Gentling  the  Feet 


103 


him,  but  not  until  the  animal  has  acquired  a  general 
dislike  to  having  his  feet  handled,  and  a  particular 
hatred  of  blacksmith  shops.  This  excitement  and 
distrust  can  be  avoided  by  a  little  patient  effort  in 


Fig.  24.  —  First  position  in  picking  up  a  rear  foot. 

educating  the  horse  to  stand  while  his  feet  are  being 
handled. 

The  best  way  to  pick  up  the  foot  is  to  run  your 
left  hand  down  over  the  shoulder,  the  fore  arm, 
grasping,  say,  the  near  foreleg  just  above  the  knee, 
and  to  the  rear  (Fig.  22),  and  pinching  the  flexor  mus- 
cle, which  stimulates  the  horse  to  pick  up  the  foot. 


104 


Training  the  Work  Horse 


At  the  same  time  press  the  point  of  the  shoulder 
with  your  left  elbow,  thus  throwing  the  weight  from 
the  near  to  the  off  leg,  and  reach  down  and  pick  up 


Fig.  25.  —  Second  position  in  picking  up  a  rear  foot. 

the  horse's  foot  with  the  right  hand.  Hold  the  foot 
in  the  right  hand  (Fig.  23)  for  a  moment,  and  then 
put  it  down  carefully.  Never  drop  the  foot,  but  put 
it  down.     Pick  it  up  again  as  before  by  the  toe  and 


Handling  the  Hind  Feet 


105 


hold  with  the  right  hand.  With  the  left  hand  reach 
over,  rub  the  quarter  and  pinch  the  flexor  muscle 
just  above  the  hock  (Fig.  24).     Gently  lower  the 


Fig.  26.  —  Third  position  in  picking  up  a  rear  foot. 

front  foot  with  the  right  hand  and  reach  down  and 
pick  up  the  hind  foot  (Fig.  25).  Hold  for  a  moment 
(Fig.  26)  then  gently  place  on  the  ground.  Repeat 
the  same  process  on  the  off  side.     Work  only  as 


106  Training  the  Work  Horse 

fast  as  the  horse  understands.  If  he  becomes  ex- 
cited and  resists,  do  not  attempt  to  hold  him,  but  let 
him  have  his  foot  and  begin  all  over  again. 

In  handling  the  feet  never  allow  the  horse  to  bear 
his  weight  on  you,  as  he  is  big  and  strong  enough  to 
hold  himself,  and  will  do  so  when  he  understands  what 
is  expected  of  him.  After  handling  the  feet  once 
it  is  a  good  plan  to  take  the  hammer  and  gently  tap 
the  hoofs  as  in  shoeing.  This  gentling  requires  per- 
haps fifteen  minutes,  and  after  going  through  the 
course  the  horse  will  never  be  any  trouble  to  shoe 
(p.  300). 

TRAINING   TO   MOUNT 

Since  the  work  horse  is  seldom  worked  under  the 
saddle,  and  not  much  time  or  effort  is  spent  in  train- 
ing him  to  mount,  a  short  and  quick  method  is  given 
here,  though  the  matter  is  taken  up  at  some  length, 
and  modern  methods  are  given,  in  the  chapter  on 
training  the  saddle  horse  (p.  155).  In  training  a 
horse  to  mount  be  very  careful  that  he  does  not  suc- 
ceed in  dislodging  you,  for  if  once  he  succeeds  in  get- 
ting you  off  his  back,  it  will  take  some  time  to  con- 
vince him  that  he  cannot  do  it  again.  The  best 
time  to  take  the  horse  is  after  he  has  been  exercised 
vigorously  and  while  tired.  The  best  place  is  on 
soft  ground,  where  the  horse  can  hurt  neither  him- 
self nor  the  rider.  Put  on  the  saddle  as  suggested 
in  harnessing  (p. 72),  and  make  sure  that  it  is  fastened 


Mounting  107 

securely.  Have  an  assistant  hold  the  horse's  head 
while  you  mount.  To  steady  the  animal,  some  recom- 
mend the  use  of  the  noose-  or  rope-  twitch  (p.  197). 
The  horse  may  rear,  bound  forward,  buck  or  lie  down. 
In  any  event,  the  rider  must  stay  on,  remembering 
that  the  horse  is  already  tired  and  on  soft  ground. 
It  is  often  an  endurance  trial,  and  this  is  the  reason 
why  one  must  have  the  horse  tired  to  begin  with,  for 
otherwise  he  may  be  able  to  bound  and  buck  till 
the  rider  is  so  exhausted  that  he  can  no  longer  main- 
tain his  position  on  the  saddle.  When  the  horse 
calms,  caress  him  and  repeat  until  he  stands  quietly 
while  you  mount. 


CHAPTER   IV 

TRAINING   THE   TROTTER,   COACHER  AND 

ROADSTER 

Training  horses  for  speed,  high  action  and  style 
requires  much  patient  effort,  unUmited  tact  and  na- 
tive abihty.  No  set  of  rules  can  be  laid  down  that 
will  apply  in  every  case.  No  two  horses  are  of  the 
same  disposition  or  temperament,  and  the  successful 
training  of  each  is  a  law  unto  itself.  While  study 
and  the  experience  of  others  may  serve  to  increase 
one's  skill,  he  will  never  be  reheved  of  the  necessity 
of  using  his  own  resources.  The  method  is  still 
further  complicated  by  the  fact  that  while  there  are 
many  horses  that  have  a  tendency  to  show  speed, 
action  and  style,  and  which  can  undoubtedly  have 
the  same  very  much  improved  by  the  adoption  of  a 
proper  system  of  training,  there  are  a  great  many 
others  without  this  inclination  and  which  it  is  hopeless 
to  try  to  develop  to  a  degree  that  makes  it  worth  while 
spending  time  and  effort  on  them.  Since  the  method 
employed  must  be  modified  to  meet  the  needs  of  the 
animal  and  the  convenience  of  the  trainer,  only  a 
general  plan  is  given,  which  applies  especially  to  the 
trotter,  but  which  is  to  be  modified  as  circumstance 

108 


When  to  Begin  Training  109 

demands.     The  plan  is  followed  by  a  discussion  of 
factors  important  in  training  horses  of  all  classes. 


AGE    TQ  BEGIN   TRAINING 

There  is  much  difference  of  opinion  among  horse- 
men as  to  the  proper  age  to  begin  training  the  colt 
in  order  to  develop  maximum  speed,  style  and  ac- 
tion. Some  say  to  begin  before  the  colt  is  born, 
which,  of  course,  would  lead  to  a  discussion  of  breed- 
ing, while  others  say  that  the  youngster  should  be 
well  developed  before  his  training  begins,  particu- 
larly when  high  action  is  desired,  as  in  the  coach 
horse.  There  is  a  general  feeling,  however,  espe- 
cially in  the  case  of  the  trotting  horse,  that  the  train- 
ing cannot  begin  too  soon,  especially  if  the  animal 
is  to  be  raced  while  young.  Some  excellent  horse- 
men are  strong  in  their  belief  that  the  prejudice 
against  early  training  .in  the  past  has  hindered  the 
progress  in  breeding  horses  for  speed.  The  fact 
that  early  breeders  were  obliged  to  wait  many  years 
for  returns  from  the  capital  invested,  no  doubt  di- 
verted attention  from  breeding  trotters.  Horse 
breeders  desire  quick  returns,  hence  they  breed  ani- 
mals that  trot  young.  There  can  be  no  doubt  that 
the  younger  a  trotter  makes  a  good  record  and  a 
coacher  shows  his  style  and  action,  the  quicker  the 
breeder  can  turn  his  investment  into  cash  and  if 
they  go  wrong  at  two  years  old,  they  are  a  cheaper 


110     Training  the  Trotter,  Coacher  and  Roadster 

failure  than  if  they  go  wrong  at  five  or  six  years  of 
age. 

The  effect  of  breeding  for  early  maturity  and  early 
training  upon  the  future  usefulness  of  the  horse  is  a 
much  discussed  question.  Formerly  many  breeders 
were  of  the  opinion  that  such  practice  had  a  tendency 
to  weaken  the  horse,  while  others  were  equally  as 
certain  that  both  early  maturity  and  early  training 
better  fitted  the  animal  to  perform  his  life-w^ork. 
Volumes  have  been  written  upon  this  particular 
question.  As  a  rule  at  the  present  time,  practical 
men  favor  early  maturity,  though  they  agree  that 
early  training  calls  for  much  more  tact  and  judgment 
than  the  training  of  a  mature  animal.  They  are 
strong  in  the  conviction  that  the  colt  can  be  trained 
for  speed  from  his  infancy  and  that  such  training,  if 
judiciously  given,  will  prove  a  great  and  lasting  bene- 
fit and  make  him  a  better  aged  horse. 

METHOD    OF   TRAINING    WHILE    YOUNG 

The  youngster  should  be  trained  much  as  sug- 
gested in  the  discussion  on  training  the  foal  (p.  26). 
With  the  lighter  and  more  active  types  of  horses  it 
is  very  important  that  they  be  handled  and  taught 
to  lead  with  halter  and  drive  with  lines  as  suggested. 
It  is  essential  that  the  colt's  entire  confidence  be  se- 
cured and  maintained,  otherwise  the  trainer  must 
work  at  a  disadvantage.     To  be  successful,  a  mutual 


Small  Training  Track  111 

understanding  must  exist  between  the  animal  and 
his  master. 

The  training  yard.  —  Since  the  youngsters  are  to 
be  put  into  training  very  early  in  life,  ample  provision 
should  be  made  for  their  accommodation.  A  small 
training  track  is  almost  indispensable  for  the  young 
trotters,  and  a  yard  or  track  for  the  coachers.  The 
small  track  should  be  laid  off  oblong  similar  to  a 
race  track,  with  proportionate  turns  and  stretches. 
The  length  over  all  should  not  be  less  than  140  feet 
and  the  width  not  less  than  65  feet.  The  track  it- 
self should  be  10  to  12  feet  wide  and  if  convenient 
should  be  covered  so  as  to  be  of  service  the  year 
around.  It  should  be  made  of  earth  good  for  the 
feet  and  should  be  kept  deep  and  soft.  At  the  turns, 
the  earth  should  be  thrown  up  two  or  three  inches  to 
the  foot,  to  facilitate  turning. 

The  construction  of  the  inside  fence  requires 
special  consideration.  The  posts  should  be  few  in 
number  so  as  not  to  obstruct  the  view  of  the  colt's 
legs  when  in  action.  They  should  be  inclined  toward 
the  track  in  such  a  manner  that  the  inner  rail  will 
prevent  the  colt  from  injuring  his  legs  by  striking 
the  fence.  As  a  further  precaution  the  posts  and 
railing  should  be  slightly  rounded  by  removing  the 
sharp  edges.  This  inner  rail,  which  should  be  about 
six  inches  wide  and  of  good  material,  should  be  placed 
about  as  high  as  the  yearling's  body.  There  is  no 
need  of  a  wheel  board  as  the  little  track  is  not  in- 


112     Training  the  Trotter ,  Coacher  and  Roadster 

tended  for  vehicles,  but  simply  for  the  exercise  of  the 
youngster  before  hitching. 

Plan  for  training  the  young  colt.  —  Very  early  in 
the  colt's  life  one  should  decide  upon  a  method  of 
procedure.  This  should  include  the  daily  routine 
work  as  well  as  a  consideration  of  the  time  it  is 
desired  to  race  him,  since  this  will  modify  the  method, 
as  racing  at  two  years  old  calls  for  a  different  plan 
of  preparation  than  if  not  raced  until  later  in  life. 
Thus  the  daily  feeding,  watering,  grooming  and  exer- 
cising should  be  so  arranged  as  to  meet  the  conditions. 
The  importance  of  an  orderly  procedure  in  all  that 
pertains  to  the  care  and  management  of  the  colt  in 
training  for  speed  or  high  action  cannot  be  over- 
estimated. He  must  be  so  skillfully  handled  as  to 
bring  out  the  best  there  is  in  him. 

The  colt  should  be  fed  regularly  and  up  to  the 
limit  of  his  appetite  from  the  beginning,  in  order  to 
keep  him  strong.  It  is  not  possible  to  get  the  colt, 
under  fifteen  months  of  age,  too  fat  if  properly 
groomed  and  exercised.  He  should  be  provided 
with  fresh  water  at  all  times,  in  order  that  he  may 
not  drink  to  excess  (p.  355). 

Grooming  the  colt  requires  special  attention. 
The  colt  should  be  thoroughly  cleaned  each  morning, 
giving  extra  care  to  the  legs  and  feet.  The  hoofs 
should  be  cleaned  twice  daily  by  removing  all  for- 
eign materials  that  have  collected  in  the  clefts  and 
about  the  frog.     They  should  be  kept  level  and  so 


Training  while  Young  113 

trimmed  as  to  preserve  the  natural  attitude  of  the 
colt's  legs,  otherwise  he  is  likely  to  develop  unsound 
legs.  This  trimming  should  be  done  with  a  rasp 
(p.  357). 

In  order  to  develop  strength  and  endurance,  it  is 
important  that  the  colt  be  exercised  regularly.  This 
will  increase  his  heart  and  lung  capacity  and  harden 
his  muscles  so  that  he  will  be  able  to  endure  the 
hardships  of  later  life.  In  exercising  the  colt  to 
develop  speed  and  action,  extra  attention  must  be 
given  to  the  protection  of  the  legs.  At  any  time 
the  youngster  may  become  excited  and  strike  him- 
self, often  inflicting  serious  injury.  To  avoid  this 
the  colt's  legs  should  be  well  protected  by  shin-  and 
quarter-boots,  properly  fitted  so  that  they  will  not 
chafe  the  legs  (p.  375).  Such  boots  can  be  obtained 
at  the  harness  shop  (Fig.  27). 

Exercising  on  small  track.  —  When  all  is  in  readi- 
ness, lead  the  colt  around  the  track  a  few  times  un- 
til he  becomes  familiar  with  it,  then  unsnap  the 
lead-strap  and  follow  him  around  several  times. 
Do  not  hurry,  but  give  him  time  to  become  recon- 
ciled to  his  new  surroundings.  On  the  other  hand 
if  he  wants  to  run,  let  him  do  so  at  first,  or  until  he 
has  had  his  frolic;  then  endeavor  to  keep  him  at  a 
trot  as  much  as  possible.  The  colt  should  now  be 
taught  to  use  the  miniature  track.  Tliis  can  best 
be  accomplished  by  two  men,  provided  with  whips 
to  which  are  attached  long  lashes.     One  man  should 


114     Training  the  Trotter,  Coacher  and  Roadster 


stand  near  either  end  inside  the  inclosure  and  by 
holding  up  the  whip  teach  the  colt  to  go  around  the 


Fig.  27.  —  Boots  for  protecting  the  feet  and  legs  of  the  horse.  1,  Quarter- 
boot  ;  2,  hind  leg  scalping-boot ;  3,  shin-and-ankle-boot ;  4.  knee-boot ; 
5,  front  leg  ankle-boot ;  6,  hock-and-hind-leg-boot ;  7,  knee-and-arm- 
boot. 


Training  on  the  Small  Track  115 

turns  rather  slowly,  and  by  cracking  the  whip  urge 
him  through  the  stretches.  After  the  colt  under- 
stands what  is  wanted  do  not  allow  him  to  run ;  if 
he  should  break  go  toward  the  rail  and  hold  the  whip 
out  before  him,  and  if  he  refuses  to  slow  down  to  a 
trot  slash  it  across  the  track  in  front  of  him,  exer- 
cising due  care  never  to  strike  him  about  the  head. 
By  using  a  little  tact  the  colt  will  soon  understand 
what  is  expected  of  him  and  you  will  be  surprised 
to  see  how  he  will  take  the  turns  slowly  but  go 
through  the  stretches  up  to  his  limit. 

After  a  few  rounds,  with  two  or  three  sharp  brushes 
through  the  stretches,  let  him  stop  to  rest  if  he  wishes. 
This  affords  a  good  opportunity  to  caress  him  in  order 
to  assure  him  that  he  is  doing  as  we  wish.  After 
a  moment  start  the  colt  around  the  other  way.  Do 
not  permit  him  to  make  the  turns  always  in  one 
direction,  as  this  has  a  tendency  to  make  his  action 
irregular.  Care  must  be  exercised  in  starting  the 
colt  or  in  urging  him,  to  prevent  scaring  him.  Teach 
him  to  respond  to  the  crack  of  the  whip  and  do  not 
''shoo"  him  or  make  any  unnecessary  noise  to  get 
him  to  show  his  action. 

Do  not  tire  the  colt.  —  About  fifteen  minutes  is 
sufficient  time  to  keep  the  youngster  on  the  track. 
The  object  sought  is  to  create  in  the  colt's  mind  a 
love  for  the  exercise,  rather  than  a  dread  or  a  dis- 
dain for  the  track.  This  can  be  done  by  permitting 
the  colt  some  freedom  and  by  caressing  him  often 


116     Training  the  Trotter,  Coacher  and  Roadster 

to  assure  him  he  is  doing  well.  At  this  age  his  mind 
is  receptive,  the  trotting  habit  is  easily  fixed  and  at 
the  same  time  he  acquires  speed  and  steadiness  of 
action.  To  overwork  the  colt  at  this  age  not  only 
stops  the  progress  of  his  education,  but  he  really 
goes  back  in  that  he  loses  directness  of  action  so 
essential  to  horses  of  speed  and  high  action. 

While  the  colt  should  not  be  exercised  too  long  at 
a  time,  he  may  be  worked  safely  two  times  a  day  if 
convenient.  In  the  beginning  it  is  a  much  better 
plan  to  give  him  two  fifteen  minute  periods,  one  in 
the  morning  and  the  other  in  the  afternoon,  than  to 
work  him  for  one  half-hour  period.  As  the  colt  ac- 
quires strength  and  endurance  the  length  of  the  exer- 
cise period  may  be  increased  gradually,  but  always 
keep  on  the  safe  side  and  underwork  rather  than  over- 
work the  youngster. 

It  is  a  good  plan  to  let  the  colt  rest  two  or  three 
days  each  month  and  if  convenient  to  turn  him  to 
pasture  where  he  can  have  perfect  freedom.  This 
serves  to  break  the  monotony  of  the  daily  exercise 
and  freshens  him.  After  a  few  days  of  such  freedom 
he  will  take  his  exercise  more  keenly  and  with  greater 
vim.  The  few  days  of  idleness  seem  to  stimulate 
a  desire  for  the  daily  exercise  so  that  the  colt  will 
gain  faster  than  if  he  be  worked  continuously. 

During  these  early  exercising  periods  the  colt 
should  be  studied  critically.  Note  carefully  the 
carriage  of  the  head,  as  this  will  be  of  advantage  in 


Advantages  of  Training  while  Young        117 

adjusting  the  check-rein  when  put  in  harness.  Ob- 
serve his  natural  action  and  balance  that  you  may 
know  how  to  treat  him  in  the  future.  The  gait  must 
receive  much  careful  attention  and  any  hitching  or 
roughness  in  the  action  be  immediately  remedied.  In 
order  to  develop  maximum  speed  and  action,  this 
early  training  calls  for  coolness,  watchfulness  and 
tact.  A  study  of  the  peculiarities  of  the  individual 
colt  is  a  very  important  part  of  the  trainer's  work. 
If  the  colt  is  thrifty  and  strong,  he  may  be  worked 
in  some  such  manner  until  about  fifteen  months  of 
age,  when  he  should  be  trained  to  harness.  While 
such  work  requires  time  and  calls  for  patient  effort 
and  native  ability,  if  properly  conducted  it  will  bring 
out  many  peculiarities  of  the  colt.  In  the  first  place 
it  will  indicate  his  possibilities,  and  one  can  form  a 
fair  idea  of  the  kind  of  a  horse  he  is  going  to  make ; 
or  at  least,  if  there  is  nothing  in  him  he  will  have 
demonstrated  the  fact  long  before  he  is  fifteen  months 
of  age.  In  the  second  place,  it  will  bring  out  his 
natural  carriage  and  action.  Up  to  this  age  he  must 
rely  upon  himself,  and  such  action  as  he  possesses  he 
has  acquired  without  assistance,  and  if  studied  care- 
fully one  can  form  an  idea  of  how  properly  to  balance 
him.  Furthermore,  early  training  develops  a  good 
disposition.  The  colt  grows  up  under  control  and 
never  knows  absolute  freedom.  Before  he  is  strong 
enough  to  make  stubborn  resistance,  he  is  taught 
that  there  is  nothing  to  resist  and  hence  he  never 


118     Training  the  Trotter,  Coacher  and  Roadster 

feels  subjection.  This  serves  to  keep  him  in  good 
spirit  and  he  develops  an  even  temper.  On  the  other 
hand,  if  the  colt  is  given  his  freedom  until  quite 
mature,  he  resents  control  and  often  becomes  so 
headstrong  that  he  may  be  physically  and  mentally 
ruined  in  training. 


EARLY   TRAINING   IN   HARNESS 

The  colt  may  be  taught  the  uses  of  the  bit  and 
made  familiar  with  the  pressure  of  the  harness  as 
suggested  for  training  the  work  horse  (pp.  56  to  84). 
It  is  important  to  have  him  thoroughly  obedient  to 
the  lines  and  perfectly  accustomed  to  the  harness 
before  hitching. 

In  order  to  improve  the  action .  and  to  increase  the 
steadiness  of  the  gait  many  excellent  horsemen  recom- 
mend hitching  double  the  first  few  times.  They 
think  that  the  training-cart  with  its  long  shafts  and 
constant  jarring  motion  interferes  with  the  action, 
and  throws  the  colt  out  of  balance.  On  the  other 
hand,  many  trainers  use  nothing  but  the  cart  and 
experience  no  more  difficulty  in  balancing  than  those 
who  use  the  double  rig. 

In  case  the  colt  is  worked  double,  procure  a  vehicle 
of  light  construction  and  hitch  by  the  side  of  a  gen- 
tle, reliable  and  well-balanced  horse.  The  first  few 
lessons  in  harness  must  be  short.  Drive  the  team 
through  the  stretches  of  the  track,  or  over  a  soft 


First  Training  in  Harness  119 

earth  road,  at  an  easy,  steady  gait  for  about  fifteen 
minutes,  then  take  the  youngster  out  of  the  harness. 
Continue  these  lessons  twice  daily,  morning  and  after- 
noon, for  some  time,  gradually  increasing  the  work, 
and  hitching  the  colt  alternately  each  time  on  either 
side  of  the  staid  mate.  This  part  of  the  training  is 
not  to  increase  the  speed,  but  to  educate  the  colt  to 
harness  and  at  the  same  time  to  improve  his  action. 

The  colt  is  now  ready  for  work  in  single  harness. 
For  the  first  few  lessons  in  single  harness,  many  pre- 
fer to  use  the  skeleton  wagon,  as  it  interferes  less 
with  the  action.  After  a  short  drive  by  the  side  of 
the  staid  mate,  quietly  take  the  colt  out  of  the  double 
rig  and  hitch  to  the  single  vehicle.  Drive  at  an  easy 
and  steady  gait  for  about  fifteen  minutes.  Con- 
tinue this  work  until  the  colt  is  thoroughly  familiar 
with  the  vehicle  and  can  be  depended  on  to  obey 
the  voice  and  lines.  Now  he  may  be  hitched  to  the 
cart  or  sulky  with  little  or  no  risk. 

The  amount  and  kind  of  training  will  depend  on 
the  object  sought.  If  the  colt  is  to  trot  as  a  yearling, 
he  will  require  work  twice  daily.  This  work  should 
be  short  but  sharp  and  speed-making.  Colts  and 
yearlings  require  little  or  no  jogging.  Drive  the 
youngster  a  good  fast  gait  for  about  200  yards. 
Turn  him  slowly,  giving  ample  time  to  catch  his 
breath  and  let  him  go  back  a  little  faster.  After 
going  about  the  same  distance,  slow  down,  turn 
slowly  as  before  and  drive  him  up  the  stretch  again, 


120     Training  the  Trotter,  Coacher  and  Roadster 

this  time  gradually  increasing  the  speed  until  he  is 
going  his  limit  at  the  end  of  the  200  yard  brush. 
After  this  sharp  brush  give  him  a  little  longer  to 
breathe  than  before.  Now  let  him  out  and  drive 
back,  carrying  him  to  his  limit  again.  This  will  be 
sufficient  work  for  the  morning  exercise.  Take  the 
youngster  to  the  stable,  remove  the  harness  and 
boots,  give  him  a  very  little  water  to  drink,  rub  him 
off  lightly  and  then  walk  him  a  few  minutes.  This 
part  of  the  work  should  be  done  in  a  stable,  shed  or 
protected  area  free  from  cold  drafts.  After  w^alking, 
place  him  in  a  well-ventilated  box-stall  and  leave 
him  undisturbed  so  that  he  may  lie  down  and  rest. 

Since  young  animals  recover  from  the  effect  of 
work  more  rapidly  than  older  ones,  the  former  may 
be  exercised  twice  daily  with  little  or  no  risk  until 
two  years  of  age,  providing,  of  course,  good  judgment 
is  used  and  the  work  never  overdone.  In  the  after- 
noon put  the  colt  through  the  same  course  as  sug- 
gested for  the  morning,  which  will  provide  sufficient 
exercise  for  the  day.  In  this  early  training  much 
care  must  be  exercised  not  to  overwork  the  colt. 
The  first  sign  of  track-weariness  should  be  followed 
by  a  few  days'  rest. 

Continue  the  work  daily  as  outlined,  with  little 
or  no  increase  for  the  first  two  weeks,  after  which  the 
number  of  brushes  and  the  speed  may  be  increased 
gradually.  With  young  colts  it  is  thought  best  not 
to  increase  the  length  of    the  brushes,  as  they  will 


Study  the  Horse  121 

prove  too  fatiguing.  It  is  a  good  plan  to  continue 
the  practice  of  giving  the  colt  two  or  three  days'  rest 
each  month  (p.  116). 

Young  animals  do  not  need  to  be  blanketed, 
sweated,  scraped  or  physicked.  They  do  not  take  on 
fat  internally  like  mature  ones  and  do  not  need  to 
be  reduced.  Such  practice  has  a  tendency  to  stop 
growth  and  muscular  development,  whereas  the 
youngsters  require  conditions  favorable  to  physical 
development  in  order  that  they  may  increase  in 
strength  and  endurance. 

Study  individual  peculiarities.  —  The  one  fixed 
rule,  that  applies  in  training  all  horses,  is  to  study 
each  individual  critically.  It  is  this  one  character- 
istic more  than  any  other  that  makes  successful 
horse  trainers.  At  this  time  the  colt  is  begin- 
ning his  track  work  and  it  is  of  the  utmost  impor- 
tance that  he  be  directed  properly.  The  bitting, 
checking,  harnessing  and  shoeing  are  all  important 
factors  in  balancing  and  gaiting.  If  the  youngster 
is  not  traveling  perfectly  square,  if  there  is  any  rough- 
ness in  his  gait,  or  if  he  is  in  any  way  out  of  balance, 
he  is  not  developing  that  smooth,  steady  and  direct 
action  so  essential  in  the  attainment  of  rnaximum 
speed  or  stylish  action.  Study  the  individual  and 
adopt  such  methods  as  will  keep  him  going  true, 
smootn  and  level.  Never  drive  him  faster  than  he 
can  go  squarely,  and  he  will  develop  speed  and  action 
if  it  is  in  him. 


122     Training  the  Trotter,  Coacher  and  Roadster 


The  shoeing  of  each  colt  requires  special  attention. 
While  much  has  been  written  on  shoeing  and  weight- 
ing to  improve  action,  experienced  horsemen  state 
that  each  colt  is  an  experiment  and  that  no  rule  can 
be  made  that  will  apply  to  all.  To  be  successful, 
therefore,   one  must  make  a  careful  study  of  the 

needs  of  each  individual.  If 
toe-weights  improve  the  ac- 
tion, apply  them;  if  not,  dis- 
regard their  use  (Fig.  28). 
It  is  often  necessary  to  shoe 
behind  very  early  in  order  to 
boot  properly.  In  such  cases 
a  very  light  shoe  or  plate 
should  be  used.  Much  care 
must  be  exercised  in  fitting 
the  shoe,  for  should  the  colt 
strike  or  interfere,  he  will  not 
extend  himself,  thus  limiting  or  interfering  with  his 
action  (p.  139). 

Another  individual  peculiarity  is  the  amount  of 
work  the  colt  can  stand.  Some  can  endure  twice  the 
work  of  others,  so  that  it  requires  constant  vigilance 
not  to  overwork.  When  the  colt  is  going  nicely  the 
tendency  is  to  drive  him  another  brush,  which  is 
continued  until  he  is  fatigued.  This  should  not  be 
done.  Never  continue  the  exercise  beyond  the 
point  where  the  colt  can  improve  with  the  next  step. 
The  tired  colt  loses  control  of  his  legs  and  feet ;   his 


Fig.  28.  —  One  type  of  toe- 
weight. 


Training  the  Mature  Colt  123 

action  is  irregular ;  he  falters  in  his  g^it,  hitching 
and  hobbling  along ;  he  may  even  strike  and  injure 
himself  or  he  may  break  and  run.  No  progress  can 
be  made  in  training  a  tired  horse,  and  in  fact,  he  loses 
precision  in  action. 

If  the  training  is  conducted  properly,  the  first 
year  in  harness  will  have  a  marked  effect  upon  the 
colt.  The  lungs  will  develop  with  the  muscles,  and 
the  legs  will  attain  a  hard,  clean  substance  capable 
of  enduring  great  strain.  His  speed  and  action  will 
improve  with  his  physical  development  and  he  will 
move  with  clock-like  precision.  On  the  other  hand, 
if  the  training  is  not  properly  conducted,  if  each 
individual  is  not  critically  studied  and  his  needs 
supplied,  the  consequence  will  be  as  far-reaching, 
though  with  disastrous  results. 

TRAINING   THE    TWO-  AND    THREE-YEAR-OLD 

As  the  colt  increases  in  age  and  strength  the  work 
may  be  increased  gradually,  the  exact  amount  de- 
pending on  the  endurance  of  the  individual.  To 
improve  the  speed,  many  trainers  continue  the  short 
brushes,  though  the  distance  driven  is  gradually 
increased,  starting  at  about  200  yards  with  the  young- 
ster, working  up  to  three-eighths-mile  brushes  with 
the  two-year-old,  and  one  half  mile  brushes  with 
the  three-year-old  horse.  The  number  of  brushes 
given  at  each  exercise  likewise  depends  on  the  indi- 


124     Training  the  Trotter,  Coacher  and  Roadster 

vidual.  By  careful  observation  one  can  soon  learn 
to  judge  when  a  horse  has  sufficient  work. 

The  number  of  lessons  given  daily  will  depend  on 
the  amount  and  severity  of  the  work.  If  the  exercise 
is  rather  light  and  not  too  fatiguing,  two  short  les- 
sons are  preferred,  whereas  if  the  work  is  fast  and 
severe  one  is  recommended.  The  often-repeated 
sharp  brushes  are  the  speed-makers  and  should  be 
employed  when  convenient.  When  this  system  is 
used,  it  is  important  that  the  brushes  be  driven  at 
various  places  along  the  track.  If  the  work  is  con- 
tinued too  long  in  one  place,  the  colt  acquires  the 
habit  of  slowing  down  and  turning  at  this  particular 
place.  Another  annoying  habit  youngsters  often 
acquire  is  that  of  turning  out  every  time  they  pass 
the  gate  leading  to  the  stables.  To  overcome  this, 
avoid  slowing  down  or  turning  near  the  gate  and 
brush  past  it,  then  turn  and  walk  back. 

As  the  time  approaches  for  the  horse  to  enter  the 
race,  his  endurance  must  be  improved.  Thus  far  it 
has  been  a  matter  of  developing  speed,  without  which 
no  horse  can  win.  While  the  brush  system  —  going 
a  short  distance  at  a  fast  rate  rather  than  a  long  dis- 
tance at  a  slow  rate  —  develops  the  muscles  and 
lungs  and  improves  the  speed,  it  does  not  prepare 
the  horse  to  withstand  the  numerous  heats  of  a  long- 
drawn  race.  To  illustrate  one  method  of  increasing 
the  endurance  a  daily  program  is  given. 


Training  for  One  Day  125 

DAILY   PROGRAM    FOR   A   HORSE    IN   TRAINING 

Give  the  horse  a  drink  the  first  thing  in  the  morn- 
ing, or  if  preferred  keep  a  bucket  of  water  in  his  box 
over  night.  For  the  morning  ration,  feed  one  fourth 
of  the  daily  allowance.  It  should'  be  in  condition 
to  be  easily  and  rapidly  consumed.  Nothing  is 
better  than  clean,  sound  oats  and  sweet,  well-cured 
timothy  hay  harvested  rather  early.  Never  feed 
new  oats  or  new  hay.  After  breakfast  thoroughly 
groom  the  horse,  giving  special  attention  to  the  legs 
and  soles  of  the  feet.  If  convenient,  walk  him  in 
the  dew.  Now  hitch  him  to  the  sulky  and  give  him 
an  early  jog  of  a  few  miles.  Take  him  to  the  stable, 
remove  the  harness  and  boots  and  bandage  his  legs. 
Walk  him  a  few  minutes,  remove  the  bandages  and 
hand-rub  the  legs.  Give  him  a  drink  of  fresh  water 
and  place  him  in  the  box-stall  with  his  head  loose  and 
leave  the  animal  undisturbed. 

In  two  or  three  hours,  some  trainers  give  the  horse 
his  real  work  for  the  day,  while  others  prefer  to  work 
out  in  the  afternoons.  The  amount  and  kind  will 
depend  on  the  individual.  At  this  time  give  him 
three  or  four  rather  sharp  brushes,  carrying  him  well 
up  to  his  limit  at  the  close  of  the  last  one.  Take  him 
to  the  stable,  remove  the  harness,  blanket  him,  and 
remove  the  boots.  Next  scrape  him  off  lightly, 
exercising  much  care  not  to  let  him  get  cold  or  to 
keep  him  so  warm  as  to  require  a  second  scraping. 


126     Training  the  Trotter,  Coacher  and  Roadster 

After  scraping,  quickly  rub  the  loins  and  muscles 
of  the  shoulders  with  a  lotion  of  arnica,  rum  and 
water.  Rub  the  legs,  especially  the  joints  and  ten- 
dons, with  the  following  application :  sugar  of  lead 
2  ounces,  laudanum  2  ounces,  and  water  1  quart. 
After  this  they  should  be  carefully  bandaged..  If 
the  horse  shows  distress,  some  prefer  a  body-wash 
made  of  warm  water  and  Medford  rum,  to  which  a 
little  salt  has  been  added.  This  lotion  is  applied 
over  the  muscles  of  the  shoulders  and  loins.  Blan- 
ket at  once,  place  a  light  hood  over  the  head  and 
walk  slowly  for  fifteen  minutes  to  half  an  hour,  per- 
mitting the  animal  to  stop  occasionally  if  he  likes. 
When  dry  or  nearly  so  take  him  to  his  stall  and  rub 
him  out. 

Bandaging  the  legs  properly  calls  for  some  skill. 
The  function  of  the  bandage  is  to  support  the  ankle 
and  tendons  until  they  have  rested  after  the  strain  of 
hard  work.  Many  persons  leave  the  heels  and  under 
part  of  the  ankles  exposed,  whereas  the  lower  part  of 
the  ankle  needs  the  support  furnished  by  the  bandage 
equally  as  much  as  the  upper  part  of  the  leg.  The 
bandage,  therefore,  should  be  set  fairly  tight  and 
wrapped  well  down  around  and  under  the  fetlock. 
It  should  be  left  on  one  or  two  hours. 

Now  that  the  animal  is  dry  and  thoroughly  cleaned, 
he  is  ready  for  the  noon  meal.  First  give  him  a 
drink  of  fresh,  cool  water  and  then  feed  him  another 
quarter  of  his  daily  allowance.     He  should  now  be  left 


Evening  Care  127 

quiet  until  time  for  the  afternoon  walk,  at  which 
time  he  should  be  watered  again.  Some  time  during 
the  afternoon  give  him  a  good  walk,  and  if  convenient, 
allow  him  to  eat  a  Httle  green  grass. 

In  the  evening,  offer  him  another  drink  and  feed 
the  remainder  of  the  day's  ration.  Thus  the  heavy 
feeding  comes  at  night  when  there  is  sufficient  time 
to  consume  the  ration  and  no  exercise  to  follow  im- 
mediately after  feeding.  In  about  two  hours  after 
giving  the  evening  ration,  water  again  and  arrange 
the  bedding  for  the  night.  Before  leaving  for  the 
night,  however,  the  feet  and  legs  should  receive 
extra  attention.  The  feet  should  be  cleaned  care- 
fully and  washed  out.  If  dry,  they  should  be  packed 
with  clay  mud.  Avoid  the  use  of  such  material  as 
cow-dung,  as  it  often  causes  such  diseases  as  thrush, 
canker  and  the  Hke ;  also  avoid  using  oil,  as  it  has  a 
tendency  to  make  the  hoof  brittle.  The  legs  should 
be  hand-rubbed,  and  if  slightly  inflamed,  witch- 
hazel  or  the  sugar-of-lead-laudanum  lotion  should  be 
applied. 

TRAINING   FOR   THE    RACE 

In  preparing  a  horse  for  the  race,  first  make  a 
thorough  physical  examination,  as  good  health  is 
essential,  and  without  it  no  horse  can  win,  even 
though  his  breeding  be  of  the  best  and  his  training 
perfect.  If  the  physical  condition  is  satisfactory, 
begin  the  preparation  by  working  from  three  to  five 


128     Training  the  Trotter,  Coacher  and  Roadster 

miles  daily  at  a  very  moderate  gait.  Gradually 
increase  the  number  of  miles  to  suit  the  individual. 
After  a  time,  if  the  horse  conditions  nicely,  let  him 
go  twice  each  week,  Tuesday  and  Friday,  and  finish 
the  exercise  by  carrying  him  well  up  to  his  limit  for 
a  quarter  mile.  Continue  this  until  fair  weather  in 
the  spring,  and  then  begin  giving  slow  repeats. 

During  this  part  of  the  training,  it  is  a  good  plan 
to  score  (driving  under  the  wire)  the  horse  a  few 
times  each  day.  By  a  little  patient  effort  he  can  be 
trained  so  that  there  will  be  no  difficulty  in  getting 
off  properly  at  any  time  it  is  desired  to  start  him. 

About  the  first  of  May  it  will  be  necessary  to  begin 
working  the  horse  in  mile  heats  at  regular  intervals 
of  twenty  to  twenty-five  minutes.  This  should  be 
done  twice  each  week,  say  Tuesday  and  Friday. 
While  the  number  of  heats  to  be  given  will  depend 
on  the  endurance  of  the  individual,  it  is  recommended 
that  he  be  worked  in  at  least  five.  At  first  some  of 
these  heats  should  be  finished  by  carrying  him  well 
up  to  his  limit  for  a  quarter  or  half  mile. 

As  a  rule,  successful  horsemen  do  not  like  much 
fast  work  after  the  horse  is  ready.  They  usually 
work  him  three  to  eight  seconds  from  where  he 
is  to  start,  and  continue  the  brush  work,  often 
finishing  at  the  top  of  the  horse's  speed,  but  ex- 
ercising much  care  never  to  push  him  off  his  feet. 
This  calls  for  judgment  of  the  gait  on  behalf  of  the 
trainer,  but  the  successful  driver  will  have  studied 


Exercise  before  the  Race  129 

his  horse  so  critically  that  by  this  time  he  knows 
just  what  to  depend  on. 

Preparing  for  the  race.  —  The  evening  before  and 
the  morning  of  the  race,  feed  the  horse  his  usual  ra- 
tion. After  breakfast  give  him  his  morning  jog  of 
three  or  four  miles  and  care  for  him  much  as  sug- 
gested in  the  daily  program  (p.  125).  Be  sure  to 
give  a  light  feed  after  the  jog,  exercising  care  that  he 
does  not  gorge.  In  the  case  of  horses  that  eat  their 
bedding,  it  may  be  necessary  to  provide  a  muz- 
zle. About  eleven  o'clock  give  a  fresh  drink 
and  feed  the  usual  noon  ration.  In  two  hours,  or 
shortly  before  the  time  for  calling  the  race,  hitch 
him  to  the  sulky  and  jog  two  or  three  miles.  Now 
let  him  out,  carrying  him  well  within  himself  for  one 
mile,  but  at  some  point  driving  him  to  the  limit  to 
see  that  he  has  his  speed.  Take  him  to  the  stable, 
and  by  the  time  he  has  been  cooled  out  as  suggested 
in  the  daily  program,  the  hour  for  the  race  will  have 
arrived. 

DRIVING 

Now  that  we  have  followed  the  education  of  the 
trotter  from  the  time  he  was  foaled  to  the  sound  of 
the  bell  calling  him  to  the  race,  we  will  consider  fac- 
tors of  more  general  application,  such  as  driving  ; 
improving  the  action  by  bitting,  shoeing  and  condi- 
tioning ;  injurious  results  of  defective  action,  as  inter- 
fering, forging,  overreaching,  hitching  and  like  topics. 


130     Training  the  Trotter,  Coacher  and  Roadster 

Attention  has  already  been  directed  to  the  neces- 
sity of  preserving  the  sensitiveness  of  the  colt's 
mouth,  when  educating  him,  by  the  use  of  a  bit 
covered  with  leather  (p.  57)  and  of  the  desirabihty 
of  educating  the  draft  horse  to  a  light  rein  (p.  93). 
Such  training  is  commonly  known  as  ^^mouthing, " 
and  is  of  much  importance.  The  manner  in  which 
the  lines  are  held  in  driving  is  commonly  known 
as  ''hands,"  and  designated  ''good  hands"  or  "bad 
hands"  as  the  case  may  be. 

Good  hands  signifies  the  delicacy  of  touch  that 
never  pulls  at  a  horse's  mouth  more  than  is  neces- 
sary, and  never,  on  any  account,  when  it  is  not 
necessary.  To  acquire  this,  calls  for  natural  adap- 
tation and  skill.  A  light  but  firm,  an  elastic  but 
steady  hold  on  the  line  is  what  is  desired.  Good 
hands  are  rather  indefinable,  and  methods  of  acquir- 
ing them  cannot  be  imparted  by  written  or  spoken 
words.  The  importance  of  good  hands  and  the 
necessity  of  preserving  the  natural  sensitiveness  of 
the  horse's  mouth  become  apparent  when  we  con- 
sider that  our  every  wish  or  command  is  communi- 
cated to  the  horse  along  the  lines  to  a  bit  in  his 
mouth,  and  especially  when  we  take  into  account 
the  fact  that  man's  strength  is  insignificant  when 
compared  to  that  of  a  horse. 

On  the  other  hand,  bad  hands  signify  all  other 
methods  of  holding  the  lines.  As  a  rule,  we  drive  with 
too  tight  a  hne.     Pulling  hands  make  lugging  horses. 


Effects  of  Careless  Driving  131 

When  the  driver  pulls  on  the  mouth  it  hurts.  The 
horse  finds,  however,  if  he  gives  in  and  slows  down, 
that  he  is  touched  with  the  whip  to  make  him  '^  drive 
up  to  the  bit."  He  soon  learns,  also,  that  the  harder 
he  makes  the  driver  pull  at  his  mouth  the  less  pain- 
ful it  becomes.  This  is  due  to  the  pressure  shutting 
off  the  circulation,  which  numbs  or  deadens  the 
mouth  to  the  pain.  The  other  extreme,  that  is, 
permitting  the  lines  to  hang,  is  equally  as  bad.  The 
horse,  being  left  to  stumble  along  as  best  he  can, 
becomes  careless  in  his  action.  Many  drivers  have 
the  habit  of  nagging  or  jerking  at  the  fines  when 
they  wish  the  horse  to  increase  his  speed.  This 
likewise  destroys  the  natural  sensitiveness. 

Bad  hands  resulting  in  bad  mouths  are  responsible 
for  much  of  the  undesirable  action  in  driving  horses. 
When  we  recall  the  extreme  tenderness  of  the  mouth, 
the  cruel  manner  in  which  it  is  handled,  the  irrita- 
tion thus  produced  from  the  resulting  sores,  we  can 
understand  why  a  horse  may  lag  behind  until  the 
parts  become  numbed,  then  begin  to  pull,  holding 
the  head  to  one  side,  going  with  the  mouth  open, 
lolling  the  tongue,  slobbering,  tossing  the  head  and 
crossing  the  jaws ;  how  he  loses  control  of  his  legs, 
so  to  speak,  and  "  hitches,"  hobbles,  forges,  over- 
reaches, interferes,  and  in  many  other  ways  shows 
evidence  of  the  discomfort  he  is  suffering. 

To  hold  the  lines  when  driving,  take  them  in  the 
left  hand,  the  left  line  coming  into  the  hand  over 


132     Training  the  Trotter,  Coacher  and  Roadster 

the  forefinger  and  the  right  one  between  the  middle 
and  ring  finger.  The  manipulation  of  the  lines  and 
the  guiding  should  be  done  with  the  right  hand, 
which  also  carries  the  whip.  The  arms  of  the  driver 
from  shoulder  to  elbow  should  hang  naturally,  with 
forearms  held  at  right  angles  and  the  hands  meet- 
ing in  front  of  the  body  in  a  perfectly  natural  posi- 
tion, with  thumbs  uppermost.  This  position  of  the 
hands  and  lines  gives  the  best  possible  control  of 
the  lines  and  at  the  same  time  enables  him  to  keep 
a  light  touch  on  the  horse's  mouth.  With  the 
horse  properly  mouthed  and  the  natural  sensitiveness 
preserved,  the  slightest  touch  on  either  line  will 
be  pressure  sufficient  to  guide  the  horse. 

IMPROVING    THE    ACTION 

In  the  training  of  the  coach  horse,  action  is  para- 
mount. It  is  prized  because  the  proper  kind  is  so 
difficult  to  secure.  Training  horses  of  this  class 
is  complicated  by  many  factors,  chief  of  which  are 
the  conformation  and  the  natural  adaptation  of  the 
horse.  Some  horses  are  so  defective  in  form  as  to 
prevent  high  action.  There  are  others,  however, 
seemingly  of  the  correct  conformation  to  produce 
excellent  action  but  lacking  the  nervous  adaptation ; 
and  still  others  somewhat  lacking  in  conformation 
but  possessing  the  proper  nervous  development  to 
make  them  excellent  performers  in  their  class.     In 


Conformation  and  Action  133 

the  conformation  of  the  pasterns,  for  example, 
length  and  obliquity  usually  favor  lightness  and 
elasticity  of  the  tread,  yet  this  is  not  always  the 
case,  as  we  find  many  heavy-going  horses  of  this 
conformation ;  in  the  case  of  a  horse  with  short 
pasterns  and  straight  shoulders,  which  as  a  rule 
produce  heavy  movements,  this  is  not  always 
true,  as  we  not  infrequently  find  straight-shouldered, 
short-pasterned  horses  that  step  lightly.  These 
exceptions  are  undoubtedly  referable  to  the  nervous 
system.  In  the  former  case  the  horse  is  of  a  lym- 
phatic temperament,  lacking  zest  in  his  labors  for 
the  want  of  tone  in  his  nervous  system,  while  in  the 
latter  case  he  is  of  a  nervous  disposition  and  is  a 
willing  and  enduring  worker  in  his  range. 

With  few  exceptions,  however,  the  action  is  refer- 
able to  the  conformation,  and  defects  in  the  legs 
show  themselves  with  almost  unvarying  regularity 
in  their  effect  upon  the  action.  Thus  the  horse  that 
stands  with  his  front  feet  placed  wide  apart  has  a 
tendency  to  straddle ;  the  knock-kneed  one  gener- 
ally dishes ;  the  one  that  toes-in  winds  out,  while 
the  one  that  toes-out  winds  in.  The  horse  with 
his  hocks  wide  apart  and  his  feet  close  together 
winds  his  hocks  outward ;  the  sickle-hocked  one 
winds  his  feet  outward;  while  the  horse  with  his 
hocks  placed  too  far  behind  has  a  peculiar  dragging 
movement  of  the  hind  legs.  Not  only  the  confor- 
mation of  the  legs  but  that  of  the  body  also  indi- 


134     Training  the  Trotter ,  Coacher  and  Roadster 

cates  the  action  and  the  ease  with  which  the  horse 
can  be  balanced.  Thus  the  horse  with  thick  withers 
and  wide  chest  is  Hkely  to  roll  his  feet  outward  in 
traveling.  In  the  case  of  a  horse  with  a  short  neck 
and  heavy  head,  much  difficulty  is  experienced  in 
bringing  out  his  action  because  of  the  poor  relation 
between  the  head  and  neck.  In  this  case  the  action 
will  be  short  and  stilted.  The  first  requirement, 
therefore,  for  straight,  undeviating  action  is  that 
the  horse  be  of  proper  conformation  (Fig.  29) . 

The  action  of  any  horse  can  be  improved  by 
adopting  the  proper  system  of  training,  although 
but  little  progress  can  be  made  without  good  con- 
formation and  a  tendency  to  show  action.  With- 
out the  conformation,  or  the  inclination,  it  is  hopeless 
to  try  to  develop  action  to  a  degree  that  will  make 
it  worth  the  time  and  effort.  On  the  other  hand, 
a  horse  with  head  and  neck  of  proper  relation  and 
well  joined,  that  has  a  responsive  mouth  and  some 
ambition,  that  has  the  various  parts  of  the  body 
in  correct  proportions  and  stands  squarely  on  his 
legs,  will  when  urged  get  his  head  up  and  nose  in,  and 
if  restrained  at  the  same  time,  by  the  use  of  the 
proper  bit,   will  show  superior  action. 

In  training  the  horse  for  high  action  there  are 
three  factors  that  require  special  attention :  bitting, 
shoeing  and  conditioning. 

Bitting  to  improve  action.  —  Now  that  we  come  to 
the  special  study  of  bitting  to  improve  action,  it 


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136     Training  the  Trotter,  Coacher  and  Roadster 

is  important  that  we  scrutinize  the  mouth,  as  there 
is  much  variation  in  shape  and  in  the  natural 
sensitiveness  among  individuals.  Some  horses  pos- 
sess small  tongues  and  rather  narrow  sharp  bars, 
which  are  very  sensitive  to  pressure  and  call  for 
much  care  in  training  to  the  pressure  of  the  bit. 
Because  of  the  extreme  tenderness,  such  a  mouth  is 
easily  spoiled,  whereas  if  properly  trained  to  pres- 
sure it  is  likely  to  develop  into  a  delightfully  re- 
sponsive one.  On  the  other  hand,  there  are  horses 
that  possess  thick,  leathery  tongues  and  heavy, 
coarse  bars  which  are  very  difficult  to  make  respon- 
sive, owing  to  their  lack  of  sensitiveness.  A  close 
examination  of  the  mouth,  therefore,  will  give  some 
idea  of  the  method  to  employ  in  bitting  to  improve 
action. 

After  familiarizing  the  coach  horse  with  the  uses 
of  the  bit  by  employing  an  easy  bit  much  as  sug- 
gested (p.  57),  he  should  then  be  educated  to  the 
curb-bit.  Instead  of  using  common  lines,  as  has  been 
suggested,  many  prefer  long  ones,  so  they  can  re- 
main near  the  center  of  the  training  paddock  while 
driving  the  horse  around,  as  this  gives  a  better  view 
of  the  action  and  saves  many  steps.  The  curb-bit 
is  made  so  as  to  divide  the  pressure  between  the  in- 
side and  the  outside  of  the  mouth,  the  chain  under 
the  lower  jaw  exerting  pressure  in  such  a  way  as 
to  bend  the  head  on  the  neck,  or  rather  bend  the 
nose  in.     By  holding  the  horse's  head  up  with  an 


Curb-bits  Improve  the  Action 


137 


overdraw  check-rein  and  by  holding  his  nose  in  with 
the  curb-bit,  he  will  when  urged  and  restrained  ^^step 
up"  instead  of  stepping  forward. 

Curb-bits  are  so  constructed  that  different  de- 
grees of  leverage  can  be  exerted,  and  they  may  be- 
come instruments  of  torture  in  the  hands  of  the 
inexperienced  (Fig.  94,  34  to  36).     If  properly  used, 


Fig.  30.  —  Coach  horse  properly  bitted  to  favor  action. 

however,  they  are  really  easier  in  many  mouths 
than  less  severe  bits,  as  the  leverage  they  bring  to 
bear  will  make  some  horses  bend  that  cannot  be 
made  to  do  so  without  them.  As  soon  as  the  horse 
bends  his  head,  very  little  pressure  need  be  exerted 
to  hold  the  nose  in.  Never  pull  more  than  the 
exigency  of  the  case  requires,  for  injury  and  irri- 
tating sores  will  result.  To  encourage  high  stepping, 
simply  exert  sufficient  pressure  on  the  lines  to  hold 
the  head  up  and  the  nose  in  (Figs.  30  and  31). 


138     Training  the  Trotter,  Coacher  and  Roadster 

To  faiTiiliarize  the  horse  with  the  curb-bit,  place 
it  in  his  mouth  a  few  hours  each  day  and  let  him 
stand  in  the  stable.  This  gives  an  opportunity  to 
become  accustomed  to  the  shape  of  the  new  bit  in 
quiet,  after  which  the  pressure  may  be  brought  to 


Fig.  31.  —  Improving  the  action  with  a  curb-bit ;  head  up  and  nose  in. 

bear  by  degrees.  This  is  very  important,  as  many 
horses'  mouths  are  spoiled  the  first  day  the  curb-bit 
is  used.  The  bit  improves  the  style  and  action  to 
such  an  extent  that  the  driver  feels  encouraged,  and 
he  urges  the  horse  against  the  bit  and  curbs  him  in 
until  the  mouth  becomes  abraded.     As  the  parts  be- 


Training  to  the  Curb-bit  139 

come  sore  the  animal  begins  to  hold  his  head  to  one 
side,  to  toss  it  up  or  carry  it  unsteadily,  to  pull  on 
the  lines  and  finally  to  go  irregularly  in  his  gait,  to 
hitch,  to  interfere  and  the  like. 

When  the  horse  is  made  familiar  with  the  uses  of 
the  curb-bit  by  using  the  dumb  jockey  or  the  bitting- 
rig  as  described  (p.  60),  if  at  any  time  he  shows 
evidence  of  discomfort,  loosen  the  side-reins  and 
then  tighten  them  gradually.  It  is  important  to 
have  the  bit  of  the  correct  length  and  properly  ad- 
justed. If  he  draws  his  tongue  up  in  his  mouth, 
or  puts  it  over  the  bit,  it  is  because  the  bit  is  too 
low,  in  which  case  it  should  be  raised.  If  he  gets 
his  head  too  low,  it  should  be  held  in  the  proper  po- 
sition by  using  a  check-rein.  Training  to  the  uses 
of  the  curb-bit  requires  patience,  perseverance  and 
tact.  The  tendency  is  to  hurry  this  part  of  the 
work  too  rapidly.  If  the  mouth  becomes  sore, 
rest  it  by  keeping  the  bit  out  until  it  is  better;  then 
begin  over  again,  using  extra  caution.  The  trainer 
will  be  rewarded  for  his  time  and  effort,  as  it  is  re- 
markable how  much  the  knee  and  hock  action  can  be 
increased  by  cultivating  a  responsive  mouth. 

Shoeing  to  improve  action.  —  Shoeing  and  weighting 
are  very  important  factors  in  properly  balancing  the 
driving  horse,  but  one  cannot  shoe  or  weight  a  horse 
correctly  until  making  a  critical  study  of  his  move- 
ments. 

In  training  the  trotting  horse,  it  is  often  necessary 


140     Training  the  Trotter,  Coacher  and  Roadster 

that  he  be  shod  very  early  in  Hfe,  in  which  case  a  very 
light,  plain  shoe  should  be  used.  It  is  important  to 
keep  the  shoes  as  light  as  possible,  for  every  additional 
ounce  has  a  detrimental  influence  upon  the  horse. 
The  extra  weight  may  occasionally  be  necessary,  but 
it  is  none  the  less  an  evil  because  a  necessary  one. 

In  shoeing,  the  aim  should  be  to  keep  the  foot 
elastic,  yielding  and  natural.  Fitting  the  shoe  calls 
for  careful  study, —  the  old  shoe  will  often  furnish 
valuable  information.  In  trimming  the  foot,  be 
careful  with  the  knife,  cutting  only  the  horn  and 
wall.  Leave  the  frog,  the  sole  and  the  bars  alone. 
They  will  care  for  themselves.  When  the  foot  is 
properly  leveled  and  made  as  nearly  natural  as  pos- 
sible, then  fit  the  shoe  to  the  foot  and  not  the  foot 
to  the  shoe.  The  shoe  should  be  fitted  cold. 
The  nails  should  not  be  placed  too  near  the  edge 
of  the  hoof,  nor  too  far  back  toward  the  quarters, 
thus  leaving  the  heel  free.  In  smoothing  the 
clinched  nails,  do  not  rasp  the  outside  of  the 
hoof,  as  it  will  remove  the  natural  protective  cov- 
ering. The  shoes  should  be  reset  at  least  once 
each  month,  otherwise  the  hoofs  will  grow  out  so 
as  to  destroy  the  natural  form  of  the  legs. 

The  importance  of  weight  on  the  horse's  feet  is 
often  overestimated.  While  it  is  true  that  extra 
weight  will  often  make  him  show  more  action  for  a 
time,  particularly  if  he  is  well  driven  and  in  fine 
fettle,    yet  if   he   is  called   on  to   exert  himself   for 


Weighting  to  Improve  the  Action  141 

any  length  of  time,  especially  if  the  going  is  heavy 
or  if  he  is  drawing  a  load,  his  movements  will  soon 
become  labored,  he  will  pound  the  ground,  very 
likely  overreach  and  forge,  and  the  character  of 
his  action  will  be  destroyed.  When  extra  weight 
is  necessary  to  bring  out  the  action,  it  should  be 
reduced  as  soon  as  possible.  This  should  be  done 
gradually.  Since  wear  lightens  the  shoes,  it  is  a  good 
plan  when  replacing  them  to  have  the  new  shoes 
the  weight  of  the  old  ones  after  being  reduced. 
If  the  horse  continues  to  go  well,  reduce  until  the 
proper  weight  is  reached.  One  has  to  be  guided  by 
the  individual  in  determining  the  amount  of  weight 
to  be  put  in  the  horse's  shoes  in  order  to  bring  out 
the  best  results  in  the  way  of  action. 

In  training  for  high  action  it  is  often  of  advan- 
tage to  permit  the  hoofs  to  grow  to  a  fair  length, 
thus  causing  the  horse  to  exert  extra  effort  in  rais- 
ing and  extending  the  legs.  Though  fatiguing  to 
the  animal,  this  has  a  tendency  to  increase  the 
action.  This  extra  growth  of  the  hoof,  like  extra 
weight  in  the  shoe,  is  often  a  necessary  evil  when 
extreme  action  is  desired. 

Defects  in  action  can  be  corrected,  in  a  measure, 
by  modifying  the  shoe  and  the  shape  of  the  hoof. 
The  horse  that  winds  his  feet  outward  may  often  have 
his  action  improved  by  having  the  inside  branch  of 
the  shoe  slightly  the  heavier,  whereas  the  one  that 
winds  in  should  have  the  outside  branch  slightly 


142     Training  the  Trotter,  Coacher  and  Roadster 

increased  in  thickness.  In  case  the  horse  extends 
too  much  and  fails  to  bend  his  knees  sufficiently,  it 
is  often  advantageous  to  have  the  toes  of  the  shoes 
fairly  light  and  to  increase  the  weight  gradually 
toward  the  heels ;  or  in  case  the  horse  folds  or  bends 
the  knees  too  much  and  fails  to  extend  the  feet 
sufficiently,  increase  the  weight  toward  the  toes  and 
lighten  it  toward  the  heels.  This  of  course  must 
be  done  so  as  not  to  interfere  with  the  level  of  the 
foot.  If  the  true  position  of  the  leg  is  interfered 
with,  the  wear  will  not  be  equally  distributed  and 
lameness  is  likely  to  follow.  In  shoeing  and  balanc- 
ing to  improve  action,  however,  it  is  most  important 
that  each  animal  be  critically  studied  and  the  method 
adopted  that  will  yield  the  best  results. 

Conditioning  to  improve  action.  —  To  bring  out  the 
action,  it  is  essential  that  the  horse  be  in  fine  fettle. 
He  must  be  full  of  nervous  energy  and  his  muscles 
well  developed.  No  matter  what  his  conformation, 
how  thoroughly  trained,  or  perfectly  balanced,  it  is 
not  possible  for  the  horse  that  is  run  down  in  flesh 
and  lacking  thrift  to  come  into  the  bit  with  that 
rhythmical,  frictionless  action  that  commands  the 
respect  of  all.  He  must  not  only  know  how  to  do  it 
and  feel  like  doing  it,  but  must  also  have  the  power. 
The  making  of  a  responsive  mouth,  the  correct  bal- 
ancing and  toning  up  of  the  system,  should  proceed 
together;  one  should  never  be  permitted  to  go  ahead 
of  the  others  in  making  high-acting  horses. 


Faulty  Action  143 

Horses  differ  in  the  amount  of  food  required  to 
produce  best  results,  just  as  they  do  in  other  ways. 
No  rule  can  be  made  that  will  apply  to  all.  One  horse 
may  keep  strong  and  in  fine  condition  on  hay  alone, 
while  another  may  require  ten  or  fifteen  quarts  of 
oats  daily,  in  addition,  to  keep  him  right.  In  cases 
in  which  action  contributes  to  the  horse's  value,  he 
must  also  look  well.  This  often  complicates  the 
feeding  question,  as  an  excess  of  hay  in  the  ration 
sometimes  distends  the  abdomen  and  gives  the  horse 
an  unsightly  appearance,  particularly  if  he  be  slightly 
cow-bellied.  To  avoid  this,  one  should  feed  a  nu- 
tritious ration,  rather  concentrated  in  its  nature, 
then  give  regular  exercise  to  prevent  the  spirits  from 
becoming  exuberant  (p.  147). 

INJURIOUS   RESULTS    OF   FAULTY   ACTION 

Not  only  is  faulty  action  unsightly,  but  it  results 
in  many  disagreeable,  annoying  and  injurious  de- 
fects. For  convenience  these  may  be  divided  into 
two  classes:  those  caused  by  the  hind  and  fore  feet 
striking,  variously  referred  to  as  over-reaching, 
forging  and  chcking;  and  those  due  to  the  feet  on 
either  side  hitting,  referred  to  as  interfering,  striking, 
cutting  and  brushing. 

Over-reaching,  forging  and  clicking.  —  These  defects 
result  from  any  cause  that  prevents  the  horse  from 
getting  his  forefeet  out  of  the  way  of  the  hind  ones 


144     Training  the  Trotter,  Coacher  and  Roadster 

while  traveling.  In  some  cases,  the  horse  is  pre- 
disposed to  the  trouble,  in  which  case  it  is  often  diffi- 
cult to  overcome,  while  in  others  it  is  excited  by  a 
number  of  conditions  which  can  be  remedied,  as  a 
rule,  by  rational  treatment.  Undue  shortness  of 
body,  fore  pasterns  disproportionately  long,  withers 
lower  than  the  croup  and  low  heads  are  frequent 
predisposing  causes.  Lack  of  strength,  or  fatigue 
due  to  hard  or  fast  work,  a  hard,  unyielding,  unre- 
sponsive mouth  due  to  bad  hands,  and  soft  footing  or 
heavy  going,  such  as  driving  on  soft  earth  roads, 
particularly  if  the  horse  is  used  to  the  hard  footing 
of  the  city  pavement,  are  frequent  exciting  causes. 
To  overcome  the  difficulty,  first  seek  out  and 
remove  the  cause  if  possible.  In  the  large  majority 
of  cases,  after  the  horse  is  put  in  good  condition, 
the  mouth  well  made  and  the  feet  properly  shod,  there 
will  be  no  further  difficulty.  In  some  cases  it  may 
be  necessary  to  employ  artificial  means,  though  this 
should  be  done  only  as  a  last  resort.  To  remedy 
over-reaching  and  kindred  faults,  the  principle  to 
pursue  is  to  hasten  the  action  of  the  forefeet  and  to 
encourage  a  slow  or  dweUing  movement  of  the  hind 
ones,  in  order  to  allow  the  former  to  get  out  of  the 
way  of  the  latter.  The  action  of  the  forefeet  can 
often  be  hastened  by  slightly  rounding  off  the  toes 
of  the  front  shoes,  as  this  has  a  tendency  to  encour- 
age the  horse  to  raise  his  feet  quickly.  On  the  other 
hand,  the  action  of  the  hind  feet  can  often  be  retarded 


Correcting  Faulty  Action  145 

by  raising  the  toes  of  the  hind  shoes  and  lowering 
the  heels. 

Interfering,  striking,  cutting  and  brushing.  —  Like 
over-reaching,  these  defects  also  result  from  a  num- 
ber of  causes,  some  of  which  are  predisposed,  while 
others  are  due  to  exciting  conditions.  Defective 
conformation,  such  as  narrow  chests,  legs  and  parti cu 
larly  fetlocks  deviating  inward,  and  feet  of  poDr 
conformation  are  the  principal  predisposing  causes. 
Improper  mouthing,  fatigue,  poor  shoeing,  uneven 
and  slippery  footing,  and  the  like,  are  frequent 
exciting  causes. 

Of  the  many  defects  resulting  from  faulty  action, 
interfering  is  one  of  the  most  troublesome.  It  is, 
however,  one  that  admits  of  a  large  measure  of  pre- 
vention, and  the  ill  effects  of  it  can  be  remedied 
to  a  very  considerable  extent  by  proper  bitting, 
shoeing  or  balancing,  and  by  the  use  of  boots. 

The  treatment  to  overcome  interfering  and  kin- 
dred troubles  is  much  the  same  as  that  suggested  for 
over-reaching.  First,  find  the  cause  and  remove 
it  if  possible.  Then  put  the  horse  in  good  condition, 
and  see  that  his  mouth  is  properly  bitted  and  his 
feet  correctly  shod.  When  the  difficulty  is  due  to 
defects  in  the  conformation  of  the  hoof,  it  may,  in 
a  measure,  be  overcome  by  shoeing.  If  the  horse 
toes-out,  shorten  the  outer  part  of  the  toe  to  a  greater 
extent  than  the  inner,  or  if  he  toes-in,  trim  the  hoof 
in  the  opposite  way.     When  the  injury  is  inflicted 


146     Training  the  Trotter,  Coacher  and  Roadster 

by  the  inner  part  of  the  hoof,  as  it  often  is  in  the  hind 
feet,  the  difficulty  can  be  remedied,  in  a  degree, 
by  rasping  the  inner  side  to  reduce  shghtly  its  con- 
vex form  and  by  placing  the  inner  branch  of  the  shoe 
under  the  foot  as  far  as  possible  without  running  too 
much  risk  of  bruising  the  sole.  Relief  is  often  gained 
by  shortening  the  inside  of  the  hoof  more  than  the 
outside,  in  which  case  the  inner  branch  of  the  shoe  is 
thickened  to  keep  the  foot  level.  The  inner  part 
of  the  shoe  should  be  well  rounded  so  that  there  will 
be  as  little  danger  as  possible  of  inflicting  injury. 
In  other  cases,  relief  is  gained  by  shoeing  with  a 
three-quarter  shoe  —  one  coming  about  halfway 
round  on  the  inside  and  not  covering  the  surface  of 
the  inner  quarter.  Shoeing  to  remedy  interfering 
requires  careful  study  of  each  individual. 

In  the  training  of  young  horses  for  speed  or  high 
action,  boots  are  strongly  recommended  to  prevent 
injury,  should  the  animal  interfere.  It  is  of  very 
common  occurrence  for  youngsters  to  interfere  until 
they  become  familiar  with  the  bit,  after  which  no 
difficulty  is  experienced.  Furthermore,  the  colt 
may  become  frightened  at  any  time,  lose  his  stride, 
strike  himself,  and  inflict  serious  injury.  From  the 
very  beginning,  therefore,  boots  should  be  used  as  a 
safeguard  and  as  a  preventive  against  possible 
injuries  (Fig.  27). 


\ 


Exercise  the  Horse  Regularly  147 

EXERCISE    CONTRIBUTES   TO   ACTION 

Faulty  action  is  often  due  to  irregular  or  insuffi- 
cient exercise.  The  periods  of  enforced  idleness 
occasioned  by  lack  of  business  engagements  of  the 
master  or  by  inclement  weather,  are  often  followed 
by  long  drives  and  hours  of  over-exertion.  This  is 
accompanied  by  many  faulty  movements,  such  as 
irregular  and  indirect  action,  hitching  and  hobbling, 
interfering  and  over-reaching,  and  the  like.  The 
matter  is  still  further  complicated  by  the  owner, 
who,  desiring  to  keep  his  horse  in  presentable  condi- 
tion, often  overfeeds  during  the  enforced  idleness. 
Irregular  work  weakens  the  constitution,  and  the 
horse  thus  exercised  generally  has  but  a  brief 
career. 

Regular  and  judicious  exercise  stimulates  the  appe- 
tite, promotes  digestion,  encourages  assimilation 
and  helps  the  system  to  remove  material  for  which 
it  has  no  further  need  and  which,  if  allowed  to  remain, 
would  prove  injurious.  Such  exercise  improves  the 
muscular  tone  and  keeps  the  animal  in  good  spirits, 
thereby  enabhng  him  to  control  his  nervous  and 
muscular  action.  The  amount  of  work  necessary 
to  keep  the  animal  in  condition  will  depend  on  the 
individual. 

This  brings  us  to  a  discussion  of  the  rather  common 
practice  of  horse  owners  in  large  cities  turning  their 
horses  out  for  a  part  of  the  year.     There  is  much 


148     Training  the  Trotter,  Coacher  and  Roadster 

difference  of  opinion  as  to  the  advantages  of  such 
practice,  particularly  if  the  horse  is  in  good  condi- 
tion and  going  sound.  Some  one  has  said  that 
''two  let-ups  are  as  bad  as  a  break-down, "  and  there 
seems  to  be  considerable  truth  in  the  statement. 
To  throw  a  horse  into  complete  or  comparative  idle- 
ness for  any  length  of  time  causes  his  tendons  to 
lose  strength,  his  muscular  system  to  lose  tone  and 
his  nervous  system  to  lose  power  of  application. 
True,  such  a  horse  may  be  worked  back  into  condi- 
tion, but  it  will  take  months  to  restore  muscular 
tone  and  nervous  energy.  As  a  rule,  the  horse  is 
taken  up  and  put  to  work  at  once,  with  the  result 
that  he  suffers  from  muscular  soreness  and  may 
develop  faulty  action  very  difficult  to  remedy. 
With  the  horse  that  is  sound  and  in  good  condition, 
the  better  plan  is  to  provide  regular  exercise. 

On  the  other  hand,  if  the  horse .  is  run  down, 
slightly  lame,  or  otherwise  out  of  condition,  compara- 
tive idleness  is  almost  essential.  Such  animals  are 
already  in  poor  condition,  and  there  is  nothing  better 
than  a  good  blue-grass  pasture,  well  watered  and 
well  shaded,  especially  in  the  early  summer  before 
flies  become  troublesome.  Such  pastures  provide 
natural  conditions,  as  the  horse  in  feeding  will  take 
some  exercise,  the  morning  dew  will  improve  the 
physical  condition  of  his  feet,  and  pasture  consti- 
tutes the  best  of  food.  If  convenient,  he  should 
be  fed  grain  in  addition^  as  this  aids  in  regaining 


Exercise  Contributes  to  Action  149 

muscular  tone  and  nervous  energy.  After  the  horse 
has  regained  his  strength,  he  should  be  worked 
gradually  into  condition  again.  The  mistake  is  often 
made  of  putting  the  animal  to  work  too  quickly, 
thus  offsetting  the  good  effect  of  the  rest. 


CHAPTER    V 
TRAINING   THE   SADDLE   HORSE 

The  saddle-bred  colt  should  receive  much  the  same 
training  as  that  suggested  for  the  foal  (p.  26).  The 
saddle  work,  however,  should  not  begin  until  the 
colt  is  at  least  two  years  of  age,  and  in  most  cases 
it  is  preferable  not  to  begin  the  real  training  until 
three  years  old.  The  reason  for  this  delay  is  apparent, 
as  the  saddle  horse  is  obliged  to  bear  the  weight  of 
the  rider  and,  therefore,  should  be  well  matured  to 
avoid  straining  the  muscles  of  the  back  and  the 
tendons  and  ligaments  of  the  legs.  If  the  saddle- 
bred  colt  seems  good  enough  to  make  a  show  horse, 
and  is  stout  and  rugged,  the  training  may  begin 
early,  but  extra  care  must  be  employed  to  prevent 
injury. 

When  the  colt  is  sufficiently  mature  to  begin  the 
saddle  work,  he  should  be  taught  the  uses  of  the  bit 
much  as  suggested  in  bitting  the  work  horse  and  the 
coach  horse  (pp.  56  and  134).  As  with  high-acting 
horses  this  is  a  very  important  part  of  the  saddle 
horse's  training,  and  the  work  should  be  thoroughly 
accomplished  before  mounting. 

150 


m' 


Riding  Bridle  and  Saddle  151 

EQUIPMENT   FOR   TRAINING   A   SADDLE    HORSE 

The  riding  bridle.  —  After  teaching  the  saddle 
horse  the  uses  of  the  bit  with  a  common  bridle,  the 
riding-bridle  should  be  employed.  This  bridle  is 
similar  to  the  common  bridle  except  the  bit  and 
reins.  The  bit  is  similar  to  a  curb-bit  with  provi- 
sion for  the  attachment  of  two  sets  of  reins,  one  set 
to  the  snaffle,  the  other  to  the  curb  (Fig.  94,  31  to 
33).  Some  riders  prefer  two  bridles,  one  provided 
with  a  snaffle,  and  the  other  with  a  curb-bit.  It  is 
not  considered  good  practice  to  use  the  curb  without 
the  snaffle,  as  the  refractory  horse  may  become  diffi- 
cult to  control  by  the  former.  Before  attempting 
to  mount,  the  horse  should  be  made  familiar  with  the 
bits,  much  as  suggested  in  the  case  of  the  curb-bit 
(p.  138).  If  the  horse  has  a  tendency  to  throw  the 
head  upward,  the  martingale  should  be  used,  as  the 
rider  is  liable  to  injury. 

The  saddle.  —  There  are  many  makes  of  saddles, 
some  devised  especially  for  men  (Fig.  32,  1  and  2) 
and  others  for  women  (Fig.  32,  3  and  4).  A  rather 
light  and  flexible  saddle  is  preferable  to  a  very  heavy 
and  stiff  one.  The  pommel  —  upward  projection 
in  front  —  and  the  cantle  —  upward  projection  be- 
hind —  should  not  extend  too  high,  especially  for 
the  horse  in  training.  Care  should  be  exercised  to 
see  that  the  saddle  fits  properly  and  that  the  weight 
is   equally   distributed.     The   stirrups   and   stirrup- 


152 


Training  the  Saddle  Horse 


straps  should  receive  much  attention.     Stirrups  are 
made  in  many  forms  (Fig.  33).     Whatever  the  form 


Fig.  32.  —  Types  of  saddles.     1  and  2  for  men,  3  and  4  for  women. 

chosen,  they  should  be  of  light,  neat  construction, 
and  so  arranged  as  to  admit  the  feet  easily.     Some 


Saddle  Stirrups 


153 


riders  prefer  the  safety  stirrups,  so  that  in  case  of 
accident  there  will  be  no  danger  in  getting  the  feet 
fast,  as  the  safety  stirrups  are  provided  with  latches 
which  spring 
open  when  the 
pressure  is  re- 
moved, thus 
freeing  the  feet 
(Fig.  33,  3).  The 
stirrup-straps 
should  be  prop- 
erly adjusted. 
If  too  short,  the 
legs  of  the  rider 
will  be  held  in 
a  cramped  and 
tiresome  posi- 
tion, and  if  too 
long,  the  rider 
cannot  properly 
balance  himself. 


The  saddle-girth 
should  be   ar- 
ranged moder- 
ately tight  so  as     Fig.  33.  — Types  of  saddle  stirrups.   /.Military; 
fn      r>rp^f^r.f     +V.o         ^'  ^''''^^  leather;   3,  Safety;    4,  Ox-bow;    5, 

to    prevent    tne      siipper  stirrup. 

saddle    from 

turning.     There  is  much  difference  of  opinion  as  to 

the  advisability  of  using  a  saddle-blanket,  some  rec- 


154 


Training  the  Saddle  Horse 


ommending  its  use,  while  others  state  that  with  a 
properly  fitted  saddle  it  is  useless. 

Whip  and  spurs.  —  These  are  important  articles 
in  the  training  of  a  saddle  horse.  They  may  be 
used  as  aids  in  bringing  out  the  gaits  or  as  stimulants; 
hence,  it  is  important  to  teach  their  uses  very  early 
in  the  training  period.     In  teaching   the   horse   to 

obey  the  whip, 
either  as  an  aid  or 
a  stimulant,  one 
should  be  careful 
to  use  it  in  such 
a  way  that  the 
horse  will  not  be- 
come unsteady  in 
the  event  of  his 
rider  carrying 
anything  in  his 
hand  (p.  19). 

In  teaching  the 
horse  to  obey  the 
spurs,  care  must  be  exercised  to  avoid  making  him 
regard  them  as  instruments  of  torture.  Many  spurs 
are  so  constructed  as  to  injure  the  horse  if  improperly 
used  (Fig.  34,  2).  For  use  in  training  the  saddle 
horse,  a  Ught,  mild  spur  is  recommended  (Fig.  34,  1). 
Gradually  the  horse  should  be  made  familiar  with  the 
uses  of  the  spurs,  at  first  by  pressure  of  the  flat  of  the 
foot  or  heel,  then  by  that  of  the  spurs  without  a 


Fig.  34.  —  Types  of  spurs.     1,  Racing;   3,  pa- 
.tent ;  3,  English  ;  4>  Plain  ;  3,  Army  spur. 


Mounting  the  Horse  155 

rowel,  or  with  a  blunted  rowel,  and  lastly  by  the 
pressure  of  the  common  spurs.  The  horse  should 
be  made  so  thoroughly  obedient  to  them  that  when 
riding  him  we  may  dispense  with  their  use,  the  con- 
tact of  the  heel  being  sufficient  to  produce  the 
desired  results. 


MOUNTING   HORSE    FOR   FIRST   TIME 

After  the  saddle  horse  has  been  taught  the  uses  of 
the  bit,  he  should  be  educated  to  stand  while  being 
mounted.  This  is  an  important  part  of  the  saddle 
horse's  training,  for  it  is  very  provoking  to  have  a 
horse  continually  stepping  about  or  starting  while 
one  is  mounting.  Many  horses  otherwise  well 
trained  possess  this  aggravating  habit. 

After  driving  the  horse  about  the  training  pad- 
dock, as  suggested  in  teaching  the  commands  (p.  63), 
take  him  to  his  stall  and  carefully  place  the  saddle 
on  his  back,  first  permitting  him  to  feel  and  smell  it, 
if  he  likes.  Draw  the  girth  moderately  tight  and 
leave  him  in  the  stall  until  he  becomes  familiar  with 
the  object  on  his  back.  If  unsteady,  he  should  be 
caressed.  Then  cautiously  remove  the  saddle  and 
carefully  replace  as  before.  Repeat  until  he  exhibits 
no  uneasiness  on  being  saddled. 

Next  take  the  horse  into  the  training  paddock, 
place  across  the  saddle  a  half-filled  sack  of  sand  or 
earth,  secure  firmly  and  drive  him  about  the   inclo- 


156  Training  the  Saddle  Horse 

sure  until  he  becomes  steady.  We  may  now  remove 
the  sack,  and  if  the  horse  has  exhibited  any  unsteadi- 
ness, apply  the  noose-  or  rope-twitch  (p.  197). 
Let  an  assistant  hold  the  horse  and  correct  any 
uneasiness  by  using  the  twitch  while  the  animal  is 
being  mounted.  Quietly  mount  and  dismount  several 
times,  rewarding  or  punishing  the  horse  according 
to  his  conduct.  The  assistant  may  lead  the  horse 
about  the  inclosure  to  familiarize  him,  while  in 
motion,  with  the  weight  on  his  back.  Now  the 
rider  should  take  a  short  and  firm  hold  on  the  reins, 
so  as  to  be  able  to  meet  any  emergency,  while  the 
assistant  removes  the  twitch.  Ride  the  horse  first 
about  the  inclosure,  and  then  in  the  field,  until  he 
becomes  perfectly  familiar  with  the  extra  weight 
and  will  obey  the  voice  and  reins. 

Some  horsemen  mount  for  the  first  time  by  grad- 
ually educating  the  horse  to  bear  the  weight  of  a 
man's  body.  They  begin  by  handUng  and  caress- 
ing the  animal,  then  catching  hold  around  the  neck 
well  back  toward  the  withers,  and  by  degrees  familiar- 
izing him  with  the  weight  by  hanging  on  to  the  back 
part  of  the  neck.  After  he  learns  to  bear  weight  at 
the  withers,  pass  to  the  back,  and  in  a  like  manner 
educate  him  to  bear  weight,  first  by  simply  leaning 
on  him,  gradually  increasing  the  weight,  and  lastly 
by  taking  a  position  astride.  The  horse  is  frequently 
caressed  to  assure  him  that  he  is  doing  well.  This 
method  works  well  with  the  gentle  horse.     In  case 


Controlling  Movements  with  the  Legs         157 

the  horse  is  difficult  to  mount,  more  strenuous 
methods  must  be  adopted  (p.  274). 

To  mount  the  trained  horse,  grasp  the  reins  in  the 
left  hand  and  catch  hold  of  the  mane  just  in  front  of 
the  withers.  With  the  right  hand,  first  aid  the  left 
foot  into  the  stirrup,  then  catch  hold  of  the  pommel. 
Now  by  a  springing  leap  pull  yourself  up  and  stand  in 
the  left  stirrup,  then  place  the  right  leg  over  the 
saddle  and  into  the  right  stirrup.  Assume  a  com- 
fortable position,  with  the  arms  hanging  naturally, 
the  left  one,  which  supports  the  reins,  being  held 
about  even  with  the  top  of  the  pommel  (for  method 
of  holding  the  reins  see  page  131). 

The  horse  should  now  be  educated  to  the  uses  of 
the  spurs  and  the  rider's  legs  in  guiding  and  control- 
ling. Closing  the  knees  without  pressure  by  the  lower 
parts  of  the  legs  tends  to  steady  the  horse  while  in 
action.  Placing  the  lower  part  of  the  legs  slightly  to 
the  rear,  and  closing  them  equally,  thus  causing  slight 
pressure  on  either  side,  prepares  the  horse  to  move, 
or  if  already  in  action,  has  a  tendency  to  encourage 
him  to  keep  up  to  the  bit.  Closing  the  lower  legs 
with  considerable  pressure  behind  the  girth  stimu- 
lates the  horse  to  move  forward.  Placing  the  right 
leg  to  the  rear  and  closing  with  considerable  pressure 
stimulates  the  horse  to  move  his  hind  quarters  to 
the  left,  while  a  corresponding  action  with  the  left 
leg  stimulates  the  horse  to  move  his  hind  quarters 
to  the  right.     Each  of  these  movements  should  be 


158  Training  the  Saddle  Horse 

taken  up  separately  and  taught  the  horse  until  he 
will  obey  without  the  aid  of  the  voice,  rein  or  whip. 
It  is  important  that  the  saddle  horse  be  taught  to 
guide  to  the  right  and  left  when  you  apply  pressure 
with  the  knees  and  incline  the  body  in  the  desired 
direction.  This  is  accomplished  most  efficiently 
by  guiding  on  the  neck.  To  do  this,  first  cross  the 
snaffle  reins  under  the  lower  jaw ;  now  as  you  pull 
on  the  left  snaffle  ring,  slight  pressure  is  brought  to 
bear  on  the  right  side  of  the  neck,  which  induces  the 
animal  to  guide  to  the  left;  simultaneously  clamp  his 
body  with  your  knees  and  incline  your  body  to  the 
left.  Repeat  until  the  horse  will  guide  to  the  left 
when  you  clamp  the  knees  and  incline  to  the  left. 
Next  teach  the  animal  to  guide  to  the  right  by  revers- 
ing the  process.  When  thoroughly  familiar  with  the 
method,  teach  him  to  guide  to  the  right  and  left  in 
rapid  succession  as  you  incline  either  to  the  right  or 
left. 

GAITS  OF  THE  SADDLE  HORSE  DESCRIBED 

Before  attempting  to  teach  the  various  gaits,  we 
should  have  a  clear  conception  of  each  and  know 
exactly  what  movements  the  horse  must  make  in 
performing  the  same.  The  gaits  of  the  saddle  horse 
are  much  confused  in  the  popular  mind  because  a 
few  are  designated  by  several  terms.  There  are 
three  natural  gaits, —  the  walk,  trot,  and  gallop,  — 
and  several  artificial  ones,  being  more  or  less  varia- 


How  a  Horse  Walks 


159 


tions  of  the  natural  gaits,  such  as  the  running  walk, 
fox  trot,  slow  pace,  rack  and  the  like. 

The  walk.  —  This  may  be  considered  the  founda- 
tion of  all  saddle  gaits.  It  is  a  gait  of  four  flat  beats, 
each  foot  being  planted  in  regular  order.  If  the  right 
forefoot  comes  first  to  the  ground,  the  left  hind  foot 


Fig.  35.  —  The  walk. 

is  next  planted  ;  then  the  left  forefoot  and  finally  the 
right  hind  foot.  The  horse  has  never  less  than  two, 
and  never  more  than  three  feet  bearing  weight  on 
the  ground  at  the  same  time.  The  weight  is  borne 
first  by  the  two  forefeet  and  right  hind  foot ;  then 
by  the  right  forefoot  and  left  hind  foot ;  then  by  the 
two  hind  feet  and  right  forefoot;  and  lastly  by  the 


160  Training  the  Saddle  Horse 

left  forefoot  and  right  hind  foot  (Fig.  35).  When 
the  movement  is  quickened  the  horse  does  not  at 
once  change  his  gait,  but  extends  his  strides  and 
makes  them  more  uniform,  until  further  extension 
becomes  difficult,  when  he  will  break  into  a  trot. 

The  trot.  —  In  the  common  trot  the  footfalls 
mark  two  sharp  beats,  and  the  horse  moves  from  one 
pair  of  diagonally  disposed  legs  to  the  other  pair. 
In  the  common  and  long  trot  there  is  a  short  interval 
between  each  step  when  all  four  feet  are  free  from 
the  ground.  During  the  short  trot,  however,  one 
pair  of  diagonal  legs  is  on  the  ground  all  the  time. 
The  trot  depends  simply  upon  the  united  action  of  a 
foreleg  and  a  diagonal  hind  leg,  hence  the  weight  is 
borne  by  the  diagonally  disposed  legs  alternately 
(Fig.  36) .  The  trot  is  not  as  fast  a  gait  as  some  others, 
but  it  is  one  in  which  the  average  horse  is  capable  of 
traveling  farther  in  a  day's  journey  with  less  fatigue 
than  any  other,  on  account  of  the  diagonal  pairs  of 
legs  being  used  as  weight  bearers  and  propellers. 
This  diagonal  movement  makes  the  gait  a  rough  one 
for  saddle  work.  If  the  movement  is  hurried,  the 
horse  extends  himself  until  further  extension  becomes 
difficult,  when  he  will  break  into  a  gallop  or  canter. 

The  canter.  —  In  common  usage  there  are  three 
words  describing  this  gait,  according  to  its  speed  — 
the  canter,  the  gallop  or  lope,  and  the  run.  When 
the  horse  is  going  fast  it  is  called  a  run;  when  going 
at  a  moderate  speed  it  is  called  a  gallop  or  lope,  and 


How  a  Horse  Canters 


161 


when  he  is  going  slow  the  gait  is  called  a  canter. 
There  are  two  other  terms  sometimes  used  in  this 
connection,  the  hand-gallop  and  the  three-footed 
canter.  The  former  comes  between  the  canter  and 
the  gallop,  but  is  more  nearly  like  the  canter,  while 
the  latter  is  really  a  canter  in  front  and  a  rack  behind. 


Fig.  36.  — The  trot. 

In  other  words,  it  is  a  mixed  gait  and  is  considered 
undesirable.  The  gallop  and  the  run  are  rough  to 
ride,  while  the  hand-canter  and  the  canter  are  very 
pleasant. 

The  true  canter  is  a  gait  of  three  beats.  If  the 
weight  is  received  upon  the  left  hind  foot,  it  next  falls 
upon  the  right  hind  foot  and  left  forefoot,  and  then 

M 


162 


Training  the  Saddle  Horse 


upon  the  right  forefoot.  The  horse  works  on  his 
haunches,  with  his  legs  well  under  him;  he  bounds  up 
in  front  gracefully  and  drops  to  the  ground  lightly, 
sustaining  his  weight  on  his  hind  legs  and  haunches 
in  such  a  manner  as  to  prove  delightful  riding.  The 
slower  the  gait,  so  long  as  performed  with  animation 


Fig.  37.  — ■  The  canter. 

and  exactness,  the  better,  about  five  miles  an  hour 
being  the  most  desirable  (Fig.  37). 

When  the  horse  goes  into  the  air  from  his  left  fore- 
leg, followed  by  the  other  legs  in  the  regular  order  of 
succession,  he  is  said  to  be  leading  with  the  near  or 
left  foreleg  and  to  be  galloping  left ;  when  he  goes 
into  the  air  from  his  right  foreleg  he  is  said  to  be 


How  a  Horse  Racks 


163 


leading  with  his  off  or  right  foreleg  and  to  be  gallop- 
ing right. 

The  rack.  —  Formerly  this  gait  was  designated  by 
the  term  '^ single  foot."  It  was  so  named  because 
each  foot  falls  upon  the  ground  separately,  thus  mak- 
ing it  a   four-beat  gait.     The  rack  and  the  single- 


FiG.  38.  —  The  rack. 

foot,  therefore,  are  terms  designating  the  same  gait. 
The  term  ''rack"  has  come  into  more  common  use 
because  of  action  taken  by  the  American  Saddle 
Horse  Breeders'  Association. 

While  the  true  rack  is  a  gait  of  four  beats,  it  seems 
to  be  difficult  for  some  horses  to  perform,  and  they 
amble   or  pace  instead.     These  gaits,   though  per- 


164 


Training  the  Saddle  Horse 


formed  by  the  alternate  moving  of  the  pair  of  legs 
on  either  side,  hence  often  called  ''side  wheelers/^ 
and  when  true  consisting  of  two  beats  only,  are  never- 
theless closely  associated  with  the  rack;  in  fact  the 


Fig.  39. 


The  running  walk. 


rack  seems  to  be  a  very  fast  amble,  in  which  the  feet 
follow  each  other  in  very  rapid  succession,  thus  break- 
ing up  the  two  beat  side  wheeled  motion  (Fig.  38). 

The  running  walk.  —  The  name  fittingly  describes 
the  gait.  It  is  simply  an  accelerated  walk,  the  foot- 
falls following  each  other  in  rapid  succession.  It  is  a 
four  beat  gait.  The  running  walk  is  an  easier  gait 
than  the  walk,  and  is  very  much  faster,  though  slower 
than  the  rack.     It  is  spoken  of  as  a  slow  gait  (Fig.  39) . 


The  Slow  Gaits 


165 


The  fox  trot.  —  This  gait  is  simply  a  slow,  rather 
loosely  jointed  trot.  Some  one  has  fittingly  described 
it  as  a  ''dog  trot."  The  action  is  somewhat  similar 
to  the  trot  described  above  except  that  it  is  much 


Fig.  40.  —  Fox-trot. 

slower,  and  the  beats  are  often  separated.     This  is 
also  called  a  slow  gait  (Fig.  40). 

The  slow  pace.  —  While  similar  to  the  pace  of  the 
harness  horse,  this  gait  differs  in  that  both  feet  on 
the  same  side  of  the  body  do  not  strike  the  ground  at 
the  same  time.  There  is  just  enough  break  in  the 
impact  to  introduce  a  short  interval,  thus  making 
it  a  four  beat  gait  similar  in  this  respect  to  the 
running  walk  and  fox  trot.     It  is  a  slow  gait. 


166 


Training  the  Saddle  Horse 


The  jump.  —  While  not  a  gait,  properly  speaking, 
hunters  are  required  to  perform  the  jump,  and  it  is 
here  described.  Most  horses  take  the  hurdles  at  the 
gallop  or  run  by  shortening  the  steps  and  advancing 


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with  both  hind  feet  nearly  simultaneously  until 
sufficiently  near  to  take  off.  They  bring  the  hind 
feet  well  under  the  center  of  gravity,  and  instantly 
the  forequarters  are  raised,  and  this  action  is  imme- 
diately followed  by  an  energetic  propulsion  of  the 


Saddle  Horses  Classified  167 

hind  legs  sufficient  to  lift  the  weight  and  carry  the 
long  body  of  the  horse  entirely  over  the  hurdles. 
As  soon  as  the  obstacle  is  passed,  the  forelegs  sepa- 
rate, so  as  not  to  make  contact  with  the  earth  at  the 
same  time.  Thus  the  forefeet  come  in  contact  with 
the  earth  in  rapid  succession,  and  they  are  imme- 
diately followed  by  the  hind  feet  landing  separately, 
in  such  a  manner  as  to  deaden  the  shock.  All  the 
feet  are  now  free  to  gallop  off  as  before  the  leap 
(Fig.  41). 

CLASSES    OF   SADDLE    HORSES 

There  are  three  classes  of  saddle  horses :  the  walk- 
ing horse  ;  the  walk,  trot  and  canter  horse  ;  and  the 
five-gaited  saddle  horse,  to  which  may  be  added  two 
others,  the  hunter  and  the  high-school  horse.  The 
walking  horse  is  one  well  trained  at  the  running  walk 
gait.  This  is  the  business  horse,  and  is  in  demand 
on  ranches,  plantations,  large  farms,  and  the  like. 
The  walk,  trot,  and  canter  horse  is  an  animal  well 
trained  in  the  three  gaits  and  is  in  demand  wherever 
saddle  horses  are  used.  The  gaited  saddle  horse 
is  required  to  go  five  gaits.  He  must  be  able  to 
walk,  trot,  rack,  and  canter,  and  for  the  fifth  gait 
he  may  choose  any  one  of  the  three  slow  gaits,  the 
running  walk,  fox  trot,  or  slow  pace.  This  horse 
is  in  demand  for  pleasure  and  show  purposes.  The 
hunter  is  usually  able  to  go  most  of  the  saddle  gaits, 
and  in  addition  is  well  trained  at  the  jump,  while 


168  Training  the  Saddle  Horse 

the  high-school  horse,  in  addition  to  going  all  the 
saddle  gaits,  is  well  trained  in  many  fancy  steps. 
From  time  to  time  there  is  still  another  class  of  saddle 
horses  for  which  there  is  much  demand,  and  is 
for  use  in  the  army.  These  horses,  in  addition  to 
doing  the  ordinary  saddle  gaits,  must  be  trained  to 
stand  gun-fire,  and  some  of  them,  more  particularly 
the  scouting  horses,  to  lie  down  when  commanded. 

TRAINING    TO    THE    GAITS 

Now  that  the  horse  is  thoroughly  familiar  with  the 
use  of  the  bit,  — both  snaffle  and  curb, — with  whip  and 
spurs,  and  with  the  rider's  legs  in  aiding  and  control- 
ling the  movements,  and  that  we  have  a  clear  under- 
standing of  the  movements  of  the  various  gaits,  we 
are  prepared  to  teach  the  horse  how  to  perform  the 
gaits.  Let  no  one  attempt  to  teach  the  gaits  until  all 
of  these  requirements,  on  the  part  of  both  rider  and 
horse,  have  been  met,  for  failure  will  surely  result, 
since  the  rider  cannot  teach  that  which  he  does  not 
understand,  and  the  horse  cannot  learn  until  means 
of  communication  have  been  established  between  the 
rider  and  his  mount. 

The  walk.  —  Training  to  a  true  or  collected  walk 
is  a  very  important  part  of  the  saddle  horse's  educa- 
tion, although  it  is  perhaps  the  most  neglected  of  all 
gaits.  To  train  the  horse  to  walk,  take  the  snaffle 
rein  in  hand  in  such  a  manner  as  just  to  feel  the  ani- 


Training  to  Walk  169 

mal's  mouth,  and  allow  the  hand  to  be  slightly  influ- 
enced by  the  movements  of  his  head.  Apply  the 
unspurred  heel  in  such  a  way  as  to  induce  the  horse 
to  increase  the  length  of  his  stride,  without  breaking 
into  a  jog.  If  he  shows  any  inclination  to  break, 
immediately  steady  him  by  a  slight  increase  of  the 
pressure  on  the  bit,  and  by  the  voice.  After  a  few 
breaks,  the  rider  can  tell  when  the  horse  is  on  the 
verge  of  breaking,  and  should  hold  himself  in  readi- 
ness to  gently  prevent  him  from  doing  so.  It  is 
important  to  remember,  in  teaching  the  horse  to 
walk  fast,  that  he  must  be  allowed  the  freedom  of  his 
head,  and  that  the  reins  must  not  be  held  in  a  firm 
hand.  If  the.  reins  are  held  firmly,  it  causes  him  to 
shorten  his  steps  and  to  go  into  the  air  instead  of 
moving  rapidly  forward.  As  the  lesson  progresses, 
the  blunt  spurs  may  be  applied  to  stimulate  the 
horse  to  greater  effort. 

It  is  not  advisable  to  continue  the  walking  lesson. 
After  going  a  couple  of  miles,  carrying  the  horse  well 
up  to  his  limit  at  the  flat-footed  walk,  he  may  be 
quietly  urged  into  a  trot  for  a  quarter  of  a  mile,  mak- 
ing him  do  his  best  as  to  style  and  action  all  of  the 
way.  Steady  down  to  the  walk,  and  continue  as  be- 
fore. To  prevent  the  horse  from  acquiring  a  slov- 
enly or  uneven  gait,  always  rnake  him  do  his  best  at 
each  gait.  To  perfect  the  horse  at  the  flat-footed 
walk  may  require  months,  but  we  should  keep  at  the 
task,  always  urging  him  to  the  mark. 


170  Training  the  Saddle  Horse 

The  trot.  —  In  teaching  the  horse  to  trot,  take  him 
on  the  snaffle  reins  and  hold  tolerably  firm  on  the 
bit.  Gently  urge  him  into  a  slow,  collected  trot,  and 
as  he  prepares  to  start  begin  to  post  —  that  is,  rise  in 
the  saddle.  As  a  rule,  the  saddle-bred  horse  will  go 
to  trotting  the  instant  you  post  in  the  saddle,  if 
urged  at  the  same  time.  If  the  horse  should  make 
a  mistake  and  start  on  a  ^^ jiggle,"  bring  him  to  a 
walk  and  try  again.  As  you  give  him  the  word  this 
time,  reach  forward,  and  with  the  right  hand  grasp 
him  by  the  mane,  well  up  on  the  neck.  It  seems 
instinct  for  the  young  horse  to  trot  when  you  do 
this.  Sometimes  if  you  bear  a  little  weight  and 
rather  shove  his  head  down,  the  green  horse  will  go 
off  on  the  trot.  With  a  difficult  horse  some  excellent 
horsemen  recommend  reaching  forward  and  taking 
hold  of  one  ear.  They  state  that  it  is  a  very  rare 
case  where  this  will  not  work.  After  the  horse  knows 
what  you  want  him  to  do,  then  work  back  to  his 
neck,  and  eventually  by  just  touching  his  neck  in 
front  of  the  saddle  he  will  go  on  the  trot.  It  should 
be  said,  however,  that  the  ear  method  is  condemned 
by  many  saddle-horse  trainers. 

To  develop  style  and  action  urge  the  horse  for- 
ward by  such  gentle  means  as  a  light  tapping  with 
the  whip  ;  by  the  judicious  application  of  the  spurs 
and  by  the  voice;  but  the  rider  must  not  allow  the 
animal  to  pull  on  the  bit.  The  head  must  be  retained 
in  the  correct   position  by  a  gentle  see-saw  action 


Leading  with  a  Foreleg  171 

with  the  reins.  In  the  latter  stages  of  the  training, 
the  curb-rein  may  be  brought  into  play  to  improve 
the  style  and  increase  the  action.  Because  of  the 
extra  exertion,  the  trotting  lesson  should  always  be 
of  short  duration,  and  the  horse  kept  well  within 
his  strength. 

The  horse  should  be  taught  to  lead  with  either 
foreleg  at  the  discretion  of  the  rider.  To  teach  the 
animal  to  lead  with  the  right  foreleg,  gently  pull 
his  head  to  the  right,  inclining  the  body  some- 
what to  the  right  and  at  the  same  time  cautiously 
apply  the  right  spur  just  behind  the  girth,  as  the 
prick  there  causes  the  animal  to  move  his  right 
foreleg.  Some  horsemen  gently  strike  the  right 
elbow  with  the  toe  of  their  boot,  and  at  the  same 
time  tap  the  horse  as  far  back  on  the  left  quarter 
as  possible  with  the  whip.  This  causes  the  horse 
to  bring  the  left  hind  leg  forward,  and  as  the  right 
front  leg  moves  in  unison  the  desired  action  is  ob- 
tained. To  teach  the  horse  to  lead  with  the  left 
front  leg,  just  reverse  the  procedure.  This  training 
should  be  given  in  the  paddock,  and  should  be  re- 
peated until  the  rider  can  control  the  leading  leg 
at  a  given  signal. 

The  canter.  —  With  the  horse  at  the  walk,  take 
him  on  the  curb-rein,  pull  him  together  until  his 
legs  are  under  him,  lean  slightly  to  the  front  and  urge 
him  forward  by  the  gentle  apphcation  of  the  spurs, 
restraining  him  at  the   same   time  with  the   curb- 


172  Training  the  Saddle  Horse 

bit.  As  the  horse  starts,  salute  him  with  the  right 
hand;  if  he  fails  to  notice  this,  snap  the  fingers  to 
attract  his  attention.  This  is  the  signal  to  be  used 
in  later  life  when  you  wish  him  to  canter.  After 
cantering  a  quarter  mile  steady  him  down  to  the 
walk,  and  then  repeat  until  the  horse  understands 
what  he  is  expected  to  do. 

Speed  is  not  sought  at  the  canter,  simply  stylish  and 
comfortable  action.  This  must  be  attained  by  induc- 
ing the  horse  to  bring  his  hind  legs  well  under  the  body, 
and  at  the  same  time  by  keeping  his  head  in  the  proper 
position  by  slight  pressure  on  the  curb-bit. 

Teach  the  horse  to  lead  with  either  foreleg  as  sug- 
gested in  training  to  trot.  To  facilitate  this,  when 
teaching  to  lead  with  the  right  foreleg  circle  to  the 
right,  and  when  teaching  to  lead  with  the  left  fore- 
leg circle  to  the  left.  Teach  him  to  lead  with  al- 
ternate legs  by  riding  him  in  the  outline  of  the 
figure  8.  First  use  a  large  figure,  but  gradually  de- 
crease it  until  it  is  as  small  as  possible.  The  horse 
will  thus  learn  to  change  his  leading  leg  in  accordance 
with  the  direction  in  which  he  is  required  to  circle. 

The  running  walk.  —  With  the  horse  at  the  walk, 
take  him  lightly  on  the  curb  reins,  urge  him  just  out 
of  the  walk  by  a  gentle  touch  of  .the  spurs  and  as 
he  starts  reach  over  and  touch  him  on  the  withers. 
As  he  breaks  from  the  walk  hold  him  steady  and  do 
not  allow  him  to  go  into  a  trot  or  rack,  or  to  fall 
back  into  a  walk.     This  is  a  very  delightful  gait 


Training  to  the  Slow  Gaits  173 

to  ride  and  one  in  which  the  horse  keeps  time  to 
his  steps  by  the  nodding  of  his  head,  hence  the  term 
^^nodder"  which  is  sometimes  apphed  to  horses  of 
this  class. 

Fox  trot.  —  With  the  horse  at  the  walk,  take  him 
on  the  snaffle  rein  and  urge  him  into  a  slow  ''dog 
trot"  or  ''shog."  As  with  the  running  walk,  do 
not  let  him  forge  ahead  into  a  trot  or  rack  or  slow 
down  to  a  walk,  but  when  he  strikes  the  desired  gait 
hold  him  steady.  After  going  a  short  distance  slow 
down  and  then  repeat.  Next  practice  urging  the 
horse,  alternately,  from  the  walk  to  the  running 
walk  and  from  the  walk  to  the  fox  trot.  Repeat  un- 
til the  horse  will  obey  the  signals  without  the  slight- 
est confusion.  This  may  take  months,  but  it  is  essen- 
tial to  a  well-trained  saddle  horse. 

The  slow  pace.  —  This  gait  is  taught  in  much  the 
same  manner  as  the  fox  trot,  some  horses  taking 
naturally  to  one,  some  to  the  other,  depending  on 
whether  they  have  a  natural  inclination  to  trot  or 
pace.  Take  the  horse  mildly  on  the  curb-rein  and 
urge  him  just  out  of  the  walk  by  pressure  on  the 
legs  and  a  slight  side  to  side  shuffle  of  the  reins  just 
sufficient  to  work  on  the  bit.  When  the  horse 
takes  the  gait  hold  him  steady.  Slow  down  to  a 
walk  and  then  repeat.  Later  alternate  with  the 
running  walk  and  fox  trot. 

The  rack.  —  In  teaching  this  gait,  choose  a  road 
with  rather  hard,  smooth  surface.    The  rack  is  a  rather 


174  Training  the  Saddle  Horse 

difficult  gait  on  the  horse.  If  the  road  is  soft,  he 
fatigues  rapidly,  while  if  rough  the  gait  is  difficult 
to  perform.  With  the  horse  at  one  of  the  slow  gaits, 
preferably  the  slow  pace,  take  him  on  the  curb-rein 
and  urge  him  forward  by  gripping  the  knees  so  that 
he  will  feel  the  clasp,  and  give  him  the  spurs.  A 
horse  is  taught  to  rack  by  spurring  him  forward  and 
curbing  him  back.  Should  he  start  to  trot,  some- 
times a  side  to  side  shake  of  the  reins  just  sufficient 
to  work  on  the  bit  will  encourage  the  green  horse 
to  start  off  on  a  rack.  Sit  firm  in  the  saddle  and 
urge  the  horse  up  against  the  curb.  Do  not  allow 
him  to  slow  down  into  a  pace ;  if  he  falters,  touch 
him  with  the  spurs  and  lift  him  gently  on  the  bit 
to  steady  him.  After  racking  a  short  distance 
steady  down  to  the  walk  and  repeat.  Continue  the 
process  until  he  will  rack  the  moment  you  draw  up 
on  the  curb  and  apply  the  pressure  with  the  knees. 
Each  of  the  saddle  gaits  should  now  be  repeated  un- 
til the  horse  will  take  any  one  at  the  given  signal. 
This  may  require  much  time  and  patient  effort,  but 
such  is  essential  to  the  saddle  horse's  education. 
The  jump.  —  Some  horses  are  born  jumpers  and 
require  practically  no  training,  but  jump  efficiently 
at  the  first  attempt,  while  others  appear  to  have  no 
idea  of  jumping  whatever.  While  opinion  is  divided 
as  to  the  proper  age  to  begin  training  the  hunter, 
many  excellent  horsemen  think  the  jumping  ex- 
ercise cannot  begin  too  early  if  properly  conducted. 


Training  to  Jump  175 

This  training  may  well  begin  during  colthood  while 
he  is  running  with  the  dam  by  arranging  a  couple 
of  fences,  such  as  the  dam  can  easily  step  over,  say 
eighteen  inches  or  two  feet  high,  and  so  situated  that 
both  mare  and  foal  must  pass  over  them  when 
leaving  the  stable  and  when  returning.  To  avoid 
accident  these  fences  should  be  made  of  movable 
boards  placed  one  upon  the  other,  thus  avoiding 
cracks,  and  the  top  should  be  padded  with  burlap. 
As  soon  as  the  foal  learns  to  jump  easily,  the  boards 
may  be  removed  for  a  month  and  later  replaced. 

Exercise  of  a  similar  nature  should  be  provided 
from  time  to  time,  gradually  increasing  the  height 
of  the  hurdles  up  to  say  three  feet  by  the  time  the 
horse  is  three  years  old.  It  is  not  considered  safe 
to  go  beyond  this  height,  as  it  is  very  easy  to  sprain 
the  young  horse  or  to  cause  the  development  of 
bony  growths  such  as  curbs,   splints  and  the  like. 

At  three  years  of  age,  the  hunter  may  be  trained 
to  the  uses  of  the  bit  much  as  suggested  for  the  sad- 
dle horse  (p.  150).  Now  with  the  long  lines  drive 
the  horse  about  an  inclosure  similar  to  the  small 
track  described  for  the  trotter  (p.  Ill),  but  provided 
with  high,  well-padded  fences  on  either  side,  and 
with  two  hurdles  on  one  stretch  and  one  on  the 
other.  For  the  first  two  rounds  place  the  bars  on 
the  ground  and  if  the  horse  has  been  trained  as 
suggested,  he  will  jump  them.  This  serves  to  fix 
the  idea  as  to  what  he  is  supposed  to  do.     When  the 


176  Training  the  Saddle  Horse 

horse  goes  steadily  around  at  the  canter,  arrange  the 
hurdles  about  one  foot  high,  then  lead  him  toward 
one  of  them  and  when  near  quietly  encourage  him 
to  jump.  If  he  refuses,  lead  him  back  and  punish 
him  as  he  moves  away  from  the  hurdles,  then  turn 
and  try  again,  never  punishing  as  he  approaches 
the  object,  as  this  distracts  his  attention  and  he 
will  refuse  again.     When  he  jumps,  caress  him. 

During  the  second  lesson  approach  the  hurdles 
from  the  opposite  direction,  and  alternate  from 
day  to  day.  Do  not  hurry  the  horse,  and  do  not 
run  risks  by  asking  him  to  jump  when  the  earth  is 
wet  and  slippery,  or  when  there  is  the  slightest  dan- 
ger. Continue  this  exercise  until  the  horse  is  four 
years  old,  when  he  may  be  mounted  and  ridden  about 
the  farm.  At  first,  to  inspire  confidence,  have 
him  jump  easy  objects.  If  you  do  not  overdo  the 
work,  he  will  soon  acquire  courage  and  carry  you 
wherever  you  may  wish  to  go. 

Training  to  stand.  —  The  saddle  horse  should  be 
taught  to  stand  whenever  the  reins  are  thrown 
over  his  head.  This  is  done  by  fastening  a  bag 
to  the  reins  in  such  a  way  that  when  the  horse 
steps  forward  he  steps  on  the  bag,  and  gives  him- 
self a  jerk  at  the  bit.  Very  soon  he  learns  that 
when  the  reins  are  over  his  head  and  the  bag  on  the 
ground,  he  is  to  stand.  After  a  while  the  bag  may 
be  removed,  and  the  horse  will  stand  simply  by 
throwing  the  reins  over  his  head  and  on  the  ground. 


Training  to  Stand  Gun  Fire  111 

If  he  should  acquire  the  habit  of  stepping  forward,  at- 
tach the  bag  for  a  time. 


TRAINING    HORSES    FOR    THE    ARMY 

In  preparing  horses  for  use  in  the  army,  whether 
for  cavalry,  scouting  or  artillery  work,  one  of 
the  first  lessons  should  be  to  train  the  animal  to 
stand  gun-fire.  Some  horses  are  so  nervous  that 
they  seem  unable  to  become  reconciled  to  such  noise, 
and  if  the  animal  is  of  this  class,  it  is  of  advantage 
to  know  it  at  once,  since  further  training  is  useless. 

There  are  two  methods  of  training  horses  to  stand 
gun-fire,  the  Rarey  and  the  Galvayne.  In  the 
Rarey  method  (p.  212)  the  horse  is  laid  on  the  ground 
while  firecrackers  are  shot  off  over  his  body,  first 
at  some  distance,  but  gradually  approaching.  After 
he  becomes  reconciled  to  the  noise,  he  is  let  up  and 
the  use  of  the  crackers  continued;  then  a  revolver 
is  used,  and  lastly  the  gun.  If  at  any  time  the  horse 
becomes  unsteady,  he  is  laid  down  again  and  the  en- 
tire process  repeated  until  he  becomes  so  familiar 
with  the  gun  that  he  will  stand  while  it  is  being 
fired  from  his  back.  In  the  Galvayne  method 
(p.  219)  the  head  and  tail  are  tied  together  so  that 
the  horse  goes  round  and  round  until  the  excitement 
passes  away.  Only  a  few  crackers  are  used  at  first, 
and  as  soon  as  the  horse  becomes  familiar  with  the 
noise  his  head  is  freed,  and  the  noise  continued  as 

N 


178  Training  the  Saddle  Horse 

in  the  Rarey  method.  If  at  any  time  the  horse  be- 
comes unsteady,  his  head  and  tail  are  tied  together 
again  and  a  new  start  is  made.  This  is  continued 
until  he  becomes  perfectly  familiar  with  the  firing 
of  guns. 

The  cavalry  horse.  —  The  work  of  the  army  is 
often  carried  out  under  rough  conditions,  and  it  is 
important  that  the  cavalry  horse  be  trained  at  the 
jump  as  well  as  at  the  walk,  trot  and  canter.  He 
should  be  so  thoroughly  educated  that  the  rider  can 
control  the  horse's  movements  by  the  legs  and 
voice  in  case  both  hands  should  be  engaged  in  operat- 
ing the  guns.  As  soon  as  the  horse  will  perform  the 
movements  alone,  he  should  be  placed  in  the  ranks 
and  taught  to  act  in  unison  with  the  other  mounts. 

The  scouting  horse.  —  In  addition  to  the  training 
suggested  for  the  cavalry  horse,  the  scout's  mount 
should  be  taught  to  lie  down  at  the  command  of 
the  rider  and  permit  him  to  fire  over  his  reclining 
body.  Some  horses  are  very  easily  taught  to  lie 
down.  This  is  accomplished  by  the  Rarey  method 
(p.  212),  or  by  some  modification  of  it.  The  horse 
is  laid  down  gently  as  described,  and  while  down 
is  caressed.  Then  he  is  let  up  and  the  process  re- 
peated;  this  time  he  is  commanded  to  ^^lie  down" 
or  tapped  on  the.back  of  the  front  legs  with  the  whip, 
and  an  instant  later  his  feet  are  drawn  up  by  the 
ropes  and  he  goes  down  again.  Caress  him  as  be- 
fore.    The  process  is  repeated  until  the  horse  will 


Picketing  the  Army  Horse  179 

lie  down  when  commanded  to  do  so.  This  may 
require  tact  and  patience.  If  the  horse  seems 
rather  obstinate,  give  him  a  few  hard  falls,  but  ca- 
ress him  when  down. 

Picketing.  —  There  are  two  methods  of  picket- 
ing army  horses,  one  by  the  low  rope,  lying  on  the 
ground  and  secured  by  pegs,  the  other  by  the  high 
rope.  In  the  former  method  the  animals  are  secured 
to  the  ground-rope  by  one  or  both  heels,  preferably 
both,  while  in  the  latter  method  the  rope  is  arranged 
taut,  nearly  breast  high,  and  does  away  with  the 
necessity  for  heel-ropes,  which  have  a  tendency  to 
chafe  the  pasterns,  even  though  soft,  pliable  hobbles 
are  used.  The  heels,  in  consequence,  become  sore, 
and  when  on  the  march  it  is  very  difficult  to  keep 
the  abrasions  clean  so  as  to  give  them  an  oppor- 
tunity to  heal  (p.  375).  Both  methods  are  exten- 
sively used. 

TRAINING    SADDLE    HORSES    FOR    SPECIAL    WORK 

Polo  game.  —  In  the  making  of  a  polo  pony  it  is 
very  important  that  he  possess  a  good  temper  and 
be  well  trained  in  the  uses  of  the  bit,  and  to  the  walk, 
trot  and  canter.  He  should  be  taught  these  gaits  as 
thoroughly  as  the  cavalry  horse,  for  the  rider's  hands 
are  constantly  engaged  in  manipulating  the  polo 
stick.  It  is  essential  that  the  polo  pony  be  taught 
to  lead   (p.  171)  with  either  foreleg  at  a  given  sig- 


180  Training  the  Saddle  Horse 

nal  from  the  rider,  and  it  is  even  more  important 
that  he  be  taught  to  stop  instantly,  no  matter  how 
fast  the  gait.  As  we  have  seen,  much  exercise  in 
the  outHne  of  the  figure  8  is  beneficial  in  teaching 
the  horse  to  lead  with  either  foreleg.  The  pony 
must  stop  with  his  head  up  rather  than  down,  and 
to  do  this  properly  he  should  be  taught  to  stop 
from  his  hind  legs.  When  the  stopping  is  done  with 
the  shoulders,  the  head  is  likely  to  be  lowered,  which 
is  objectionable. 

The  next  step  is  to  familiarize  the  pony  with  the 
polo  stick.  This  can  be  facihtated  by  some  such 
methods  as  suggested  in  poling  (p.  69).  When 
the  pony  shows  no  fear,  the  rider  may  take  the  stick 
in  hand  and  with  the  animal  at  the  walk,  slowly,  go 
through  much  the  same  motions  as  in  playing  the 
game.  Gradually  increase  the  movements  of  the 
stick,  first  in  one  hand  and  then  in  the  other.  Much 
care  should  be  exercised  never  to  hit  the  pony  with 
the  stick  during  this  familiarizing  work. 

When  the  pony  is  sufficiently  famiUar  with  the 
stick  to  permit  all  the  strokes  at  the  walk,  continue  the 
practice  at  the  trot,  and  lastly  at  the  canter.  Next 
take  a  soft  india  rubber  ball  and  gently  knock  about 
until  the  pony  is  used  to  it.  If  perchance  such  a 
ball  should  strike  the  animal  it  will  not  injure  or 
frighten  him.  In  training  the  pony  to  follow  the 
ball  it  is  best  to  have  several  balls,  and  when  the 
rider  misses  one  he  may  take  another.     It  discour- 


Training  the  High-school  Gaits  181 

ages  the  pony  to  be  constantly  returning  after  missed 
balls. 

Now  that  the  pony  will  follow  the  ball,  you  are 
ready  to  teach  him  to  mix  with  other  polo  ponies. 
To  do  this  use  a  pony  that  knows  the  game  and  begin 
at  the  walk.  The  green  pony  is  ridden  alongside 
the  trained  pony,  with  the  head  turned  away  so  that 
the  shoulder  will  be  turned  in  toward  him.  The 
green  pony  should  be  encouraged  to  brush  up  against 
the  other  by  pressure  from  the  rider's  outside  leg 
(p.  157).  This  training  must  be  continued  on  both 
sides.  When  the  pony  understands  it  at  the  walk, 
it  must  be  repeated  at  the  trot  and  at  the  canter. 
Next  procure  two  well-trained  ponies  and  accustom 
the  green  pony  to  being  squeezed  and  bumped,  at 
first  gently,  but  increasing  the  roughness  from  day 
to  day.  The  green  pony  should  be  made  familiar 
with  all  of  the  movements  likely  to  be  met  before  he 
enters  the  practice  game. 

High-school  gaits.  —  The  high-school  horse  is  re- 
quired to  do  a  great  variety  of  fancy  movements, 
such  as  the  Spanish  walk,  the  Spanish  trot  and  simi- 
lar gaits.  To  illustrate  the  method  of  teaching  such 
movements,  we  will  consider  the  Spanish  walk.  This 
walk  is  characterized  by  the  peculiar  manner  in 
which  the  forelegs  are  extended  during  the  step. 
The  foreleg  is  raised  without  bending  the  knee  and 
extended  straight  out  in  front  of  the  body  as  nearly 
parallel  with  the  ground  as  possible,  and  held  there 


182  Training  the  Saddle  Horse 

for  a  brief  moment  until  the  body  is  brought  forward, 
when  it  is  lowered  without  bending  the  knee.  Then 
the  other  foreleg  is  raised  similarly. 

In  teaching  the  Spanish  walk,  the  first  lessen  is  to 
train  the  horse  to  extend  his  foreleg  to  the  front. 
To  do  this  place  the  animal  with  his  right  side  toward 
a  wall,  then  standing  in  front  and  facing  him, 
grasp  the  reins  under  the  chin  with  the  left  hand, 
slightly  raise  the  head  and  turn  it  toward  the  right 
side  so  as  to  relieve  the  weight  on  the  left  foreleg. 
Tap  the  horse  gently  on  the  cannon  or  forearm  of 
the  left  foreleg  to  induce  him  to  raise  it  and  extend 
it  to  the  front.  Caress  him  for  doing  as  you  wish. 
Encourage  him  to  extend  it  as  far  as  possible.  When 
he  understands  that  tapping  the  left  foreleg  means 
to  extend  it  to  the  front,  in  a  similar  way  teach  him 
to  extend  the  right  foreleg. 

Having  taught  the  horse  to  extend  either  foreleg 
at  the  tap  of  the  whip,  let  us  try  the  Spanish  walk. 
Take  your  position  in  front  as  before  and  have  him 
extend  the  left  foreleg,  bring  him  forward  by  the 
reins  so  that  he  will  take  a  step.  While  he  is  doing 
this  you  must  prevent  him  from  bending  the  leg  at 
the  knee  by  applying  the  whip.  Reward  him  for 
obeying  and  repeat  the  process  with  the  other  front 
leg.  By  diminishing  the  interval  between  the  steps 
and  by  inducing  him  to  raise  his  forelegs  higher  we 
arrive  at  the  Spanish  walk.  It  will  take  much  prac- 
tice standing  in  front  and  aiding  the  horse  by  alter- 


Training  Circus  Tricks  183 

nately  moving  the  head  from  right  to  left,  and  occa- 
sionally tapping  the  legs  to  encourage  extension,  in 
order  to  bring  out  this  walk.  Later  you  may  mount 
the  horse  and  by  aiding  with  rein  and  whip  perfect 
the  gait. 

The  Spanish  trot  is  similar  to  the  Spanish  walk 
except  that  the  movements  are  quickened  and  when 
the  gait  is  perfected,  there  is  a  brief  moment  between 
each  step  when  all  four  feet  are  off  the  ground,  which 
gives  the  horse  a  very  spectacular  appearance. 
Similar  methods  are  employed  in  teaching  each  of 
the  high-school  movements  and  gaits. 

Circus  tricks.  —  Teaching  a  horse  circus  tricks  is 
not  a  difficult  task.  The  most  essential  things  are 
tact,  patience  and  self-control  on  the  part  of  the 
horseman.  The  teaching  of  tricks  is  merely  the 
forming  of  what  may  be  called  unusual  habits,  and 
establishing  signals  to  excite  the  horse  to  execute 
them.  The  circus  horse  is  required  to  do  a  great 
variety  of  these  tricks,  and  to  illustrate  the  method 
of  training  we  will  take  a  case,  as  teaching  the  horse 
to  bow  and  shake  his  head,  or  to  say  ^'yes"  and  ^^no," 
as  the  circus  man  puts  it. 

In  teaching  the  horse  to  bow  or  say  '^yes, "  stand  a 
little  to  one  side  and  in  front  of  him,  and  with  a  pin 
prick  him  slightly  on  the  breast.  The  horse  will 
think  the  slight  pain  was  caused  by  a  fly  and  will  put 
his  head  down  to  frighten  it  away.  When  he  makes 
the  move  toward  his  breast  with  his  head,  caress 


184  Training  the  Saddle  Horse 

him.  Repeat  and  caress,  giving  the  command 
^^bow"  or  ''yes"  just  as  you  prick  him.  Soon  he 
will  go  through  the  motion  at  the  command  alone, 
in  anticipation  of  the  caress.  To  teach  the  horse  to 
shake  his  head  or  say  ''no, "  stand  on  the  left  side  and 
with  a  pin  prick  him  lightly  on  the  crest  above  the 
shoulder.  As  before  he  will  think  this  a  fly,  and  shake 
his  head  to  remove  it.  The  moment  he  shakes  his 
head  caress  him.  Repeat  and  caress,  giving  the 
command  "no"  just  as  you  prick  him.  Soon  he 
will  shake  his  head  at  the  command  as  before,  in 
anticipation  of  the  caress. 

To  iltustrate  another  method,  let  us  consider  the  case 
of  teaching  the  horse  to  stand  erect  on  his  hind  legs. 
To  teach  this  trick,  the  surcingle  and  back  band, 
a  common  bridle,  and  the  pulley  bridle  (p.  193) 
should  be  used.  Place  the  pulley  bridle  under  the 
common  bridle,  and  rein  the  horse  up  as  high  as  con- 
venient. Take  a  position  in  front  of  the  animal, 
hold  the  pulley  bridle  lead  rope  in  the  left  hand  and 
the  whip  in  the  right.  Gently  jerk  with  the  lead 
rope  and  flick  the  whip  in  front  of  the  horse.  Repeat 
until  he  makes  an  effort  to  raise  his  front  feet  from 
the  ground  and  then  caress  him.  If  he  refuses  to 
rise,  rein  his  head  a  little  higher  and  continue  as 
before.  As  this  trick  is  very  hard  on  the  muscles  of 
the  animal's  back,  it  should  not  be  continued  for  too 
long  a  time.  With  a  little  patient  effort  the  animal 
can  be  taught  to  stand  erect  at  the  command  "up." 


Training  Saddle  Horses  for  Special  Work     185 

If  he  is  a  teachable  one,  he  can  be  encouraged  to  step 
forward  at  the  command  ^'come  here"  or  ^'get  up." 
Should  he  attempt  to  drop  on  his  front  feet  before 
commanded  to  do  so,  touch  him  gently  under  the 
chin  with  the  whip.  Not  all  horses  can  be  taught 
this  trick  as  the  muscles  of  the  back  are  too  weak  to 
permit  the  animals  to  stand  erect. 


CHAPTER  VI 

TRAINING   WILD   AND   SUBDUING 
VICIOUS  HORSES 

The  training  of  stubborn,  refractory  and  wild 
horses,  or  the  subduing  of  vicious  horses  often  calls 
for  more  strenuous  methods  than  have  hitherto 
been  suggested.  Before  deciding  upon  the  method 
to  be  employed,  one  should  make  a  careful  study  of 
the  horse  to  determine,  if  possible,  the  cause  of  his 
obstinacy.  One  source  of  indifference  is  improper 
training  while  young.  The  colt  has  probably  had 
his  nerves  deadened  by  severe  bits  or  some  similar 
treatment.  Accidents  are  a  second  source  of  indif- 
ference. The  horse  may  have  been  well  trained  and 
under  excellent  control,  but  in  an  accident  may 
have  become  frightened  and  perhaps  injured,  thus 
leaving  a  bad  impression  upon  his  mind,  and  under 
similar  circumstances  he  becomes  unmanageable.  In 
such  cases,  absolute  subjection  by  either  the  Rarey 
or  Galvayne  method  will  serve  to  bring  the  horse 
back  under  control,  as  he  learns  that  man  is  his  su- 
perior, and  that  if  he  does  as  commanded  no  injury 
is  to  come  to  him. 

186 


Nervous  Disposition  187 

TEMPERAMENT   IN   THE   HORSE 

Perhaps  the  greater  number  of  wild,  refractory  and 
vicious  horses  owe  their  faults  to  inequalities  of 
temper.  It  is  therefore  of  much  importance  that 
the  temperaments  be  studied  carefully.  Horses 
may  be  divided  into  four  general  classes  according  to 
their  temper:  teachable,  nervous,  stubborn  and 
treacherous.  The  horse  with  a  teachable  temper  is 
kind  and  docile.  He  is  easily  taught  and  readily 
adapts  himself  to  various  conditions.  He  is  very 
seldom  frightened,  excited  or  provoked  to  bad 
habits.  The  horse  with  a  nervous  temperament 
is  ambitious  and  determined.  He  is  quick  to  learn 
and  acts  with  all  his  power.  If  he  is  properly  directed 
he  rapidly  develops  into  the  best  type  of  horse.  On 
the  other  hand,  if  he  is  improperly  directed,  he  is 
quickly  spoiled.  He  is  easily  frightened  and  has  a 
natural  tendency  to  develop  such  habits  as  shying, 
running  away  and  the  like.  He  seldom  balks,  and 
when  he  struggles  he  does  so  with  all  his  power. 
Though  this  class  resists  hard,  it  is  easily  conquered, 
after  which  it  will  do  anything  that  it  understands. 

The  horse  with  a  stubborn  temperament  is  will- 
ful and  difficult  to  conquer.  He  calls  for  patient 
effort  and  tact  on  the  part  of  the  horseman,  as  the 
horse  of  this  class  is  persistent  and  does  not  give  up. 
The  horse  with  such  a  temper  often  becomes  sullen, 
his  senses   seem   to   have   become  blunted   and   he 


188     Training  Wild  and  Subduing  Vicious  Horses 

apparently  has  no  feeling.  When  he  is  excited  the 
most  severe  punishment  may  be  administered  and  he 
will  not  move  in  the  least.  If  he  does  not  respond 
to  the  first  few  strokes  of  the  whip,  it  is  useless  to 
punish  him  further.  He  must  be  put  through  the 
Rarey  or  Galvayne  course  of  subjection. 

The  horse  with  a  treacherous  temper  is  very  resent- 
ful. He  acts  without  apparent  cause  and  when  least 
expected.  He  may  balk,  fight,  kick,  strike,  bite, 
bolt  or  run  away.  Often  he  seems  to  be  conquered 
and  works  freely,  when  of  a  sudden  all  his  former 
viciousness  returns.  The  other  classes,  when  once 
conquered,  remain  obedient,  but  not  so  with  the 
treacherous  horse.  While  some  horses  of  this  class 
become  fairly  trustworthy  after  long  usage,  they 
seldom  develop  into  steady  work  horses.  In  fact, 
one  must  be  prepared  to  repeat  the  subjugation 
course  at  any  time. 

TRAINING   AND   SUBDUING   APPLIANCES 

In  educating  wild,  stubborn  and  vicious  horses, 
it  is  often  necessary  to  have  at  hand  a  variety  of 
training  appliances.  To  save  space  later  on  when 
describing  methods,  we  will  consider  the  appliances 
first.  Several  kinds  of  halters,  bridles,  twitches,  as 
well  as  many  kicking,  hobbling  and  throwing  rigs,  are 
described,  as  it  may  be  necessary  to  try  more  than 
one  hitch  in  order  to  bring  about  the  desired  results. 


How  to  Make  a  Yankee  Bridle  189 

Rope  halter.  —  The  simplest  way  to  make  a  rope 
halter  is  from  a  soft  rope  about  half  an  inch  in 
diameter  and  about  fifteen  feet  long.  Double  the 
rope  at  one  end  for  about  four  feet,  and  tie  a  knot 
in  the  doubled  part  so  as  to  form  a  large  stationary 
loop  about  three  and  one  half  feet  long.  In  this  large 
loop  make  a  small  one  for  the  lead  rope  to  pass 
through.  The  second  knot  should  be  so  tied  as  to 
leave  one  third  of  the  large  loop  on  one  side  and 
two  thirds  on  the  other,  the  short  part  to  form  the 
noseband,  the  long  part  the  headpiece.  Now  place 
the  free  end  of  the  rope  through  the  small  loop  and 
the  halter  is  ready  for  use  (Fig.  42).  A  knot  may 
be  made  in  the  lead  rope  under  the  chin  to  prevent 
the  halter  from  squeezing  the  jaws  together,  other- 
wise the  halter  will  draw  tightly  around  the  jaws. 

Yankee  bridle.  —  To  make  this  bridle,  choose  a 
soft  rope  three  eighths  of  an  inch  in  diameter  and 
about  twenty  feet  long.  Tie  one  end  of  the  rope 
around  the  horse's  neck,  close  to  the  head,  in  such  a 
way  that  the  loop  thus  formed  will  not  run.  Pass 
the  free  end  through  the  horse's  mouth  from  the 
right  side  and  up  through  the  loop  on  the  left  side, 
and  the  bridle  is  completed  (Fig.  43).  The  principle 
upon  which  this  bridle  acts  seems  to  be  that  the 
horse  obtains  relief  from  the  painful  pressure  of  the 
rough  rope  on  the  corners  of  the  mouth  the  instant 
he  approaches  the  man  who  is  pulling,  and  conse- 
quently follows  to  avoid  the  pain. 


190     Training  Wild  and  Subduing  Vicious  Horses 

Yankee  bridle  modified.  —  With  the  right  hand 
take  hold  of  the  lead  rope  near  the  horse's  left  jaw, 
with  the  left  hand  pass  the  free  end  of  the  rope  over 
the  head  just  back  of  the  ears,  down  the  right  side, 


Fig.  42.  —  Rope  halter. 

through  the  mouth  again  and  then  up  the  left  side 
and  through  the  portion  of  the  rope  held  in  the  right 
hand,  and  you  have  the  bridle  completed  (Fig.  44). 
To  increase  the  severity  of  this  bridle,  instead  of 
placing  the  latter  rope  in  the  mouth  as  a  bit,  place 


How  to  Make  a  War  Bridle 


191 


it  just  under  the 
upper  lip  and  on  top 
of  the  teeth,  then 
draw  tight.  You  now 
have  one  rope  in  the 
horse's  mouth  as  an 
ordinary  bit,  and  a 
second  under  the 
upper  hp  as  a  twitch, 
which  forms  a  very 
efficient  bridle  for 
controlling  refrac- 
tory horses. 

War  bridle. — To 
make  this  bridle, 
choose  a  rope  similar 
to  the  one  described 
in  making  the  Yankee 
bridle  (p.  189),  tie  a 
small  loop  in  one  end 
just  large  enough  to 
go  in  the  horse's 
mouth  and  around 
the  lower  jaw.  Now 
place  this  in  the  ani- 
mal's mouth  as  de- 
scribed, with  the  knot 
and  free  end  on  the 
right  side,  bring  the 


Fig.  43.  —  Yankee  bridle. 


Fig.  44.  —  Yankee  bridle  modified. 


192     Training  Wild  and  Subduing  Vicious  Horses 


Fig.  45.  —  War  bridle. 


Fig.  -iO.  —  War  bridle  modified. 


free  end  up  over  the 
head,  down  the  right 
side  and  through  the 
loop  at  the  mouth, 
thus  completing  the 
bridle  (Fig.  45).  In 
Europe  this  bridle  is 
often  referred  to  as 
the  Comanche  bridle. 
War  bridle  modi- 
fied. —  Pass  the  free 
end  of  the  rope  over 
the  horse's  head,  just 
back  of  the  ears, 
down  the  right  side, 
through  the  mouth, 
and  then  through  the 
part  which  passes 
over  the  head  and  the 
bridle  is  completed 
(Fig.  46).  The  se- 
verity of  this  bridle 
may  be  increased  as 
suggested  in  the 
Yankee  bridle  modi- 
fied, by  passing  the 
latter  rope  just  under 
the  upper  lip,  thus 
forming   a   twitch. 


How  to  Make  a  Pulleij  Bridle 


193 


Many  horsemen  pre- 
fer this  to  the  Yankee 
bridle  because  it  is 
more  convenient  in 
arranging  and  re- 
moving. 

Excelsior  bridle.  — 
This  bridle  is  made 
in  exactly  the  same 
way  as  the  war  bridle 
modified,  except  that 
the  first  rope,  instead 
of  being  placed  over 
the  head  immedi- 
ately back  of  the 
ears,  is  arranged  well 
down  on  the  neck,  al- 
most halfway  to  the 
withers  (Fig.  47). 
This  bridle  is  very 
effective  in  causing  a 
horse  to  lower  his 
head  in  case  he  in- 
sists on  holding  it  up 
when  teaching  to 
take  the  bit. 

Pulley  bridle.  —  In 
addition  to  the  rope, 
two    rings    and   a 

0 


Fig.  47.  —  Excelsior  bridle. 


Fig.  48.  —  Pulley  bridle. 


194     Training  Wild  and  Suhduirig  Vicious  Horses 


pulley  are  needed  in  making  this  bridle.  Secure  a 
short  piece  of  rope  and  weave  the  two  rings  in  so 
that  when  completed  they  will  be  about  six  inches 
apart,  and  you  have  a  rope  bit  very  similar  to 
a  common  rubber-covered  bit.     With  another  piece 

of  rope,  weave  one 
end  to  one  of  the 
rings,  and  the  other 
end  to  the  eye  of  the 
pulley,  so  that  when 
completed  it  will 
be  about  eighteen 
inches  from  ring  to 
pulley.  Perhaps  this 
should  be  measured 
on  the  animal's  head, 
as  the  pulley  should 
be  about  even  with 
the  left  eye  when  the 
bridle  is  in  position 
on  the   head.     Now 


Fig.  49.  —  Pulley  bridle  with  three  rings. 


weave  one  end  of  the  lead  rope  to  the  other  ring. 
Place  the  rope  bit  in  the  horse's  mouth  with  the  lead 
rope  on  the  left  and  the  pulley  rope  on  the  right  side, 
carry  the  latter  over  the  head  just  back  of  the  ears 
and  hold  the  pulley  on  the  left  side  of  the  head  while 
you  slip  the  free  end  of  the  lead  rope  through  it;  next 
pass  the  lead  rope  down  through  the  ring  on  the  left 
side  and  the  bridle  is  complete  (Fig.  48) .     This  makes 


Combined  Bridle  and  Twitch 


195 


a  very  efficient  bridle  for  controlling  stubborn  and  re- 
fractory horses.  Sometimes  this  bridle  is  made  by 
using  a  third  ring  instead  of  a  pulley  (Fig.  49). 

Pulley  bridle  modified.  —  In  making  this  bridle, 
neither  rings  nor  pulley  are  used.  Use  a  rope  sim- 
ilar to  that  suggested  in  making  the  Yankee  bridle 
(p.  189),  and  tie  a 
small  loop  in  one  end 
and  insert  in  the 
horse's  mouth  as  in 
the  war  bridle  (p.  191) . 
Now  carry  the  free 
end  over  the  head 
two  inches  back  of 
the  ears  and  down 
the  left  side  just  a 
little  below  the  eye; 
with  the  right  hand 
hold  the  rope  here, 
and  with  the  left 
double  the  free  end  back  over  the  head  again  imme- 
diately back  of  the  ears,  carry  the  free  end  down  the 
right  side  and  through  the  mouth,  then  up  and  through 
the  rope  you  are  holding  with  the  right  hand,  then 
down  through  the  loop  in  the  mouth,  and  the  bridle 
is  completed  (Fig.  50).  As  with  the  other  modified 
bridles,  the  severity  of  this  one  can  be  greatly  in- 
creased by  placing  the  last  rope  just  under  the  upper 
lip,  thus  making  a  twitch, 


Fig.  50.  —  Pulley  bridle  modified. 


196     Training  Wild  and  Subduing  Vicious  Horses 


Hackamore  bridle. — To  make  an  Indian  Hackamore, 
take  a  soft,  three-eighths  inch  rope  about  twenty 
feet  long,  tie  a  running  loop  in  one  end,  put  it  around 
the  horse's  neck  just  back  of  the  ears,  pull  the  loop 
open,  and  with  the  part  with  which  the  loop  is  made 

take  a  half-hitch 
about  his  nose.  Now 
with  the  free  end 
make  a  second  half- 
hitch  about  the  nose. 
Grasp  the  middle  of 
the  second  hitch 
where  it  passes  over 
the  nose  and  run  it 
through  the  first 
hitch  twice,  pulling  it 
out  far  enough  to 
pass  over  the  head. 
This  completes  the- 
Hackamore  bridle  as 
made  by  some,  while 
others  pass  the  latter 
rope  twice  around 
the  rope  already  at  the  top  of  the  head  and  bring  it 
out  around  the  forehead,  making  a  brow  band.  This 
makes  a  substantial  hitch,  and  is  much  used  by  the 
Indians,  Mexicans  and  plainsmen   (Fig.  51). 

Cavesson  halter.  —  This  consists  of  a  common 
leather  halter  with  a  heavy,  leather-covered  noseband 


Fig.  51.  —  Hackamore  bridle. 


How  to  Make  a  Twitch 


197 


made  of  metal  to  which  the  lead  rein  is  attached  so 
as  to  inflict  blows  on  the  nose  by  hght  jerking.  While 
this  appliance  is  much  used  in  Europe,  especially 
in  the  riding-schools,  its  use  is  not  recommended,  as 
it  often  renders  the  horse  difficult  to  handle  about 
the  face  and  head. 
Better  results  can  be 
obtained  from  some 
form  of  twitch. 

Lip-twitch.  —  This 
is  made  by  tying  a 
loop  in  a  small  rope, 
such  as  sash-cord, 
through  a  hole  in  the 
end  of  a  stick.  The 
loop  should  be  about 
nine  inches  long, 
while  the  stick  may 
be  from  one  to  five 
feet  long,  according 
to  convenience.  The 
loop  is  slipped  over 
the  upper  lip  of  the  horse,  and  the  stick,  which  forms 
the  handle,  twisted  until  his  attention  is  attracted. 
As  the  horse's  lip  is  very  sensitive,  the  twitch  should 
not  be  used  more  frequently  nor  tighter  than  is 
necessary. 

Noose-twitch.  —  To  make  this  twitch,  use  a  small 
rope,  such  as  sash-cord,  and  at  one  end  tie  a  small 


Fig.  62.  —  Noose-twitch. 


198     Training  Wild  and  Subduing  Vicious  Horses 


stationary  loop.  With  the  right  hand  hold  this  loop 
on  the  left  side  of  the  horse's  head,  and  with  the  left 
hand  place  the  free  end  of  the  rope  over  the  head 
just  back  of  the  ears,  down  the  right  side  and  in  the 
mouth  just  under  the  upper  lip  and  on  top  of  the 
teeth,  and  then  up  through  the  loop  being  held  in  the 

right  hand,  and  the 
twitch  is  completed 
(Fig.  52). 

In  case  the  horse  is 
very  wild,  it  will  re- 
quire some  manipu- 
lation to  get  this 
twitch  in  place.  One 
can  often  facilitate 
the  work  by  employ- 
ing a  crooked  stick, 
especially  if  the  horse 
strikes  or  bites  at  the 
operator. 

Halter-twitch. — To 
make  this  twitch,  use 
the  rope  halter  described  (p.  189),  or  any  common  rope 
halter;  with  the  right  hand  hold  the  lead  rope  close 
to  the  halter,  and  with  the  left  hand  pass  the  free  end 
over  the  head  just  back  of  the  ears  and  down  the  right 
side,  through  the  mouth  just  under  the  upper  lip  and 
then  up  around  the  rope  in  the  right  hand,  and  the 
twitch  is  complete   (Fig.  53).     This  makes  a  very 


Fig.  53.  —  Halter-twitch. 


Halter  and  Twitch  Combined 


199 


convenient  and  efficient  appliance  for  leading  and 
handling  a  refractory  horse. 

Headstall-twitch.  —  This  twitch  is  made  from  a 
common  leather  halter  by  passing  the  lead  rope 
through  the  lower  ring  of  the  halter  on  the  left  side 
of  the  head,  then  over 
the  top  of  the  head 
just  back  of  the  ears, 
down  the  right  side 
and  through  the 
mouth  under  the 
upper  lip  and  then 
up  through  the  upper 
ring  on  the  left  side. 
This  makes  a  very 
powerful  twitch.  In 
case  the  lead  rope  is 
not  sufficiently  long 
to  go  over  the  head, 
a  fair  twitch  can  be 
made  by  placing  the 
lead  rope  through  the 
lower  ring  on  the 

right  side  of  the  head,  then  down  and  through  the 
mouth,  under  the  upper  lip,  then  up  through  the  lower 
ring  on  the  left  side  of  the  head,  and  the  twitch  is 
completed,  though  this  is  not  so  efficient  as  where  the 
rope  passes  over  the  head,  and  the  rope  extends  to 
the  upper  ring  of  the  halter  (Fig.  54). 


Fig.  54,  —  Headstall-twitch. 


200     Training  Wild  and  Subduing  Vicious  Horses 

Bridle-twitch.  —  In  making  this  twitch,  the  right 
snaffle-rein  is  passed  under  the  upper  Up  and  drawn 
tightly  to  the  left  side.  This  is  often  employed  in 
training  the  horse  to  stand  quietly  after  he  has  been 
bridled,  and  while  you  mount. 

Rearing-twitch.  —  This  twitch  is  suggested  for  the 
horse  that  rears  in  the  saddle.  Secure  a  small  rope 
the  size  of  a  sash-cord  and  about  ten  feet  long,  tie  a 
knot  in  it  about  six  inches  from  one  end  and  draw  it 
tightly,  tie  another  knot  about  six  inches  from  the 
first,  but  leave  it  open.  Pass  the  knotted  end  of  the 
rope  through  the  horse's  mouth,  and  bring  it  around 
the  lower  jaw  and  pass  through  the  open  knot,  and 
work  it  up  tightly  against  the  lower  jaw.  Pass  the 
free  end  back  through  the  breast-plate,  if  there  is  one 
attached  to  the  saddle,  then  between  the  forelegs, 
through  a  ring  arranged  in  the  middle  of  the  girth, 
and  then  up  to  the  right  hand,  or  the  end  may  be 
secured  to  the  saddle.  Now  w^hen  the  horse  shows  an 
inclination  to  rear,  immediately  pull  the  cord. 

Wooden-gag.  —  This  gag  is  made  from  a  block  of 
hard  wood,  five  or  six  inches  long,  and  about  two 
inches  square.  The  corners  should  be  rounded  to 
prevent  severe  injury.  A  hole  is  bored  through  the 
center,  longways,  for  a  chain  which  is  attached  to  a 
headstall.  Some  persons  tack  leather  guards  on  each 
end  to  prevent  the  horse  from  getting  the  gag  out  of 
his  mouth.  This  gag  is  used  to  prevent  the  horse 
from  biting,  and  for  curing  him  of  the  habit. 


A  Lead  Rope 


201 


The  guy  rope.  —  This  is  a  lead  rope  for  controlling 
wild,  refractory  and  vicious  horses.  To  make  it, 
use  a  soft,  three-eighths  inch  rope  about  twenty  feet 
long  and  make  a  small  stationary  loop  in  one  end. 
Place  this  loop  under  the  left  jaw,  carrying  the  free 
end  over  the  neck 
from  right  to  left, 
then  down  the  left 
side  of  the  head 
through  the  loop  and 
to  the  mouth,  then 
through  the  mouth, 
back  under  the  lower 
jaw,  and  between  the 
jaw  and  the  rope 
coming  from  the 
neck,  thus  forming  a 
loop  around  the  neck, 
and  a  half-hitch 
around  the  jaw  (Fig. 
55).  This  makes  a  very  efficient  lead,  though  it 
should  never  be  used  in  prolonged  pulls,  but  in  short, 
quick  jerks. 

Combination  bridle.  —  To  make  this,  choose  a  small 
rope  or  sash-cord  about  thirty  feet  long,  put  the 
middle  of  it  in  the  horse's  mouth,  pass  both  ends  up 
toward  the  forehead,  knotting  them  in  front  and  a 
little  above  the  eyes  (some  slip  the  foretop  in  this 
knot  before  drawing  tight),  pass  both  free  ends  over 


Fig.  55.  —  Guy  rope. 


202     Training  Wild  and  Subduing  Vicious  Horses 

the  head  between  the  ears  and  bring  one  end  down 
either  side  just  back  of  the  jaws,  twist  the  ropes 
together,  then  bring  each  end  forward  and  around  the 
rope  in  the  mouth,  one  on  either  side;  next  pass  the 
free  ends  back  through  the  rings  in  the  surcingle, 
and  then  carry  them  on  back  behind  the  horse,  and 
you  have  a  very  efficient  combination  bridle  and 
lines  for  controlling  a  wild  horse  (Fig.  56). 

Kicking  strap.  —  This  is  used  to  prevent  the  horse 
from  kicking  when  in  the  shafts.  It  is  made  from 
leather,  which  always  should  be  of  the  very  best  and 
should  not  be  less  than  two  inches  wide,  and  of  such 
length  as  will  reach  from  one  shaft  over  the  horse's 
rump  to  the  other  shaft  (Fig.  17).  When  the  strap 
is  fixed  in  its  keepers  there  should  be  practically  no 
play  in  the  strap  between  the  shafts  and  the  rump 
of  the  horse. 

Kicking  reins.  —  These  reins  are  useful  in  control- 
ling the  horse  that  bucks  as  well  as  the  one  that  kicks. 
To  make  them,  secure  two  small  ropes  or  sash-cords 
about  eighteen  feet  long.  Put  an  overdraw  check  on 
the  horse  with  a  ring  just  back  of  the  ears.  Take 
one  of  the  small  ropes,  tie  one  end  in  the  ring  on  the 
overcheck  just  back  of  the  ears,  pass  the  free  end 
down  through  the  ring  at  the  top  of  the  surcingle, 
then  forward  and  through  the  ring  of  the  bridle  bit, 
then  back  through  the  ring  on  the  side  of  the  sur- 
cingle. Put  the  other  rope  on  the  other  side  in  a 
similar  manner.     These  cords  can  be  used  as.  lines, 


a 
o 

a 


o 
O 


d 

M 


204     Training  Wild  and  Subduing  Vicious  Horses 

and  they  are  very  effective,  particularly  on  the  horse 
that  has  a  tendency  to  get  his  head  down  against 
his  breast,  thus  making  it  impossible  to  control  him 
with  ordinary  lines.  If  the  animal  attempts  to  buck 
or  kick,  pull  on  the  cords,  thus  raising  his  head  and 
preventing  him  from  either  kicking  or  bucking,  as 
he  cannot  do  either  without  lowering  his  head.  As 
these  reins  are  very  severe,  they  should  never  be 
used  with  more  force  than  is  necessary  to  secure 
obedience. 

Kicking  harness.  —  To  make  this  harness,  it  is 
necessary  to  have  a  very  substantial  overdraw 
check  provided  with  a  ring  just  back  of  the  ears, 
two  pulleys  and  a  small  rope.  The  pulleys  should 
be  secured  to  the  shafts,  one  on  either  side,  about 
where  the  kicking  strap  is  fastened.  Attach  the 
rope  over  the  rump  similar  to  the  kicking  strap. 
Pass  the  free  ends  of  the  rope  down  through  the  pulley 
on  either  shaft,  then  up  through  the  terrets  at  the 
saddle,  and  attach  to  the  ring  in  overdraw  check 
just  back  of  the  ears.  If  the  horse  attempts  to  kick 
in  this  harness,  he  jerks  his  head  up,  thus  preventing 
him  from  kicking,  as  he  cannot  kick  without  lowering 
his  head.  This  is  a  very  effective  harness  for  curing 
chronic  kickers,  as  they  are  punished  each  time  they 
attempt  to  kick. 

Self -punishing  harnesses.  —  While  there  are  many 
methods  of  arranging  self-punishing  harness,  per- 
haps the  following  is  as  simple  and  efficient  as  any. 


Self-correcting  Harness 


205 


Choose  a  sash-cord  or  soft  quarter-inch  rope  about 
twelve  feet  long,  a  soft  three-eighths  inch  rope  about 
six  feet  long,  a  light  pulley,  four  straps  one  inch  wide 
and  about  two  feet  long,  and  two  rings  two  inches 
in  diameter.  Place  the  long  rope  through  the  eye 
of  the  pulley  and  the  short  rope  through  the  pulley 


Fig.  57.  —  Self-punishing  harness. 

itself.  Draw  the  short  rope  backward  from  the  front 
under  the  girth  so  the  pulley  will  rest  just  back  of  the 
girth  (Fig.  57).  Buckle  the  straps  above  and  below 
the  hocks  and  through  the  rings;  tie,  by  half -hitches, 
the  short  rope  into  these  rings.  Next  grasp  the  ends 
of  the  small  rope,  pass  each  to  the  rings  of  the  bridle 
bit,  at  either  side,  passing  through  the  rings  from  the 
outside,  then  pass  the  small  ropes  up  over  the  head, 


206     Training  Wild  and  Subduing  Vicious  Horses 

under  the  head-stall  of  the  bridle,  then  down  the 
opposite  side  and  fasten  to  the  bridle  rings  by  a  half- 
hitch,  so  that  the  rope  can  be  easily  unfastened  no 
matter  how  tightly  it  may  be  drawn.  If  there  is 
danger  that  the  straps  will  slip  down  over  the  hocks, 
they  should  be  supported  by  a  light  strap  placed  over 
the  rump  and  down  to  the  hock  on  either  side. 

When  this  harness  is  properly  made  of  substantial 
material,  it  may  be  used  to  correct  many  bad  habits, 
such  as  kicking,  rearing,  bolting,  running,  and  the 
like.  Should  a  horse  kick  in  such  a  harness,  the  rope 
over  the  head  draws  the  bit  up  into  the  angles  of  the 
mouth  and  holds  it  there  until  relieved  by  the  trainer. 
This  should  be  done  gently  and  with  patience.  The 
advantage  of  such  a  harness  is  that  the  horse  deals 
out  his  own  punishment  at  the  instant  he  violates 
his  master's  will. 

Hobbles.  —  These  are  used  to  prevent  the  horse 
from  kicking.  They  are  often  used  on  a  mare  at  time 
of  service  to  prevent  her  from  kicking  the  stallion. 
To  make  the  hobble,  use  a  soft  rope  one  inch  in 
diameter,  and  about  eighteen  feet  long,  four  straps 
about  one  and  one  half  inches  wide  and  two  feet  long, 
and  two  rings  two  inches  in  diameter.  Double  the 
rope  at  the  middle  and  tie  a  knot  forming  a  stationary 
loop  about  three  feet  long.  Buckle  the  straps 
above  and  below  the  hocks  and  through  the 
rings.  Now  place  the  large  loop  over  the  horse's 
head  and  slip  it  back  to  the  shoulders  much  as  a 


How  to  Make  Hobbles 


207 


collar,  pass  the  free  ends  between  the  forelegs  and 
tie  off  in  the  rings  at  the  hocks  by  half-hitches,  thus 
completing  the  hobbles  (Fig.  58).  As  buckhng  the 
straps  about  the  hock  entails  much  risk,  it  is  a  better 
plan  to  have  the  rings  sewed  to  the  straps,  which 


Fig.  58.  — Hobbles. 

calls  for  four  rings  instead  of  two,  the  ends  of  each 
pair  of  straps  being  attached  to  a  ring  and  the  rope 
passing  through  both  rings  on  either  pair. 

Rarey's  leg-strap.  —  This  is  a  strong  strap  used  for 
fastening  up  a  horse's  foreleg.  It  should  be  approxi- 
mately three  feet  long,  two  inches  wide  and  at  one  end 
of  it  there  should  be  attached  a  heavy  buckle  with  a 


208     Training  Wild  and  Subduing  Vicious  Horses 

keeper.  Now  place  a  free  running  keeper  on  the 
strap  and  the  leg  strap  is  completed.  To  adjust  the 
strap,  pass  it  around  the  pastern  of  the  horse  and 
through  the  running  keeper.  Then  draw  the  fore- 
leg up  until  the  heel  touches  the  elbow,  pass  the 
free  end  of    the  strap    around    the    forearm,   then 


Fig.  59.^ —  Rarey's  single  safety. 

through  the  buckle,  and  draw  tight.  The  horse  is 
now  unable  to  get  his  front  foot  to  the  ground  and 
must  walk  about  on  three  legs.  As  a  cautionary 
measure  it  is  a  good  plan  to  put  on  a  soft  knee-pad, 
otherwise  should  the  horse  come  down  on  his  knee 
he  may  injure  it  permanently. 

Rarei/s  safety  harness.  —  This  harness  was  devised 
by  Rarey  for  use  in  training   wild,   stubborn    and 


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210     Training  Wild  and  Subduing  Vicious  Horses 

vicious  horses.  There  are  two  forms,  the  single  and 
the  double  safety;  in  the  former  one  front  leg  only  is 
under  restraint,  while  in  the  latter  both  front  legs  are 
under  control.  This  harness  consists  of  two  straps 
about  one  foot  long  and  fitted  with  D-shaped  rings, 
a  surcingle  fitted  with  two  rings  on  the  belly,  three 
on  either  side  and  one  over  the  saddle  and  a  long  rope 


Fig.  61.  —  Rarey's  single  safety,  restraining  one  foreleg. 

(Figs.  59  and  60).  The  straps  are  buckled  around 
the  front  pasterns  and  the  surcingle  around  the  body. 
The  straps  should  be  padded  to  protect  the  pasterns 
in  case  the  animal  struggles,  and  the  knees  should 
also  be  provided  with  pads.  In  arranging  the  double 
safety,  one  end  of  the  rope  is  passed  through  the  ring 
at  the  belly,  then  down  and  through  the  ring  at  the 
left  pastern,  then  up  to  and  through  the  other  ring 


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212     Training  Wild  and  Subduing  Vicious  Horses 

at  the  belly,  then  down  and  through  the  ring  at  the 
right  pastern,  then  up  and  tied  off  at  one  of  the  rings 
at  the  right  side.  Now  by  taking  hold  of  the  free  end. 
of  the  rope  we  have  the  harness  as  illustrated  (Fig.  60). 
In  case  the  horse  is  difficult  to  manage,  put  on  the 
guy  rope  in  addition  (p.  201).     Should  he  begin  to 


Fig.  t)3.  —  Karey's  double  safety,  horso  on  knees. 


rear,  bolt  or  back,  pull  on  the  safety  rope  and  restrain 
his  forelegs  (Fig.  62).  If  he  continues  to  act  up, 
pull  his  forelegs  up  by  a  jerk  on  the  safety  rope,  and 
he  will  come  down  on  his  knees  (Fig.  63).  A  few 
hard  falls  will  usually  teach  the  most  incorrigible, 
as  such  is  a  very  humiliating  position. 

Rarey^s  throwing  harness.  —  In  the  case  of  some 
vicious  horses  it  is  necessary  to  lay  them  on  the 


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214     Training  Wild  and  Subduing  Vicious  Horses 

ground  to  teach  them  that  man  is  their  master. 
Rarey  also  devised  a  harness  to  accomphsh  this. 
It  is  practically  the  same  as  the  safety  harness, 
with  the  addition  of  a  heavy  strap  similar  to  the 
Rarey  leg-strap,  which  is  attached  to  the  surcingle 


Fig.  65.  —  Rarey 's  throwing  harness,  first  position. 

on  the  left  side.  The  surcingle  is  put  on  as  before 
and  the  strap  buckled  about  the  right  pastern  only. 
One  end  of  the  rope  is  tied  in  the  ring  at  the  belly, 
the  free  end  passed  through  the  ring  at  the  right 
pastern,  then  the  rope  is  passed  up  through  one  of 


Throwing  the  Horse 


215 


the  rings  on  the  right  side,  then  on  up  and  over  the 
back,  and  the  harness  is  completed  (Fig.  64). 

When  ready  to  throw  the  horse,  first  strap  up  the 
left  foreleg  (Fig.  65).  Next  have  the  assistant  lead 
the  horse  a  step  forward  and  as  he  lifts  his  foot 
draw  it  up  against  the  breast  by  pulling  on  the  rope 
(Fig.  66).    Pull  steadily  on  the  rope;  if  the  horse  rears, 


Fig.  66.  —  Rarey's  throwing  harness,  second  position. 

keep  his  foot  drawn  up  and  he  will  come  down  on 
his  knees,  when  to  lay  him  down  is  simply  a  matter  of 
pushing  him  over  (Fig.  67).  Keep  pulling  on  the 
rope,  otherwise  he  may  surprise  you  by  quickly 
jumping  to  his  feet.  While  in  this  position  you  can 
do  anything  you  like.  Shoot  fire  crackers,  guns,  rat- 
tle cans,  run  up  to  him  with  an  automobile  or  trac- 
tion engine  or  the  like.     He  soon  learns  that  if  he 


216     Training  Wild  and  Subduing  Vicious  Horses 

remains  perfectly  quiet  he  will  not  be  injured. 
Many  excellent  horsemen  put  all  horses  through 
this  course,  as  it  tends  to  make  them  steady  in  case 
of   an   accident. 

Rope   throwing.  —  There    are   two    common   rope 


Fig.  67.  —  Rarey's  throwing  harness,  third  position. 


hitches  used  in  throwing  the  horse.  In  one  the 
rope  only  is  used,  while  in  the  other,  two  straps, 
about  one  foot  long  and  provided  with  buckle  and 
ring,  are  needed.  In  the  first  method  take  a  long 
rope,  double  it  at  the  middle  and  tie  a  knot  forming 
a  loop  about  three  feet  long.     Slip  this  loop  over  the 


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218     Training  Wild  and  Subduing  Vicious  Horses 

head  and  down  to  the  shoulder,  similar  to  a  col- 
lar. Pass  the  free  ends  down  between  the  front 
legs,  back  and  around  the  hind  pasterns  from  the 
outside,  then  up  and  through  the  loop  at  the  horse's 
shoulder.  Three  men  are  needed  to  use  this  appli- 
ance, two  to  pull  the  rope,  one  at  either  end  and  one 
to  hold  the  horse  (Fig.  68).  When  ready  let  the 
two  men  holding  the  rope  pull  vigorously,  which 
draws  the  horse's  hind  feet  under  him,  and  when  he 
goes  down  let  the  man  at  the  head  hold  it  firmly 
on  the  ground,  as  a  horse  with  his  head  flat  cannot 
get  up.  The  objection  to  this  method  of  throwing 
is  that  the  ropes  may  burn  the  hind  pasterns  as  the 
hind  legs  are  being  drawn  forward. 

In  the  second  hitch  secure  a  short  rope  about  five 
or  six  feet  long,  tie  a  large  loop  to  slip  over  the 
horse's  head  and  down  to  the  shoulders  as  in  the 
first  hitch.  Buckle  the  straps  around  the  hind 
pasterns.  Tie  a  rope  around  each  fore  pastern,  pass 
the  free  ends  back  and  through  the  rings  at  the 
hind  pasterns,  then  up  and  through  the  loop  at  the 
shoulders,  one  on  either  side,  and  then  backward 
(Fig.  69).  This  hitch  requires  three  men,  as  in  the 
first,  two  to  pull  the  rope,  one  at  either  end,  and 
one  at  the  head.  When  ready  have  the  men  pull 
strongly  on  the  ropes,  which  pulls  the  horse's  fore 
and  hind  feet  together  and  he  goes  down.  The  in- 
stant he  goes  down  the  man  at  the  head  should 
hold  it  flat  as  in  the  first  hitch.     This  has  the  ad- 


Galvayne^s  Tail-rope 


219 


vantage  that  there  is  no  danger  of  burning  the  pas- 
terns joints  with  the  ropes. 

Galvayne's  training  harness.  —  This  consists  simply 
of  an  appUance  for  tying  the  horse's  head  and  tail  to- 
gether so  that  he  will  go  round  and  round  until  he 
goes  down  or  becomes  steady.     It  was  devised  by 


Fig.  69.  —  Rope  and  ring  throwing  harness. 

Galvayne,  and  consists  of  a  tail-rope  provided  with 
a  loop  or  snap  so  as  to  be  readily  attached  to  the 
halter  or  lead  strap.  There  are  several  ways  of 
securing  the  tail-rope  to  the  tail.  Where  the  tail 
is  provided  with  long  hairs  it  may  be  tied  up  in  the 
ordinary  way  and  the  tail-rope  tied  into  the  loop 
similar  to  Fig.  88.     If  the  tail  has  been  docked  or 


220     Training  Wild  and  Subduing  Vicious  Horses 


contains  few  hairs,  this  cannot  be  done.  When 
such  is  the  case,  grasp  the  tail-rope,  double  it  at  the 
middle  and  pass  it  around  under  the  tail  from  left 
to   right,  and   through   the  doubled  part.     Pass  it 

down  the  tail  two  inches, 
then  back  around  from 
right  to  left  and  under 
the  rope  that  extends 
downward,  and  you  have 
a  tie  that  will  not  slip  if 
properly  attached  (Fig. 
70).  This  rope  may  be 
provided  with  a  snap 
which  may  be  snapped 
directly  into  the  halter 
ring,  or  in  the  absence  of 
the  snap  it  may  be  tied 
to  the  halter  (Fig.  71). 
This  is  a  very  effective 
appliance  for  subduing 
vicious  horses. 

The  difficulty  with  this 
harness  comes  when  we 
approach  the  vicious  horse's  hind  quarters  to  arrange 
the  tail-rope,  as  he  is  hkely  to  kick.  To  avoid  this 
danger  take  hold  of  the  halter  with  the  left  hand, 
near  the  head,  and  by  pulling  the  head  toward  you 
swing  the  horse  round  and  round,  making  yourself 
the  center  around  which  the  horse  revolves.     A  few 


Fig.  70. 


Method  of  securing  rope 
to  tail. 


Subduing  Appliances 


221 


sharp  turns  will  stupefy  him,  when  the  cord  may  be 
looped  about  the  tail  with  perfect  safety,  providing 
you  keep  the  head  turned  well  toward  you. 

Shackles.  —  These  are  sometimes  used  in  train- 
ing wild  western  horses.  This  appliance  consists  of 
a  strong  ring  about  four  inches  in  diameter,  to  which 
are  welded  four 
strong  chains 
about  eighteen 
inches  long  and 
provided  with 
heavy  straps, 
well  protected, 
at  the  other  ends 
to  buckle  around 
the  horse's  pas- 
terns. The  wild 
horse  is  snared 
(p.  225),  thrown, 
bound,  and  the 
shackles  buckled 
to  his  pasterns, 
and  then  he  is 
released  and  left  alone  to  thrash  it  out  with  the  shack- 
les until  he  calms.  This  appliance  should  be  made 
very  strong,  and  the  straps  going  around  the  pasterns 
should  be  well  protected,  otherwise  the  horse  will  in- 
jure himself. 

Straight-jacket.  —  This  appliance  is  also  used  in 


Fig.  71.  —  The  Galvayne  appliance  in  use. 


222     Training  Wild  and  Subduing  Vicious  Horses 

training  wild  and  vicious  horses.  It  consists  of  a 
strong  breast-band  and  breeching  provided  with 
a  heavy  ring  on  either  side  and  supported  by  two 


Fig.    72.  —  The   straight-jacket.     This    apphance   must   be   made   very- 
strong. 

straps,  one  passing  over  the  back  at  the  withers,  the 
other  in  front  of  the  hips.  The  breast-band  is 
lowered,  passing  around  the  forelegs  close  to  the 
chest,  while  the  breeching  is  lowered,  passing  around 
the  hind  legs  below  the  quarters.     At  first  the  breast- 


Training  the  Wild  or  Stubborn  Horse       223 

band  and  the  breeching  on  either  side  are  drawn 
tight  and  secured  by  a  strong  strap  or  rope  passing 
from  breast-band  to  the  breeching.  In  this  harness 
the  horse  can  make  but  slow  progress,  and  this  by 
low  and  very  fatiguing  jumps.  He  is  now  turned 
loose  to  get  used  to  the  restraining  harness,  which 
he  usually  does  in  about  one  quarter  of  an  hour. 
After  the  horse  has  calmed,  some  persons  take  a  long 
rope,  secure  it  in  the  ring  on  one  side  of  the  breech- 
ing, say  the  left,  then  pass  the  free  end  forward  and 
through  the  ring  on  the  left  side  of  the  breast-band, 
and  back  through  the  ring  at  the  breeching.  Next 
remove  the  straps,  securing  the  breast-band  and 
breeching  on  the  left  side.  Now  the  horse  can 
walk,  but  if  he  should  begin  to  jump  around,  all  they 
have  to  do  is  pull  on  the  rope,  which  compels  him 
to  make  the  short,  tiresome  jumps  as  before  (Fig.  72). 

TRAINING   THE    WILD    OR    STUBBORN    HORSE 

Having  considered  the  more  important  and  more 
useful  appliances  used  in  training  wild,  refractory 
and  stubborn  horses  we  will  pass  at  once  to  the 
education  of  these  classes  of  animals. 

Catching  a  wild  horse.  —  When  it  comes  to  train- 
ing the  wild  horse,  the  first  thing,  of  course,  is  to  get 
hold  of  him  and  to  get  our  training  appliance  at- 
tached. While  cowboys  and  ranchmen  do  this  with 
the  lasso,  only  a  few  of  us  can  manipulate  a  rope  so 


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Snaring  a  Wild  Horse  225 

dexterously,  and  besides,  the  method  is  not  consid- 
ered a  good  one  by  horse  trainers  generally,  as  it  often 
results  in  injury  to  the  animal.  To  catch  the  wild 
horse,  drive  him  into  a  small  inclosure.  It  is  a  very 
easy  matter  to  drive  a  wild  horse  if  gentle  horses 
are  turned  loose  with  the  wild  one  and  all  are  driven 
together.  Secure  a  soft,  three-eighths  inch  rope  and 
tie  a  running  loop  in  one  end.  Enter  the  inclosure 
with  the  horse.  He  will  try  to  get  away  by  running 
to  the  farthest  corner,  and  as  you  walk  in  one  direction 
he  will  walk  in  another.  Place  the  loop  upon  the 
ground  and  walk  the  horse  around  until  he  steps 
into  it  with  his  left  front  foot  (Fig.  73).  Pull  the 
rope  quickly,  so  that  it  will  slip  up  to  the  pastern, 
and  then  hold  fast.  When  the  horse  feels  the  rope 
on  his  pastern  he  will  try  to  shake  it  off,  but  do  not 
let  him,  for  once  he  gets  it  off  he  will  spend  half  his 
time  thereafter  trying  to  get  it  off  again.  Pull  his 
foot  toward  you  and  do  not  let  him  put  it  down 
squarely,  but  make  him  put  it  down  eight  to  ten 
inches  from  where  it  would  be  normally.  If  he  re- 
fuses by  shaking  his  head  and  running  about,  do  not 
punish  him,  but  pull  his  foot  again.  After  a  time 
he  will  become  tired  and  place  his  foot  at  the  place 
you  have  selected. 

After  the  horse  becomes  submissive  to  having 
his  foot  pulled  about,  approach  him  and  put  your 
hand  on  his  shoulder,  but  not  on  his  head.  If  he 
refuses  to  let  you  touch  his  shoulder,  pull  on  the 


226     Training  Wild  and  Subduing  Vicious  Horses 

rope.  If  he  struggles,  pass  behind  him,  bring  the 
rope  up  over  his  back  and  pull  his  left  foot  off  the 
ground  (Fig.  74).  He  will  soon  see  that  he  must 
choose  between  having  your  hand  on  his  shoulder 
and  his  foot  off  the  ground.     As  soon  as  he  becomes 


Fig.  74.  —  Gentling  a  loose  horse. 

submissive  to  having  his  shoulder  handled,  take  a 
position  standing  on  his  left  again,  gather  up  the 
rope,  keeping  it  tight  all  the  time,  so  the  horse  can- 
not get  it  off,  and  throw  it  over  his  back.  When  the 
rope  goes  over  his  back  he  will  run  out  from  under 
it,  but  pull  on  the  foot  as  before.  Again  he  must 
choose  between  having  the  rope  over  his  back  and 


Haltering  a  Wild  Horse  227 

having  his  foot  drawn  out  from  under  him.  While 
the  horse  is  doing  this  running  about,  you  stand  in  the 
center  of  the  inclosure  and  keep  him  on  the  outside. 
When  he  will  permit  the  rope  over  his  back,  bring 
the  free  end  under  his  body,  and  pass  it  in  front  of 
the  perpendicular  rope  leading  to  the  foot.  This 
is  important.  If  you  pass  the  free  end  behind  the 
rope  leading  to  the  foot  and  the  horse  should  suc- 
ceed at  any  time  in  getting  in  front  of  you,  it  would 
pull  off  over  his  tail  and  you  would  have  to  begin 
over  again. 

Now  you  have  a  hitch  somewhat  similar  to  the 
single  safety  (p.  208).  If  the  horse  starts  to  act  up, 
to  calm  him  pull  the  rope  which  holds  up  one  front 
foot.  As  soon  as  he  quiets  let  the  foot  down.  He 
rapidly  learns  that  he  must  choose  between  stand- 
ing quiet  and  having  his  foot  drawn  up.  As  he 
does  not  like  to  have  his  foot  suspended  he  will  let 
you  caress  him,  when  he  may  be  haltered  without 
risk. 

Haltering  a  loose  horse.  —  The  precautions  neces- 
sary to  be  taken  in  haltering  a  loose  horse  will  de- 
pend on  his  vice.  A  good  plan  for  haltering  one  not 
too  wild  is  as  follows.  Drive  him  into  a  small  square 
inclosure.  Have  a  long  pole  and  enter  the  inclosure 
with  him.  He  will,  of  course,  rush  into  the  farthest 
corner  and  try  to  get  away.  When  he  is  measur- 
ably quiet,  touch  him  gently  on  the  crest  with  the 
long  stick ;    as  a  horse  likes  to  have  the  top  of  the 


228     Training  Wild  and  Subduing  Vicious  Horses 


neck  rubbed,  this  has  a  quieting  effect.  Soon  he 
will  let  you  place  the  pole  anywhere  along  his  neck. 
Take  the  rope  halter  described  (p.  189),  twist  the 
chin  piece  three  times  around  the  end  of  the  pole, 
and  the  lead  rope  two  or  three  times  around  to  pre- 


FiG.  75.  —  Haltering  a  loose  horse,  first  position. 

vent  it  hanging  too  low.  Now  bring  the  crown- 
piece  of  the  halter  behind  the  ears  while  holding  the 
end  of  the  pole  slightly  above  the  forehead  (Fig.  75). 
Rapidly  bring  the  pole  down  in  front  of  the  horse's 
nose  and  then  under  the  lower  jaw,  which  brings 
the  halter  into  its  proper  place  (Fig.  76).     The  horse 


Handling  a  Wild  Horse 


229 


will  run  to  another  corner,  when  he  should  be  quieted 
with  the  pole  again  by  caressing  the  top  of  the  neck. 
Some  recommend  tying  the  lead  rope  to  a  chunk, 
and  permitting  the  horse  to  drag  it  around  on  the 
assumption  that  it  aids  in  teaching  him  to  lead. 
Gentling  the  wild  horse.  —  After  catching  the 
horse  and  before  proceeding  further,  it  is  necessary  to 


Fig.  76.  —  Haltering  a  loose  horse,  second  position. 

make  him  gentle  to  being  handled.  If  the  horse  is  a 
wild  one,  this  may  require  tact  and  patience,  par- 
ticularly to  get  him  to  submit  to  pressure  along  the 
back  of  the  forelegs,  the  front  of  the  hind  legs  and 
along  the  abdomen,  as  such  parts  are  very  sensi- 
tive. The  method  to  be  pursued  will  depend  on  the 
temper  of  the  horse.  If  he  will  submit  to  having 
the  top  of  his  neck  rubbed  with  a  long  pole,  the 


230     Training  Wild  and  Subduing  Vicious  Horses 

method  may  be  much  simpUfied  (p.  50).  If  he 
resents  all  efforts  while  standing,  then  he  should  be 
thrown,  bound  and  the  shackles  (p.  221)  attached, 
when  he  may  be  released  and  left  to  worry  himself 
fighting  the  appliance.  When  he  gives  in,  caress 
him  along  the  neck.  As  soon  as  he  will  let  you, 
offer  him  a  dainty,  as  a  carrot,  apple,  potato,  or 
sweets  of  some  kind.  At  first,  do  not  touch  his  ab- 
domen or  legs,  but  work  with  his  neck  and  body. 
Caress  him  often  and  he  will  soon  learn  that  you  do 
not  mean  to  hurt  him.  Keep  at  this  until  he  be- 
comes submissive.  The  next  day  repeat  the  entire 
process  if  need  be.  As  this  is  the  first  lesson  it  is 
important  that  the  wild  horse  thoroughly  understand 
it  before  proceeding  further.  Take  extra  care  to 
see  that  the  shackles  are  strong  and  well  protected,  so 
as  not  to  injure  the  animal's  pasterns.  Everything 
possible  must  be  done  to  teach  him  that  no  harm 
is  to  come  to  him  if  he  obeys^  therefore  the  harness 
must  not  chafe  his  legs. 

If  preferred,  either  the  Rarey  or  the  Galvayne 
method  may  be  used  in  the  gentling  process.  The 
left  front  foot  may  be  snared  and  held  up,  the  throw- 
ing harness  arranged  (p.  212)  and  the  horse  laid  on 
the  ground.  Begin  at  once  to  gentle  him  by  rubbing 
his  crest  and  giving  sweets  as  soon  as  he  will  take 
them.  After  he  becomes  docile  let  him  up  and  handle 
him  standing.  If  he  resists,  lay  him  down  again  and 
begin  over.     Soon  he  will  understand  that  he  must 


Leading  a  Wild  Horse  231 

choose  between  permitting  you  to  handle  him 
while  standing,  and  being  laid  on  the  ground  to  be 
handled  while  down.  If  it  is  desired  to  use  the 
Galvayne  method,  snare  the  foreleg  and  hold  it  up 
as  before,  while  you  arrange  the  tail-rope  and  at- 
tach it  to  the  lead-strap  (p.  219).  Now  let  the 
horse  loose  and  he  will  go  round  and  round  until 
he  becomes  stupefied.  Then  handle  the  crest,  and 
caress  as  before.  When  he  becomes  docile  remove 
the  tail-rope,  but  continue  to  handle  him.  If  he 
resists,  replace  the  tail-rope  and  let  him  go  around 
again.  After  a  few  repetitions  he  will  understand 
w^hat  is  wanted,  and  will  stand  quietly  while  you 
handle  any  part  of  his  body. 

Teaching  the  wild  horse  to  lead.  —  If  the  horse 
will  not  respond  to  any  of  the  methods  suggested 
heretofore  (pp.  37  and  52),  but  bucks,  rears,  runs 
or  balks,  then  more  severe  methods  must  be  adopted. 
Above  all  things  do  not  punish  him.  If  he  fights 
the  halter,  tie  the  lead-rope  to  a  heavy  chunk  and 
let  him  worry  himself  until  he  ceases  to  resist. 
Then  place  the  guy  rope  (p.  201),  to  be  held  by  an 
assistant,  on  his  head  and  attach  the  double  safety 
(p.  208).  Now  if  he  rears,  bucks,  runs  forward  or 
backward,  pull  his  front  feet  up  with  the  double 
safety  and  let  him  come  down  on  his  knees.  Af- 
ter a  few  hard  falls  he  will  stop  running  and  buck- 
ing, but  may  balk.  Do  not  lose  your  temper  and 
punish  him,  but  let  the  assistant  quickly  take  a  po- 


232     Training  Wild  and  Subduing  Vicious  Horses 

sition  ten  or  fifteen  feet  in  front  of  the  horse  and 
give  a  sharp  jerk  on  the  guy  rope  (Fig.  60).  Never 
pull  the  guy  rope  steadily.  At  the  jerk  the  horse 
will  move  forward,  and  if  he  goes  along  nicely  have 
the  assistant  walk  in  front,  and  do  not  trouble  his 
legs  with  the  safety.  If  at  any  time  he  acts  up, 
pull  him  to  his  knees,  or  if  he  balks,  have  the  as- 
sistant jerk  him  forward  with  the  guy  rope. 

If  the  horse  seems  very  active  and  you  find  it  nec- 
essary to  pull  him  to  his  knees  more  than  you  think 
b'est,  remove  the  safety  and  place  the  tail-rope 
(p.  219)  on  him  and  let  him  go  round  and  round  until 
he  becomes  stupefied.  Release  his  head,  replace 
the  double  safety  and  continue  as  before.  If  the 
horse  is  very  game,  put  the  throwing  harness  (p.  212) 
on  him  and  give  him  a  few  hard  falls.  After  a  few 
hard  falls,  after  being  stupefied  by  the  Galvayne 
method  a  few  times,  and  after  being  pulled  to  his 
knees  several  times,  the  most  vicious  of  horses  will 
get  the  idea  that  they  must  follow  where  you  wish 
or  suffer  accordingly.  Do  not  be  too  severe  in  this 
work,  and  when  the  horse  does  as  you  wish  caress 
him.  Be  firm,  give  him  to  understand  that  you  are 
his  master  and  that  he  must  do  as  you  command,  but 
when  he  does  obey  be  equally  as  sure  to  give  him  some 
evidence  of  your  pleasure. 

Sometimes  it  is  quite  a  struggle,  but  the  horse  con- 
quered in  this  way  usually  gives  right  up  and  sel- 
dom causes  further  trouble.     It  is  well,  however, 


Driving  a  Wild  Horse  233 

to  continue  the  use  of  the  double  safety  for  a  time, 
to  be  prepared  to  meet  any  emergency,  since  occa- 
sionally such  a  horse  does  act  up  without  giving 
warning  even  after  going  nicely.  Do  not  rush 
through  this  part  of  the  training,  but  give  the  horse 
sufficient  time  to  adjust  himself  to  the  new  conditions. 
As  soon  as  he  gets  the  idea  that  you  are  his  friend 
and  that  no  harm  is  to  come  to  him,  the  victory  is 
half  won. 

Teaching  the  ivild  horse  the  uses  of  the  hit  and  to 
drive  with  lines.  —  The  stubborn,  refractory  and 
wild  horse  should  be  taught  the  uses  of  the  bit  much 
the  same  as  suggested  for  the  work  horse  (p.  56) 
modifying  the  method  to  meet  the  needs  of  each 
individual.  Use  a  bridle  with  a  mild  bit  in  connec- 
tion with  the  bitting  harness.  If  the  horse  fights 
the  bit,  do  not  use  a  severe  one,  as  is  the  usual  prac- 
tice, but  try  a  bitless  bridle  for  a  time.  After  a  few 
lessons  in  the  bitting-harness  and  bitless  bridle,  try 
the  mild  bit  again.  Soon  he  will  cease  to  fight  it. 
Patience  on  the  part  of  the  horseman  is  the  prin- 
cipal requirement  in  training  a  wild  horse. 

After  the  horse  becomes  familiar  with  the  bit,  the 
side-reins  of  the  bitting-harness  may  be  substituted 
for  lines  preparatory  to  driving  and  teaching  the 
commands.  If  the  horse  promises  to  give  trouble, 
place  the  double  safety  (p.  208)  on  him  before  at- 
tempting to  drive  him,  so  as  to  be  prepared  to  steady 
him  should  he  attempt  to  act  up.     Have  an  assistant 


234     Training  Wild  and  Subduing  Vicious  Horses 

manage  the  safety  rope.  Now  teach  the  commands 
as  suggested  (p.  65).  If  the  animal  rears,  bucks  or 
runs  either  forward  or  backward,  pull  him  to  his 
knees  with  the  safety.  If  he  balks,  do  not  punish 
him,  but  put  the  guy  rope  (p.  201)  on  under  the  bridle, 
and  while  you  manage  the  safety  rope  and  lines 
have  the  assistant  jerk  him  forward.  If  he  is  very 
game  and  fights  too  long,  remove  the  harness  and 
attach  the  tail-rope  (p.  219),  and  let  him  go  round  and 
round  until  he  becomes  stupefied.  Release  his  head, 
replace  the  bitting  harness  and  double  safety,  and 
continue  with  the  commands.  With  the  wild  horse 
it  is  very  important  that  he  thoroughly  understand 
the  uses  of  the  bit  and  the  commands  before  attempt- 
ing to  hitch  to  a  vehicle. 

Teaching  the  wild  horse  to  drive  in  harness.  —  After 
the  horse  becomes  perfectly  familiar  with  the  uses 
of  the  bit  and  obedient  to  the  commands,  he  should 
be  harnessed  preparatory  to  hitching.  In  rendering 
him  submissive  to  the  harness  he  should  first  be 
poled  (p.  69).  If  he  resists,  attach  the  double 
safety  (p.  208),  pull  him  to  his  knees  and  continue 
the  poling  process,  or  if  preferred,  attach  the  tail- 
rope  (p.  219)  and  let  him  go  round  and  round  until 
he  becomes  stupefied,  and  then  continue  with  the 
pole  as  before.  As  soon  as  he  becomes  familiar  with 
the  pressure  of  the  pole,  harness  him.  If  he  bites, 
strikes  or  kicks,  use  the  appliance  suggested  (p.  251: 
and  292),  in  order  to  overcome  such  habits.     It  is 


Hitching  a  Wild  Horse 


235 


often  a  good  plan  to  remove  the  harness  and  replace 
it,  until  he  becomes  submissive  to  being  harnessed. 
After  harnessing  and  before  hitching  drive  him 
about,  guiding  him  to  the  right  and  left  and  putting 
him  through  the  various  commands.  Next  familiarize 
him  with  the  shafts  (p.  77).     Then  attach  the  double 


Fig.  77.  —  Method  of   arranging  the  double  safety  when  hitched  to  a 

vehicle. 

safety  and  hitch  him  to  the  rig  (Fig.  77).  If  he 
promises  to  give  trouble  it  is  well  to  attach  the  guy 
rope  (p.  201)  under  the  bridle  and  have  an  assistant 
manage  the  rope.  Now  if  he  acts  up  pull  him  to  his 
knees,  or  if  he  balks,  do  not  punish  him  but  have  the 
assistant  jerk  him  forward  with  the  guy  rope.  If 
he  offers  to  kick  attach  one  of  the  kicking  appliances 
(p.  202),  or  better  still,  attach  the  appliance  at  the 


236     Training  Wild  and  Subduing  Vicious  Horses 

time  of  hitching,  so  as  to  be  prepared  to  meet  any 
emergency  that  may  arise.  If  one  has  a  training 
cart  provided  with  long  shafts  and  the  appUance 
properly  arranged,  he  is  prepared  to  offset  anything 
the  horse  may  attempt.  If  he  rears,  bucks  or  runs 
either  forward  or  backward,  pull  him  to  his  knees; 
if  he  balks,  have  the  assistant  jerk  him  forward;  if 
he  attempts  to  kick,  the  kicking  appliance  will  re- 
strain him,  and  if  he  lies  down,  the  shafts  are  so  long 
that  no  injury  is  likely  to  result. 

If  the  horse  is  very  game  and  fights  incessantly, 
unhitch,  remove  the  harness,  then  attach  the  tail- 
rope  and  let  him  go  round  and  round.  If  this  ap- 
pliance has  been  applied  about  two  times  previous 
to  this,  keep  him  going  round  and  round  until  he 
drops.  Now  begin  over  again,  taking  the  same  pre- 
caution as  before.  If  he  insists  on  lying  down,  at- 
tach the  throwing  harness  (p.  212)  instead  of  tha 
tail-rope  and  give  him  several  severe  falls.  Then 
continue  as  before.  Such  treatment  will  bring  the 
most  incorrigible  animal  under  subjection.  He 
will  understand  soon  that  it  is  useless  to  resist,  as 
you  are  using  his  own  strength  to  steady  him.  It 
is  only  in  very  rare  cases  that  two  or  three  such 
lessQns  at  most  will  not  serve  to  subdue  the  horse. 

This  work  should  be  continued  daily  for  some 
months,  even  though  the  horse  does  seem  perfectly 
obedient.  It  is  necessary  to  teach  these  lessons 
very  thoroughly.     The  horse  has  been  running  wild 


Training  a  Wild  Horse  to  Noise  237 

up  to  this  age,  perhaps  he  has  seldom  seen  man  and 
then  only  to  be  punished  or  injured  by  him,  as  in 
corraUing,  branding  and  castrating.  During  the 
animal's  wild  life  he  has  learned  to  look  upon  man 
as  his  greatest  enemy  and  it  may  require  much  time 
and  patient  effort  to  gain  his  confidence.  After  he 
becomes  perfectly  obedient  in  single  harness,  hitch 
him  double,  much  as  suggested  (p.  84),  with  such 
alterations  as  are  necessary  to  insure  safety. 

Training  the  wild  horse  to  unfamiliar  objects  and 
to  noise.  —  While  in  general  the  wild  horse  is  not  so 
difficult  to  bring  under  subjection  by  the  methods 
herein  described,  he  is,  as  a  rule,  very  sensitive  to  un- 
familiar objects  and  to  noise,  though  occasionally 
one  will  find  a  wild  horse  that  seems  to  fear  no  objects 
other  than  men  and  dogs.  In  training  the  wild, 
refractory  or  stubborn  horse  to  objects  of  fear,  pursue 
much  the  same  course  as  suggested  in  training  the 
work  horse  (p.  85).  If  he  resists,  attach  the  double 
safety  (p.  208)  and  pull  him  to  his  knees  as  he  begins 
to  act  up,  but  continue  with  the  noise  as  suggested. 
If  preferred,  one  may  attach  the  tail-rope  (p.  219) 
and  continue  the  noise  as  the  horse  goes  round  and 
round.  Do  not  rush  through  the  work,  but  give  the 
animal  ample  time  to  become  familiar  with  the 
racket.  It  may  be  necessary  to  begin  the  noise  in 
the  distance  and  gradually  approach  him,  exercising 
due  care  when  the  sound  is  to  the  rear,  as  he  cannot 
see  its  source. 


238     Training  Wild  and  Subduing  Vicious  Horses 

If  the  horse  continues  to  resist  when  the  noise 
approaches  him,  attach  the  throwing  harness  (p.  212) 
and  lay  him  down.  Then  begin  the  noise  again, 
moving  round  and  round  him,  but  gradually  coming 
nearer,  until  at  last  the  noise  is  over  his  body  (Fig.  78). 
During  this  time  it  is  necessary  for  the  man  holding 


Fig.  78.  —  Familiarizing  the  wild  horse  with  strange  objects  and  with  noise. 

the  safety  rope  to  keep  it  tight,  or  the  horse  may 
surprise  him  by  bounding  to  his  feet.  After  the 
animal  becomes  perfectly  submissive  to  the  racket 
while  lying  on  the  ground,  let  him  up,  but  continue 
the  noise.  If  he  still  resists,  lay  him  down  again. 
Repeat  until  he  becomes  submissive  while  standing. 
Now  famiUarize  him  with  such  objects  as  bags 


Training  to  Unfamiliar  Objects  239 

lying  in  the  road,  robes  on  the  fence,  umbrellas  in 
women's  hands,  the  waving  of  flags,  and  the  firing  of 
crackers,  guns  and  the  like  in  much  the  same  man- 
ner. If  he  cannot  be  driven  or  coaxed  up  to  such 
objects,  lay  him  down  and  wave  the  objects  over  his 
head.  Repeat  until  he  will  walk  right  up  to  them 
and  feel  them  with  his  nose.  When  he  refuses  to 
be  driven  up  to  the  object  never  punish  him,  as  this 
only  frightens  him  all  the  more.  Either  put  the 
throwing  harness  on  him  and  lay  him  down,  then 
bring  the  object  to  him;  or  attach  the  tail-rope  and 
let  him  go  round  and  round  until  he  becomes  stupefied, 
and  then  bring  the  object  to  him  as  before.  Soon 
he  will  understand  that  he  must  either  face  the  object 
of  his  fear  when  asked  to  do  so  or  be  placed  on  his 
back  and  have  the  object  brought  to  him.  When 
he  faces  the  object  be  sure  to  caress  him,  to  help  fix 
the  idea  that  he  is  not  going  to  be  injured. 

To  familiarize  the  wild  horse  with  the  automobile, 
place  the  double  safety  and  guy  rope  (p.  201)  on  him 
and  approach  the  machine,  standing,  preferably  in  the 
training  inclosure.  Make  him  walk  right  up  to  it 
and  touch  it  with  his  nose,  or  if  he  refuses  to  do  this 
lay  him  down  and  run  the  machine  up  to  him. 
After  he  becomes  familiar  with  it  while  not  in  mo- 
tion have  it  started  while  he  stands  near  by.  Stop 
it  and  drive  him  up  to  it  again.  Keep  the  horse 
following  the  machine  in  this  way  until  he.  becomes 
steady.     Next  turn  the  machine  around  and  have 


240     Training  Wild  and  Subduing  Vicious  Horses 

him  meet  it;  if  he  becomes  frightened,  stop  it  and 
drive  him  up  to  it  again.  Repeat  until  he  will  let 
the  machine  pass  first  to  his  left  and  then  to  his 
right;  each  time  drive  him  directly  up  to  it  as  it 
passes.  Now  that  he  will  pass  the  automobile  on 
either  the  right  or  left,  have  the  machine  come  slowly 
from  the  rear.  Do  not  pass  too  closely,  but  keep  it 
well  to  the  other  side  of  the  road.  As  it  passes,  drive 
slowly  up  to  it.  Gradually  increase  the  speed  of 
the  machine  and  have  it  pass  on  both  the  right  and 
left  side  of  the  horse.  Now  stand  the  horse  while 
the  automobile  is  being  driven  around  him,  thus 
famiharizing  him  with  it  at  all  angles. 

In  familiarizing  the  wild  horse  with  steam  or  elec- 
tric cars,  pursue  the  same  general  course  suggested 
for  the  work  horse  (p.  89).  If  he  is  very  refractory, 
do  not  attempt  the  work  hitched  to  a  vehicle.  At- 
tach the  double  safety  and  the  guy  rope,  then  pro- 
ceed as  suggested  for  the  work  horse.  Do  not  hurry 
about  this  part  of  the  work  and  do  not  punish  the 
horse  in  case  he  acts  up.  After  he  gets  fairly  well 
accustomed  to  the  cars,  then  hitch  to  a  vehicle  and 
begin  over  again.  To  avoid  risk,  leave  the  double 
safety  and  guy  rope  on  the  horse.  If  he  rears,  bucks 
or  runs  either  forward  or  backward  pull  him  to  his 
knees,  and  if  he  balks,  have  an  assistant  jerk  him  for- 
ward with  the  guy  rope.  Continue  the  work  until 
he  becomes  perfectly  reconciled  to  the  cars  from 
before  and  behind  and  from  either  side. 


Avoid  Confusing  the  Wild  Horse  241 

In  a  similar  manner  familiarize  the  wild  horse 
with  any  and  all  objects  and  noise  that  cause  him 
fright.  Be  very  quiet  about  the  work  and  employ 
every  means  in  your  power  to  secure  the  animal's 
confidence.  Once  he  learns  that  he  can  trust  you 
and  that  he  can  go  wherever  you  command  without 
risk,  the  victory  is  won.  After  that  you  will  have  no 
trouble  in  driving  him  past  unfamiliar  objects,  noise, 
and  in  fact  anywhere  you  may  wish  him  to  go.  On 
the  other  hand,  if  3^ou  are  careless,  punishing  him 
when  frightened  or  when  confused,  and  permitting 
him  to  get  injured,  he  will  lose  confidence  in  you  and 
resist  your  every  effort  to  train  him.  It  is,  therefore, 
of  the  utmost  importance  that  the  wild,  refractory 
and  stubborn  horse  be  treated  gently,  yet  firmly; 
that  he  be  asked  to  do  nothing  unreasonable,  but 
that  he  be  made  to  do  whatever  is  attempted  and 
then  caressed  by  giving  a  dainty,  as  a  carrot,  apple, 
potato  or  sweets  for  doing  as  you  wish. 

SUBDUING   THE    VICIOUS   HORSE 

There  are  a  few  horses,  fortunately  a  very  few, 
that  do  not  seem  to  respond  to  any  method  of  train- 
ing. Perhaps  the  most  historic  case  of  which  we 
have  record  is  that  of  the  wild  horse  ''Cruiser."  It 
was  the  training  or  subduing  of  this  horse  that  made 
Rarey  famous.  This  horse  fought  every  effort  of 
man   to   overcome   him.     Punishment   only   served 

R 


242     Training  Wild  and  Subduing  Vicious  Horses 

still  further  to  increase  the  rebellious  state  of  his 
mind.  He  was  known  as  the  ^'man-eater,"  and  suc- 
cessfully resisted  all  attempts  to  bring  him  under 
subjection  until  Rarey  succeeded  in  taming  him  by 
means  of  his  throwing  and  safety  harness.  In  re- 
ality this  horse  was  never  trained,  but  had  to  be 
tamed  by  the  Rarey  appliance  whenever  he  was 
required  for  use.  Hence  the  statement  often  made 
by  horsemen  that  they  can  train  any  horse,  no  mat- 
ter how  vicious,  is  absurd.  There  are,  however, 
only  a  few  horses  of  this  class.  The  great,  majority 
of  them  can  be  rendered  subservient  to  man's  will  if 
the  proper  means  are  employed. 

In  the  subduing  of  the  vicious  horse  it  is  difficult 
to  give  general  advice  that  will  be  of  value,  as  each 
individual  must  be  dealt  with  according  to  his  pe- 
culiarities. The  requirements  on  the  part  of  the 
trainer  are  patience,  perseverance  and  tact,  but  of 
greater  importance  than  any  of  these  is  an  innate 
love  for  the  work.  It  is  essential  to  be  cool-headed, 
and  never  fly  into  a  rage  and  punish  the  animal,  as 
such  treatment  only  serves  to  increase  his  determina- 
tion not  to  submit  to  man's  will.  There  are  more 
horses  made  vicious  by  ill  treatment  than  from  all 
other  causes  combined. 

In  the  training  of  the  vicious  horse,  the  first  thing 
is  to  get  hold  of  him.  This  can  usually  be  done  by 
snaring  (p.  225).  For  the  next  step  one  may  choose 
between  two  appliances,  the  throwing  harness  (p.  212) 


The  Vicious  Horse  243 

and  the  tail-rope  (p.  219),  attaching  whichever  the 
exigencies  of  the  case  will  permit.  In  case  the  throw- 
ing harness  is  attached,  you  must  be  prepared  for 
a  struggle,  as  the  horse  may  resist  every  move.  He 
may  bite,  strike  and  kick ;  he  may  go  to  his  knees 
and  rear  up  and  leap  forward,  refusing  to  leave  the 
ground  with  his  hind  feet ;  he  may  kick  while  on  his 
knees,  or  he  may  bite,  and  kick  with  either  or  both 
hind  feet  while  lying  on  the  ground.  If  he  does  this, 
however,  you  may  be  sure  he  will  soon  wear  himself 
out.  On  the  other  hand,  while  he  may  fight  des- 
perately on  his  feet,  he  may  be  quiet  while  down,  thus 
saving  his  energy  to  wTeak  vengeance  when  he  re- 
gains his  feet. 

If  you  succeed  in  attaching  the  tail-rope  instead 
of  the  throwing  harness,  he  may  bite,  strike  and  kick 
as  he  goes  round  and  round,  or  he  may  go  round  a 
few  times,  then  drop  to  his  knees  and  refuse  to  get 
up  until  his  head  is  released.  If  you  should  free 
him,  however,  he  may  be  even  more  ferocious  than 
before.  Whichever  appliance  you  succeed  in  at- 
taching, keep  working  at  him  until  he  goes  down. 
While  down  make  him  submit  to  the  most  severe 
tests  that  you  can  give,  such  as  the  rattling  of  tin 
pans,  ringing  of  sleigh  bells,  grinding  of  horse  fiddles, 
firing  of  firecrackers,  shooting  of  guns,  sounding  of 
automobile  gongs  and  the  like.  After  he  becomes 
perfectly  submissive  to  this  let  him  regain  his  feet, 
but  keep  the  appliances  attached.     If  he  begins  to 


244     Training  Wild  and  Subduing  Vicious  Horses 

act  up,  repeat  the  entire  process,  this  time  making 
even  more  noise  than  before,  covering  him  with  old 
papers,  waving  robes  over  his  head,  opening  um- 
brellas in  front  of  his  eyes  and  doing  everything  in 
your  power  to  excite  him.  After  he  becomes  submis- 
sive while  down,  let  him  regain  his  feet  and  continue 
with  the  noise  and  strange  objects.  Continue  this 
until  he  becomes  perfectly  reconciled.  Unless  he  is 
indeed  a  demon  he  will  unconditionally  surrender. 
When  he  gives  in,  caress  him  and  give  him  a  dainty 
to  assure  him  that  as  long  as  he  obeys  your  wish  he 
will  be  treated  kindly. 

As  a  rule,  it  is  not  a  good  plan  to  continue  this 
battle  for  more  than  two  hours,  and  perhaps  better 
results  would  be  secured  from  one.  In  the  first  place, 
this  is  exceedingly  hard  work  for  a  man  and  he  will 
probably  be  exhausted  after  one  hour's  struggle,  and 
in  the  second  place  the  horse  ceases  to  resist,  not 
because  he  is  conquered,  but  because  he  too  is  ex- 
hausted. The  horse  that  ceases  to  fight  because  he 
is  exhausted  will  put  up  just  as  severe  a  battle  when 
he  gets  rested  as  he  did  in  the  beginning.  What  we 
must  do  is  conquer  him  and  impress  him  with  his 
helplessness  when  in  our  power.  Therefore,  if  the 
battle  is  not  won  at  the  end  of  one  hour's  severe 
struggling,  declare  a  truce  until  the  next  day.  Repeat 
the  entire  process  as  on  the  first  day.  When  he 
surrenders,  put  him  through  a  similar  course  as  that 
suggested  in  training  the  wild  and  stubborn  horse. 


Subduing  the  Vicious  Horse  245 

The  course  suggested  is  a  combination  of  the 
Rarey  and  Galvayne  methods  and  is  a  very  effective 
one.  Many  vicious  horses  have  been  subdued, 
hitched  and  driven  in  less  than  two  hours'  time.  It 
is  so  effective  because  it  impresses  the  horse  so 
forcibly  with  his  utter  helplessness,  and  uses  his  own 
energy  to  overcome  him. 


CHAPTER   VII 
OUTDOOR   VICES  AND  WHIMS 

Broadly  speaking,  the  chief  cause  of  all  the  bad 
habits  of  a  horse  is  poor  management  at  some  stage 
of  his  career.  Such  habits  may  have  been  formed 
during  colthood,  when  the  youngster  is  very  sensitive 
to  his  surroundings,  and  when  he  is  only  too  often 
made  to  do  things  that  seem  ^'cute."  In  later  life 
these  very  things  may  serve  to  lessen  his  usefulness. 
They  may  be  formed  during  the  training  period ; 
frequently  the  animal's  mouth  is  spoiled  by  the  use  of 
a  severe  bridle-bit  or  an  improperly  fitting  one ;  and  his 
shoulders,  back  and  tail  are  made  exceedingly  sensi- 
tive to  pressure  by  improperly  fitting  harness;  or 
simply  by  lack  of  proper  training.  Again,  such 
habits  may  be  due  solely  to  the  inability  of  the 
horse  to  do  that  which  is  required  of  him.  This 
may  depend  on  some  unknown  physical  impediment 
that  makes  it  impossible  for  the  horse  to  act  as  we 
desire.  It  is  seldom  if  ever  that  a  horse  is  really 
born  vicious.  While  it  may  be  true  that  temper  is 
transmitted,  and  that  certain  tempers  are  more  pre- 
disposed than  others  to  develop  vice,  yet  vice  itself 
is  not  a  hereditary  character. 

246 


Establishing  New  Habits  247 

Of  all  the  kinds  of  vice,  treachery  and  stubbornness 
are  the  most  difficult  to  overcome,  as  animals  pos- 
sessing them  often  deliberately  oppose  our  efforts. 
Vice  due  to  nervousness  or  impatience  can  be  readily 
overcome,  as  the  cause  soon  passes  away.  Vice  due 
to  excessive  sexual  excitement  is  often  very  difficult 
to  overcome.  Castration  or  spaying  is  the  most 
efficient  means  for  overcoming  vice  from  sexual 
causes.  Very  rarely,  one  will  meet  with  a  vicious 
horse  which  seems  to  have  the  source  of  viciousness 
in  an  unsound  mind.  Such  an  animal,  of  course,  can- 
not be  subdued. 

Since  vice  owes  its  origin  to  many  and  varied 
causes,  it  is  important  to  study  each  case  to  ascertain 
the  cause  and,  if  possible,  remove  it.  In  overcoming 
or  subduing  vice  we  must  establish  a  new  habit  that 
will  have  a  stronger  influence  on  the  horse's  mind 
than  the  old  one  which  impairs  his  usefulness.  At 
first  it  will  be  largely  a  question  of  supremacy,  and 
we  must  impress  upon  him  that  we  are  physically 
and  mentally  superior.  From  the  beginning  we 
must  use  such  appliances  as  will  give  us  the  advan- 
tage. This  can  be  accomplished  in  two  ways :  first 
by  the  employment  of  such  appliances  as  will  use 
the  animal's  strength  in  overcoming  him,  and  second 
by  the  use  of  self-punishing  harness,  which  will  in- 
flict the  punishment  at  the  instant  he  violates  our 
wish.  He  must  be  given  to  understand  that  he  is 
to  obey  us  or  suffer  accordingly.     Next  we  must 


248  Outdoor  Vices  and  Whims 

impress  him  with  the  fact  that  we  are  his  friend. 
This  can  be  accomphshed  by  feeding  him  a  dainty 
when  he  obeys  our  commands.  To  aid  in  securing 
his  confidence  we  should  abstain  from  all  forms  of 
punishment  likely  to  cause  him  pain.  While  the 
use  of  the  self-punishing  harness,  by  which  he  deals 
out  his  own  punishment,  is  recommended,  yet  we 
should  never  use  the  whip  or  spur  in  overcoming 
vice,  as  the  pain  thus  inflicted  provokes  further 
rebellion. 

Perhaps  the  most  efficient  means  for  punishing 
the  horse  in  overcoming  vice  is  by  humiliating  him, 
as  this  seems  to  have  a  greater  effect  than  any  form 
whereby  he  is  caused  pain.  There  are  three  com- 
mon methods  of  humiliating  the  proud  and  vicious 
horse :  first  by  pulling  him  to  his  knees  and  holding 
him  there  until  he  becomes  calm;  second  by  tying 
his  head  and  tail  together  and  letting  him  go  round 
and  round  until  he  becomes  stupefied;  and  third  by 
throwing  him  to  the  ground  and  holding  him  down 
until  he  gives  in.  The  great  advantage  of  each  of 
these  is  that  they  do  not  cause  the  horse  physical 
pain. 

We  may  divide  bad  habits  into  two  general  classes  : 
vice  and  whims  ;  the  former  comprising  the  more 
serious  moral  defects,  and  the  latter  imperfections  of 
less  importance. 


Causes  of  Balking  249 

OUTDOOR    VICES,    THEIR    CAUSE    AND    HOW   TO    OVER- 
COME   THEM 

Balking.  —  This  is  a  vice  in  which  the  horse  re- 
fuses to  obey  the  commands  of  his  master.  It  varies 
in  degree,  sometimes  the  animal  merely  refusing  to 
go  in  a  certain  direction  or  along  certain  roads  and 
to  pass  certain  objects ;  sometimes  refusing  to  go 
to  the  right,  to  the  left,  forward  or  backward,  and 
at  other  times  stopping,  notwithstanding  the  driver's 
energetic  efforts  to  get  him  to  go ;  or  he  may  lie  down 
and  refuse  to  get  up. 

The  causes  which  excite  the  horse  to  balking  are 
manj^  and  varied,  chief  of  which  are  sore  mouth,  due 
to  a  poorly  fitting  bit  or  bridle ;  sore  shoulders  and 
neck,  due  to  dirty  or  improperly  fitting  collar,  to 
excessive  weight  on  the  collar  or  to  backing ;  sore 
back,  due  to  poorly  fitting  harness ;  sore  tail,  due  to 
dirty  or  improperly  fitting  crupper ;  overloading ; 
exhaustion;  and  to  discontent  with  the  treatment  of 
the  driver. 

As  balking  seems  to  be  largely  a  nervous  trouble, 
it  is  useless  to  punish  the  horse;  in  fact,  such  treat- 
ment only  increases  the  difficulty.  First  of  all  we 
must  divert  the  animal's  attention  from  his  fixed 
determination  not  to  obey.  In  mild  cases  this  can 
be  accomplished  by  quietly  arranging  the  collar  or 
bridle,  by  giving  a  bite  of  grass,  or  by  picking  up  one 
front  foot  and  gently  tapping  the  shoe  as  if  there  were 


250  Outdoor  Vices  and  Whims 

something  wrong,  which  serves  to  attract  the  animal's 
attention,  when  he  will  move  on  without  further 
trouble. 

The  confirmed  balker,  however,  must  be  put 
through  a  more  strenuous  course,  as  he  is  not  to  be 
out-generaled  in  any  such  manner.  Before  attempt- 
ing to  overcome  the  vice,  see  that  he  thoroughly  un- 
derstands and  is  obedient  to  the  commands.  It  is 
not  possible  to  make  much  progress  until  he  obeys 
such  commands  as  ^'whoa,"  ^^ get-up"  and  the  like. 
If  he  does  not  know  these  simple  commands,  teach 
them  to  him  much  as  suggested  in  training  the  wild 
horse  (p.  233).  Do  not  rush  through  this  part  of  the 
work,  but  make  him  thoroughly  obedient. 

Now  that  the  horse  is  perfectly  obedient  to  the 
commands,  harness  him,  and  with  both  the  guy  rope 
(p.  201)  and  double  safety  (p.  208)  attached,  hitch  him 
to  a  vehicle.  Have  an  assistant  manage  the  guy 
rope  while  you  drive  and  tend  the  double  safety. 
Drive  the  horse  first  in  the  training  inclosure  and 
then  in  the  open  field,  continuing  the  commands. 
If  he  shows  any  tendency  to  balk,  such  as  laying 
back  his  ears,  looking  to  the  rear  and  the  like,  give 
the  command  ^^whoa"  at  once,  and  before  he  has 
time  to  stop  of  his  own  accord.  This  will  serve  to 
nonplus  him.  In  starting,  the  assistant  should 
quickly  take  a  position  in  front  of  the  horse  and 
smartly  jerk  him  forward  with  the  guy  rope  (Fig.  60) 
at  the  same  instant  you  give  the  command  '^ get-up." 


Overcoming  a  Balking  Horse  251 

As  a  signal  you  should  snap  the  whip  to  the  right, 
but  without  touching  the  animal,  as  the  command 
is  given.  In  a  similar  manner  repeat  the  process  of 
stopping  and  starting  three  or  four  times.  Do  not 
wait  until  the  horse  gets  stubborn,  but  use  the  guy 
rope  and  use  it  severely,  on  the  slightest  intimation 
that  the  animal  does  not  want  to  go  when  com- 
manded. Continue  this  work  for  half  an  hour  each 
day  for  three  or  more  consecutive  days,  unless  the 
horse  shows  by  his  submission  that  he  is  willing  to  do 
as  you  wish. 

If  the  horse  is  rather  game  and  fights  the  guy  rope, 
unhitch  him,  attach  the  throwing  harness  (p.  212) 
and  lay  him  down.  While  down,  snap  the  whip  to 
the  right  and  left  and  over  his  body  but  do  not  touch 
him.  After  he  becomes  submissive,  let  him  up  and 
proceed  as  before.  If  desired,  the  tail-rope  (p.  219) 
may  be  used  and  the  animal  made  to  go  round  and 
round  until  he  goes  down.  While  down,  snap  the 
whip  about  him,  then  let  him  up  and  proceed  as 
suggested. 

During  this  training  process,  rely  less  and  less  on 
the  appliance  and  more  and  more  on  the  lines,  whip 
and  voice.  The  object  should  be  to  dispense  with 
the  guy  rope  and  double  safety  as  soon  as  possible. 
This  can  be  accomplished  gradually  by  attaching 
the  guy  rope  to  the  bit  and  lastly  by  removing  it  al- 
together. It  is  a  good  plan,  however,  to  carry  the 
appliance  for  some  time.     Should  he  refuse  to  go, 


252  Outdoor  Vices  and  Whims 

upon  arriving  at  a  special  place  or  circumstance  that 
formerly  caused  him  to  balk,  give  him  a  severe  les- 
son. After  a  few  such  lessons  there  should  be  no 
further  trouble.  If  at  any  time  the  horse  seems 
confused,  stop  him  at  once  by  the  command  ''whoa." 
Then  as  you  give  the  command  ''get-up,"  snap  the 
whip  at  his  right.  This  serves  to  remind  him  of 
his  former  lessons  in  subjection  and  he  will  obey 
your  command. 

Occasionally  one  meets  with  a  very  stubborn 
horse  that  lies  down  and  refuses  to  get  up.  In  such  a 
case  something  must  be  done  to  attract  the  animal's 
attention.  Some  persons  advise  violently  blowing 
the  breath  into  his  ear  and  at  the  same  time  striking 
him  a  severe  blow  across  the  hind  quarters  with  the 
whip.  This  seems  to  nonplus  the  horse  and  he  leaps 
to  his  feet  at  once.  Another  plan  is  to  pour  a  pint 
of  water  into  the  animal's  nose  while  you  hold  his 
nose  up.  Such  treatment  diverts  his  attention  and 
he  bounds  to  his  feet. 

Jibbing.  —  This  is  a  vice  in  which  the  horse  re- 
fuses to  go  in  a  certain  direction  though  he  may  be 
perfectly  willing  to  go  in  some  other  one.  In  America 
the  habit  is  usually  classed  with  balking,  while  in 
England,  where  it  is  considered  a  more  serious  vice 
than  balking,  it  is  always  classed  separately.  The 
causes  that  tend  to  produce  it  are  very  similar  to 
those  that  produce  balking. 

To  overcome  the  vice  it  is  first  essential  that  the 


Teaching  a  Vicious  Horse  to  Turn  253 

horse  be  trained  thoroughly  to  the  uses  of  the  bit, 
to  the  commands,  and  more  especially  to  guide  to 
the  right  and  to  the  left.  In  teaching  these  lessons, 
proceed  as  suggested  for  the  balker  (p.  249).  If  the 
horse  refuses  to  go  in  any  desired  direction,  pull  him 
to  his  knees  and  hold  him  there  until  he  calms.  If 
he  refuses  again,  have  the  assistant  take  up  a  posi- 
tion in  the  direction  you  desire  to  go,  and  as  you  pull 
the  line  have  him  jerk  the  horse  in  the  desired  direc- 
tion with  the  guy  rope.  If  the  horse  is  game  and 
still  resists,  remove  the  double  safety,  attach  the 
throwing-harness  and  lay  him  down,  holding  him 
there  until  he  becomes  aware  of  his  helpless  position 
and  gives  in.  Try  again  as  before.  If  he  still  re- 
fuses, attach  the  tail-rope  and  stupefy  him.  Free 
his  head  and  proceed  as  before.  This  alternate 
lying  down  and  going  round  and  round  soon  con- 
vince the  most  incorrigible  horse  of  his  absolute 
helplessness. 

If  the  horse  viciously  refuses  to  turn  in  a  certain 
direction,  say  to  the  left,  lay  him  down  on  the  right 
side  with  the  throwing  harness,  then  place  a  rope 
halter  on  his  head,  pull  his  head  around  on  his  left 
shoulder,  and  secure  the  lead-rope  to  the  tail  in  such 
a  manner  as  to  hold  his  head  over  his  left  shoulder. 
Keep  him  in  this  position  a  few  minutes,  but  watch 
him  closely  to  see  that  he  does  not  injure  himself, 
as  he  will  struggle  violently  to  regain  his  feet.  When 
he  becomes  submissive  free  his  head,  let  him  up  and 


254  Outdoor  Vices  and  Whims 

proceed  with  the  bitting  as  suggested.  This  treat- 
ment seldom  if  ever  fails  to  have  the  desired  effect. 

As  soon  as  the  horse  thoroughly  obeys  the  com- 
mands and  reins,  hitch  him  to  a  vehicle  and  continue 
the  work.  If  he  seems  obstinate,  pull  him  to  his 
knees;  if  this  does  not  suffice,  unhitch  him,  alternately 
lay  him  down  and  make  him  go  round  and  round 
until  he  falls.  As  a  rule,  one  half  hour  of  such  treat- 
ment for  three  consecutive  days  will  overcome  the 
most  stubborn  case. 

Kicking.  —  This  is  a  very  dangerous  vice,  though 
formerly  it  was  the  horse's  principal  means  of  de- 
fense. While  the  horse  usuallv  kicks  backward 
with  one  or  both  hind  legs,  he  can  kick  outward  and 
forward  like  a  cow,  to  reach  an  object  near  his  fore- 
legs. The  causes  which  excite  the  horse  to  kick  are 
very  numerous,  chief  of  which  are  touching  him  in 
some  tender  place,  as  the  tail  over  the  line,  the  cross- 
piece  of  the  vehicle  striking  his  quarters  and  the 
causes  named  above  for  provoking  the  horse  to  balk 
(p.  249) .  Lack  of  proper  training  is  also  an  important 
cause.  The  horse  that  is  not  properly  educated  to 
pressure,  as  suggested  in  poling  (p.  69),  is  the  most 
likely  to  develop  the  kicking  habit;  thus  if  a  horse 
kicks  because  he  gets  his  tail  over  the  line,  or  the 
cross-piece  strikes  his  quarters,  it  indicates  that  his 
hind  quarters  were  not  properly  educated. 

In  training  to  overcome  the  habit  of  kicking,  give 
the  horse  a  thorough  course  in  poling.     Attach  the 


Overcoming  a  Kicking  Horse  255 

double  safety  (p.  208)  and  guy  rope  (p.  201),  or  some 
prefer  the  war  bridle  (p.  191)  to  the  guy  rope.  At 
first  refrain  from  touching  the  hind  legs  until  you 
are  satisfied  that  progress  has  been  made.  As  soon 
as  he  will  let  you  rub  the  body  as  far  back  as  the 
quarters  without  any  indication  or  disposition  to 
kick,  then  pass  the  pole  gently  toward  the  hocks. 
If  he  shows  a  disposition  to  kick,  work  the  pole  up 
toward  the  quarters,  then  begin  to  work  down  gradu- 
ally as  before.  If  possible  do  not  entirely  remove 
the  pole  from  the  horse.  Continue  until  he  becomes 
submissive.  If  during  the  poling  lesson  he  offers 
to  resist,  pull  him  to  his  knees  and  continue  the  work. 
If  he  is  exceedingly  game,  attach  the  thro  wing-har- 
ness (p.  212),  lay  him  on  the  ground  and  pole  him 
while  down.  When  he  becomes  submissive  while 
down,  let  him  up  and  continue  the  poling  as  before. 
After  his  hind  legs  are  submissive,  crupper  him  as 
suggested  (p.  70),  employing  the  appliance  if  neces- 
sary to  control  him. 

Now  harness  the  horse,  arranging  the  breast-band 
and  breeching  rather  loosely  and  placing  the  traces 
through  the  rings  on  the  breeching,  so  that  the  ends 
will  flap  about  the  hind  legs  and  quarters.  If  he 
resents  the  pressure  from  the  loose  harness  and  kicks, 
stop  him  instantly  and  attach  the  war  bridle  and 
double  safety,  or  better  still,  attach  the  appliance 
at  the  time  of  harnessing  if  the  animal  promises  to 
give  trouble.     Now  try  him  again,  and  if  he  kicks, 


256  Outdoor  Vices  and  Whims 

give  the  command  ^'steady"  and  pull  him  to  his 
knees  rather  severely.  Hold  him  in  this  position 
until  the  excitement  passes  away.  Continue  the 
process  until  he  submits. 

Next  take  two  long  poles,  secure  one  end  of  each 
on  either  side  at  the  shaft  tug,  and  allow  the  other 
end  to  drag  on  the  ground  behind  the  horse.  Now 
drive  him  about,  and  if  he  offers  to  kick,  command 
^^ steady,"  and  if  he  continues,  pull  him  to  his  knees 
and  hold  him  there  a  moment.  If  he  fights  this 
appliance  too  much,  attach  the  thro  wing-harness  and 
lay  him  down  or  use  the  tail-rope  (p.  219)  to  stupefy 
him.  After  he  becomes  submissive  to  the  poles  drag- 
ging on  either  side  of  him,  then  place  them  between 
his  hind  legs  and  continue  as  before.  Care  should  be 
exercised  at  this  time,  for  the  animal  may  injure  him- 
self. Do  not  continue  to  drive  him  with  the  poles 
between  the  hind  legs,  for  the  poles  will  rub  the  legs 
sore.  If  he  resents  this  or  kicks,  give  him  the  same 
treatment  as  before.     Continue  until  he  submits. 

If  the  horse  is  a  very  stubborn  and  confirmed 
kicker,  if  he  bucks  as  well  as  kicks,  or  if  he  has  a  tend- 
ency to  get  his  head  down  on  his  breast  so  as  to 
render  the  lines  ineffective,  then  attach  the  kicking 
reins  (p.  202)  instead  of  common  lines.  These  reins 
provide  good  leverage  and  are  very  efficient  in  con- 
trolling such  a  horse. 

After  the  horse  becomes  perfectly  submissive  to 
the  poles  dragging  both  on  the  outside  and  between 


Causes  of  Shying  257 

his  hind  legs,  he  should  be  hitched  to  a  vehicle.  At 
first  the  double  safety  and  war  bridle  should  be  re- 
tained and  one  of  the  kicking  appliances  suggested 
(p.  202)  should  be  provided,  so  as  to  be  able  to  meet 
any  emergency.  If  the  horse  shows  any  tendency 
to  kick,  give  the  command  ^^ steady"  and  pull  him  to 
his  knees.  Repeat  this  two  or  three  times,  and  about 
the  fourth  time,  instead  of  using  the  safety  rope,  give 
the  animal  a  severe  set-back  with  the  lines  by  having 
the  left  line  tight  and  giving  a  severe  pull  with  the 
right.  This  gives  him  the  impression  that  you  have 
the  same  power  over  him  with  the  lines  that  you  have 
with  the  safety  rope.  Continue  this,  removing  the 
ropes  as  soon  as  it  is  safe,  though  they  should  be 
carried  along  for  some  time. 

Shying.  —  This  is  a  very  dangerous  habit  and 
usually  results  from  two  causes,  a  natural  nervous 
or  timid  temperament  and  defective  eyesight.  As 
the  latter  is  beyond  the  field  of  the  trainer,  requiring 
the  attention  of  a  veterinary  surgeon,  we  will  not 
consider  it  here.  We  are  more  especially  interested 
in  shying  as  the  result  of  a  nervous  temperament, 
as  much  can  be  done  to  overcome  it  if  the  proper 
means  are  employed.  With  this  class  of  horses  the 
habit  is  largely  due  to  improper  handling.  Perhaps 
no  other  single  cause  results  in  so  much  shying  as 
the  improper  use  of  the  whip.  The  timid  horse 
comes  to  some  object  that  frightens  him,  and  true  to 
his  instinct  he  pauses,  or  he  may  notice  the  object 
s 


258  Outdoor  Vices  and  Whims 

just  as  he  gets  even  with  it,  and  again,  true  to  his  na- 
ture, he  jumps  in  an  endeavor  to  get  away.  In  either 
case,  instead  of  permitting  the  horse  to  get  acquainted 
with  the  object,  the  driver  takes  the  whip  and  by 
punishing  the  animal  forces  him  past  and  may  con- 
tinue the  punishment  long  after  the  object  is  passed. 
It  is  in  some  such  way  as  this  that  the  habit  of 
shying  is  formed. 

The  very  nervous  horse  will  sometimes  shy  at  the 
most  trifling  objects  and  no  doubt  occasionally  im- 
agine the  object  of  his  fright.  The  sudden  rustling 
of  the  leaves  or  a  piece  of  paper  caused  by  the  wind, 
stumps,  stones,  logs,  pools  of  water,  flashing  light 
and  the  like  are  common  objects.  The  automobile, 
electric  and  steam  cars  and  the  traction  engine  often 
excite  the  horse  to  shy.  Few  horses  are  so  steady 
but  that  they  will  show  alarm  at  a  pig  that  runs 
and  grunts,  particularly  after  night.  Whatever  the 
cause  of  the  horse's  fear,  he  must  be  made  familiar 
with  it  and  taught  that  it  will  do  him  no  harm. 

To  overcome  the  habit  of  shying  it  is  absolutely 
necessary  that  the  horse  understands  and  obeys  the 
commands.  Next  familiarize  him  with  strange  ob- 
jects, as  suggested  for  the  work  horse  (p.  85)  and 
the  wild  horse  (p.  237) .  After  working  with  a  rather 
familiar  object,  as  old  papers,  which  were  suggested 
for  the  work  horse,  then  take  an  object  that  causes 
the  animal  special  fear  and  with  the  appliances  sug- 
gested  for   the  wild  horse  thoroughly  educate  the 


Restoring  Confidence  259 

timid  horse  that  such  objects  cannot  do  him  injury. 
Do  not  rush  through  this  work,  but  give  him  ample 
time  to  adjust  himself  to  the  new  condition.  After 
he  is  perfectly  familiar  with  this  special  object,  take 
another  and  repeat  the  lesson.  To  inspire  confi- 
dence in  your  commands,  caress  him  often  and  soon 
he  will  go  any  place  you  wish. 

Now  that  he  has  learned  to  face  strange  objects 
and  has  confidence  that  you  will  not  ask  him  to  do 
that  which  will  cause  him  injury,  you  are  ready  to 
hitch  him  to  a  vehicle.  For  the  first  few  times  leave 
the  safety  ropes  attached.  If  convenient,  drive  him 
past  some  object  that  formerly  caused  him  special 
fright.  As  you  approach  the  object,  caress  him  with 
voice  and  whip  to  assure  him  that  no  injury  is  to 
come  to  him.  Drive  up  on  the  opposite  side  of  the 
road  until  a  few  feet  in  front  of  the  object,  then  face 
him  toward  it,  and  stop  at  the  command  ^^whoa, "  if 
necessary  using  the  safety  to  assure  him  that  you 
have  perfect  command.  Now  make  him  walk  right 
up  and  feel  it  with  his  nose  as  you  did  the  objects 
in  the  training  paddock.  As  he  moves  toward  it, 
caress  him  to  give  him  confidence.  If  at  any  time 
you  wish  to  square  him,  pull  his  head  away  from  the 
object,  as  this  straightens  the  head  and  neck  and 
gives  much  better  control.  To  leave  the  object, 
carefully  pull  the  horse  away  with  the  line  farthest 
from  it  and  give  the  command  '^ get-up."  Should  he 
show  alarm,  immediately  stop  him  at  the  command 


260  Outdoor  Vices  and  Whims 

'^whoa"  and  allow  him  to  stand  until  he  becomes 
steady.  If  he  seems  frightened,  turn  around  and 
approach  the  object  as  before.  Continue  this  pro- 
cess until  the  timid  horse  will  face  everything  that 
formerly  caused  him  fright,  and  shows  no  fear  either 
in  approaching  or  leaving. 

Running  away.  —  This  is  a  vice  in  which  the  horse 
usually  breaks  suddenly  into  a  gallop  and  rushes 
forward  with  all  the  speed  of  which  he  is  capable. 
Once  started  he  seemingly  no  longer  sees,  hears  or 
smells.  Blind  to  objects  likely  to  injure  him,  deaf 
to  threats,  insensible  to  blows  and  to  pulling  on  the 
bit,  he  no  longer  realizes  danger.  Efforts  made  to 
stop  him  only  serve  to  increase  his  fright  and  he 
stops  only  when  utterly  worn  out  in  strength  and 
wind,  or  when  he  is  checked  by  colliding  with  a  tele- 
phone pole,  fence  or  vehicle. 

The  habit  often  results  from  bad  education,  such 
as  the  improper  use  of  the  bit,  or  from  the  use  of 
severe  bits  which  destroy  the  natural  sensitiveness, 
and  from  vicious  tempers.  It  is  excited  in  much  the 
same  manner  as  shying.  On  the  other  hand,  one 
will  occasionally  meet  with  what  seems  to  be  an  ex- 
tremely gentle  and  high-spirited  horse  that  is  addicted 
to  this  habit,  due  to  some  internal  impulse  not  clearly 
understood.  In  such  cases  it  is  probably  lack  of 
exercise,  and  when  the  horse  is  driven  he  becomes 
intoxicated  at  the  chance  to  extend  himself.  He 
begins  as  in  play,  but  soon  ^4oses  his  head"  and  be- 


Overcoming  a  Runaway  Horse  261 

comes  deaf  to  all  restraint.  It  often  happens  that 
the  driver  removes  the  bridle  to  give  the  horse  a 
drink  by  the  roadside.  This  is  an  unsafe  practice, 
as  the  horse  may  become  frightened,  especially  if  he 
is  driven  with  blinds,  as  removing  them  increases 
the  range  of  his  vision  and  he  sees  objects  in  the 
rear  which  he  had  not  noticed  before,  and  in  his  ex- 
citement runs  away. 

To  overcome  the  habit  of  running  away,  it  is  neces- 
sary to  put  the  horse  through  much  the  same  course 
as  in  balking,  kicking  and  shying  (p.  249).  First 
of  all  make  him  thoroughly  obedient  to  the  com- 
mands and  uses  of  the  bit.  After  familiarizing  him 
with  objects,  such  as  papers,  flags,  umbrellas,  robes 
and  the  like;  and  to  sound,  as  pans,  sleigh-bells, 
steam  cars  and  the  firing  of  guns,  hitch  him  to  the 
vehicle  with  the  safety  ropes  attached.  After  driv- 
ing him  about  for  a  time,  give  him  the  opportunity 
to  run  away.  When  he  gets  down  to  a  good  run 
command  "steady"  and  begin  to  restrain  his  front 
feet  with  the  ropes.  Slacken  him  gradually  until 
slow  enough  to  permit  a  sudden  stop,  then  give  the 
command  "whoa"  and  bring  him  to  his  knees.  For 
this  work  it  is  necessary  to  pad  the  knees  (Fig.  27), 
otherwise  he  will  injure  them.  Repeat  this  a  couple 
of  times,  and  about  the  third,  instead  of  using  the 
safety  rope  to  bring  him  to  his  knees,  give  him  a  se- 
vere set-back  with  the  lines  by  having  the  left  line 
tight  and  giving  a  severe  pull  with  the  right,  thus  giv- 


262  Outdoor  Vices  and  Whims 

ing  him  the  impression  that  you  have  the  same  power 
with  the  Hnes  that  you  have  with  the  safety  rope. 
Continue  this  work,  driving  him  past  objects  that 
formerly  excited  him  to  run,  until  perfectly  submissive. 
Running  back.  —  Thi^  is  a  very  dangerous  habit, 
as  the  horse  may  cramp  the  vehicle  and  upset  it, 
thus  throwing  the  occupants  to  the  ground,  or  he 
may  back  into  other  vehicles,  or  people  passing  by 
or  the  hke.  The  causes  which  provoke  a  horse  to 
run  back  are  quite  numerous,  chief  of  which  are  im- 
proper training  to  back,  and  inexperienced  or  un- 
skillful drivers.  The  habit  is  not  uncommon  among 
spirited  horses,  in  which  it  is  often  provoked  in  the 
following  way.  As  the  horse  approaches  some  ob- 
ject to  which  he  has  not  been  properly  trained,  say 
an  automobile,  he  slackens  his  speed  at  the  strange 
sight;  the  driver  at  once  becomes  frightened  and 
begins  to  pull  back  on  the  lines.  The  horse,  of  course, 
thinks  this  means  to  go  backward,  and  as  he  starts  to 
obey,  the  driver  strikes  him  severely  with  the  whip. 
Now  the  animal's  confusion  is  complete;  he  is  re- 
strained in  front  by  the  pressure  of  the  bit,  and  spurred 
on  behind  by  the  blows  from  the  whip,  with  the  ob- 
ject of  his  fear  approaching  him,  and  to  avoid  the 
strange  object  he  backs  up,  as  best  he  can.  To 
avoid  all  such  trouble,  teach  the  horse  to  have  con- 
fidence in  the  driver,  and  train  the  animal  to  all  such 
objects  before  driving,  or  at  least  abstain  from  pun- 
ishing him  at  both  ends  simultaneously. 


Teaching  to  Back  263 

To  overcome  the  habit,  be  sure  that  the  horse  is 
obedient  to  the  commands.  Then  with  the  double 
safety  rope  (p.  208)  attached,  command  him  to  back. 
After  backing  a  few  steps,  command  him  to  stop, 
and  at  the  same  time  pull  him  to  his  knees.  Con- 
tinue this  until  he  understands  that  ^^whoa"  means 
to  stop,  whether  going  forward  or  backward.  Now 
hitch  him  to  a  vehicle  and  put  him  through  the  same 
course.  Next  drive  him  to  some  object  that  for- 
merly provoked  the  habit  and  repeat  the  process. 
It- is  a  good  plan  to  carry  the  safety  rope  for  a  time, 
and  if  he  promises  to  repeat  the  habit  attach  the 
rope  and  pull  him  to  his  knees  at  the  command 
^^whoa"  as  before. 

Difficult  to  hack.  —  Occasionally  a  horse  will  be 
met  with  that  resists  all  efTorts  to  get  him  to  back; 
he  stiffens  his  muscles,  stretches  his  forefeet  for- 
ward and  his  hind  feet  backward,  and  will  often  lie 
down  on  his  belly  in  an  effort  to  keep  from  backing. 
This  habit  results  from  confusion  at  the  time  of 
teaching  the  horse  to  back.  He  has  perhaps  been 
punished  at  both  ends  and  lies  down  in  an  effort  to 
escape  his  tormentors.  In  overcoming  this  habit, 
attach  the  pulley  bridle  (p.  193)  under  the  leather 
bridle,  and  take  a  position  near  the  horse's  left  shoul- 
der while  an  assistant  holds  the  lines.  Now  as  you 
give  the  command  ^^back"  have  the  assistant  give 
a  severe  see-saw  pull  on  the  lines  and  simultaneously 
give  a  sharp  jerk  on  the  pulley  bridle.     This  will 


264  Outdoor  Vices  and  Whims 

surprise  the  horse  and  he  will  take  a  step  backward, 
when  he  should  be  caressed.  Do  not  ask  him  to  back 
very  far  at  a  time,  and  caress  him  for  doing  as  you 
wish.  Repeat  the  process  until  he  will  obey  the 
lines  and  voice,  remove  the  pulley  bridle  and  con- 
tinue with  the  lines  until  he  will  obey  the  voice  alone. 

Rearing  and  plunging.  —  Since  these  habits  are 
somewhat  similar,  they  will  be  considered  together. 
Both  invariably  result  from  defective  training  and 
are  usually  traceable  to  bad  mouthing.  They  are 
provoked  in  much  the  same  manner  as  balking,  kick- 
ing and  the  like  (p.  249).  In  overcoming  either  vice, 
first  train  the  horse  to  the  proper  uses  of  the  bit 
(pp.  56  and  134).  This  may  require  patience  and  tact, 
but  is  essential  in  overcoming  such  habits.  If  the 
mouth  has  lost  its  natural  sensitiveness  by  the  use  of 
harsh  bits,  use  the  Yankee  bridle  (p.  189)  in  the  bitting 
process.  As  soon  as  he  understands  the  uses  of  the 
bit,  teach  him  the  commands.  By  the  proper  appli- 
cation of  the  double  safety  (p.  208)  in  pulling  him  to 
his  knees  every  time  he  rears  or  plunges,  he  should 
be  taught  the  meaning  of  the  command  ^'whoa" 
so  very  thoroughly  that  he  will  stop  and  stand  quietly 
at  the  command. 

Now  with  the  Yankee  bridle  and  double  safety  still 
attached,  hitch  him  to  a  vehicle  and  continue  as  be- 
fore. Each  time  he  starts  either  to  run  or  plunge, 
give  the  command  ^^whoa"  and  bring  him  to  his 
knees.     Hold   him   down   until   he   quiets.     About 


Overcoming  a  Nervous  Horse  265 

the  third  time,  instead  of  using  the  safety  give  him 
a  severe  set-back  with  the  Hnes,  to  impress  him  that 
you  have  the  same  power  with  the  Hues  as  with  the 
rope.  Now  drive  him  to  those  objects  that  formerly 
caused  him  to  rear  and  plunge,  and  continue  until 
he  becomes  perfectly  submissive  and  quiets  at  the 
command.   , 

Breaking  and  prancing.  —  Occasionally  a  high- 
spirited  but  nervous  horse,  because  of  his  eagerness 
to  go  forward,  becomes  addicted  to  the  habit  of 
breaking  and  prancing  when  we  wish  him  to  walk  or 
trot.  This  often  becomes  very  aggravating  and 
may  lead  to  more  serious  vice,  as  he  is  especially 
liable  to  rear  and  throw  his  head  up  and  down.  To 
overcome  the  habit,  attach  the  double  safety  (p.  208) 
and  thoroughly  educate  him  to  the  commands,  es- 
pecially to  the  term  ^^ steady."  If  he  seems  very 
game,  apply  the  throwing-harness  (p.  212)  and  lay 
him  down  until  he  becomes  quiet,  or  if  preferred 
attach  the  tail-rope  (p.  219)  and  stupefy  him.  When 
he  becomes  obedient  to  the  commands  and  will  walk 
or  trot  as  you  like,  then  hitch  him  to  a  vehicle,  and 
continue  the  work  as  before.  The  horse  that  is  exer- 
cised regularly  is  less  likely  to  acquire  such  habits 
than  one  that  stands  in  the  stable  much  of  the  time. 

Switching  tail.  —  Some  horses  have  the  very 
aggravating  habit  of  constantly  switching  the  tail. 
The  causes  for  this  are  quite  numerous  and  much 
the  same  as  in  producing  kickers  (p.  254).     In  fact, 


266  Outdoor  Vices  and  Whims 

the  switching  of  the  tail  indicates  a  predisposition 
to  kick.  To  overcome  the  habit,  put  the  horse 
through  the  course  suggested  to  overcome  kicking. 
While  such  a  course  may  seem  long  and  tedious, 
it  is  essential,  as  both  kicking  and  switching  the  tail 
are  due  to  vicious  tempers,  and  the  horse  must  be  sub- 
dued before  either  habit  can  be  permanently  overcome. 

There  are  several  appliances  that  are  very  effective 
in  preventing  the  horse  from  switching  his  tail,  par- 
ticularly in  the  case  of  a  mild-tempered  animal. 
Secure  a  strap  about  one  inch  wide  and  of  sufficient 
length  to  reach  from  the  crupper  to  the  breeching. 
On  one  end  have  a  loop  made  so  that  the  crupper  can 
be  run  through  it.  On  the  other  end  arrange  a 
buckle  so  the  end  may  be  buckled  around  the  breech- 
ing. This  end  should  be  buckled  rather  loosely,  so  as 
to  permit  it  to  slide  easily  on  the  breeching.  Get 
two  short  straps,  of  sufficient  length  to  buckle  around 
the  tail  under  the  hair,  and  sew  these  crossways  of 
the  former  strap,  the  upper  one  about  four  inches 
from  the  top  loop  and  the  second  four  inches  below 
the  upper.  With  the  former  strap  placed  around 
the  crupper,  under  the  tail  and  buckled  to  the  breech- 
ing, buckle  the  two  short  straps  around  the  tail  under 
the  hair,  and  you  have  an  appliance  that  will  keep  the 
horse  from  switching  the  tail  far  enough  to  catch  the 
lines  (Fig.  79). 

Another  appliance  that  is  fairly  effective  in  pre- 
venting the  horse  from  switching  his  tail  is  made  as 


Anti-switching  Appliance  267 

follows :  Secure  a  piece  of  leather  about  five  inches 
wide  and  about  as  long  as  the  tail-bone.  At  one 
end  of  this  attach  a  crupper,  at  the  other  sew  a  bag 
sufficiently  large  to  hold  two  pounds  of  shot,  and 
about  four  inches  apart  near  the  middle  attach  two 
short  straps  at  right  angles  to  the  broad  leather  band 
to  buckle  about  the  tail.  Fill  the  bag  with  shot, 
suspend  it  under  the  tail  and  buckle  the  crupper  to 
the  back-band  and  the  small  straps  about  the  tail- 


FiG.  79.  — Anti-switching  appliance,  in  the  form  of  crupper  and  breeching. 

bone,  and  you  have  an  appliance  that  cannot  be 
seen,  as  well  as  one  that  will  prevent  the  horse  from 
switching  his  tail.  Still  another  plan  for  preventing 
the  horse  from  catching  the  lines  with  his  tail  is  to 
gather  part  of  the  hair  a  little  above  the  end  of  the 
tail-bone,  extend  toward  the  tug  on  either  side  and 
tie  securely  by  means  of  a  string.  Thus  by  drawing 
the  tail  down  tight  the  animal  is  unable  to  switch  it. 
Some  prefer  to  take  a  strap,  attach  it  to  the  hip-strap, 
pass  it  around  the  quarters,  and  secure  the  tail  to  it 
(Fig.  80).  This  arrangement  is  objected  to  because 
it  is  exposed  to  view,  although  it  is  very  efficient  in 
preventing  the  animal  from  switching  his  tail.     Now 


268 


Outdoor  Vices  and  Whims 


we  may  gently  lower  the  line  on  either  side,  and 
gradually  accustom  the  animal's  hind  quarters  to 
the  slight  pressure  of  the  lines,  and  eventually  he  will 
cease  switching  his  tail  when  the  lines  touch  his 
quarters. 

Tail  over  line.  —  Occasionally  a  horse  will  be  met 
with  that  becomes  very  much  excited  when  he  gets 
his  tail  over  the  line.     He  clamps  the  line  so  firmly 

beneath  his  tail  that  it  is  freed 
with  great  difficulty  and  often 
not  without  injuring  the  tender 
parts,  which  may  provoke  kick- 
ing, backing  or  running  away. 
WTiile  there  are  many  causes 
for  this  habit  the  two  chief 
ones  are  improper  training, 
particularly  the  cruppering, 
and  tender  tail,  the  result  of  irritating  sores  pro- 
duced by  poorly  fitting  harness.  The  tight,  dirty 
crupper  causes  a  sore  tail  and  the  line  by  some  chance 
gets  under  the  tail  and  into  the  sore,  causing  the  horse 
much  pain.  This  he  remembers  always  and  when 
the  line  gets  under  the  tail  he  thinks  only  of  the  pain 
it  once  gave  him,  aiid  hence  the  excitement. 

To  overcome  this  habit,  carefully  pole  the  tail  as 
suggested  in  poling  the  work  horse  (p.  69)  and  in 
overcoming  kicking  (p.  254).  Do  not  rush  through 
the  work,  but  give  the  horse  sufficient  time  to  become 
familiar  with  the  pressure  of  the  pole.     With  the 


Fig.  80.  —  Hip-strap  anti- 
switching  appliance. 


Quieting  a  Horse  with  Tail  over  Line       269 

pole  work  back  toward  the  tail  very  gradually,  and 
if  he  shows  much  excitement  slip  the  pole  up  his 
back  and  then  start  toward  the  tail  again.  Con- 
tinue this  work  until  he  becomes  perfectly  subixdssive. 
Raise  the  tail  and  place  the  pole  from  buttock  to 
buttock  under  the  tail.  As  much  care  should  be  used 
in  removing  the  pole  as  in  placing  it  under  the  tail. 

After  he  becomes  perfectly  familiar  with  the 
pressure  of  the  pole,  with  the  double  safety  still 
attached,  place  the  harness  on  him  and  drive  him 
about  the  paddock,  managing  to  get  the  line  under 
the  tail.  If  he  shows  excitement,  quiet  him  at  the 
command  ''steady,"  as  in  poling.  If  he  refuses  to 
quiet,  go  over  him  again  with  the  pole.  Soon  he 
will  learn  that  the  line  is  no  more  Ukely  to  cause 
him  pain  than  the  pole.  When  he  becomes  sub- 
missive to  the  line  under  his  tail,  he  may  be  hitched 
to  a  vehicle  and  the  work  continued  as  before. 

Halter-pulling.  —  This  is  a  very  aggravating  habit 
and  one  that  is  easily  acquired.  It  is  usually  due  to 
faulty  training,  the  horse  being  tied  up  by  the  head 
before  being  educated  to  the  pressure  of  the  halter. 
The  strange  object  on  his  head  annoys  him  and  he 
tries  to  shake  it  off,  and  faihng  in  this  he  tries  to  free 
himself  by  puUing.  Now  he  finds  himself  in  a  trap 
and  becomes  frantic  in  his  efforts  to  get  free.  The 
pressure  of  the  halter  hurts  his  head  and  he  may  pull 
so  hard  as  to  deform  the  face  lines  or  injure  his  neck, 
or  he  may  break  the  strap  that  secures  him ;  in  any 


270 


Outdoor  Vices  and  Whims 


event,  the  foundation  for  a  confirmed  halter-puller 
is  laid,  and  in  the  future  he  will  pull  at  the  least  provo- 
cation. To  avoid  this,  faroiharize  him  with  the  pres- 
sure of  the  halter  before  tying. 

To  overcome  the  habit    of  halter-pulling,   or  to 
train  the  horse  to  stand  tied,  secure  a  half-inch  rope 


Fig.  81.  —  Loin-hitch  to  overcome  the  habit  of  halter-puUing. 

about  fifteen  feet  long  and  tie  a  loop  that  will  not 
run  in  one  end.  Place  the  rope  about  the  horse's 
body  just  in  front  of  the  hips  with  the  loop  under  the 
abdomen  and  run  the  free  end  through  the  loop,  then 
forward  between  the  forelegs,  up  through  the  ring 
at  the  halter,  then  around  a  solid  post  and  back  and 
tie  into  the  ring  at  the  halter  (Fig.  81).     Now  excite 


Overcoming  a  Halter-pulling  Horse  271 

the  horse  to  pull.  The  instant  he  feels  the  pressure 
about  the  body  he  bounds  forward  and  stands  close 
to  the  post.  To  avoid  any  possibilities  of  his  pulling 
in  the  future,  with  an  umbrella,  flag  or  other  strange 
object  force  him  back  into  the  rope  rapidly  so  as  to 
cause  him  sufficient  pain  to  fix  it  in  his  mind.  Since 
it  is  natural  for  him  to  flee  from  pain,  he  springs  for- 
ward to  relieve  himself  from  the  pain  around  the 
body.  After  two  or  three  such  pulls  he  will  crowd 
the  post  so  closely  that  a  string  will  probably  hold 
him  as  securely  as  a  chain. 

Occasionally  one  will  meet  with  a  confirmed 
halter-puller  that  is  reluctant  to  give  up.  He  will 
go  back  into  the  rope,  and  notwithstanding  the  pain 
about  his  body  he  pulls  stubbornly.  He  may  pull 
until  he  falls  and  spring  to  his  feet  and  try  again. 
After  he  struggles  for  a  time,  force  him  back  into 
the  rope  severely  by  tapping  him  across  the  nose 
with  the  whip.  This  throws  him  into  the  rope  with 
such  force  as  to  increase  the  pain  about  the  body 
which,  coupled  with  the  fright  caused  by  the  whip 
at  the  nose,  never  fails  to  bring  him  forward.  Caress 
him  and  treat  him  kindly  while  he  stands  by  the  post. 
Should  he  start  to  pull  again,  force  him  into  the  rope 
severely  as  before  but  as  soon  as  he  comes  forward, 
caress  him.  After  a  few  such  struggles  it  will  be 
difficult  to  get  him  away  from  the  post.  Three  or 
four  lessons  on  as  many  days  will  overcome  the  most 
stubborn  of  halter-pullers. 


272  Outdoor  Vices  and  Whims 

This  treatment  is  sometimes  recommended  for 
the  horse  that  balks.  He  is  first  tied  to  a  post  and 
forced  back  into  the  rope  until  he  learns  its  use  and 
to  spring  forward  as  it  presses  him.  Then  he  is 
hitched  by  the  side  of  a  gentle  horse  with  the  halter- 
pulling  rope  still  about  his  body,  and  the  other, end 
is  tied  to  the  hame  of  the  gentle  horse.  It  should  be 
tied  of  such  length  as  to  cause  no  pressure  so  long  as 
the  balker  walks  along  even  with  the  other  horse, 
but  the  instant  he  refuses  to  go  the  pressure  is 
brought  to  bear  about  the  body,  when  he  springs 
forward  as  at  the  post. 

In  overcoming  the  habit  of  halter-pulling,  some 
horsemen  think  they  get  better  results  from  slightly 
different  hitches.  Some  prefer  to  tie  a  stationary 
loop  in  one  end  of  the  rope  sufficiently  large  to  go 
about  the  tail  similar  to  a  crupper,  passing  the  free 
end  forward  through  the  turret  at  the  top  of  the  sur- 
cingle, then  through  the  ring  at  the  halter  on  to  the 
post  and  back,  and  tie  to  the  ring  at  the  halter  (Fig. 
82).  Now  when  the  horse  pulls  back,  the  pressure 
is  brought  to  bear  at  the  tail,  a  very  sensitive  part, 
and  he  springs  forward  as  before.  Other  horsemen 
prefer  to  tie  one  end  of  the  rope  about  a  pastern, 
some  choosing  a  fore  pastern,  others  a  hind  one,  then 
pass  the  free  end  of  the  rope  through  the  ring  at  the 
halter  and  on  to  the  post,  then  back  to  the  halter  and 
tie  as  before.  With  this  hitch  when  the  horse  pulls, 
he  jerks  one  leg  out  from  under  him,  which  surprises 


Familiarizing  with  Whip  and  Spur  273 

him  so  greatly  that  he  soon  ceases  to  pull  back. 
Whichever  one  of  these  hitches  is  employed,  it  is 
important  to  force  the  horse  back  into  the  ropes 
until  he  fully  understands  that  pulhng  back  causes 


Fig.  82.  —  Tail-hitch  to  overcome  the  habit  of  halter-puUing. 

him  pain,  thus  associating  the  act  of  pulling  back 
with  pain.  To  avoid  the  pain  he  ceases  to  pull  back. 
Unsteady  under  whip  or  spur.  —  While  this  ner- 
vousness or  impatience  is  not  a  vice,  it  is  very 
aggravating  to  drive  a  horse  that  will  not  permit  a 
whip  to  be  held  over  his  back,  or  to  ride  one  that  will 
not  obey  the  spurs.     This  is  particularly  true  in  the 


274  Outdoor  Vices  and  Whims 

saddle  horse  as  the  spurs  are  used  in  perfecting  the 
gaits.  To  overcome  this  habit,  pole  the  horse  much 
as  suggested  for  kicking  (p.  254).  After  he  becomes 
perfectly  familiar  with  the  pole  applied  to  any  part 
of  the  body,  then  take  the  whip  and  rub  it  over  him 
in  a  similar  way.  If  he  resists,  attach  the  throw- 
ing harness,  lay  him  down  and  rub  him  with  the 
whip ;  when  he  becomes  steady,  let  him  up  and  con- 
tinue as  before.  Repeat  until  he  becomes  thor- 
oughly submissive  to  the  whip  and  will  let  you  flick 
it  about  his  body. 

To  overcome  the  habit  of  resisting  the  use  of  the 
spurs  give  special  attention  to  poling  the  flanks, 
then  touch  him  gently  with  the  blunt  spur  and  next 
with  the  rowel.  If  he  resists,  lay  him  down  and 
familiarize  him  with  it  on  the  ground,  caressing  him 
frequently.  When  he  becomes  steady,  let  him  up 
and  continue  the  work  until  he  becomes  submissive. 

Difficult  to  mount.  —  Some  horses  are  exceedingly 
difficult  to  mount.  While  this  habit  may  be  due  to 
many  causes,  the  two  chief  ones  are  improper  train- 
ing and  tender  or  sore  back.  In  the  latter  case,  the 
first  thing  to  do  is  to  heal  the  sore.  To  overcome 
the  habit  when  due  to  lack  of  training  or  nervousness, 
give  the  horse  a  thorough  lesson  in  submission. 
Attach  the  thro  wing-harness  (p.  212),  lay  him  down 
and  hold  him  there  until  he  becomes  quiet,  then 
place  an  empty  bag  across  his  body.  After  he 
becomes  accustomed  to  the  empty  bag,  fill  it  half 


Mounting  a  Difficult  Horse 


275 


full  of  earth  and  replace  it.  As  soon  as  he  becomes 
submissive  to  the  half-filled  bag,  let  him  up  and 
replace  it  while  standing,  and  secure  it  so  he  cannot 
get  it  off  his  back.  Drive  him  about  for  a  time.  If 
he  acts  up,  at- 
tach the  double 
safety  (p.  208), 
and  pull  him  to 
his  knees.  As 
soon  as  he  goes 
steady  with  the 
bag  on  his  back, 
remove  it,  saddle 
him  and  mount. 
If  he  resists,  at- 
tach the  tail- 
rope  (Fig.  83) 
and  make  him 
go  round  until 
he  drops.  Free 
his  head,  and 
while  in  this  stu- 
pefied condition  he  will  stand  as  you  mount.  Caress 
him  for  doing  as  you  wish.  Some  horsemen  recom- 
mend placing  the  tail-rope  under  the  saddle-girth 
and  mounting  as  the  horse  goes  round  and  round. 
While  this  is  a  good  plan  it  is  somewhat  dangerous 
unless  you  are  a  good  horseman  and  can  ride  in  a 
small  circle  or  dismount  quickly  in  case  the  horse  falls. 


Fig.  83.  —  Galvayne  tail-rope,  arranged  to  over- 
come the  horse  difficult  to  mount. 


276  Outdoor  Vices  and  Whims 

Buck-jumping.  —  This  is  a  very  dangerous  vice  of 
riding  horses.  Sometimes  they  buck  and  run  away 
as  horses  in  harness  do.  They  get  their  chins 
down  on  their  breasts,  arch  their  backs  and  bound, 
buck  or  jump  along  in  such  a  way  that  it  requires 
an  expert  rider  to  remain  in  the  saddle.  To  over- 
come this  habit,  put  the  horse  through  a  similar  course 
to  that  suggested  above  for  the  horse  difficult  to 
mount.  Spend  much  time  in  driving  him  about 
with  the  bag  of  earth  secured  to  his  back  and  the 
double  safety  attached.  Each  time  as  he  starts  to 
buck,  bring  him  to  his  knees  severely  and  hold  him 
there  for  some  time.  Soon  he  will  understand  that 
if  he  jumps  or  bucks,  he  must  come  to  his  knees  and 
remain  there  as  a  punishment.  Now  do  all  you  can 
to  make  him  buck,  pulling  him  down  each  time  that 
he  does.  When  he  positively  refuses  to  buck,  stupefy 
him  with  the  tail-rope  and  then  mount. 

Rearing.  —  This  is  also  a  very  dangerous  habit  for 
a  riding  horse  to  possess,  as  he  is  likely  to  throw  his 
head  up  and  strike  the  rider,  or  in  some  cases,  he 
may  fall  over  backward,  thus  exposing  the  rider  to 
the  greatest  of  danger.  To  overcome  the  vice,  put 
the  horse  through  the  same  course  suggested  above 
for  the  horse  difficult  to  mount  and  the  buck-jumper. 
When  he  seems  perfectly  submissive  and  you  are 
ready  to  mount,  as  a  further  precaution  attach  the 
rearing-twitch  (p.  200)  to  prevent  any  possibility  of 
danger.     Now  if  perchance  he  should  start  to  rear 


Anti-jumping  Appliance  277 

or  even  throw  his  head  up,  you  can  give  the  twitch 
a  jerk  which  will  force  him  to  lower  his  head. 

Jumping  fences.  —  Many  horses  have  the  very 
aggravating  habit  of  jumping  the  fence  when  turned 
to  pasture.  While  there  are  many  causes  producing 
this  habit,  the  principal  one  seems  to  be  a  faulty 
temper.  Many  contrivances  have  been  devised  to 
prevent  horses  from  jumping  fences.  Yokes  of 
all  descriptions  have  been  manufactured  with  the 
central  thought  of  punishing  the  animal  when  he 
approaches  the  fence,  with  the  result  that  horses  are 
often  injured,  sometimes  fatally,  by  such  contri- 
vances. The  yoked  horse  in  fighting  flies  sometimes 
injures  himself  or  others  standing  near  by.  A  con- 
trivance free  from  all  such  dangers,  and  equally  if 
not  more  efficient,  is  made  as  follows  :  Procure  a  sur- 
cingle with  a  ring  at  the  bottom,  a  short  piece  of  rope, 
and  two  leg-straps  provided  with  rings.  Place  the 
surcingle  on  the  horse  and  buckle  the  straps  about  the 
forelegs  just  above  the  knees.  Next  tie  one  end  of 
the  rope  in  the  ring  at  the  back  of  the  left  knee,  then 
pass  the  free  end  up  through  the  ring  at  the  bottom 
of  the  surcingle,  then  down,  drawn  medium  tight,  and 
tie  in  the  ring  at  the  back  of  the  right  knee.  This 
will  permit  the  horse  to  walk  naturally,  lie  down,  get 
up,  and,  in  fact,  do  almost  anything  except  run  or 
jump,  which  it  most  effectively  prevents.  The  princi- 
pal advantages  are  that  there  is  no  risk  attached  to  its 
use  and  the  horse's  head  and  neck  are  perfectly  free. 


278  Outdoor  Vices  and  Whims 

OUTDOOR    WHIMS,    THEIR    CAUSE    AND    HOW   TO    OVER- 
COME   THEM 

Tongue-lolling.  —  Some  horses  have  the  disagree- 
able habit  of  protruding  the  tongue  from  the  mouth, 
usually  either  to  the  right  or  left,  but  sometimes  in 
front ;  others  place  the  tongue  on  top  of  the  bit,  and 
still  others  fold  the  free  part  backward  and  under- 
neath without  protruding  it  from  the  mouth.  Each 
of  these  abnormal  positions  of  the  tongue  lessens  the 
sensitiveness  of  the  mouth  and,  in  addition,  the  loll- 
ing tongue  is  exposed  to  injury,  which  may  become 
very  serious.  The  principal  cause  of  such  habits  is 
improper  mouthing.  The  tongue-lolling  bit  was 
devised  to  overcome  these  habits.  This  bit  is 
similar  to  a  straight  bar-bit  with  guards  at  either 
side  and  with  an  oval,  flat  piece  of  steel  attached  to 
the  bar.  This  steel  is  about  two  and  one  half  inches 
wide  and  three  to  four  inches  long  (Fig.  94,  5  and  6). 
The  bit  is  placed  in  the  horse's  mouth  with  the  flat 
piece  resting  on  the  tongue.  As  this  extends  up 
into  the  mouth  about  two  inches  back  of  the  bar, 
it  is  impossible  for  the  horse  to  get  his  tongue  back 
far  enough  to  get  it  over  the  steel,  and  the  guards  at 
the  sides  effectively  prevent  him  from  protruding  it 
at  either  side. 

To  make  a  tongue-lolling  bit,  use  an  ordinary 
straight  bar-bit  (Fig.  94,  1  and  2),  and  file  three 
inches  of  the  middle  flat.     Sew  an  oval  piece  of  sole 


Mouthing  Whims  279 

leather,  about  two  and  one  half  inches  wide  and  four 
inches  long,  over  the  flat  place.  The  flat  place  in  the 
bit  prevents  the  leather  from  turning,  which  makes  a 
very  good  tongue-lolling  bit.  Now  take  two  circular 
pieces  of  leather  about  three  inches  in  diameter  and 
attach  to  the  bit  ring  on  either  end,  thus  preventing 
the  horse  from  protruding  the  tongue  at  the  sides. 

Striking  lips.  —  Certain  horses  have  the  habit  of 
continually  moving  the  lower  lip  in  such  a  way  as 
to  cause  it  to  strike  against  the  upper  lip.  Sometimes 
this  is  done  with  sufficient  force  to  make  a  character- 
istic noise.  The  cause  which  tends  to  produce  it  is 
lack  of  proper  training  in  permitting  the  horse  to 
fight  or  play  with  the  bit.  While  the  habit  is  not 
as  dangerous  as  tongue-lolling,  it  is  very  unpleasant 
to  drive  or  ride  such  a  horse.  To  prevent  the  habit, 
make  a  lip-strap  conforming  to  the  lower  lip  and 
chin,  and  attach  this  to  the  bit  in  such  a  way  as  to 
limit  the  descending  movements  of  the  lower  lip. 

Grasping  bit.  —  The  habit  of  seizing  the  bit  between 
the  teeth  or  with  the  lower  lip  is  quite  common. 
This  is  rather  dangerous  since,  when  the  bit  is  so  held 
by  the  horse,  it  is  not  possible  to  control  his  action. 
The  habit  is  usually  caused  by  improper  methods  of 
bitting,  the  horse  grasping  the  bit  to  gain  relief  from 
unnecessary  pain.  Usually  a  light  jerk  of  the  rein 
will  compel  him  to  let  go,  but  when  the  habit  is 
confirmed,  other  methods  must  be  employed.  It  is 
on  horses  of  this  class  that  the  curb  bit  is  permissible. 


280  Outdoor  Vices  and  Whims 

If  he  is  persistent,  have  the  branches  curved  back- 
ward. With  the  Unes  attached  to  the  long  lever  of 
the  curb  and  the  branches  curved  backward,  one  can 
easily  compel  the  most  stubborn  horse  to  let  go  of 
the  bit  (Fig.  94,  34  to  36). 

Gnashing  teeth.  —  This  is  a  habit  somewhat  similar 
to  grasping  the  bit  with  the  teeth  and  is  caused  in 
like  manner.  To  overcome  the  habit  in  case  it  is 
confirmed,  employ  the  same  kind  of  curb  bit,  attach- 
ing the  lines  to  the  long  lever  of  the  curb.  Then 
by  a  slight  see-saw  motion  of  the  lines  one  can  com- 
pel the  horse  to  desist. 

Tossing  and  shaking  tha  head.  —  Certain  horses 
have  the  very  aggravating  habit  of  jerking  the  lines 
by  continually  tossing  the  head  up  or  down,  or  by 
throwing  it  from  side  to  side.  Such  horses  are 
difficult  to  drive  properly,  as  they  pull  the  lines 
through  the  hands  and  may  throw  the  lines  over  the 
end  of  a  shaft  and  an  accident  result.  Either  habit 
is  due  to  improper  bitting  and  is  often  difficult  to 
overcome.  The  best  method  of  prevention  is  to  ob- 
tain a  short  strap  about  six  inches  long  provided  with 
a  loose  ring  and  a  snap  at  either  end,  to  secure  in  the 
bit  ring  on  either  side  so  the  loose  ring  will  remain 
under  the  lower  jaw.  Now  secure  a  strap  to  this 
loose  ring  under  the  jaw,  pass  it  down  between  the 
front  legs  and  attach  to  the  belly-band  similar  to 
a  standard  martingale.  This  is  a  very  effective 
appliance  for  preventing  either  habit. 


Overcoming  a  Lugging  Horse  281 

Lugging.  —  The  horse  that  continually  pulls  on 
the  bit  is  spoken  of  as  a  lugger.  The  habit  is  very 
common  and  exceedingly  difficult  to  overcome. 
It  is  usually  due  to  improper  bitting,  the  use  of  a 
severe  bit  having  paralyzed  the  muscles  of  the  mouth 
to  such  an  extent  that  as  a  rule  no  matter  what  kind 
of  bit  is  used,  it  has  no  effect  whatever.  Occa- 
sionally, however,  a  change  of  bits  will  prove  bene- 
ficial. To  overcome  the  habit,  it  is  necessary  first 
that  the  horse  be  perfectly  obedient  to  the  commands. 
As  his  mouth  has  lost  its  sensitiveness,  it  will  be 
necessary  to  teach  commands  by  employing  the  double 
safety  rope  and  either  the  guy  line  or  Yankee  bridle, 
much  as  suggested  in  overcoming  balking  (p.  249). 
Continue  the  work  as  suggested  until  he  becomes 
obedient  to  the  commands  without  the  use  of  the 
lines.  Next,  with  the  double  safety  rope  still 
attached,  hitch  to  a  vehicle.  Now  instead  of  pulling 
on  the  lines  to  steady  him  give  the  command 
^ ^steady,"  and  if  he  does  not  obey,  begin  to  inter- 
fere with  his  legs  by  pulling  on  the  rope.  Do  not 
pull  on  the  lines  in  every  event;  if  he  is  stubborn 
and  will  not  steady,  pull  him  to  his  knees,  at  the  same 
time  giving  a  see-saw  pull  on  the  lines.  Continue  this 
until  he  understands  that  the  slight  see-saw  motion  of 
the  lines  means  to  go  steady.  If  he  is  very  game,  use 
the  throwing  appliance  or  the  tail-rope  to  subdue  him. 

Boring.  —  The  horse  that  lugs  or  pulls  more  on  one 
rein  than  on  the  other  is  said  to  ''  bore."     The  causes 


282  Outdoor  Vices  and  Whims 

that  tend  to  produce  it  are  similar  to  those  that 
cause  lugging,  and  in  fact  the  two  habits  are  much 
the  same ;  in  one  case  the  horse  pulls  straight  forward, 
while  in  the  other  he  pulls  to  one  side.  To  overcome 
the  habit,  put  the  horse  through  the  course  sug- 
gested for  lugging. 

Crowding  and  pulling  away.  —  These  are  very 
troublesome  habits  often  met  with  when  horses 
are  hitched  double,  one  horse  often  crowding  the 
other  so  hard  as  to  push  him  out  of  the  road,  or  pulling 
away  so  far  as  to  pull  the  other  out  of  his  path, 
either  of  which  is  very  aggravating.  The  principal 
causes  tending  to  produce  either  habit  are  lack  of 
proper  training,  especially  bitting,  and  poorly  fitting 
harness,  which  chafes  the  horse,  thus  producing  irri- 
tating sores.  When  the  trouble  is  due  to  the  latter 
cause,  the  first  thing  to  do  is  to  obtain  properly  fitting 
harness  and  heal  the  sores.  When  the  habit  is  due 
to  improper  bitting,  the  horse  must  be  put  through 
a  course  of  subjection  and  then  educated  to  the  proper 
use  of  the  bit,  and  to  obey  the  command  similar  to 
that  suggested  for  the  balking  horse  (p.  249). 

After  the  horse  becomes  obedient  to  the  commands 
and  familiar  with  the  uses  of  the  bit,  he  may  be 
hitched  double  with  the  double  safety  still  attached. 
Now,  if  he  crowds  or  pulls  away,  command  him  to 
'Hake  care,"  and  begin  to  interfere  with  his  legs  by 
pulling  on  the  rope,  at  the  same  time  giving  a  slight 
jerk  with  the  line.     If  he  continues  to  crowd,  pull 


The  Crowding  Horse  283 

him  to  his  knees,  stopping  the  other  horse  at  the  same 
time.  Continue  this  until  he  obeys  the  command 
and  the  jerking  of  the  Hne. 

In  certain  kinds  of  work,  such  as  plowing,  when 
the  single  line  is  used  on  the  leader,  it  is  necessary 
to  employ  a  ''crowd  stick"  to  prevent  the  off  horse 
from  crowding  the  near  one.  This  stick  is  attached 
to  the  lower  end  of  the  hame  on  the  leader  and  to 
the  right  ring  on  the  bit  of  the  off  horse,  and  is  of 
such  length  as  to  hold  him  in  his  proper  place.  To 
overcome  the  confirmed  crowder,  some  horsemen  take 
an  inch  board  about  six  inches  square  and  drive 
several  eightpenny  nails,  with  sharpened  ends, 
through  it,  then  suspend  the  board  on  the  side  of 
the  steady  horse  in  such  a  way  that  when  the 
other  crowds,  he  comes  in  contact  with  the  sharpened 
nail  ends,  and  the  punishment  thus  inflicted  teaches 
him  to  stay  over  on  his  own  side  of  the  path. 

Stripping  bridle.  —  Certain  horses  have  the  habit 
of  stripping  the  bridle  whenever  the  opportunity 
presents  itself;  thus  when  tied  to  a  post  or  rack,  if 
their  bridles  are  the  least  bit  too  large,  they  slip 
them  off  their  heads,  and  when  they  find  themselves 
free  they  start  to  walk  away,  breaking  the  lines  and 
perhaps  getting  into  greater  difficulty.  The  chief 
cause  tending  to  produce  this  habit  is  poorly  fitting 
bridles,  either  too  small  or  too  large.  When  too 
small,  the  bridle  fits  so  tightly  about  the  forehead 
and  at  the  corners  of  the  mouth  that  the  horse  rubs 


284  Outdoor  Vices  and  Whims 

his  head  on  the  post  to  get  relief,  and  perhaps  breaks 
some  part,  which  gives  him  reUef  and  permits  the 
bridle  to  slip  off.  Thus  he  learns  that  when  the 
bridle  annoys  him  he  gets  relief  by  rubbing  it  off. 
When  too  large,  the  bridle  hangs  so  loosely  that  in 
moving  the  head  about,  the  bridle  catches  on  the  rack 
and  the  horse  slips  his  head  out.  To  avoid  this 
habit,  use  a  properly  fitting  bridle  (p.  325).  To  over- 
come it  when  once  established,  use  a  properly  fit- 
ting bridle  with  both  a  nose-  and  chin-band  fitted 
snugly,  as  such  a  bridle  cannot  be  stripped  off  without 
great  difficulty,  though  to  avoid  any  risk  use  a  neck- 
strap  fitted  snugly  and  with  the  tie  strap  run  through 
the  ring  at  the  bit,  and  secured  to  the  post  or 
hitching  rack. 

Refusing  to  stand.  —  Some  horses  have  the  very 
aggravating  habit  of  refusing  to  stand  while  you 
get  in  the  vehicle  and  arrange  the  robes.  This  is 
due  simply  to  lack  of  proper  training,  and  to  over- 
come the  habit  it  is  necessary  to  teach  them  to  obey 
the  commands  thoroughly.  The  horse  must  be 
taught  that  '^whoa"  means  to  stand  quietly  until 
ordered  to  move  on.  If  he  fails  to  respond  to  gentle 
treatment,  put  him  through  the  course  suggested 
in  overcoming  balking  (p.  249).  Then  with  the  double 
safety  still  attached,  hitch  him  to  a  vehicle,  and  if  he 
moves  while  you  are  arranging  things,  severely  jerk 
him  to  his  knees  and  hold  him  there  a  few  minutes. 
Continue  until  he  obeys. 


Catching  a  Horse  285 

Troublesome  to  catch.  —  This  refers  to  the  horse 
out  at  pasture  refusing  to  come  when  called,  or  refus- 
ing to  allow  one  to  approach  him.  It  is  very  annoy- 
ing to  corral  such  an  animal.  The  habit  is  due  to 
improper  treatment,  usually  when  young.  It  is 
not  uncommon  for  boys  or  thoughtless  persons  to 
throw  sticks  or  stones  at  young  colts  to  make  them 
run.  In  this  way  the  horse  learns  that  by  fleeing 
when  any  one  comes  near,  he  avoids  such  objects 
as  are  thrown  at  him.  To  overcome  the  habit, 
treat  the  horse  gently,  take  an  ear  of  corn,  an 
apple  or  a  little  sugar  to  the  field  when  you  go 
after  him  and  be  sure  to  give  him  the  dainty  and 
caress  him  when  he  comes  to  you.  If  you  catch  him 
by  offering  the  corn,  then  refuse  to  let  him  have  it, 
he  is  not  likely  to  let  you  catch  him  again ;  hence  give 
him  the  dainty  each  time  and  he  will  soon  reward 
you  by  coming  when  you  call  him. 


CHAPTER   VIII 

STABLE   VICES  AND   WHIMS 

Many  a  young  horse  has  been  spoiled  the  first  day 
he  spent  in  the  stable,  by  the  treatment  he  received. 
Many  persons  seem  to  think  the  green  horse  should 
stand  much  the  same  as  a  work  horse.  Thus  if  he 
fails  to  stand  over  when  commanded,  or  if  he  will  not 
permit  his  sensitive  abdomen  and  legs  to  be  curried, 
or  if  he  objects  to  having  heavy  harness  with  flap- 
ping bands  thrown  over  his  back,  then  a  whip,  fork 
handle,  club,  Up  twitch,  or  anything  that  the  excited 
attendant  can  lay  hands  on,  is  used  to  punish  the 
horse,  with  the  result  that  a  habit  is  established  which 
may  be  exceedingly  difficult  to  overcome.  All  such 
excitement  and  resulting  bad  habits  easily  can  be 
avoided  by  a  little  patient  effort  in  properly  training 
the  horse.  The  stable  education  should  take  place 
simultaneously  with  the  training  in  the  paddock. 

STABLE    VICES,    THEIR   CAUSE   AND   HOW  TO 
OVERCOME   THEM 

Refusing  admission  into  stall.  —  The  horse  that 
has  not  been  trained  properly  sometimes  refuses  to 
let  the  attendant  enter  the  stall,  or  crowds  him  against 

286 


Entering  the  Stall  287 

the  partition  once  he  gets  inside.  This  is  a  very 
dangerous  habit,  as  one  is  hkely  to  be  injured  either 
by  being  kicked,  or  by  being  squeezed  against  the 
side  of  the  stall.  To  train  the  horse  to  permit  ad- 
mission to  his  stall,  secure  a  three-eighths  inch  rope 
about  ten  feet  long,  and  two  rings  with  staples 
attached.  With  the  staple  secure  one  of  the  rings 
to  the  left  stall  partition  about  as  high  as  the  horse's 
head,  and  over  the  manger.  Secure  the  other  ring  to 
the  rear  of  the  stall  where  it  can  be  reached  handily 
without  exposure  to  injury  by  the  horse.  Now  grasp 
the  rope,  tie  it  into  the  ring  at  the  halter,  pass  the 
free  end  up  through  the  ring  over  the  manger,  then 
back  to  the  ring  at  the  rear  of  the  stall  and  tie, 
leaving  the  rope  slack  enough  so  the  horse  can  lie 
down  or  reach  to  the  right  side  of  the  manger.  When 
ready  to  enter  the  stall,  catch  hold  of  the  rope  at  the 
rear  ring,  and  as  the  command  ^' stand  over"  is 
given,  pull  the  horse's  head  over  against  the  left 
partition,  simultaneously  giving  a  slight  push  on  his 
hind  quarter.  This  appliance  pulls  his  fore  quarters 
to  the  left  and  as  you  push  his  hind  quarters  to  the 
right  you  have  him  in  such  a  position  that  you  can 
enter  to  his  left  with  perfect  safety.  Continue  to 
hold  his  head  close  to  the  left  partition  so  he  cannot 
either  turn  his  hind  quarter  toward  you  or  squeeze 
you  with  his  left  shoulder. 

As  soon  as  the  horse  becomes  familiar  with  one 
entering  the  stall  on  the  left,  change  the  appliance 


288  Stable  Vices  and  Whims 

to  the  right  partition,  and  in  a  similar  way  train 
him  to  admit  the  attendant  on  the  right  side.  This 
is  important,  for  the  horse  that  is  trained  only  from 
one  side  is  very  likely  to  cause  trouble  when  one 
attempts  to  enter  the  stall  from  the  opposite  side. 
Repeat  this  work  until  the  horse  will  stand  over  and 
admit  one  to  either  the  right  or  left  at  the  command. 

Difficult  to  groom.  —  Not  only  are  some  horses 
difficult  to  approach,  but  they  resist  grooming  by 
arching  the  back,  stamping  and  striking  with  the 
forefeet,  trying  to  lie  down,  pressing  the  groom 
against  the  stall,  and  when  loose  in  a  box  stall  by 
turning  around  and  kicking.  This  is  a  very  dan- 
gerous habit,  and  one  often  difficult  to  overcome. 
In  most  cases,  it  is  due  to  lack  of  proper  training. 
To  punish  the  animal  only  increases  the  difficulty. 
Gentleness,  caresses,  kind  treatment  and  the  feeding 
of  some  dainty  will  have  a  much  better  effect  on 
the  animal  with  such  a  disposition. 

To  overcome  the  habit  when  once  established, 
give  the  horse  a  course  in  general  submission  by 
taking  him  from  the  stable  and  using  either  the 
tail-rope  (p.  219)  to  stupefy  him,  or  by  laying  him  down 
with  the  throwing  harness  (p.  212).  Next  pole  him 
thoroughly  as  suggested  for  the  kicker  (p.  254), 
exercising  due  care  about  the  abdomen  and  legs. 
If  he  fights  the  poling  process,  either  stupefy  him 
or  lay  him  down  and  continue  the  work  while  in 
the  helpless  condition.     After  he  becomes  perfectly 


Grooming  a  Difficult  Horse 


289 


submissive  to  the  pole,  arrange  one  of  the  twitches 
suggested  (pp.  190  to  199),  and  with  the  twitch  in 
the  left  hand,  the  currycomb  in  the  right,  gently  go 
over  the  entire  body,  exercising  due  care  about  the 


Fig.  84.  —  Noose-twitch  on  a  horse  difficult  to  groom. 

sensitive  parts  (Fig.  84).  If  he  flinches  or  stamps, 
jerk  him  with  the  twitch;  if  he  is  stubborn  and  very 
game,  subdue  him  with  the  tail-rope  or  lay  him  down 
and  continue  the  work  until  he  becomes  calm. 
Repeat  until  he  becomes  perfectly  submissive  to  the 
use  of  the  comb. 


290  Stable  Vices  and  Whims 

In  the  sale  stables  one  frequently  observes  a 
vicious  horse  being  curried  while  an  assistant  quiets 
him  with  the  lip-twitch.  This  twitch  causes  the 
horse  such  pain  on  the  upper  lip  that  he  does  not 
notice  the  currycomb  and  hence  does  not  resist 
currying,  but  it  does  not  overcome  the  habit,  for 
when  the  twitch  is  removed,  the  horse  becomes  as 
bad  as  before,  if  not  worse. 

Difficult  to  harness.  —  This  may  become  a  very 
dangerous  habit,  as  some  horses  kick  with  the  hind 
feet,  strike  with  the  forefeet,  bite,  rear,  or  try  to 
lie  down  as  one  approaches  to  harness  them.  As 
in  most  other  forms  of  vice,  it  is  largely  due  to  lack 
of  proper  training,  and  the  correct  way  to  over- 
come it  is  to  do  the  training  over  again.  To  begin 
with,  the  horse  should  be  made  thoroughly  famihar 
with  the  uses  of  the  bit  and  obedient  to  the  com- 
mands, much  as  suggested  for  the  balker  (p.  249). 
In  the  second  place  he  should  be  made  perfectly 
familiar  with  pressure  applied  to  all  parts  of  the 
body,  as  suggested  for  the  kicker  (p.  254).  In  this 
poling  work,  give  special  attention  to  the  top  of 
the  head,  the  back,  the  abdomen  and  the  tail,  as 
these  are  the  parts  where  the  harness  presses.  Next 
attach  the  war  bridle  modified  (p.  192),  and  after 
permitting  the  horse  to  smell  and  feel  the  harness 
with  his  nose,  gently  place  it  on  his  back.  Do  not 
throw  it  over  his  back,  as  the  loose  straps  dangling 
about  his  abdomen  and  legs  may  excite  him  to  kick, 


Bridling  a  Difficult  Horse  291 

strike  or  bite.  If  he  resists  as  you  place  the  harness 
over  the  body,  punish  him  with  the  war  bridle. 
Continue  until  he  becomes  perfectly  submissive  to 
being  harnessed.  To  complete  the  work,  in  a  simi- 
lar way  educate  him  to  stand  while  being  harnessed 
from  the  right  side.  If  he  is  very  game,  attach  the 
tail-rope  and  continue  the  work  after  he  becomes 
stupefied. 

Where  the  horse  does  not  too  stubbornly  resent 
being  harnessed,  very  good  results  are  secured  by 
tying  his  head  very  short  to  the  manger  or  hay- 
rack before  harnessing,  as  this  prevents  him  from 
biting  or  kicking  the  attendant  while  placing  the 
harness  over  the  animal's  back. 

Difficult  to  bridle.  —  This  is  a  very  common  habit 
and  one  that  is  often  difficult  to  overcome,  the 
horse  either  holding  his  head  very  high  or  posi- 
tively refusing  to  open  his  mouth.  As  with  horses 
difficult  to  harness,  this  habit  is  due  to  improper 
methods  of  training,  to  the  use  of  severe  bits  or  to 
tight-fitting  bridles.  To  overcome  it,  give  the  same 
treatment  as  already  suggested  for  the  horse 
difficult  to  harness.  If  the  horse  has  the  habit  of 
throwing  the  head  up  as  you  attempt  to  bridle, 
attach  the  excelsior  bridle  (p.  193),  placing  one  of  the 
ropes  well  back  on  the  neck  and  the  other  just  back 
of  the  ears.  Now  as  he  raises  his  head  give  a  se- 
vere jerk  on  the  excelsior  bridle,  thus  causing  pres- 
sure on  the  top  of  the  neck  and  both  pain  and  pres- 


292  Stable  Vices  and  Whims 

sure  just  back  of  the  ears,  and  the  horse  naturally 
lowers  his  head,  when  he  should  be  caressed  and  fed 
a  dainty,  as  sugar  or  an  apple.  Next  work  the  bridle 
up  toward  the  top  of  the  ears,  and  if  he  raises  the 
head  jerk  it  down  as  before.  Do  not  forget  to  caress 
him  when  he  lowers  his  head,  as  this  is  what  you 
wish  him  to  do.  Continue  until  he  becomes  sub- 
missive to  having  the  bridle  placed  over  his  ears 
without  raising  the  head.  In  case  he  refuses  to 
open  his  mouth,  part  the  lips  at  the  left  side  and 
with  the  fingers  reach  in  between  the  bars  and  tickle 
the  top  of  the  mouth,  when  he  will  immediately 
open  his  jaws  and  you  can  slip  the  bit  into  his 
mouth. 

Difficult  to  crupper.  —  This  is  a  very  aggravating 
habit,  as  the  horse  clamps  his  tail  down  on  his 
quarters  so  firmly  that  the  crupper  is  placed  in  po- 
sition with  much  difficulty.  The  causes  of  the  habit 
and  the  methods  of  overcoming  it  are  similar  to 
those  described  for  the  horse  that  throws  his  tail 
over  the  lines  (p.  268). 

Biting.  —  This  is  a  habit  usually  caused  by  irri- 
tation and  rapidly  develops  into  a  confirmed  and 
dangerous  vice.  Improper  grooming  is  the  most  fre- 
quent cause  of  the  irritation,  hence  the  most  gentle 
treatment  is  essential  in  animals  with  sensitive  skins. 

In  confirmed  cases,  the  vice  is  exceedingly  danger- 
ous, the  animals  sometimes  plunging  ferociously 
upon    their    victim,    trampling    him    underfoot    or 


Overcoming  a  Biter  293 

bruising  him  in  many  ways.  As  dealers  do  not 
hesitate  to  put  such  animals  on  the  market,  es- 
pecially when  the  vice  is  not  very  marked,  it  is  a 
good  plan  for  the  prospective  purchaser  to  be  on 
his  guard.  Such  a  horse  can  usually  be  told  by 
the  manner  in  which  he  sets  back  his  ears,  puckers 
his  nostrils,  curls  his  lips,  stretches  out  his  head  and 
shows  his  teeth  when  any  one  passes  within  his 
reach.  Occasionally,  however,  such  a  horse  ap- 
pears very  docile  when  in  the  care  of  his  regular 
groom,  due  no  doubt  to  his  being  cowed  by  the 
remembrance  of  past  punishment  or  the  fear  of  a 
future    one. 

When  the  horse  is  troubled  only  mildly,  simply 
nipping  now  and  then,  the  habit  can  be  overcome  by 
the  use  of  the  pulley  bridle  (p.  193).  Place  this  on 
him  and  when  he  attempts  to  nip,  punish  him  se- 
verely with  the  bridle.  Tempt  him  to  nip  and 
then  punish  him  if  he  does.  Soon  he  will  asso- 
ciate the  punishment  with  nipping,  and  will  cease. 
To  keep  the  horse  from  reaching  around  and 
biting  as  you  enter  the  stall,  arrange  a  rope  to 
pull  his  head  up  to  the  side  of  the  stall,  as  sug- 
gested in  refusing  admission  (p.  286). 

If  the  horse  has  the  habit  too  well  developed  to  be 
overcome  with  the  pulley  bridle,  try  the  war  bri- 
dle modified  (p.  192).  Each  time  he  attempts  to  bite, 
punish  him  severely  with  the  bridle.  If  he  still 
persists,  apply  the  wooden  gag  (p.  200)  and  if  neces- 


294  Stable  Vices  and  Whims 

sary  tie  up  one  foreleg  or  put  him  in  the  straight- 
jacket  (p.  221).  After  placing  the  gag  in  his  mouth 
give  him  every  opportunity  to  bite,  for  as  he  does 
so  the  sharp  corners  on  the  gag  cut  his  gums.  Keep 
nagging  him  until  he  ceases  to  bite  the  gag.  A  few 
lessons,  one  each  day,  will  serve  to  overcome  most 
biters.  In  case  the  horse  is  a  confirmed  biter,  it  is 
a  good  plan  to  put  him  through  a  course  of  sub- 
jection with  either  the  tail-rope  or  throwing  harness 
as  suggested  for  the  kicker  (p.  254),  and  teach  him 
to  be  thoroughly  obedient  to  the  command  '^ steady.'^ 

Tying  the  horse  up  short  by  the  head,  or  the  use 
of  such  appliances  as  the  muzzle,  necklet  or  neck- 
cradle  (Fig.  91),  effectively  prevent  him  from  biting, 
but  in  no  manner  serve  to  overcome  the  habit. 
Such  methods  may  be  useful  in  protecting  the 
attendant  while  he  curries,  harnesses  or  gentles  the 
horse,  but  they  are  not  severe  enough  to  effect  a  cure. 

To  prevent  a  horse  from  biting  his  mate  when 
hitched  double,  attach  the  modified  war  bridle  un- 
der the  common  bridle  and  run  the  lead  rope  back 
to  the  vehicle.  When  the  horse  attempts  to  bite, 
punish  him  severely  with  the  war  bridle,  at  the 
same  time  giving  the  command  '^steady."  Con- 
tinue the  method  until  he  ceases  the  habit  and 
quiets  at  the  command.  If  he  fights  the  method, 
attach  the  double  safety  and  severely  jerk  him  to 
his  knees  at  the  same  time  you  jerk  the  war  bridle. 

Striking.  —  This  habit  is  acquired  in  much  the 


Kicking  in  the  Stable  295 

same  manner  as  biting  and  may  become  very  dan- 
gerous. Another  prolific  cause  of  striking  is  the 
arranging  of  the  bit  too  high  in  the  mouth,  especially 
when  the  mouth  is  tender,  as  the  horse  naturally 
throws  his  head  down  and  strikes  out  with  a  front 
foot  in  an  endeavor  to  remove  the  source  of  pain. 
When  the  vice  is  due  to  the  latter  cause,  the  first 
thing  is  to  use  a  properly  fitting  bit  and  bridle. 
When  the  vice  is  due  to  infirmities  of  temper,  other 
means  must  be  employed.  The  horse  should  first  be 
given  a  general  course  in  subjection  by  the  use  of  the 
tail-rope  (p.  219),  or  by  the  thro  wing-harness  (p.  212). 
Teach  him  to  obey  the  commands  thoroughly,  and 
especially  '^steady."  Then  place  him  back  in  the 
stable,  attach  the  war  bridle  modified  (p.  192)  and 
gentle  both  forelegs.  If  he  strikes,  punish  him  se- 
verely with  the  war  bridle.  Continue  until  he  be- 
comes perfectly  submissive  and  will  not  raise  either 
foreleg  until  commanded  to  do  so. 

Kicking  in  stable.  —  The  horses  that  are  given  to 
this  vice  may  be  divided  into  two  general  classes : 
those  that  kick  at  persons  who  may  be  entering  the 
stall  or  passing  by,  and  those  that  kick  to  hear  the 
noise;  the  latter  usually  kick  at  night  and  are 
spoken  of  as  ^^ night  kickers."  The  former  may 
prove  very  dangerous  and  the  latter  very  annoy- 
ing. The  causes  that  produce  the  vice  of  kicking 
at  persons  are  practically  the  same  as  those  that 
make  the  horse  difficult  to  groom  (p.  288).     To  over- 


296  Stable  Vices  and  Whims 

come  this  habit  in  case  it  is  confirmed,  remove  the 
horse  from  the  stall  and  give  him  a  complete  course 
in  subjection  with  either  the  tail-rope  or  the  throw- 
ing-harness.  Thoroughly  teach  him  the  commands, 
especially  ^^whoa"  and  ^^ steady."  Place  him  back 
in  the  stall,  attach  the  war  bridle  modified  (p.  192) 
and  when  he  kicks  punish  him  severely  with  the  bri- 
dle. Endeavor  to  make  him  kick,  then  punish  him 
for  doing  so.  Continue  until  he  becomes  per- 
fectly submissive  while  you  pass  around  him  and 
handle  his  hind  quarters. 

As  a  precaution,  arrange  an  appliance  to  pull  his 
head  up  to  the  side  of  the  stall  whenever  you  wish 
to  enter,  similar  to  that  suggested  for  refusing  ad- 
mission (p.  286).  Another  device  that  some  per- 
sons prefer  in  teaching  the  horse  to  stand  over  is 
made  from  a  surcingle  and  long  rope.  The  surcingle 
is  placed  about  the  horse  and  one  end  of  the  rope 
tied  in  the  ring  on  the  left  side  of  the  halter;  the 
free  end  is  then  passed  back  and  through  the  ring 
at  the  top  of  the  surcingle,  and  tied  at  some  con- 
venient place  near  the  rear  of  the  stall.  Now  by 
pulling  the  rope  we  pull  the  horse's  head  to  the 
left  and  his  hind  quarters  to  the  right,  thus  enabling 
one  to  enter  the  stall  without  risk. 

There  are  several  ways  of  overcoming  ''night 
kicking,"  or  kicking  to  hear  the  noise.  A  very 
simple  yet  effective  plan  is  to  suspend  from  the 
ceiling  a  bag  of  hay  in  such  a  position  that  when 


Overcoming  Stahle-Jdcking  297 

hanging,  it  will  clear  the  floor  by  about  three  feet  and 
be  about  one  foot  to  the  rear  of  the  horse's  quar- 
ters. Each  time  he  kicks  the  bag  will  swing  back 
and  strike  his  quarters.  Soon  he  will  tire  of  kick- 
ing it  away  and  will  stand  quietly,  when  the  bag  will 
cease  to  annoy  him;  but  as  soon  as  he  begins  kick- 
ing, it  will  strike  him  again.  In  this  way  he  quickly 
learns  that  by  standing  quietly  he  avoids  the  an- 
noyance of  the  bag  striking  his  quarters.  Another 
plan  is  to  pad  the  stall,  using  hay  or  straw  and  burlap, 
which  prevents  the  horse  from  making  a  noise. 
With  this  arrangement  he  hears  no  report  and  soon 
gives  up  the  habit.  Another  simple  and  yet  very 
effective  plan  is  to  place  an  elastic  around  the 
horse's  leg  just  above  the  hock  joint.  Now  as  he 
raises  the  leg  to  kick,  the  elastic  causes  extra  pres- 
sure on  the  tendons,  which  serves  to  divert  his  at- 
tention from  kicking.  Still  other  horsemen  pre- 
fer the  single  shackle,  which  is  made  from  a  heavy 
piece  of  leather  provided  with  a  buckle  and  keeper 
at  either  end.  This  is  of  sufficient  length  that, 
when  buckled  about  each  hind  pastern  just  above 
the  fetlock  joints,  the  horse  can  stand  naturally. 
With  the  hind  legs  thus  fastened  together  the  horse 
is  unable  to  kick.  The  fastening  of  a  short  chain 
to  one  leg  so  that  when  the  horse  kicks  it  will  strike 
the  other  leg  is  not  to  be  recommended,  as  it  is 
likely  to  injure  him. 

Hanging  back  in  the  stall.  —  This  habit  is  rather 


298  Stable  Vices  and  Whims 

common  and  sometimes  develops  into  halter-break- 
ing. The  principal  cause  of  the  habit  is  that  the 
flooring  in  the  stall  is  too  high  in  front.  The  horse 
cannot  rest  if  his  forefeet  are  elevated  much  higher 
than  the  hind  ones.  There  is  another  rather  com- 
mon cause  that  is  often  overlooked.  It  is  the  usual 
practice  in  erecting  stall-partitions  to  have  them 
much  higher  at  the  horse's  head  than  at  the  rear. 
Often  the  high  part  is  not  carried  sufficiently  to 
the  rear,  and  the  horse  hangs  back  in  order  to 
get  his  head  over  the  low  part  and  play  with  the 
horse  in  the  adjoining  stall.  To  overcome  the  habit, 
level  the  floor  and  raise  the  partition.  Then  ar- 
range a  rope  across  the  rear  of  the  stall  so  that  when 
the  horse  backs  the  rope  will  come  in  contact  with 
the  quarters,  which  will  stimulate  him  to  move 
forward.  If  he  has  contracted  the  habit  of  pulling 
on  the  halter,  adapt  any  of  the  hitches  suggested  for 
overcoming  halter-pulling  (p.  269). 

Difficult  to  lead  into  a  doorway.  —  Some  horses 
are  exceedingly  difficult  to  lead  into  a  box  stall, 
a  doorway  or  other  dark  places.  This  habit  is 
caused  perhaps  by  low  doorways,  in  which  the  ani- 
mal has  had  a  few  hard  bumps  on  the  top  of  his 
head,  which  of  course  makes  him  rather  timid  about 
entering  any  doorway.  The  simplest  and  most 
efficient  method  of  overcoming  this  habit  is  to 
adapt  one  of  the  hitches  suggested  for  teaching  a 
horse  to  lead  (p.  51).     Do  not  rush  him  through,  but 


Causes  of  Cribbing  299 

stop  him  as  he  enters,  caress  him  and  in  every  way 
possible  teach  him  that  no  harm  is  to  come  to  him 
in  passing  through  the  door.  Continue  the  work 
until  he  walks  through  the  door  without  the  least 
alarm. 

Cribbing.  —  This  habit  is  commonly  defined  as  one 
in  which  the  horse  gnaws  at  the  stable  fittings,  such 
as  the  mangers,  hay-rack,  halter-strap,  sides  of  the 
stall  and  occasionally  the  ends  of  the  shafts  when 
he  is  hitched.  While  it  is  not  necessarily  danger- 
ous, there  are  few  habits  that  are  more  objectionable. 
Further,  it  is  often  accompanied  by  wind-sucking, 
which  makes  it  all  the  more  disagreeable.  The 
causes  do  not  seem  to  be  well  understood,  a  few 
horsemen  stating  that  it  is  due  to  a  disordered 
stomach,  but  most  of  them  agreeing  that  it  is  due 
to  comparative  idleness  and  bad  companions,  prin- 
cipally the  former.  When  once  developed  and  con- 
firmed there  seems  to  be  no  cure  that  will  work  in 
every  case. 

Many  plans  have  been  suggested  for  overcoming 
cribbing,  such  as  smearing  the  fittings,  mangers, 
hay-racks  and  sides  of  the  stalls  with  aloes  or  other 
bitters  ;  removing  fittings  and  feeding  off  the  ground  ; 
providing  muzzles  (Fig.  85,  1)  ;  supplying  rock- 
salt  for  the  horse  to  lick,  and  the  use  of  a  strap 
tightly  drawn  around  the  neck  (Fig.  85,  2),  all  of 
which  seem  to  fail  with  the  confirmed  cribber. 
Since  idleness  seems  to  be  the  principal  cause,  the 


300 


Stable  Vices  and  Whims 


best  way  to  avoid  the  trouble  is  to  keep  the  horse 
at  work  or  exercise  him  regularly.  A  very  tired 
horse  seldom  cribs.  . 

Wind-sucking.  —  This  habit  is  commonly  defined 
as  one  in  which  the  horse  sucks  wind.  He  begins 
by  moving  his  lips  in  an  up  and  down  motion,  then 
he  suddenly  lowers  his  head,  sometimes  to  the  level 

of  his  knees,  and  then  swal- 
lows a  mouthful  of  air.  As 
a  rule,  the  wind-sucker 
may  be  told  by  the  gulp- 
ing sound  that  he  makes, 
this  being  very  loud  in 
some  cases  but  in  others 
so  slight  as  to  be  scarcely 
noticeable.  The  cause  and 
the  suggestion  usually  rec- 

FiG.  85. — Appliances  to   prevent 

cribbing.       i,  muzzle;    ;g,  neck-    Ommcuded    tO    OVCrCOmC 

^^^^^'  the  habit  are  very  similar 

to  cribbing.  As  a  matter  of  fact,  both  habits  seem 
to  be  so  closely  allied  that  many  veterinarians  speak 
of  them  both  as  cribbing.  In  one  case  they  say  the 
horse  ''cribs  with  support"  ;  that  is,  that  he  grasps 
some  object  with  his  teeth  while  sucking  the  air, 
commonly  understood  as  cribbing.  In  the  other 
case  they  say  the  horse  ''cribs  in  the  air"  ;  that  is, 
he  swallows  the  air  without  grasping  an  object  with 
the  teeth,  commonly  called  "sucking  wind." 

Difficult  to  shoe.  —  A  horse  difficult  to  shoe  is  a  great 


Gentling  a  Front  Foot 


301 


inconvenience  to  the  owner  and  too  often  a  cause 
of  accident  to  the  blacksmith.  The  habit  is  usually 
due  to  lack  of  proper  training  or  to  injury  received 
in  the  blacksmith  shop.     With  animals  that  have 


Fig.  86.  —  Gentling  front  foot  with  rope. 

the  feet  gentled  there  is  little  or  no  difficulty  (p.  101). 
When  the  horse  is  confirmed  in  the  habit,  other 
means  must  be  employed.  First  his  legs  should  be 
thoroughly  poled  as  in  overcoming  the  kicker 
(p.  254).  Next  attach  the  pulley  bridle  (p.  193)  and 
gently  run  your  hand  down  the  left  shoulder  toward 


302 


Stable  Vices  and  Whims 


the  leg.  If  the  horse  resists,  punish  him  with  the 
bridle.  Continue  to  work  with  the  leg,  punishing 
with  the  bridle  when  he  resists,  until  he  becomes 
submissive  to  the  hand  at  the  pastern.  Lift  the 
foot;    if    he  resists,    tie   one  end   of   a  rope   about 


Fig.  87.  —  Gentling  front  foot  with  leg-strap. 

the  pastern,  pass  the  free  end  around  the  neck  just 
in  front  of  the  withers,  draw  the  foot  up  and  hold 
it  (Fig.  86).  If  he  is  game  and  fights  this  method, 
strap  up  the  left  front  foot  as  in  throwing,  by  using 
the  surcingle  and  leg-strap  (Fig.  87).  Now  lead  him 
about  for  a  few  minutes  on  three  feet  to  teach  him  to 
balance  properly.     If  he  attempts  to  settle  down  on 


Gentling  a  Hind  Foot  303 

the   one   front   knee,    punish    him  with   the  pulle}^ 
bridle. 

As  soon  as  the  horse  understands  how  to  balance 
himself  and  becomes  submissive,  take  hold  of  the 
leg  and  push  it  backward  and  pull  it  forward,  and 
then  to  the  side  as  far  as  convenient.  If  the  horse 
resists,  punish  by  jerking  the  bridle.  Remove  the 
strap  and  gentle  the  other  forefoot  in  a  similar  way. 

To  gentle  the  hind  foot,  rub  the  hand  along  the 
horse's  body,  over  the  hip,  and  down  the  hind  leg  to 
the  hoof,  punishing  with  the  bridle  as  before  if  he 
resists.  Attach  the  rope  to  the  left  hind  pastern. 
If  he  attempts  to  kick,  tie  up  a  front  foot  while  you 
attach  the  rope.  Should  he  attempt  to  kick  while 
in  this  position  he  will  throw  himself  out  of  balance. 
As  soon  as  you  have  the  rope  secured  to  the  hind  foot, 
unstrap  the  front  one.  Now  have  an  assistant  take 
this  rope  and  attempt  to  lift  the  foot  with  it,  at 
first  standing  well  to  the  front  and  out  of  the  horse's 
reach  should  he  attempt  to  kick  (Fig.  88).  If  the 
horse  resists,  give  several  sharp  jerks  with  the  pulley 
bridle,  when  he  will  usually  raise  his  foot.  If  he 
struggles  to  replace  the  foot,  tie  the  rope  to  a  collar. 
If  he  attempts  to  settle  down,  punish  with  the  bridle. 
Continue  until  he  learns  to  balance  on  three  legs  and 
becomes  submissive. 

Next  have  the  assistant  take  a  position  in  the  rear 
and  try  to  lift  the  foot  as  before,  standing  well  back 
behind  the  horse  and  out  of  reach  should  he  attempt 


304 


Stable  Vices  and  Whims 


to  kick  (Fig.  89).  If  the  horse  refuses  to  hft  his 
foot,  give  a  few  sharp  jerks  on  the  bridle,  which  will 
induce  him  to  raise  it.  Should  the  horse  refuse  to 
hold  the  fodt  up,   tie  a  knot  in  his  tail  as  high  as 


Fig.  88.  —  First  position  in  gentling  hind  foot. 


possible  and  pass  the  free  end  of  the  rope  through 
the  loop  in  the  tail.  Now  the  assistant  can  hold  the 
hind  foot  up  with  ease,  even  though  the  horse  should 
resist.  Some  prefer  to  tie  the  rope  to  the  tail  and 
run  the  free  end  through  a  ring  at  the  pastern  (Fig. 
90).  With  the  latter  arrangement  the  assistant 
can  work  the  foot  up  and  down  or  backward  and  for- 
ward until  the  animal  becomes  submissive.     If  at 


Securing  a  Hind  Foot  to  Tail 


305 


Fig.  89.  —  Second  position  in  gentling  hind  foot. 

any  time  he  should  resist,  punish  with  the  pulley 
bridle.     Gentle  the  other  hind  leg  similarly. 


Fig.  90.  —  Third  position  in  gentling  hind  foot. 

After  the  horse  becomes  perfectly  submissive  to 
the  rope  method,  go  over  each  foot  by  hand,  punish- 


306  Stable  Vices  and  Whims 

ing  with  the  pulley  bridle  if  he  resists.  While  this 
requires  considerable  patient  effort  and  tact,  it  should 
be  done  before  taking  the  difficult  horse  to  the  shop. 
It  is  a  good  plan  to  take  the  appliance  along  the  first 
few  times  and  attach  it  to  remind  the  horse  of  his 
helplessness.  After  putting  the  most  difficult  horse 
through  such  a  course,  usually  a  few  sharp  jerks  of 
the  pulley  bridle  while  at  the  shop  will  serve  to  quiet 
him  while  the  blacksmith  is  working  with  his  feet. 


STABLE    WHIMS,    THEIR    CAUSE,    AND    HOW   TO 

OVERCOME    THEM 

Rolling.  —  Many  horses  have  the  habit  of  rolling 
in  the  stable.  This  is  somewhat  dangerous  for  the 
horse  as  he  is  likely  to  get  fast,  particularly  if  his  stall 
is  rather  narrow.  When  the  horse  attempts  to  roll 
and  stays  over  on  his  back,  the  stall  is  too  narrow 
for  him  to  go  on  over,  so  he  cannot  get  up,  and  as  it 
is  often  impossible  for  him  to  roll  back,  he  gets  fast. 
The  longer  he  struggles,  while  lying  on  his  back,  the 
worse  his  condition  becomes.  This  habit  is  due 
perhaps  to  lack  of  opportunity  to  roll.  The  horse 
should  be  turned  to  a  paddock  for  a  few  minutes 
each  evening  so  that  he  may  frolic.  To  overcome 
the  habit,  secure  a  small  ring  and  sew  it  in  the  top 
of  the  halter.  Suspend  a  small  rope  from  a  beam 
or  the  ceiling  so  that  it  will  hang  directly  over 
the  horse's  shoulders  when  standing  at  the  manger. 


Rolling  in  the  Stable  307 

Attach  a  snap  to  the  lower  end  of  the  rope,  and  snap 
into  the  ring  at  the  top  of  the  halter.  This  rope 
should  be  of  sufficient  length  to  allow  the  horse  to 
get  his  nose  to  the  ground  about  where  his  front 
feet  usually  stand.  This  appliance  will  permit  the 
horse  to  lie  down,  get  up  and  do  much  as  he  likes, 
but  he  cannot  place  the  top  of  his  head  to  the  ground. 
As  he  cannot  roll  without  first  placing  the  top  of  his 
head  on  the  ground,  this  is  a  very  efficient  arrange- 
ment for  overcoming  the  habit.  To  lead  the  horse 
from  the  stable,  it  is  only  necessary  to  unsnap  the 
rope  at  the  top  of  the  halter  and  untie  the  halter. 

Tearing  blankets.  —  There  are  horses  that  have 
the  habit  of  biting  and  tearing  their  blankets.  There 
are  at  least  two  rather  common  causes  for  the  trouble : 
first,  an  itching  skin,  and  as  the  blanket  prevents 
the  horse  from  biting  the  itching  part  he  bites  and 
tears  the  blanket  in  order  to  get  at  the  part;  and 
second,  the  salty  taste  that  is  found  in  the  blanket, 
due  to  the  sweating  and  other  exudates  from  the 
skin.  The  salty  taste  induces  the  horse  first  to  lick 
the  blanket  and  later  to  tear  it.  To  overcome  the 
habit,  attach  one  end  of  a  bar  to  the  halter 
and  the  other  end  to  the  surcingle,  or  construct  a 
neck-cradle  (Fig.  91).  As  these  prevent  the  horse 
from  turning  the  head  to  either  side,  he  cannot  reach 
the  blanket  with  his  teeth.  Another  and  perhaps 
more  desirable  device  is  made  by  using  a  nose- 
band and  suspending  small,  short  chains  from  the 


308 


Stable  Vices  and  Whims 


Fig.  91.  —  Neck-cradle  for  pre- 
venting the  horse  from  tear- 
ing his  blanket  and  biting 
his  attendant. 


front,  back  and  sides  in  such  a  form  that  when  the 
horse  turns  his  head  to  get  hold  of  the  blanket  with 

his  teeth  the  -chain  appliance 
prevents  him  from  doing  so 
(Fig.  .92).  The  muzzle  is 
often  recommended,  but  the 
objection  to  it  is  that  the  ani- 
mal cannot  eat  with  it  at- 
tached. 

Stripping  the  halter. — 
Often  a  horse  contracts  the 
habit  of  slipping  the  halter 
off  over  his  head.  The  causes 
are  much  the  same  as  those 
that  provoke  stripping  the  bridle  (p.  283).  It  often 
results  in  the  horse  getting  an  over-feed,  which  occa- 
sionally brings  on  fatal  indiges- 
tion. To  overcome  the  habit, 
use  a  snugly  fitting  neck-strap 
in  addition  to  the  halter,  with 
the  tie-strap  run  through  the 
ring  of  the  halter  and  fastened 
to  the  manger.  A  common 
halter  with  a  tight  throat-latch 
will  not  overcome  the  trouble 
as  some  confirmed  halter-strip- 
pers have  a  head  of  such  con- 
formation that  it  is  easily  possible  for  them  to  strip 
the  halter,  notwithstanding  the  throat-latch. 


Fig.  92.  —  Muzzle   to   pre- 
vent tearing  the  blanket. 


Pawing  Appliance 


309 


Pawing  with  the  forefeet.  —  This  is  a  disagreeable 
habit,  usually  due  to  insufficient  exercise  or  to  rest- 
lessness when  the  animal  is  left  alone  in  the  stable. 
It  causes  useless  fatigue  and  a  rapid  wearing  out  of 


m^mmmmm' 


Fig.  93.  —  Appliance  to  prevent  pawing. 

the  shoes.  The  noise  that  the  horse  makes  while  paw- 
ing is  almost  unbearable,  especially  at  night.  To 
avoid  the  habit,  exercise  the  horse  regularly.  To 
overcome  it,  buckle  a  leg-strap  around  the  foreleg  just 
above  the  knee,  and  from  it  suspend  a  block  of 
wood,   about   two   inches   square    and   four   inches 


310 


Stable  Vices  and  Whims 


long,  so  that  it  will  hang  about  the  middle  of  the 
cannon  (Fig.  93).  When  the  horse  attempts  to  paw, 
the  block  strikes  him.  In  case  the  horse  is  very 
sensitive,  substitute  a  corn-cob  for  the  block.  An- 
other good  plan  is  to  use  a  heavy  strap  provided 
with  a  buckle  at  either  end  and  buckle  the  two  fore- 
legs together.  This  strap  should  be  of  the  proper 
length  to  permit  the  horse  to  stand  normally.  With 
this  appliance  he  can  lie  down,  get  up,  move  back- 
ward and  forward,  but  is  unable  to  paw.  Some 
horses  that  paw  badly  in  a  common  stall  will  cease 
if  placed  in  a  box  stall,  particularly  if  bedded  with 
sawdust. 

Rubbing  the  tail.  —  Many  horses  acquire  the  habit 
of  rubbing  the  tail  against  the  sides  of  the  stall  or 
other  surrounding  objects.  This  is  very  undesir- 
able as  the  hairs  soon  become  tangled,  break  off  and 
disfigure  the  tail.  While  there  may  be  several  causes 
for  it,  the  principal  ones  are  intestinal  troubles,  mange 
or  unclean  skin,  causing  intense  itching,  and  infirmi- 
ties of  temper.  To  overcome  the  habit  the  treat- 
ment will  vary  according  to  the  cause.  If  due  to 
intestinal  worms  they  must  be  removed,  when  the 
horse  will  cease  to  rub  his  tail ;  if  due  to  mange 
or  dirty  skin,  the  disease  must  be  cured  and  the 
skin  kept  clean-;  whereas  if  due  to  temper  other 
means  must  be  employed.  Some  horsemen  recom- 
mend the  applying  of  a  bandage  around  the  dock, 
while   others   suggest   tying   two   or  three   separate 


Preventing  Shoe-boils  311 

pieces  of  tape  or  ribbon  around  the  tail,  one  near  the 
tail-head,  a  second  near  the  middle  of  the  tail-bone 
and  a  third  near  the  lower  end  of  the  bone. 

Rubbing  harness.  —  Many  horses  have  the  annoy- 
ing habit  of  rubbing  the  harness  while  standing  in  the 
stable  during  the  noon  meal.  While  this  may  be  due 
to  many  causes,  the  principal  ones  are  improperly 
fitting  harness,  which  often  causes  sores;  mange,  which 
causes  intense  itching,  and  unclean  skin.  To  over- 
come the  habit,  search  out  and  remove  the  cause.  If 
it  is  due  to  poorly  fitting  harness  and  sores,  change 
the  harness  and  heal  the  sores ;  if  it  is  due  to  mange, 
cure  the  disease,  and  if  it  is  due  j:o  unclean  skin, 
cleanse  the  animal.  Perhaps  no  greater  service 
can  be  done  the  tired  horse  than  to  remove  the  har- 
ness and  let  him  consume  his  midday  meal  in  quiet. 

Lying  down  cow-fashion.  —  This  is  a  habit  in  which 
the  horse  doubles  his  forelegs  back  under  his  chest 
when  lying  down  in  such  a  way  that  the  heels 
press  against  the  elbow.  The  constant  friction  of 
the  heels  against  the  elbows  causes  boils  or  tumors, 
usually  called  shoe-boils,  to  develop  at  the  elbow 
joint.  Such  boils  are  very  unsightly  and  may  be- 
come painful.  There  are  several  rather  common 
methods  of  overcoming  the  habit,  such  as  protecting 
the  foot  with  a  boot,  shortening  the  inside  heel  of 
the  shoe  to  prevent  it  from  rubbing  against  the  elbow, 
and  securing  a  scantling  two  inches  square  across 
the  stall  just  back  of  where  the  horse  normally  stands 


312  Stable  Vices  and  Whims 

with  his  front  feet.  The  scanthng  hurts  the  cannons 
when  the  horse  doubles  them  back  under  him,  and 
to  avoid  the  pain  he  ceases  to  practice  the  habit. 

Lying  down  in  harness.  —  This  is  a  very  annoying 
habit,  as  the  horse  soils  and  may  even  break  the  har- 
ness. It  is  due  perhaps  to  insufficient  exercise.  To 
overcome  the  vice,  when  in  harness  tie  the  horse  up  by 
the  head  so  very  short  that  he  cannot  lie  down,  but 
as  soon  as  the  harness  is  removed  lengthen  his  tie- 
strap  to  the  normal. 

Chewing  tie-strap.  —  Occasionally  the  horse  con- 
tracts the  habit  of  chewing  his  tie-strap.  It  is  prob- 
ably due  to  the  salty  taste  of  the  leather,  as  he  usually 
begins  by  licking  and  finally  takes  to  chewing  the 
strap.  To  overcome  the  habit  some  horsemen 
recommend  to  keep  rock  salt  before  the  horse  for  him 
to  lick,  although  the  best  plan  seems  to  be  that  of 
substituting  a  chain  for  the  leather  strap. 

Eating  the  bedding.  —  This  is  a  very  aggravating 
habit  and  a  rather  common  one.  In  fact,  the  horse 
does  not  always  stop  with  eating  his  bedding,  but 
may  eat  certain  kinds  of  earth  as  well,  or  plastering 
from  the  stable  walls.  The  causes  of  the  habit  are 
not  well  understood,  as  it  often  occurs  in  horses  that 
are  receiving  what  is  considered  a  balanced  ration. 
It  seems  to  be  a  craving  for  certain  minerals.  It  may 
give  rise  to  serious  consequences,  as  the  horse  often 
suffers  from  colic,  the  result  of  overfeeding  on  such 
material.     When  once  confirmed,  the  habit  is  rather 


Sleeping  while  Standing  313 

difficult  to  overcome.  It  is  often  necessary  to  remove 
the  bedding  during  the  day,  and  sometimes  the  muzzle 
must  be  resorted  to  after  he  has  had  his  night  feed. 

Resting  one  hind  foot  upon  the  other.  —  It  is  very 
common  to  see  a  horse  standing  with  one  hind  foot 
semiflexed  and  resting  upon  the  front  surface  of 
the  other.  The  principal  causes  perhaps  are  fatigue 
and  unevenness  in  the  stable  floor.  The  habit  may 
result  in  serious  consequences  to  the  horse,  as  he 
often  wounds  the  coronary  band,  particularly  if 
sharply  shod.  Sometimes  the  walls  of  the  foot  be- 
come so  much  thickened  as  to  change  the  direction 
of  the  foot  entirely.  The  only  means  of  preventing 
these  defects  is  by  protecting  the  exposed  parts  with 
leather  boots.  To  overcome  the  habit,  do  not  work 
the  horse  to  excess,  or  if  due  to  unequal  footing,  level 
the  stable  floor. 

Sleeping  standing.  —  There  are  horses  that  never 
lie  down,  a  habit  that  seriously  detracts  from  their 
capacity  for  work.  The  principal  cause,  no  doubt, 
is  nervousness,  especially  in  the  case  of  heavy  horses. 
To  overcome  the  habit,  change  the  horse  from  a  com- 
mon stall  to  a  large  box  stall  deeply  bedded  with 
fresh  straw.  If  he  still  refuses,  give  him  two  or 
three  days'  extra  hard  work,  feeding  him  in  a  common 
stall  and  on  the  night  of  the  second  or  third  day 
bring  him  in  late,  when  the  stable  is  quiet,  and  turn 
him  loose  in  the  box  stall  bedded  with  fresh  straw 
up  to  his  knees  and  hocks.     He  will  usually  eat  his 


314  Stable  Vices  and  Whims 

feed  and  lie  down  at  once,  and  he  should  not  be  dis- 
turbed until  he  gets  up  of  his  own  accord.  It  has 
been  suggested  to  suspend  a  five-pound  weight  se- 
curely fastened  to  the  tail,  so  that  it  will  hang  about 
four  inches  above  the  hocks.  It  is  stated  that  the 
strain  of  the  weight  impels  the  horse  to  lie  down. 

Trotting  in  stable.  —  This  is  a  habit  in  which  the 
horse  executes  a  movement  somewhat  similar  to  the 
trot ;  that  is,  he  moves  from  one  pair  of  diagonal 
feet  to  the  other.  While  the  habit  has  no  serious  con- 
sequences, the  noise  is  rather  annoying  and  the  horse 
uses  up  energy,  which  lowers  his  efficiency  as  a  working 
animal.  The  principal  cause  is  lack  of  regular  exer- 
cise, as  hard  working  horses  are  never  troubled,  and 
it  is  of  rare  occurrence  among  those  given  sufficient 
exercise. 

Weaving.  —  This  is  a  habit  somewhat  similar  to 
trotting  in  the  stable,  the  horse  weaving  from 
side  to  side,  sometimes  raising  his  feet  at  the  same 
time.  It  is  brought  on  by  lack  of  exercise  and  stand- 
ing in  the  stable.  It  uses  up  much  energy  and  les- 
sens working  efficiency.  It  is  overcome  by  regular 
exercise  and  hard  work. 

Switching  tail  in  stable.  —  This  aggravating  habit  is 
caused  by  improper  training,  particularly  poHng.  To 
overcome  the  habit,  give  the  horse  a  thorough  poling 
as  in  overcoming  kicking  (p.  254) .  Then  with  the  pul- 
ley bridle  (p.  193)  attached,  go  over  him  carefully  with 
the  brush.    If  he  resists,  punish  with  the  bridle.  It  has 


Preventing  Grain  Gorging  315 

been  recommended  to  make  the  horse's  tail  sore,  by 
tying  it  up  over  his  back  as  follows.  Double  a 
small  piece  of  rope  about  eight  feet  long,  at  the 
middle,  and  tie  the  doubled  part  to  the  tail.  Now  pull 
the  tail  up  over  the  animal's  back  and  tie  the  free 
ends  of  the  rope  to  the  collar,  one  on  either  side  at 
the  hame  tugs,  drawing  down  rather  tight,  so  as  to 
make  considerable  strain  in  the  cords  of  the  tail. 
To  hold  the  ropes  in  place,  it  is  a  good  plan  to  use 
the  surcingle,  placing  it  over  the  ropes.  This  ap- 
pliance should  not  be  left  on  more  than  an  hour. 
It  will  make  the  muscles  and  tail  so  very  sore  that 
the  horse  will  be  unable  to  switch  it  for  some  time. 
^  Gorging  grain.  —  Many  horses  have  the  dis- 
agreeable habit  of  gorging  their  grain  and  swallowing 
it  without  mastication.  This  may  result  in  fatal 
colic.  To  overcome  the  habit,  give  the  horse  a 
drink  and  feed  some  hay  before  feeding  the  grain. 
Another  very  good  plan  is  to  feed  the  grain  in  a  rather 
large,  flat-bottomed  grain  box  provided  with  pockets, 
as  this  arrangement  prevents  the  horse  from  getting 
much  grain  at  a  mouthful.  Some  horsemen  recom- 
mend placing  round  stones  in  the  grain-box,  but  the 
confirmed  grain  gorger  is  usually  an  adept  at  throwing 
stones  out  before  eating  the  grain. 

Difficult  to  drench.  —  Many  horses  are  rather 
difficult  to  drench,  resisting  all  attempts  to  get  the 
morsel  down  their  throats.  A  very  good  plan  to 
make  the  refractory  horse  take  his  drench  is  to  apply 


316 


Stable  Vices  and  Whims 


the  noose-twitch  (p.  197),  and  jerking  shghtly  as  the 
morsel  is  being  poured  into  the  cup  formed  by  pulhng 
out  the  lower  lip  as  the  horse's  head  is  being  held 
up.  It  has  been  suggested  to  mount  the  horse,  and 
sitting  well  forward  draw  the  head  around  to  the 
off  side  by  the  head-stall  with  the  left  hand  and  give 
the  drench  out  of  a  bottle  with  the  right  hand.  In 
stables  where  there  are  many  horses  to  be  cared  for, 
a  drenching  bit  should  be  procured,  as  the  task  of 
drenching  is  much  more  easily  accomplished  by  the 
use  of  such  a  device. 


CHAPTER  IX 
HARNESSING   THE  COLT 

In  harnessing  the  colt  for  the  first  time  or  sub- 
sequently, it  is  important  that  the  various  parts  of 
the  harness  should  be  properly  adjusted,  as  a  perfectly 
fitted  harness  adds  much  to  the  animal's  comfort, 
efficiency  and  future  usefulness.  The  young  horse's 
skin  is  very  tender,  and  unequal  pressure  due  to 
-poorly  fitting  harness  is  likely  to  abrade  the  parts. 
This  is  well  emphasized  by  the  sore  mouth,  shoulders, 
neck,  back  and  tail  produced  by  such  harness. 
These  are  the  parts  that  come  in  contact  with  the 
harness,  and  as  they  are  very  tender  they  are  the 
places  likely  first  to  become  sore.  As  the  poorly 
fitting  harness  irritates  these  sores,  they  become  a 
source  of  much  pain  and  may  provoke  vicious  habits. 
In  this  manner  a  severe  bit  may  irritate  the  mouth 
until  the  parts  become  numbed  and  the  animal  be 
provoked  to  running  away ;  a  poorly  fitted  collar 
may  produce  a  sore  neck  or  shoulders  and  the  horse 
be  provoked  to  balking;  and  a  tightly  drawn  back- 
strap  may  cause  the  crupper  to  abrade  the  tail  and 
the  horse  be  provoked  to  kicking.  As  the  comfort, 
efficiency  and  future  usefulness   depend  so  largely 

317 


318  Harnessing  the  Colt 

upon  the  proper  adjustment  of  the  bit  and  bridle, 
collar,  saddle  and  crupper,  each  will  be  considered 
separately. 

THE    BIT   AND    THE    BRIDLE 

The  proper  adjustment  of  the  bit  and  bridle  is  of 
first  importance.  A  responsive  mouth  contributes 
much  to  the  efficiency  and  safety  of  the  horse.  A 
good  mouth  is  to  a  large  extent  natural  to  a  colt, 
and  if  properly  treated  will  remain  good.  When  we 
recall  the  extreme  tenderness  of  the  mouth,  the  cruel 
manner  in  which  it  is  often  bitted,  the  excruciating 
pain  resulting  from  the  irritation  of  the  sores  by  a 
poorly  fitted  bit,  we  can  understand  why  a  horse  may 
lag  behind  until  the  parts  become  numbed,  then  begin 
pulling  on  the  bit,  bearing  down,  holding  the  head 
to  one  side,  going  with  mouth  open,  lolling  the  tongue, 
slobbering,  tossing  the  head,  crossing  the  jaws, 
rearing,  mixing  the  gaits,  hitching  or  hobbling,  inter- 
fering, plunging  or  rushing  when  starting,  balking, 
as  well  as  being  very  restless  when  standing  and  in 
many  other  ways  showing  evidence  of  the  discom- 
fort he  is  suffering. 

The  hit.  —  As  a  general  rule,  in  the  control  of 
the  horse,  too  much  is  expected  from  the  bit  alone. 
Many  otherwise  excellent  horsemen  imagine  that 
by  using  a  heavy  and  severe  bit  they  are  or  ought 
to  be  able  to  do  anything  they  like  with  a  horse, 
even  though  the  animal  has  not  been  properly  trained. 


Kinds  of  Bits  319 

Such  is  not  the  case,  for  no  matter  what  kind  of 
bit  is  used  it  cannot  act  as  a  substitute  for  effective 
training. 

Because  of  the  feeling  that  any  defect,  whim  or  vice 
may  be  overcome  by  the  use  of  the  proper  bit,  many 
types  have  been  devised  to  meet  the  various  and 
pecuhar  habits  of  horses,  most  of  which  have  been 
designated  to  punish  the  horse  and  irritate  the  sensi- 
tive parts,  thus  defeating  the  object  they  were  de- 
vised to  accomphsh.  The  horse  soon  learns  that  by 
constant  pulling  the  resulting  pain  gradually  be- 
comes less,  due  to  the  parts  becoming  numbed,  and 
as  a  result  the  animal  develops  a  hard  mouth  lacking 
in  sensitiveness.  If  the  bit  is  to  remain  effective  in 
horse  training,  it  is  essential  that  the  bars  of  the 
mouth  retain  their  natural  sensitiveness.;  that  the 
bit  be  an  easy  and  light  one,  and  that  it  be  handled 
with  care. 

The  several  makes  of  bits  may  be  classified  in 
two  ways  :  first  according  to  their  form,  such  as 
straight  bar,  jointed,  and  curb  ;  and  second,  accord- 
ing to  their  function,  as  mild,  medium  and  severe. 
The  straight  bar  bit  is  one  with  a  solid  mouth-piece 
and  without  lever  action  (Fig.  94,  1  to  8).  It  is 
sometimes  made  with  cheek-pieces  (Fig.  94,  2  and 
4),  and  sometimes  without  (Fig.  94,  1  and  3).  With 
this  form  of  bit  there  is  a  minimum  amount  of  pres- 
sure on  the  bars  of  the  horse's  mouth  and  a  maximum 
on  the  tongue.     This  is  the  mildest  form  of  bit. 


03^ 


Fig.  94.  —  Bits.  1,  Plain  bar  ;  2,  Half  cheek  bar  ;  3,  Humane  ;  4,  Chain 
center,  rubber  covered  ;  5,  Rubber  tongue  lolling  ;  6,  Tongue  lolling  ; 
7,  Detroit  leather  ;  8,  Straight  cushion  ;  9,  Racine  spring  ;  10,  Success  ; 
11,  J.  I.  C;  12,  Imperial ;  13,  Wind  sucking  ;  I4,  Triumph  ;  15,  Victor  ; 
16,  Perfection  ;  17,  Cheek  riding  ;  18,  Half  cheelc  jointed  ;  19,  Nodine, 
rubber  covered;  20,  Plain  jointed;  21,  Chain;  22,  "Wilson  4-ring ; 
23,  Sanborn  ;  24,  W-wire  ;  25,  Racing  ;  26,  Half  cheek  mouthing  ; 
27,  Full  cheek  mouthing ;  28,  Norton  ;  29,  Jointed  cushion  ;  30,  Rock- 
well;  31,  2-ring  riding;  32,  4-ring  riding;  33,  U.  S.  Army  riding; 
34,  Liverpool  coach  ;  35,  Elbow  coach  ;  36,  Full  ring  elbow  coach. 


Bits  Described  321 

As  a  matter  of  fact,  a  smooth,  good-sized  straight 
bit  sHghtly  enlarged  at  the  ends  near  the  rings  or 
covered  with  rubber  or  leather  cannot  be  improved 
upon  in  most  cases.  It  is  essential  that  the  straight 
bit  be  of  proper  length  for  the  horse's  mouth.  It  is 
not  uncommon  to  observe  a  bit  of  this  type  that  is 
too  long  for  the  animal  (p.  60).  One  important 
matter  that  must  always  be  taken  into  account  when 
fitting  the  straight  bit  is  that  the  jaws  of  some  horses 
are  much  narrower  than  those  of  others.  The  bit, 
therefore,  should  be  of  correct  length  for  the  partic- 
ular horse  in  hand  and  properly  adjusted. 

For  animals  with  very  tender  mouths,  the  straight 
bar  is  often  covered  with  leather  or  rubber  (Fig.  94, 
4,  7  and  8).  To  make  the  bit  still  more  mild,  often- 
times the  rubber  surrounds  a  chain  instead  of  a  bar, 
thus  making  a  very  yielding  bit  (Fig.  94,  4).  Not 
only  are  bits  of  this  type  used  on  animals  with  tender 
mouths,  but  they  are  very  efficient  in  overcoming 
some  bad  habits,  such  as  lugging  (p.  281). 

The  jointed  or  snaffle  bit  is  one  with  a  jointed 
mouth-piece  and  also  without  lever  action  (Fig.  94,  17 
to  31).  Like  the  bar  bit,  the  jointed  bit  is  sometimes 
made  with  cheek-pieces  (Fig.  94,  17  and  18),  and 
sometimes  without  (Fig.  94,  19  and  20).  With  this 
form  of  bit  there  is  a  minimum  amount  of  pressure 
on  the  tongue  and  a  maximum  amount  on  the  bars 
of  the  horse's  mouth.  This  is  a  very  useful  type 
of  bit,  and  many  horses  work  more  agreeably  with 


322  Harnessing  the  Colt 

it  than  with  the  bar  bit.  It  not  only  gives  more 
room  for  the  tongue,  but  the  pressure  is  more  evenly 
distributed  on  the  jaws  than  with  the  bar  bit.  When 
properly  arranged  this  is  a  mild  or  medium  bit  and 
a  most  useful  one,  but  when  drawn  too  tightly  by 
the  lines  it  has  a  tendency  to  pinch  the  jaws  and  may 
cause  the  horse  much  pain.  This  pinching  effect 
is  made  use  of  in  devising  severe  bits;  thus  we  have 
bits  of  the  jointed  type  containing  a  double  mouth- 
piece (Fig.  94,  9,  11,  12  and  24).  Perhaps  these 
are  the  severest  kind  of  bits. 

The  severe  bit  should  never  be  used  unless  it  is 
absolutely  necessary.  While  there  are  many  kinds 
on  the  market,  they  each  have  for  their  main  object 
that  of  punishment,  which  is  always  to  be  avoided, 
as  it  destroys  the  natural  sensitiveness  of  the  mouth. 
Such  a  bit  often  provokes  the  horse  to  lugging. 
This  habit  often  can  be  overcome  by  changing  from 
a  severe  bit  to  a  mild  one.  With  the  former  the  ani- 
mal was  in  constant  pain,  and  hence  very  nervous 
and  excited.  Being  excited,  his  only  desire  was  to 
go,  which  suggests  that  the  severe  bit  should  be 
discarded  whenever  possible.  This  is  especially 
true  of  animals  with  tender  mouths.  In  training 
and  controlling  horses,  the  bit  should  be  regarded 
as  a  means  of  conveying  to  the  animal  our  wishes 
and  not  as  an  instrument  of  torture. 

While  the  mild  or  medium  bit  is  the  one  to  use 
as  a  general  rule,  there  are  times  when  a  severe  one 


Combination '  Mild  and  Severe  Bits 


323 


%'S 


is  needed.  Because  of  this,  several  attempts  have 
been  made  to  construct  a  bit  that  can  be  variously 
applied,  so  as  to  form  either  a  mild  or  severe  bit  as 
desired  (Fig.  94,  9,  10,  11,  12,  22,  23  and  30).  Per- 
haps the  Beery  bit  furnishes  as  good  an  illustration 
of  this  principle  as  any.  This  bit  can  be  applied 
in  four  ways  :  As  a 
very  mild  and  easy 
bit  (Fig.  95,  1) ;  as 
a  most  powerful  bit 
(Fig.  95,  2);  as  a 
very  severe  bit  (Fig. 
95,  3)  and  as  a  bit  to 
cure  the  side-reining 
horse  (Fig.  95,  4). 

Curb  bits  are 
made  in  a  number 
of  styles,  but  each 
bit  consists  prima- 
rily of  a  solid  mouth- 
piece connecting 
two  cheek-pieces 

(Fig.  94,  31  to  36).  The  mouth-piece  may  be  straight 
or  curved,  the  more  common  form  having  an  upward 
curve  at  the  center  (Fig.  94,  31  to  33).  This  bit  is 
often  used  with  the  curb  chain  or  strap  which  extends 
from  one  side  around  to  the  other  beneath  the  lower 
jaw.  When  the  curb  chain  is  used,  a  lever  action  is 
obtained,  the  efficiency  of  which  depends  on  the  man- 


FiG.  95.  —  Beery  bit.   1,  Easy  ;  2,  Powerful  ; 
3,  Very  severe  ;  4<  Side  reining. 


324  Harnessing  the  Colt 

ner  in  which  the  bit  and  chain  are  arranged.  If  the 
curb  chain  is  too  tight,  causing  pain  on  the  surface  of 
the  chin,  the  horse  will  project  his  head  forward  and 
fret.  Much  care  should  be  exercised  in  adjusting  the 
bit  and  chain  so  as  to  get  sufficient  power  on  the  bars 
of  the  mouth  without  pain  on  the  chin.  A  double 
chain  worked  flat  is  best  for  general  use.  While 
many  persons  prefer  a  leather  strap  to  a  chain,  yet 
leather  is  subject  to  stretching  and  contracting  and 
is  likely  to  become  stifT  and  harsh. 

The  curb  bit  is  used  to  advantage  to  improve  the 
action  in  training  and  driving  the  high-acting  coach 
horse.  The  horse  properly  bitted  with  a  curb  bit 
gets  his  head  up  and  nose  in  and  shows  himself  to 
better  advantage  than  with  any  other  kind  of  bit. 
The  curb  bit  should  be  used  only  by  those  who  are 
familiar  with  it,  as  it  may  become  an  instrument 
of  torture  in  the  hands  of  the  inexperienced. 

In  training  a  colt  to  the  uses  of  the  bit,  a  mouthing 
bit  is  often  used.  This  consists  of  an  ordinary  jointed 
bit  provided  with  keys  at  its  center  (Fig.  94,  26  and 
27).  The  keys  hang  upon  and  tickle  the  tongue, 
and  cause  the  colt  to  champ  the  bit,  and  tend  to 
keep  his  mind  occupied  while  he  is  in  training.  It 
should  not  be  used  on  nervous  horses  (p.  58). 

A  sympathetic  feeling  should  always  exist  between 
horse  and  driver,  and  the  proper  bit  to  secure  this 
relationship  can  be  determined  only  by  trial,  and 
several  changes  are  often  necessary.     When  it  has 


Fitting  the  Bridle  325 

been  determined  which  bit  best  serves  the  purpose, 
no  further  change  should  be  made.  The  horse 
does  not  take  kindly  to  a  change  of  bits  after  be- 
coming used  to  a  certain  kind.  Such  a  change  makes 
him  uncomfortable  and  may  interfere  with  his  effi- 
ciency, particularly  his  action. 

Head-stall.  —  The  cheek-straps  should  be  properly 
adjusted  so  as  to  keep  the  bit  in  its  proper  place, 
that  is,  right  across  the  bars  of  the  mouth  just  above 
the  tushes.  This  is  very  important.  If  the  cheek- 
straps  are  too  long,  the  bit  drops  so  that  the  rings 
are  drawn  into  the  mouth.  The  horse  becomes 
careless  and  unmindful  of  our  wish.  On  the  other 
hand,  if  they  are  too  short,  the  bit  is  drawn  upward 
into  the  angles  of  the  mouth  and  becomes  a  con- 
stant source  of  annoyance  to  the  animal  and  may 
produce  a  sore  mouth.  It  is  a  common  mistake 
among  horsemen  to  draw  the  bit  up  into  the  corners 
of  the  mouth,  so  as  to  cause  slight  wrinkles.  The 
brow-band  and  throat-latch  should  be  carefully  ob- 
served, to  see  that  they  are  neither  too  loose  nor 
too  tight,  as  the  former  arrangement  is  very  annoying 
to  the  horse  and  the  latter  rather  painful,  either 
of  which  may  provoke  certain  kinds  of  vice  or  whims 
(p.  249). 

Blinds.  —  There  is  diversity  of  opinion  as  to  the 
advisability  of  using  blinds  on  the  bridle,  particularly 
during  the  training  period.  Some  horsemen  con- 
tend that  blinds  are  of  benefit,  while  others  are  just 


326  Harnessing  the  Colt 

as  certain  that  it  is  a  detriment  to  limit  the  range  of 
vision  while  training.  While  much  depends  on  the 
individuality  of  the  animal,  it  is  true  that  most 
colts  train  better  in  the  open  bridle.  As  a  matter  of 
actual  fact,  this  is  very  important  in  the  education 
of  a  driving  horse.  No  horse  can  be  said  to  be 
trained  until  he  is  familiar  with  objects  at  all  angles, 
and  to  accomplish  this  the  open  bridle  must  be  used. 
After  training,  however,  there  is  no  important  ob- 
jection to  the  use  of  blinds,  although  even  then  they 
add  weight,  are  warm  in  summer  and  very  annoying 
to  the  horse ;  but  many  horses  work  better  when 
blinds  are  used,  in  which  case  they  should  be  attached 
to  the  bridle.  If  blinds  are  used,  they  should  be 
firmly  adjusted  to  the  bridle  so  they  cannot  swing 
back  and  forth.  They  should  be  of  the  same  height 
on  the  horse's  head,  as  it  is  very  unsightly  as  well  as 
annoying  to  the  horse  to  have  one  placed  low  and 
the  other  high  on  the  face. 

Centerpieces,  earbobs,  tassels  and  brass  fixtures.  — 
Such  fixtures  add  to  the  general  appearance  of  the 
turnout.  While  fashion  and  custom  seem  to  demand 
a  certain  amount  of  unnecessary  fixtures  to  worry 
and  annoy  the  horse,  the  use  of  them  is  not  recom- 
mended. Such  parts  are  costly  and  add  nothing  to 
utility.  It  would  be  more  economical  to  use  harness 
of  a  better  quality  without  such  fixtures.  On  the 
other  hand,  brass  fixtures  are  often  of  indirect  benefit, 
as  they  promote  interest  in  caring  for  the  harness, 


Adjiisting  the  Check-rein  327 

the  driver  taking  delight  in  having  the  harness  and 
fixtures  shine.  However,  it  requires  much  rubbing 
and  pohshing  to  keep  the  brass  in  presentable  condi- 
tion. When  all  the  metal  parts  of  the  entire  har- 
ness are  brass  (Fig.  29),  it  requires  at  least  one  hour 
after  each  drive  to  keep  the  fixtures  shining  and 
from  turning  green,  as  they  will  if  not  poHshed- often. 
Compare  with  Fig.  98,  where  the  metal  parts  are 
black  and  the  harness  much  less  expensive. 

The  check-rein.  —  The  adjustment  of  the  check- 
rein  deserves  special  consideration,  as  the  efficiency 
of  the  horse  depends  much  upon  the  way  in  which 
his  head  is  held.  In  common  practice  there  are 
two  general  methods  of  checking  the  horse's  head  — 
by  means  of  the  side-rein  and  by  the  overdraw 
check-rein.  The  former  is  used  largely  on  work 
horses,  the  latter  on  driving  horses.  The  side-rein 
is  used  with  and  without  check  hooks  at  the  throat- 
latch.  Though  the  side-rein  is  not  so  effective  in 
compelling  the  horse  to  hold  his  head  up,  it  is  much 
more  comfortable  to  the  animal  and  enables  him  to 
perform  his  work  more  efficiently.  Horses  checked 
with  the  side-rein  are  not  so  likely  to  stumble  as 
those  with  the  overdraw  check-rein  and  will  pull  a 
much  heavier  load.  This  is  because  they  have  more 
liberty  with  the  head,  thereby  enabling  them  to  see 
the  ground  immediately  in  front,  and  to  lower  the 
head,  and  thus  throw  more  power  into  the  collar. 

The  overdraw  check-rein  was   devised   and  first 


328  Harnessing  the  Colt 

used  by  the  old-time  driver,  Hiram  Woodruff,  on  the 
trotting  horse  Kimball  Jackson,  and  it  was  formerly 
known  as  the  ''Kimball  Jackson"  check-rein.  It 
was  devised  to  prevent  that  once  famous  trotter 
from  getting  his  head  down  when  he  made  a  break, 
as  he  could  not  be  brought  back  to  a  trot  again  with 
his  head  down  on  his  breast.  The  rein  proved  very 
effective  for  trotting  and  pacing  horses  on  the  track 
and  its  use  became  almost  universal. 

Although  the  overdraw  check-rein  was  devised  for 
trotting  horses,  it  has  become  so  popular  that  it  is 
used  almost  exclusively  for  driving  horses.  Though 
originally  devised  for  use  on  the  track,  where  the  sur- 
face is  as  smooth  as  a  floor,  and  for  short  periods  of 
time,  at  present  it  is  used  on  roads  of  all  kinds 
and  for  indefinite  periods  of  time.  There  are  many 
strong  objections  to  its  use  on  the  driving  horse, 
especially  if  drawn  too  tight.  It  holds  the  horse's 
head  in  such  a  position  that  he  is  unable  to  see  the 
ground  immediately  in  front  of  him,  so  that  he  is  very 
likely  to  stumble  on  obstacles  in  the  road.  Further, 
it  holds  the  animal's  head  in  such  a  direction  that  he 
cannot  pull  efficiently.  This  is  particularly  true  in 
ascending  a  steep  grade.  The  horse  is  unable  to 
lower  his  head,  and  hence  can  put  little  power  into 
the  collar.  The  horse  that  is  stalled  when  thus 
reined  can  often  pull  the  load  if  unreined  or  if  the 
driver  will  ride  him,  thus  bringing  forward  the  center 
of  gravity  and  enabling  the  animal  to  put  more 


Why  a  Horse  Should  he  Reined  329 

pressure  into  the  collar.  The  overdraw  check-rein  is 
also  very  hard  on  the  horse's  back  and  front  limbs 
in  descending  a  grade.  When  drawn  too  tight  it 
holds  the  head  and  neck  in  such  an  unnatural  posi- 
tion that  they  soon  become  numbed  and  the  horse  is 
seen  to  toss  his  head  from  side  to  side  and  to  take 
other  characteristic  attitudes  in  search  of  relief. 

After  the  horse  has  become  thoroughly  familiar 
with  the  uses  of  the  bit,  he  should  always  be  reined 
mildly.  Without  the  rein  he  is  likely  to  become 
careless  in  his  habits,  shambling  in  his  gait  and  to 
yield  to  the  temptation  to  eat  grass  when  standing. 
When  the  horse  lowers  his  head  and  neck,  the  lines, 
collar  or  breast  harness  slip  down  and  he  is  likely  to 
become  tangled  in  the  harness  and  may  get  into 
difficulty. 

THE   LINES 

The  arrangement  of  the  lines  adds  much  to  the 
appearance  of  the  turnout  and  to  the  comfort  of  the 
horsed  The  spread  line  should  be  so  adjusted  as  to 
enable  the  horse  to  travel  straight  to  the  front.  It 
is  a  common  practice  in  the  cities  to  lengthen  the 
spread  lines  so  that  the  horses  in  a  team  travel  wide 
apart  or  are  well  spread.  This  spreading,  if  carried 
to  excess,  may  be  objectionable,  and  under  certain 
conditions  should  be  avoided.  Driving  horses, 
whether  in  training  or  subsequently,  should  never 
be  spread  so  wide  apart  that  they  cannot  travel 


330  Harnessing  the  Colt 

straight  to  the  front  without  turning  their  heads 
outward.  It  often  happens,  especially  in  the  coun- 
try, that  the  roads  are  not  well  broken,  the  worn  track 
narrow,  and  if  spread  too  wide  the  horses  must  turn 
their  heads  outward  in  order  to  travel  in  the  worn 
track.  On  the  other  hand,  we  sometimes  meet  the 
other  extreme :  the  horses  are  checked  too  short 
and  must  turn  their  heads  inward  in  order  to  travel 
in  the  worn  track. 

Multiple  hitch.  —  Occasionally  we  desire  to  hitch 
three  or  more  horses  abreast,  and  the  arrangement 
of  the  lines  becomes  important.  While  there  are 
many  ways  of  arranging  the  lines  in  a  four-horse 
hitch,  the  following  is  as  simple  and  effective  as  any: 
Use  a  pair  of  common  check  lines  and  attach  to  the 
outside  horses  just  as  if  hitching  two  horses ;  that 
is,  snap  the  spread  line  in  the  ring  in  the  bit  next 
to  the  outside  horse,  on  either  side.  Secure  three 
straps  about  eighteen  inches  long.  Make  them  so 
they  can  be  adjusted  to  any  length  with  a  buckle 
and  have  a  snap  in  each  end.  Snap  one  end  in  the 
right  side  ring  of  the  outside  near  horse's  bridle  and 
the  other  end  in  the  left  side  ring  of  the  horse  next 
to  him.  Snap  all  four  bits  together  in  like  manner. 
This  makes  a  very  neat  arrangement  and  has  the 
advantage  that  it  works  equally  well  with  three, 
four,  five,  or  as  many  horses  as  we  choose  to  work 
abreast. 


Kinds  of  Collars  331 

THE    COLLAR   AND    SWEAT-PADS 

Since  the  service  of  the  horse  is  so  largely  accom- 
plished by  the  shoulders,  it  is  of  the  utmost  impor- 
tance that  the  collar  fit  the  neck  and  shoulders  per- 
fectly. A  poorly  fitted  collar  causes  the  horse  much 
pain,  results  in  sore  neck  and  shoulders,  and  is  a 
common  cause  of  viciousness,  particularly  balking. 
Collars  of  many  types  have  been  devised  to  meet 
the  needs  of  the  horse,  chief  of  which  are  various 
styles  of  the  common  leather,  the  pneumatic,  the 
metal  and  the  humane,  each  asserting  superiority 
over  the  others. 

The  pneumatic  collar  consists  of  a  metal  frame 
lined  with  rubber,  which  is  inflated  siixiilarly  to  a 
bicycle  tire  (Fig.  96,  2).  Some  of  the  points  made  for 
it  are  :  that  it  presents  to  the  horse's  shoulder  a  soft, 
pliable  cushion ;  the  pressure  is  always  evenly  dis- 
tributed over  the  pulling  surface  ;  no  sweat-pads  are 
needed ;  always  cool ;  and  that  it  prevents  all  forms 
of  sore  neck  and  shoulders. 

The  bearing  surface  of  a  metal  collar  is  shaped 
somewhat  like  that  of  a  leather  collar,  and  all  the 
parts  are  of  metal  (Fig.  96,  3).  Some  of  the  state- 
ments in  its  favor  are  :  that  the  metal  parts  keep  the 
shoulders  hard  and  cool ;  the  shoulders  do  not  sweat, 
first  preventing  scalds  and  then  sores ;  its  surface  is 
smooth ;  it  fits  correctly,  as  it  can  be  adj  usted  in 
either  width  or  length;  and  it  never  wears  out. 


332 


Harnessing  the  Colt 


The  humane  collar  differs  in  shape  from  any  of 
the  others.  It  consists  of  a  metal  frame  and  two 
broad  leather  pads,  one  for  either  shoulder  (Fig. 
96,  1).  Some  of  the  points  made  for  it  are:  that 
the  pulling  surface  is  properly  distributed ;  the  horse 
can  pull  a  load  easier  because  the  pulling  surface  is 
greater  than  in  the  old-style  hame  collar  ;  the  burden 


Fig.  96.  —  Patent  collars.     1,  Humane  ;  2,  Pneumatic  ;  3,  Steel. 

of  pulling  comes  about  the  lower  shoulder  joint,  giving 
the  horse  a  chance  to  step  without  bruising  the 
joint  where  most  bruises  come ;  there  is  no  pressure 
on  the  thin  skin  and  flesh  over  the  shoulder-blades, 
where  so  much  trouble  is  caused  with  old-style 
collars ;  there  is  no  pressure  at  all  on  top  of  the 
neck,  on  the  wind  pipe  or  breast  to  shut  off  the  horse's 
breathing;  and  that  it  is  less  trouble  to  put  on  and 
take  off  as  well  as  to  fit  any  horse  perfectly  at  all 
times  by  simple  adjustment. 


Leather  Collars 


333 


Notwithstanding  all  assertions  made  by  the  adher- 
ents of  these  patent  collars,  the  leather  collar  still 
holds  first  place  among  horsemen  generally.  To 
meet  the  various  needs  of  the  horse,  the  leather  collar 


Fig.  97.  —  Leather  collars.  1,  Common  leather;  3,  Half  sweeny; 
3,  Full  sweeny  ;  4,  Double  ribbon  seam  ;  5,  Kangaroo  lined  ;  6,  Irish 
collar. 

is  made  in  many  shapes,  as  the  full  sweeny,  half 
sweeny,  Irish  or  cloth-faced,  kangaroo  leather  face, 
common  leather  face  and  the  like  (Fig.  97).  The 
sweeny  collar  is  intended  for  use  on  the  horse  suffer- 


334  Harnessing  the  Colt 

ing  from  sweenied  shoulder,  the  Irish  and  the  kanga- 
roo leather-faced  for  the  horse  with  tender  shoulders, 
and  the  common  leather  for  ordinary  work. 

The  fitting  and  adjusting  of  the  leather  collar 
should  receive  careful  attention.  In  the  manufacture 
of  collars  the  leather  is  soaked  until  it  is  limp  as  a 
rag  and  then  fitted  over  a  metal  form  representing 
the  shape  of  the  horse's  neck.  When  dry,  these 
collars  are  so  firm  and  stiff  that  usually  it  is  impossible 
to  buckle  the  harness  tight  enough  to  bring  it  to  the 
shape  of  the  animal's  neck,  and  the  shoulders  are 
therefore  adjusted  to  the  collar  rather  than  the 
collar  to  the  shoulders,  with  sore  shoulders  as  the 
result.  The  neck  and  shoulders  of  no  two  horses  are 
alike.  To  avoid  this  soreness  it  is  essential  that  the 
stiff  collar  be  adjusted  to  the  shoulders  of  the  horse 
for  which  it  is  intended.  To  do  this,  take  the  poorly 
fitting  collar,  new  or  old,  wrap  it  round  and  round 
again  with  a  thoroughly  wet  cloth  or  sacking ;  or 
place  the  unwrapped  collar  in  three  inches  of  water 
and  let  it  remain  overnight.  In  the  morning  put 
the  collar  on  the  horse,  and  with  hame  straps  draw 
it  snugly  to  the  sides  of  the  neck ;  be  sure  that  the 
hame  straps  are  properly  adjusted,  then  work  the 
horse  moderately  through  the  day.  After  working 
in  this  way,  the  collar  will  adjust  itself  to  every 
inequality  of  the  shoulder  and  the  horse  will  seldom 
be  troubled  with  soreness. 

Since  the  shoulders  of  no  two  horses  are  alike,  each 


When  to  Use  Sweat-pads  335 

should  have  his  own  collar.  It  should  fit  closely  to 
the  neck  along  its  entire  length  and  should  never  be 
tight  in  some  places  and  loose  in  others.  The  hame- 
straps  should  be  properly  adjusted  at  top  and  bottom ; 
be  sure  at  all  times  that  the  lower  hame-strap  is 
buckled  as  tightly  as  the  thickness  of  the  neck  will 
permit,  otherwise  the  harness  may  slip  off  the  collar 
when  the  horse  is  backed. 

Sweat-pads.  —  A  collar  that  will  fit  in  the  early 
spring  when  the  horse  is  fat  may  be  too  large  later, 
when  he  is  worked  down,  so  that  it  may  be  necessary 
to  use  sweat-pads  or  get  another  collar.  Sweat- 
pads,  however,  should  not  be  used  unless  it  is  neces- 
sary, as  they  are  very  warm  and  the  neck  and  shoul- 
ders can  be  kept  in  a  more  healthy  condition  without 
them,  providing  a  properly  fitted  collar  is  employed. 
When  the  pads  are  used  they  should  be  cleaned  and 
dried  daily.  To  remove  the  dirt,  some  dip  them  in 
gasoline  or  benzine,  though  a  thorough  washing 
with  soap  and  water  is  equally  as  efficient.  After 
washing  they  should  be  thoroughly  dried  before 
using. 

Breast  harness.  —  For  light  driving,  such  as  run- 
abouts, buggies  and  the  like,  breast  harness  is  pre- 
ferred to  the  collar.  In  fitting  breast  harness  care 
must  be  exercised  in  adjusting  the  neck  strap,  for 
if  too  long,  the  harness  will  drop  and  interfere  with 
the  action  of  the  fore  limbs,  or  if  too  short,  the 
harness  will  be  drawn  up  and  choke  the  animal, 


336 


Harnessing  the  Colt 


particularly  in  ascending  a  grade.  The  breast  har- 
ness is  intended  for  light  work  only,  and  if  the  load 
is  heavy,  the  horse  may  choke. 

The  hame-tug.  —  The  proper  adjustment  of  the 
hame-tug  adds  much  to  the  efficiency  of  the  horse 
and  is  an  important  factor  in  preventing  sore  shoul- 
ders. If  the  draft  is  too  low,  the  action  of  the 
shoulder  while  walking  gives  too  much  back-and- 
forward  motion  to  the  collar.  This  is  noticeable  by 
the  motion  at  the  tops  of  the  hames  as  the  horse 
walks.  This  constant  motion  is  likely  to  cause  sore 
shoulders  either  at  the  points  or  at  the  top.  If  the 
draft  is  too  low,  the  likelihood  to  injury  is  equally  as 
great.  Further,  the  tugs  should  be  of  equal  length. 
It  is  not  uncommon  to  observe  one  tug  hitched  longer 
than  the  other,  which  materially  lessens  the  horse's 
efficiency  and  is  likely  to  cause  sore  neck  and  shoul- 
ders. 


THE    CRUPPER   AND    BACK-STRAP 

Next  in  importance  perhaps  to  the  bit  and  collar 
is  the  crupper.  In  training  as  well  as  for  subsequent 
use,  the  large  stuffed  crupper  free  from  folds  is 
recommended.  In  fitting  the  crupper  extra  care  must 
be  exercised  in  adjusting  the  check-rein  and  back- 
strap,  for  if  either  are  too  short  the  crupper  will  be 
drawn  tightly  against  the  tail.  Since  the  under  part 
of  the  tail  is  very  tender,  this  is  likely  to  cause  soreness 
and  thus  lessen  the  reliability  of  the  horse.     The 


Adjusting  the  Saddle  and  Back-hand        337 

horse  with  a  sore  tail  is  often  difficult  to  manage, 
as  he  may  at  any  time  get  his  tail  over  the  line, 
become  excited  through  fear  that  the  abraded  part 
will  be  injured,  clamp  his  tail  down  on  the  line  and 
be  difficult  to  control  (p.  268).  On  the  other  hand, 
if  the  back-strap  is  too  long  and  the  crupper  too 
loose  it  may  result  in  the  back-strap,  crupper,  hip- 
strap  and  breeching  all  slipping  off  to  one  side  of  the 
horse.  It  is  important,  therefore,  that  the  check- 
rein  and  back-strap  be  so  adjusted  that  the  saddle 
remain  in  its  proper  place  on  the  back  and  the  crupper 
fit  snugl}^  under  the  tail,  then  there  will  be  little  or 
no  trouble  from  soreness. 


THE    SADDLE    AND    BACK-BAND 

While  the  saddle  is  of  less  importance  than  either 
the  bit  or  collar,  there  are  so  many  differently  shaped 
backs  that  it  is  important  to  give  the  fitting  of  the 
saddle  extra  attention.  Often  this  is  neglected  and 
a  poorly  fitting  saddle  is  used,  which  results  in  a  sore 
back,  particularly  if  the  harness  is  heavy.  Further, 
the  saddle  should  be  kept  clean  and  smooth.  When 
properly  adjusted,  clean  and  smooth,  there  is  little 
or  no  danger  that  the  horse's  back  will  become  sore 
or  abraded.  In  the  case  of  single  harness,  where 
there  is  extra  pressure  on  the  saddle,  due  to  the 
weight  of  the  shafts  or  the  like,  a  saddle  pad  should 
be  used. 

2 


338 


Harnessing  the  Colt 


THE    BREECHING   AND    HOLD-BACKS 


When  there  is  much  backing  to  be  done,  or  in 
sections  that  are  mountainous  or  hilly,  the  breeching 
and  hold-backs  assume  much  importance.  As  a 
rule,  very  little  attention  is  given  either  the  breech- 
ing or  hold-backs,  yet  their  absence  frequently  results 
in  sore  necks  and  sore  backs,  particularly  among 
work  horses.  If  the  breeching  is  too  loose  or  the 
hip-straps  too  long,  allowing  the  former  to  hang  low, 
it  will  wear  the  hair  off  the  horse's  hind  legs,  and  in 
addition,  the  vehicle  will  have  a  jerky  motion.  On 
the  other  hand,  if  the  breeching  is  too  tight,  it  will 
interfere  with  the  animal's  action  and  efficiency. 
In  mountainous  sections  the  ^' Pennsylvania"  breech- 
ing is  preferred.  This  breeching  differs  from  the 
common  in  passing  over  the  top  of  the  rump  just 
above  the  tail  instead  of  around  the  quarters. 

For  heavy  work,  care  should  be  exercised  in  choos- 
ing and  adjusting  the  hold-backs.  While  there  are 
many  makes  of  hold-backs  and  backers  on  the 
market,  they  can  all  be  divided  into  four  general 
classes ;  namely,  breeching  •  and  shaft  hold-back, 
yoke  and  collar  hold-back,  breeching  and  belly 
martingale  hold-back,  and  Boston  hold-back.  These 
hold-backs  and  backers  may  be  attached  in  a  variety 
of  ways.  The  breeching  is  used  with  each  except  the 
yoke  and  collar  backer.  Often  the  saddle  is  dis- 
carded in  the  breeching  and  belly  martingale  and 


Light  Breeching  and  Hold-hacks  339 

Boston  hold-backs,  in  which  cash  the  crotch  back- 
straps  and  hip-straps  are  usually  employed. 

The  breeching  and  shaft  hold-back  is  used  only 
with  single  rigs.  With  this  hold-back  the  breeching 
is  attached  directly  to  the  shaft  by  means  of  the  hold- 
back straps  (Fig.  19).  After  the  breeching  is  prop- 
erly adjusted,  the  main  point  to  be  noted  is  that  the 
hold-back  straps  are  of  the  proper  length.  If  too 
short,  they  draw  the  horse  forward,  thus  interfering 
with  his  action  and  efficiency ;  whereas  if  too  long,  the 
breeching  hangs  loose  and  the  rig  will  have  a  jerky 
motion  and  be  annoying  to  the  animal.  As  this 
hold-back  increases  the  draft  on  the  belly-band,  the 
latter  should  be  of  good  quality  and  properly  ad- 
justed. 

The  yoke  and  collar  hold-back  is  intended  only  for 
light  vehicles.  With  this  hold-back  the  backing  is 
accomplished  very  largely  with  the  neck  by  means 
of  the  yoke  and  collars  (Fig.  98).  Sometimes  a 
martingale-band  passing  from  the  lower  end  of  the 
collar,  the  breast-strap  or  the  yoke  between  the  fore- 
legs to  the  belly-band  is  used,  and  a  part  of  the 
backing  is  accomplished  by  pulling  down  on  the 
saddle.  With  this  attachment  it  is  very  important 
that  the  saddle  fit  properly  and  that  the  back  be 
well  protected  by  the  use  of  a  saddle  pad  or  hous- 
ings. One  reason  for  the  popularity  of  this  hold- 
back is  that  no  breeching  is  needed,  and  it  is  becom- 
ing a  fad  among  owners  of  light  harness  horses  to 


340 


Harnessing  the  Colt 


discard  the  breeching.  As  a  result,  this  backer  is 
much  misused.  While  intended  for  light  vehicles 
and  light  loads,  where  it  constitutes  a  very  neat  and 
efficient  hitch,  it  is  often  used  for  heavy  vehicles  and 


Fig.  98.  —  An  inexpensive  but  neat  driving  harness. 

heavy  loads,  where  it  is  a  frequent  cause  of  sore  necks 
and  sore  backs.  When  thus  used  it  often  provokes 
vicious  habits,  such  as  balking,  kicking,  running  away 
and  the  hke.  With  this  form  of  backer  the  wagon 
tongue  has  a  tendency  to  rise,  and  one  may  occa- 
sionally see  a  driver  hanging  on  the  tongue  to  hold  it 


Belly  Martingale  Breeching 


341 


down  and  beating  his  team  backward,  which  of  course 
cannot  be  too  strongly  condemned. 

In  the  case  of  the  breeching  and  belly  martingale 
hold-back,  much  of  the  backing  is  accomplished  by 
means    of   the    martingales    and  breeching,  though 


Fig.  99.  —  Light-work  harness,  showing  belly  martingalls  and'crotch-back 

and  hip-straps. 


extra  pressure  is  often  brought  to  bear  on  the  top  of 
the  neck  in  addition  (Fig.  99) .  While  this  is  a  more 
efficient  backer  than  the  yoke  and  collar,  it  is  open 
to  the  same  general  criticisms  in  respect  to  produc- 
ing sore  neck.  As  the  saddle  is  often  discarded,  it 
does  not  of  course  injure  the  back. 


342 


Harnessing  the  Colt 


When  the  loads  are  heavy  and  there  is  consider- 
able backing  to  do,  the  Boston  hold-back  and  backer 
is  recommended.  With  this  form  of  hold-back  the 
backing  is  accomplished  with  the  breeching  by  means 


Fig.  100.  —  Heavy  work  harness,  with  Boston  backer. 


of  tugs  extending  from  the  breeching  to  the  jockey 
yoke,  which  is  attached  directly  to  the  neck-yoke 
(Fig.  100).  The  draft  is  in  a  straight  line  from  the 
end  of  the  tongue  to  the  quarters,  thus  giving  the 
horse  his  maximum  efficiency  in  backing.     This  is 


Harness  343 

the  easiest  on  the  horse,  as  there  is  but  Httle  pressure 
at  the  top  of  the  neck  and  none  on  the  back. 

CHOOSING   HARNESS 

When  it  comes  to  choosing  harness,  there  are  so 
many  items  to  be  taken  into  account  that  the  task  is 
often  a  difficult  one.  When  we  visit  the  harness 
store  or  examine  the  harness  sale  catalogue,  we  are 
rather  bewildered  by  the  great  variety  of  styles  — 
black  leather,  polished  leather,  russet  leather  and 
woven  web,  cut  into  all  imaginable  shapes  and  styles. 
No  attempt  is  made  here  to  go  into  the  matter  in 
detail;  only  a  few  of  the  general  difficulties  are 
noted.  The  purchaser  should  first  consider  the  kind 
of  service  to  which  the  harness  is  to  be  put,  — whether 
it  is  intended  for  light  driving,  heavy  driving,  light 
work,  heavy  work  or  for  fancy  and  fashionable 
turnouts. 

In  choosing  useful  harness,  the  fewer  trimmings  the 
better.  While  white  rings,  brass  trimmings  and  extra 
fixtures  may  add  much  to  the  appearance  of  the 
turnout  and  serve  as  an  advertisement,  especially 
if  they  are  kept  clean  and  shining,  they  do  not  add 
to  the  usefulness  of  the  harness.  Extra  fixtures 
hanging  here  and  there  annoy  the  horses  and  in 
warm  weather  often  prove  to  be  uncomfortable. 
Further,  as  has  been  stated  in  fitting  the  bit  and 
bridle  (p.  327),  these  brass  trimmings  require  much 


344  Harnessing  the  Colt 

work  to  keep  them  presentable.  This  extra  time 
might  more  profitably  be  utilized  in  grooming  the 
horses  (p.  357).  Nothing  is  so  inappropriate  as  well- 
polished  harness  on  poorly  groomed  horses.  In 
choosing  work  harness,  therefore,  discard  the  extra 
fixtures,  trimmings  and  the  like.  On  the  other  hand, 
in  choosing  harness  for  fancy  or  fashionable  turnouts, 
for  display,  for  advertisement  and  the  like,  the  more 
trimmings  and  brass  fixtures  it  contains  the  better 
it  serves  the  purpose  intended. 

There  is  an  arrangement  in  connection  with  the 
use  of  heavy  harness  that  would  result  in  much  com- 
fort to  the  horse  and  in  a  saving,  if  it  could  be  at- 
tained. It  is  to  secure  light  parts  where  light  parts 
will  serve,  as  in  the  bridle,  reins,  lines,  back-straps 
and  the  like,  and  to  use  heavy  harness  only  where 
needed,  as  in  the  tugs,  hold-backs,  breeching  and 
breast-straps.  There  is  no  need  of  having  heavy, 
wide-leathered  bridles,  heavy  reins,  lines,  back- 
bands,  even  on  heavy  harness,  as  they  play  no  part 
in  bearing  the  load  and  are  often  a  hindrance  to  both 
horse  and  driver,  and  in  addition  they  are  rather 
expensive.  Lighter  harness  where  it  bears  no  part 
of  the  load  will  serve  every  purpose. 

CARING   FOR   HARNESS 

Harness  should  be  properly  cared  for,  as  this  will 
increase  the  length  of  its  usefulness  and  lessen  the 


Cleaning  and  Oiling  Harness  345 

liability  of  its  injuring  the  horse.  It  is  very  impor- 
tant that  the  bearing  parts  be  kept  scrupulously 
clean  at  all  times.  This  applies  especially  to  the 
parts  in  constant  contact  with  the  animal,  as  the 
collar,  saddle,  crupper  and  the  like.  It  is  not 
possible  to  prevent  sore  shoulders,  sore  back  and 
sore  tail,  if  these  parts  are  permitted  to  become 
dirty,  which  they  will,  because  of  the  sweat  and 
dandruff,  unless  they  are  carefully  watched  and 
frequently  cleaned.  These  parts  should  be  thor- 
oughly cleaned  each  morning  before  harnessing, 
or  better  still,  immediately  after  removing  the 
harness. 

.  The  entire  harness  should  be  thoroughly  cleaned 
and  oiled  at  least  once  each  year.  The  simplest 
way  of  doing  this  is  to  take  the  harness  apart  and 
soak  the  parts  for  fifteen  minutes  in  a  wash-tub 
of  luke-warm  water  containing  a  handful  of  washing 
soda;  then  scrub  the  parts  with  a  scrub  brush,  and 
when  dry,  oil  with  neat's-foot  oil  to  which  a  small 
amount  of  kerosene  and  a  little  lampblack  have 
been  added ;  next  hang  up  to  dry,  taking  care  not 
to  dry  in  the  sun  or  by  the  fire,  and  finally  sponge 
with  castile  soap  and  buckle  the  parts  together. 
Yet  there  can  be  no  denying  the  fact  that  water 
injures  the  harness,  particularly  the  polished  and 
fancy  parts.  In  the  case  of  fancy  harness,  the  mud 
and  dirt  should  be  permitted  to  dry.  Then  it  should 
be  removed  with  a  brush  stiff  enough  to  answer  the 


346  Harnessing  the  Colt 

purpose  but  not  so  coarse  as  to  injure  the  grain  of 
the  leather.  It  is  important  that  the  straps  be 
rubbed  with  the  grain,  which  lays  down  the  fiber  and 
gives  a  smooth  edge.  Next,  the  harness  should  be 
taken  apart  and  cleansed  with  a  sponge  dampened 
with  soapsuds,  using  only  as  much  water  as  is  neces- 
sary. When  cleansed,  wipe  dry  and  oil  with  a  little 
neat's-foot  oil  applied  with  the  sponge,  then  apply 
some  good  harness  blacking,  and  polish.  Harness 
treated  in  this  way  will  neither  turn  red  nor  become 
gummy,  and  if  often  sponged  with  white  castile 
soap,  can  be  kept  looking  like  new. 

When  not  in  use,  the  harness  should  be  covered 
with  a  sheet  and  hung  in  a  room  constructed  espe- 
cially for  it,  as  dust,  dampness  and  vermin  tend  to 
injure  the  leather  and  tarnish  the  fixtures.  It 
frequently  happens  that  the  harness  is  hung  on 
hooks  just  back  of  the  horse  in  the  stable.  This  is 
very  objectionable.  In  the  first  place,  gases  escap- 
ing from  the  manure  are  very  destructive  to  the 
leather,  and  in  the  second  place,  the  harness  is 
often  knocked  down  under  the  horse's  feet  and 
becomes  soiled  with  manure.  It  is  much  more  de- 
sirable to  have  a  harness-room  convenient  to  the 
horse  stable  where  all  harness  can  be  kept,  as  it  is 
much  less  difficult  to  keep  in  order,  and  if  we  have 
a  hanger  for  each  horse's  harness  and  hang  it  there 
each  time,  the  work  will  be  much  lighter  than  other- 
wise. 


Fly  Protectors  347 

It  is  often  very  convenient  and  sometimes  eco- 
nomical to  be  provided  with  a  repair  kit  to  mend 
harness  whenever  needed,  as  it  often  saves  delay 
in  sending  to  the  shop.  To  make  simple  repairs  is 
not  difficult,  and  the  repair  kit  is  inexpensive.  We 
should  provide  a  wood  clamp  for  holding  the  leather 
to  stitch ;  round  knife,  gage  knife,  square  point 
trimming  knife  ;  four-tube  punch  ;  paper  of  needles  ; 
ball  of  thread ;  ball  of  wax ;  three  different  sized 
awls ;  collar  awl ;  rivet  set ;  box  of  assorted  rivets 
and  a  pair  of  pliers;  all  of  which  can  be  obtained  for 
approximately  five  dollars.  With  such  a  kit  of 
tools  on  hand,  one  can  keep  his  harness  in  the  best  of 
repair  at  a  very  small  cost. 

FLY-NETS    AND    FLY-BLANKETS 

The  proper  use  of  fly-nets  or  fly-blankets  often 
brings  much  comfort  to  the  horse.  In  the  summer, 
therefore,  when  the  flies  are  troublesome,  the  horse 
should  be  provided  with  either  a  fly-net  or  a  fly- 
blanket,  as  they  are  more  effective  than  any  of  the 
^'fly-killer"  preparations  that  have  been  com- 
pounded. The  fly-blanket,  though  not  advised  by 
many  persons,  because  it  is  not  so  presentable  and  is 
much  warmer  than  the  open  net,  nevertheless  is  very 
effective  in  keeping  out  the  flies  and  retains  the 
natural  color  of  animals  that  fade  on  exposure  to  the 
sun.     Leather  fly-nets  are  the  most  presentable,  and 


348 


Harnessing  the  Colt 


therefore  the  most  desired  by  horsemen  generally. 
The  horse  should  always  be  provided  with  a  throat- 
latch  cloth  when  the  bot-flies  are  present,  as  these 
pests  are  very  annoying,  and  the  animal  in  fighting 
them  will  often  become  excited,  with  a  consequent 
lessening  of  his  usefulness. 


CHAPTER  X 
CARE  OF   THE  COLT  IN   TRAINING 

Having  considered  at  some  length  the  various 
methods  of  bringing  out  the  best  there  is  in  the  colt, 
we  will  now  discuss  the  more  important  factors  influ- 
encing his  general  development.  No  matter  how 
efficient  the  method  of  education,  it  is  not  possible 
to  bring  out  that  which  the  animal  does  not  possess; 
hence  the  general  development  should  receive  much 
consideration  in  training.  This  is  often  sadly 
neglected,  with  the  result  that  the  colt  runs  down  in 
condition  and  loses  courage.  In  reality,  he  is 
^^ broken"  in  spirit  and  obeys,  or  more  accurately  does 
not  resist,  because  he  has  not  sufficient  energy  to  do 
otherwise.  Such  a  colt  is  not  educated,  but  is 
simply  worn  out  instead.  It  is  the  horse  thus 
treated  that  frequently  gives  his  owner  a  surprise, 
when  the  animal  regains  his  former  condition,  by 
rearing,  kicking,  running  away  and  the  like.  It  is 
highly  desirable,  therefore,  to  keep  the  colt  in  the 
pink  of  condition  from  the  time  of  foaling,  so  that  he 
may  develop  both  mentally  and  physically. 

349 


350  Care  of  the  Colt  in  Training 

EXERCISE    AND    DEVELOPMENT 

The  idea  is  somewhat  prevalent  that  colts  brought 
up  roughly,  permitted  to  rough  it  through  all  sorts  of 
weather,  and  on  scant,  coarse  food,  develop  hardness 
and  endurance,  and  that  high  feeding  and  good  care 
will  cause  an  otherwise  good  colt  to  grow  into  an 
unsound  horse,  lacking  hardiness  and  endurance. 
Practical  results  in  many  cases  have  been  such  as  to 
warrant  this  belief,  not  that  there  is  anything  bad 
in  generous  and  liberal  feeding,  or  good  in  starva- 
tion and  exposure,  but  that  the  colts  that  roughed 
it  always  had  pure  air  and  abundant  exercise,  without 
which  there  can  be  no  sound  and  healthy  develop- 
ment. 

An  abundance  of  fresh  air  and  exercise  are  factors 
in  the  raising  and  developing  of  a  colt  second  to  no 
others.  It  is  for  this  reason  that  we  recommend 
working  the  brood  mare  both  before  and  after  foaling, 
working  the  stallion  when  possible  and  permitting 
the  foal  to  follow  the  dam  into  the  field  when  con- 
venient. The  colt  needs  abundant  opportunity  for 
exercise  in  the  fresh,  pure  air,  uncontaminated  by 
stable  odors,  as  this  is  essential  to  a  healthy  develop- 
ment in  all  young  animals.  It  is  not  sufficient  that 
he  be  led  out  for  exercise  at  stated  intervals.  He 
needs  the  opportunity  to  romp  and  play,  that  he  may 
extend  his  muscles  to  their  utmost  capacity,  expand 
his  lungs  to  their  very  depths  and  send  the  blood 


Exercise  Promotes  Development  351 

coursing  through  his  veins  with  much  vigor.  This 
is  essential  to  a  healthy,  robust  development  of  heart 
and  lungs,  bone  and  muscle,  and  nowhere  can  it  be 
obtained  in  so  great  perfection  as  in  the  freedom  of 
the  open  field. 

The  colt  that  is  kept  in  the  stall  and  fed  highly  on 
heating  grains  is  seldom  given  an  opportunity  for  this 
health-giving  exercise.  He  grows  up  a  stiff,  clumsy 
animal,  deficient  in  stamina  and  vigor,  with  his 
endurance  greatly  reduced  and  this  all  for  the  want 
of  what  is  so  free  —  fresh  air  and  exercise.  The 
best  plan  is  to  promote  the  growth  of  the  colt  by 
an  abundance  of  nutritious  food,  and  to  secure  a 
healthy  and  perfect  development  by  permitting  him 
to  romp,  race  and  play  at  will.  If  this  practice  is 
followed,  all  that  is  good  in  roughing  it  will  be 
attained  and  all  that  is  bad  or  dangerous  in  generous 
feeding  will  be  avoided. 

In  the  summer  the  required  exercise  may  be  ob- 
tained by  permitting  the  colt  the  run  of  a  pasture  or 
paddock,  while  in  the  winter  it  is  a  good  plan  to  fit  up 
a  box  stall  with  the  outside  door  opening  to  a  lot  or 
paddock.  This  door  may  be  left  open  at  all  times, 
except  in  the  severest  of  weather,  though  even  then 
the  colt  should  be  let  out  a  few  hours  each  day.  As 
winter  comes  on  he  will  grow  a  heavy  coat  of  hair, 
which  will  afford  him  ample  protection.  When  con- 
venient, it  is  a  good  plan  to  let  two  colts  run  together. 
Colts  cared  for  in  this  manner  will  spend  much  of 


352  Care  of  the  Colt  in  Training 

their  time  out  in  the  lot  at  play  and  will  get  the  much 
needed  exercise.  While  there  is  always  more  or  less 
risk  attached  to  permitting  the  colts  to  play  on  slip- 
pery or  frozen  ground,  it  must  be  borne  in  mind  that 
it  is  not  possible  to  raise  horses  of  quality  and  en- 
durance unless  they  are  vigorously  exercised  at  all 
times  irrespective  of  climatic  conditions. 

FEEDING   AND    DEVELOPMENT 

To  encourage  maximum  development,  the  colt 
should  be  liberally  fed  from  the  time  of  foaling.  As 
a  general  rule,  it  is  not  possible  to  get  him  too  fat 
before  he  is  two  years  old.  There  are  two  periods 
in  the  colt's  early  life  when  much  care  must  be  exer- 
cised in  feeding  him.  The  first  one  is  from  foaling 
up  to  say  three  weeks  of  age,  and  the  second  immedi- 
ately after  weaning.  Many  mares  are  very  poor 
milkers  at  best,  and  the  youngster  is  often  stunted 
before  he  is  old  enough  to  eat.  On  the  other  hand, 
some  mares  are  very  good  milkers  and  provide  more 
milk  than  is  good  for  the  colt.  If  he  is  permitted  to 
take  it  all,  he  is  likely  to  suffer  from  indigestion, 
which  usually  produces  scours  or  constipation  and  if 
not  attended  to  may  prove  fatal.  When  the  colt 
is  attacked  with  such  troubles,  it  is  very  important 
to  cut  down  his  supply  of  "milk  and  draw  a  part  of 
the  milk  from  the  dam  by  hand.  This  should  be 
continued  until  the  colt  can  take  it  all  with  no  ill 


Feeding  Promotes  Development  353 

effect.  When  the  mare  does  not  supply  sufficient 
milk,  the  colt  should  be  fed  a  small  amount  of  fresh 
milk  from  a  cow.  When  this  is  done,  one  should 
choose  milk  rather  low  in  percentage  of  butter-fat, 
as  milk  too  rich  is  likely  to  cause  indigestion.  This 
should  be  given  in  very  small  amounts  at  first,  not  to 
exceed  a  pint  twice  daily  when  the  younster  is  one 
week  old,  and  in  smaller  quantities  if  given  younger. 
This  may  be  increased  slowly  as  the  colt  becomes 
able  to  take  it.  If  it  seems  necessary  that  the  colt 
have  extra  milk  after  he  is  six  weeks  old,  skimmed 
milk  should  be  substituted  for  whole  milk.  The 
change  should  be  made  very  gradually.  In  feeding 
milk,  it  is  important  that  it  always  be  fed  sweet. 

As  soon  as  the  colt  is  old  enough,  he  should  be  en- 
couraged to  nibble  at  grain,  preferably  oatmeal. 
As  a  rule  he  will  begin  to  munch  in  the  grain  and  hay 
at  two  or  three  weeks  of  age  and  should  be  encouraged 
to  eat.  It  is  a  good  plan  to  arrange  a  grain  box  for 
the  colt's  convenience,  though  some  prefer  to  lower 
the  dam's  grain  box  so  the  colt  can  eat  from  the 
mother's  supply.  In  this  way  the  colt  may  be  taught 
to  eat,  so  that  when  taken  from  the  dam  at  weaning 
time  he  will  not  miss  his  mother  so  much. 

In  choosing  the  ration  for  the  growing  colt,  it  is 
important  that  much  protein  be  supplied,  as  this 
constituent  is  essential  in  the  formation  of  bone, 
muscle,  blood,  nerve,  hair  and  hoof.  The  food 
should  be  palatable  and  easily  digested.  Such  foods 
2a  ' 


354 


Care  of  the  Colt  in  Training 


as  oats,  bran,  peas,  linseed  meal  and  perhaps  a  little 
corn  may  constitute  the  grain,  while  alfalfa,  clover 
and  mixed  hays,  which  should  always  be  sweet,  may 
constitute  the  roughage.  Perhaps  the  following 
grain  mixture  cannot  be  materially  improved  upon 
for  the  growing  colt :  45  pounds  ground  oats,  35 
pounds  bran,  10  pounds  corn  meal  and  10  pounds 
linseed  meal.  The  exact  amount  of  the  mixture 
that  should  be  fed  will  depend  largely  on  the  indi- 
vidual. On  the  average,  however,  excellent  results 
will  be  obtained  by  feeding  the  weanling  4  pounds 
of  grain  daily  and  all  the  sweet  clover,  alfalfa  or 
mixed  hay  he  will  consume,  which  will  be  from  6  to 
10  pounds  each  day;  by  feeding  the  yearhng  6  pounds 
of  grain  daily  and  all  the  hay  he  will  take,  which  will 
vary  from  12  to  15  pounds  each  day,  and  by  feeding 
the  two-year-old  8  pounds  of  grain  daily  and  all  the 
hay  he  will  consume,  which  will  vary  from  15  to  20 
pounds  daily. 

Many  excellent  horsemen  prefer  to  feed  whole 
oats  once  a  day,  preferably  in  the  morning,  and  the 
mixed  feed  at  noon  £tnd  night.  For  best  results 
the  colt  should  be  fed  the  grain  ration  three  times 
daily,  though  many  feed  but  twice,  morning  and 
night.  It  is  not  necessary  to  feed  the  hay  three 
times  unless  equally  as  convenient  as  feeding  twice. 
To  develop  strong  and  thrifty  colts,  grain  should  be 
fed  in  summer  as  well  as  winter,  particularly  in  the 
early  spring,  when  the  grass  is  very  succulent,  and  in 


Feeding  and  Watering  355 

the  fall,  when  the  grass  is  rather  short  and  flies 
troublesome.  In  the  summer,  shade  of  some  kind 
should  be  provided  in  the  absence  of  trees. 

The  ration  for  the  trotting  colt  in  training  will  vary 
somewhat  from  that  fed  other  colts.  Perhaps  noth- 
ing excels  oats  as  the  principal  grain  ration,  though 
they  should  be  supplemented  from  time  to  time  with 
bran  and  barley,  if  convenient.  A  good  night  ration 
is  made  from  three  parts  ground  oats,  one  part  of  bar- 
ley and  a  handful  of  bran,  mixed  and  steamed,  and 
fed  as  a  mash.  For  the  colt  in  training  most  horse- 
men prefer  old,  sweet,  clean  timothy  hay,  as  new 
timothy,  clover  and  alfalfa  have  a  loosening  effect 
upon  the  bowels  of  the  hard-working  colt.  Give 
the  colt  all  he  will  clean  up,  then  keep  him  in  good 
physical  condition  by  exercising  him  regularly. 

The  colt  should  be  fed,  watered  and  exercised 
regularly  and  uniformly  at  all  times.  He  becomes 
accustomed  to  a  certain  order,  which  should  be  fol- 
lowed. To  change  the  order  for  even  a  single  meal 
oftentimes  produces  digestive  disturbance.  There 
is  much  difference  of  opinion  as  to  the  order  of  supply- 
ing food  and  water,  as  well  as  to  the  number  of  times 
the  colt  should  be  watered  each  day.  Because  of 
the  small  size  of  the  horse's  stomach,  it  must  fill  and 
empty  itself  two  or  three  times  for  each  meal.  Dur- 
ing the  fore  part  of  the  meal  the  material  is  pushed 
into  the  intestines  almost  as  soon  as  it  enters  the 
stomach  by  the  food  that  follows,  while  toward  the 


356 


Care  of  the  Colt  in  Training 


end  of  the  meal  the  passage  is  slow  and  the  digestion 
in  the  stomach  more  perfect;  hence  it  would  seem 
that  the  more  nutritious  foods  should  be  fed  toward 
the  end  of  the  meal.  Were  this  true,  first  of  all,  we 
should  water  the  colt,  then  feed  the  hay  and  lastly 
the  grain.  On  the  other  hand,  it  is  stated  that  this 
method  of  watering  affects  the  appetite,  and  the 
horse  will  not  consume  so  much  food  as  he  otherwise 
would.  Again,  it  has  been  very  clearly  demonstrated 
that  if  a  horse  is  fed  his  grain  first  and  then  watered, 
much  of  the  food  is  carried  by  the  water  into  the 
intestines.  From  this  it  would  seem  that  there  are 
theoretical  objections,  at  least,  to  either  method. 

The  most  successful  practice  in  the  order  of  supply- 
ing food  and  water  is  to  water  the  horse  the  first 
thing  in  the  morning,  then  feed  the  grain  and  lastly 
the  hay.  Then  water  again  as  soon  as  the  horse  has 
consumed  his  morning  meal  and  before  going  to 
work.  At  noon  water  both  before  and  after  feeding, 
and  at  night  water  before  feeding  and  then  again  in 
about  two  hours  after  feeding,  or  just  before  bedding 
the  horse  for  the  night.  Colts  thus  managed  will 
never  become  so  thirsty  as  to  drink  enough  water 
to  affect  their  appetite  materially.  After  they  be- 
come accustomed  to  this  order  they  will  not  gorge 
themselves  before  the  meal,  as  they  know  they  will 
be  watered  again  before  going  to  work  or  before 
being  bedded  at  night. 

Sudden  changes  in  the  food  should   be   avoided, 


Grooming  Aids  Development  357 

as  the  colt  is  often  unable  to  accommodate  himself 
at  once  to  such  changes,  and  digestive  disorders 
follow.  Such  changes  sometimes  result  in  scouring, 
other  times  in  constipation  and  occasionally  per- 
manently weaken  the  digestive  system,  as  when  the 
colt  unaccustomed  to  grain  is  too  quickly  put  on  a 
full  feed.  If  it  is  necessary  to  make  a  change,  let  it 
be  made  gradually,  so  that  the  digestive  system  can 
adapt  itself  to  the  new  condition  without  injury. 

The  successful  horseman  will  make  a  special  study 
of  each  individual  and  modify  the  ration  according 
to  the  needs;  one  colt  may  require  a  little  more  than 
the  regular  allowance  and  the  next  possibly  a  little 
less,  because  it  is  well  recognized  that  some  young- 
sters are  much  more  difficult  to  keep  in  condition 
than  others  doing  the  same  amount  of  work  and 
under  similar  conditions. 


GROOMING   AND   DEVELOPMENT 

Efficient  grooming,  in  some  respects,  is  almost  as 
essential  as  feeding  and  watering.  The  cleaning 
and  rubbing  of  the  skin  stimulate  the  secretions  and 
improve  the  general  tone  of  the  entire  system,  but 
more  important  than  this  is  the  good  effect  upon  the 
feet  and  legs.  The  cleaning  and  rubbing  of  the  feet 
and  legs  are  very  important  factors  in  preserving 
soundness.  As  a  general  rule,  grooming  is  sadly 
neglected.     As  soon  as  the  colt  is  old  enough  to  put 


358  Care  of  the  Colt  in  Training 

into  harness,  the  object  seems  to  be  to  wear  him  out 
or  to  break  his  spirit.  He  is  worked  until  late  in 
the  evening,  hastily  put  in  the  stable,  fed  his  evening 
meal,  blanketed  without  being  permitted  to  cool  off 
and  left  for  the  night  without  cleaning  the  body  or 
feet.  The  sweat  saturates  the  blanket  and  the  colt 
remains  damp  all  night,  the  mud  chills  the  legs  and 
lessens  the  circulation,  and  the  foreign  materials 
collected  in  the  bottoms  of  the  feet  heat  and  keep 
the  sole  in  a  feverish  condition.  The  next  morning 
the  driver  comes  to  the  stable,  feeds,  removes  the 
blanket  and  with  the  comb  curries  the  body  a  very 
little,  the  legs  practically  none  and  entirely  neglects 
the  feet,  then  harnesses  the  colt  and  goes  to  work. 
At  every  step  the  colt  betrays  his  care;  he  is  stiff, 
his  joints  are  sore  and  his  courage  gone.  He  is 
indeed  ^'broken, "  to  use  the  common  term.  Soon  the 
colt  becomes  foot-sore,  side-bones,  ring-bones,  splints 
and  the  like  make  their  appearance  and  the  animal 
is  sold  or  traded  as  part  payment  for  another  and  the 
process  is  repeated.  The  owner  often  wonders  why 
his  horses  do  not  stand  the  work  as  well  as  those  of 
his  neighbor. 

In  grooming,  the  principal  tools  needed  are  a 
curry-comb,  body-brush,  flannel  cloth,  mane  and  tail 
comb,  a  half- worn  broom  for  use  on  the  legs,  and  a 
hoof-hook  (Fig.  101).  The  curry-comb  is  used 
to  loosen  the  hair  which  has  become  matted  with 
sweat  and  dirt  and  to  remove  splashes  of  mud,  thus 


Grooming  Tools 


359 


preparing  the  way  for  the  body-brush,  which  it 
also  serves  to  keep  clean.  Much  care  should  be 
exercised  in  currying  the  horse  with  a  sensitive  skin, 
as  carelessness  often  provokes  kicking,  striking, 
biting  and  the  like.  Follow  the  curry-comb  with  the 
body-brush,  and  with  the  cloth  rub   the  hair  free 


Fig.  101. 


Principal   tools  for   grooming.     1,    Curry-comb;    2,   Body- 
brush  ;  3,  Mane-  and  tail-comb. 


from  dandruff.  Straighten  out  the  snarls  and  tan- 
gles in  the  mane  and  the  tail  with  the  comb.  The 
hoof-hook,  which  is  somewhat  similar  to  a  hay-hook, 
is  used  in  cleaning  the  materials  from  the  sole  of  the 
foot.  When  the  colt  arrives  at  the  stable  with  legs 
covered  with  loose  mud,  a  half-worn  broom  is  a  very 
convenient  tool  for  removing  it. 

While   the   driver   often   takes   much  interest   in 
rubbing   the   body   and   in   keeping   the   hair   well 


360  Care  oj  the  Colt  in  Trainirig 

brushed  out,  the  care  of  the  legs  is  really  of  more 
importance.  They  are  subject  to  severe  strain  and 
concussion,  and  if  they  are  to  be  kept  sound,  they 
must  be  thoroughly  cleaned  and  well  rubbed  so  as 
to  encourage  the  circulation  and  keep  the  parts 
warm  and  dry.  The  legs  are  the  most  exposed  to 
water,  mud  and  ice  in  winter,  often  remaining  soaked 
the  entire  day,  and  to  the  ever-present  dust  of  sum- 
mer, and  it  is  little  wonder  that  they  become  un- 
sound and  often  useless.  To  make  them  last  as  long 
as  possible,  they  should  be  thoroughly  cleaned  and 
well  rubbed  each  evening  after  the  day's  work  is 
done,  so  that  they  will  have  the  night  in  which  to 
recuperate.  Nothing  contributes  more  toward  pro- 
ducing diseased  and  unsound  limbs  than  allowing 
the  animal  to  remain  all  night  with  damp  legs  covered 
with  mud,  especially  in  damp  or  cold  stables.  The 
practice  of  not  cleaning  the  legs  and  feet  until 
morning  should  be  severely  condemned,  for  it  is  prac- 
tically useless  to  cleanse  them  at  six-thirty,  when  at 
seven  they  will  be  as  muddy  as  ever. 

If  the  animal  is  working  in  the  mud,  it  is  desirable 
that  the  hair  be  clipped  from  the  legs  as  far  up  as 
the  knees  and  hocks,  as  by  so  doing  the  animal's 
limbs  may  be  kept  clean  with  much  less  difficulty. 
In  case  the  legs  are  clipped,  it  is  all  the  more  impor- 
tant that  they  should  be  thoroughly  cleaned  and 
rubbed  each  evening  after  work. 

In  grooming,  a  very  good  order  to  pursue  is  as 


Grooming,  Clipping  and  Blanketing  361 

follows :  On  arriving  at  the  stable,  if  the  horse's 
legs  are  muddy,  they  should  be  roughly  cleaned  with 
the  half-worn  broom.  He  should  be  placed  in  the 
stall,  fed,  unharnessed  and  covered  with  a  sweat- 
blanket.  When  he  has  measurably  cooled,  remove 
the  sweat-blanket  and  let  the  hair  dry.  Then  give 
a  thorough  grooming,  spending  extra  time  rubbing 
the  legs  in  order  to  dry  them  and  stimulate  the 
circulation.  Now  the  horse  should  be  blanketed 
with  a  stable  blanket.  In  the  morning  give  the  horse 
a  complete  rubbing  to  remove  the  dandruff  and 
stimulate  the  circulation.  Horses  cared  for  in  this 
way  will  repay  for  the  extra  care  many  times  over 
in  the  satisfaction  of  seeing  them  come  from  the 
stable  in  the  best  of  spirits,  as  indicated  by  the 
pleasing  appearance,  the  snap  and  vigor  with  which 
they  lift  their  feet  and  by  the  complete  absence  of 
any  stiffness  in  the  joints.  Such  care  will  decrease 
the  unsoundness  and  greatly  increase  the  animal's 
efficiency  and  prolong  his  usefulness. 

Clipping  and  blanketing.  —  There  is  much  dif- 
ference of  opinion  as  to  the  wisdom  of  clipping  a 
colt  in  training  as  well  as  to  the  time  of  year  it  should 
be  accomplished.  It  is  stated  that  clipping  im- 
proves the  general  appearance,  renders  the  coat 
more  easily  kept  clean  and  that  a  clipped  horse  is 
less  liable  to  take  cold  than  a  long-coated  one,  be- 
cause the  evaporation  is  more  rapid  and  the  ani- 
mal does  not  get  so  warm.     While  these  statements 


362  Care  of  the  Colt  in  Training 

are  true  in  a  way,  it  must  be  admitted  that  it  is  not 
possible  to  make  a  clipped  coat  show  the  luster  of 
an  unchpped  one.  Some  horsemen  practice  clip- 
ping rather  early  in  the  fall,  perhaps  about  the 
middle  of  October,  stating  that  they  wish  the  hair 
to  attain  some  length  before  cold  weather;  while 
others  delay  the  work  until  November,  preferring  the 
later  clipping,  as  the  hair  has  its  growth  and  will  not 
grow  out  again,  whereas  if  clipped  early,  it  will  grow 
out  again  and  sometimes  necessitate  a  second  clip- 
ping in  two  or  three  weeks. 

There  are  many  excellent  horsemen  who  would  dis- 
pense with  clipping  altogether  and  keep  the  coat 
in  condition  by  blanketing  and  proper  grooming. 
By  the  proper  use  of  stable  and  outdoor  blankets 
it  is  possible  to  keep  the  coat  rather  short,  and  by 
judicious  grooming  to  keep  it  from  becoming  too 
thick,  thus  avoiding  the  necessity  of  clipping.  Coats 
thus  cared  for  can  be  made  to  carry  a  luster  that 
it  is  impossible  to  obtain  when  chpping  is  prac- 
ticed. When  this  is  the  practice,  warm  boiled  feed 
given  one  or  two  evenings  each  week  materially  adds 
to  the  luster.  Horses  thus  fed  will  shed  very  early 
in  the  spring.  When  blankets  are  used,  we  should 
provide  two  for  summer  as  well  as  winter  use.  One 
should  be  employed  as  a  sweat-blanket  to  be  used 
immediately  after  the  horse  returns  from  work  and 
while  he  cools  out,  then  to  be  removed  and  in  a  few 
minutes  to  be  replaced  by  the  second,  to  remain  on 


Grooming  and  Care  of  the  Feet  363 

the  animal  overnight.  Both  should  be  kept  scru- 
pulously clean  at  all  times,  particularly  the  summer 
blankets,  as  it  is  sometimes  preferable  to  discontinue 
their  use  rather  than  to  use  those  laden  with  dirt. 

During  the  cold  weather,  when  the  horse  is  al- 
lowed to  stand  outdoors,  he  should  be  well  protected 
with  a  blanket,  otherwise  he  may  chill.  During 
very  inclement  weather  it  is  a  good  plan  to  secure 
the  blanket  around  the  abdomen  with  safety  pins. 
As  warm  weather  approaches,  the  heavy  blanket 
should  be  substituted  for  a  lighter  one,  and  in  sum- 
mer its  use  may  be  dispensed  with  entirely,  and  a 
light  fly-blanket  employed  in  case  the  animal  is 
of  a  color  to  fade  on  exposure  to  the  sun. 

Care  of  the  coWs  feet.  —  The  feet  of  the  growing 
colt  should  receive  much  attention.  If  left  to 
nature,  the  feet  will  not  always  grow  out  full,  strong 
and  perfect  in  form.  On  stone  or  gravel  soil,  the  foot 
wears  off  as  fast  as  necessary  to  keep  it  in  fair  pro- 
portions, but  the  wearing  is  not  even.  For  this 
reason  the  colt's  feet  should  be  carefully  inspected 
at  least  once  each  month.  It  is  often  necessary 
to  shorten  the  toes.  This  should  be  done  with  a 
rasp,  which  is  the  only  instrument  that  should  be 
used  for  this  purpose.  As  a  rule,  when  the  toes  are 
kept  short,  the  quarters  will  care  for  themselves. 
The  frog  needs  special  attention,  for  if  it  gets  out 
of  contact  with  the  bearing  surface,  the  foot  will 
very  rapidly  lose  its  shape,  the  heels  will  contract 


364  Care  of  the  Colt  in  Training 

and  the  walls  at  the  quarters  become  brittle,  weak 
and  easily  split  both  from  above  and  below.  When 
a  split  occurs  from  above,  it  is  especially  difficult 
to  stop  without  blistering  or  firing;  hence  it  is  im- 
portant to  protect  the  walls.  Keep  the  toes  of  the 
proper  length,  the  walls  rounded  at  the  ground 
surface,  and  the  frog  prominent. 

It  often  happens  that  a  piece  is  broken  from  the 
side  of  the  hoof,  throwing  the  weight  of  the  body 
in  such  a  way  as  to  bring  a  strain  upon  the  joints 
of  the  leg,  which  often  causes  deformity  and  disease. 
When  such  a  break  occurs,  the  hoof  should  be  leveled 
with  a  rasp.  Equal  distribution  of  weight-bear- 
ing and  other  functional  activities  is  possible  only 
when  the  form  of  the  foot  and  the  direction  of  the 
limbs  are  correct.  Any  deviation  from  the  proper 
standing  position  will  cause  a  proportionate  over- 
taxing of  certain  parts,   resulting  in  unsoundness. 

Sound  feet  are  best  produced  by  feeding  nutri- 
tious food.  Sudden  changes  of  the  food,  periods 
of  sickness,  exposure  to  cold,  damp  weather  for 
months  at  a  time,  all  have  an  injurious  effect  upon 
the  feet.  While  the  food  and  climate  influence 
the  rate  of  growth  of  the  hoof,  on  the  average  it 
will  grow  one  third  of  an  inch  a  month.  Hind 
hoofs  grow  faster  than  fore  hoofs  and  unshod  ones 
faster  than  shod.  Thus  if  the  top  of  the  hoof  is 
injured  at  the  toe,  it  will  take  something  like  twelve 
months  to  grow  out,  if  at  the  side,  six  to  eight, 


Grooming  and  Care  of  the  Teeth  365 

and  if  at  the  heel  three  to  five  months,  depending 
somewhat  on  the  length  of  the  hoof. 

Care  of  the  coifs  teeth.  —  The  teeth  of  the  grow- 
ing colt  should  be  watched  closely  to  see  that  they 
appear  regular  and  uniform.  Soon  after  foaling, 
or  usually  within  two  weeks,  the  central  pair  of 
incisors  makes  its  appearance  in  both  the  upper 
and  lower  jaws ;  the  second  or  intermediate  pair 
appears  in  two  to  four  weeks,  and  the  third  pair  or 
corners  makes  its  appearance  about  the  fifth  or 
sixth  month  of  age.  Colts  often  suffer  from  teeth- 
ing and  it  is  very  important  that  they  receive  extra 
attention  at  this  time  or  they  will  run  down  in 
flesh.  Because  of  the  increasing  size  of  the  colt's 
jaws,  at  about  two  years  and  nine  months  of  age 
the  central  pair  of  milk  teeth  is  replaced  by  per- 
manent ones  in  both  the  lower  and  upper  jaw ;  at 
about  three  years  and  nine  months  the  intermediate 
pair  is  replaced,  and  at  about  four  years  and  nine 
months  the  corner  pair  of  milk  teeth  is  replaced  by 
the  permanent  ones.  It  is  very  important  that 
the  teeth  be  closely  observed  at  this  time,  as  the 
first  or  milk  teeth  often  persist,  causing  the  second 
or  permanent  teeth  to  grow  in  crooked  or  irregular. 
To  avoid  this,  the  persistent  milk  teeth  should  be 
removed  with  forceps. 

The  upper  jaw  of  the  horse  is  somewhat  wider 
than  the  lower  and  the  teeth  are  not  exactly  op- 
posite, thus  the  wear  is  not  equally  distributed  and 


366  Care  of  the  Colt  in  Training 

as  a  result  sharp  edges  are  often  left  unworn  on  the 
inside  of  the  lower  molars  and  on.  the  outside  of 
the  upper,  which  may  cut  or  lacerate  the  tongue  or 
cheeks,  which  become  sore.  When  the  horse  attempts 
to  eat,  the  food  irritates  the  sores  and  he  will  not 
feed  well.  This  condition  can  readily  be  felt  by 
the  hand,  and  these  sharp  edges  when  found  should 
be  taken  down  with  a  guarded  rasp. 

In  all  cases  in  which  a  horse  quids  his  food,  slob- 
bers or  otherwise  evinces  pain  in  mastication,  as 
shown  by  holding  his  head  to  one  side  while  chewing, 
the  teeth  should  be  carefully  examined.  In  addition 
to  not  feeding  well,  a  horse  whose  teeth  have  unduly 
sharp  edges,  or  which  are  otherwise  irregular,  is  likely 
to  drive  badly,  to  pull  to  one  side,  not  to  bear  on  the 
bit,  or  to  bear  on  too  hard,  to  toss  the  head  and 
start  suddenly  when  a  tender  spot  is  touched. 

ACCIDENTS    LIKELY    TO    OCCUR    IN    TRAINING 

While  in  training,  the  colt  is  more  or  less  exposed 
to  injury.  The  amount  and  severity  of  injury  will 
depend  much  on  the  activity  of  the  animal  as  well 
as  on  the  methods  of  the  driver.  The  high-strung, 
nervous  and  refractory  colt  is  more  likely  to  be  in- 
jured than  a  mild,  teachable  one,  and  the  driver 
who  is  careless  and  indifferent,  or  who  uses  severe 
methods,  is  more  likely  to  cause  injury  than  one  who 
exercises  the  utmost  care  at  all  times. 


T 


Injured  Knee  36 

^ 
The  following  list  contains  the  more  important 

of  the  common  injuries  that  a  colt  is  likely  to  sus- 
tain in  training,  and  the  suggestions  given  are  in- 
tended largely  as  a  first  aid  until  more  expert  ad- 
vice can  be  obtained,  particularly  if  the  injury  is  a 
severe  one. 

Bruised  knee.  —  In  training  a  colt  the  knees  are 
very  much  exposed  to  injury,  particularly  if  the 
double  or  single  safety  (p.  208)  is  used.  It  is  there- 
fore very  important  that  knee-pads  be  provided 
whenever  the  safety  rope  is  attached,  though  even 
then  the  knee  may  be  bruised  in  case  the  fall  is  a 
severe  one.  The  injury  may  vary  in  extent  from 
a  mere  scratch  to  a  serious  fracture  of  the  bones; 
in  any  case  it  should  receive  immediate  attention, 
as  a  slight  bruise,  if  not  cared  for,  may  result  in  a 
permanent  enlargement  of  the  knee-joint,  which  is 
often  exceedingly  difficult  to  reduce,  sometimes 
necessitating  blistering  and  firing.  In  case  the  knee 
is  simply  bruised,  bathe  it  freely  with  warm  water 
night  and  morning,  then  put  on  a  muslin  bandage 
which  has  been  soaked  in  a  liniment  composed  of 
two  ounces  of  tincture  of  arnica  to  a  pint  of  cold 
water. 

Broken  knee.  —  This  term  is  variously  applied 
to  injuries  in  which  the  skin  is  slightly  abraded  or 
broken,  to  others  in  which  the  tendons  and  sheaths, 
the  ligaments  and  even  the  bones  may  be  involved. 
If  the  skin  is  simply  abraded,  the  hair  scraped  off 


368 


Care  of  the  Colt  in  Training 


and  a  little  blood  oozing  from  the  surface,  bathe  the 
parts  freely  with  warm  water  to  which  a  little  car- 
bolic acid  has  been  added,  about  one  tablespoon- 
ful  to  the  quart.  Next  dress  with  a  white  lotion 
made  as  follows :  Zinc  sulphate,  one  ounce,  lead 
acetate,  one  ounce,  and  water,  one  quart,  to  which 
add  one  teaspoonful  of  carbolic  acid  to  increase 
its  antiseptic  properties. 

Where  the  skin  is  cut,  bathe  thoroughly  to  re- 
move dirt  and  foreign  substance,  clip  away  the  hair, 
bring  the  edges  together  and  apply  a  muslin  band- 
age around  the  knee.  In  all  cases  the  leg  must 
be  kept  as  free  from  motion  as  possible.  To  do  this, 
tie  up  the  animal's  head  so  he  cannot  lie  down  for 
a  few  days,  and  where  he  will  not  be  likely  to  strike 
his  injured  knee  against  the  manger.  If  pus  forms, 
free  exit  must  be  allowed,  and  hot  baths  applied 
until  it  subsides,  after  which  the  healing  process 
may  be  encouraged.  A  pad  or  compress  made  of 
wool  or  tow,  covered  with  the  white  of  egg  and  placed 
over  the  wound,  and  a  wet  pad  bandaged  Hghtly 
over  this  will  exclude  the  dirt. 

Bruised  fetlock.  —  The  young  horse  very  frequently 
interferes  with  the  hind  feet  in  such  a  way  that  a 
hind  foot  strikes  the  opposite  fetlock,  often  bruis- 
ing, abrading  or  scratching  the  surface.  This  is 
very  likely  to  happen  when  the  colt  is  fatigued  or 
improperly  shod.  Injury  is  sometimes  caused  by 
a  poorly  clinched  nail.     The  injury  is  usually  in- 


Accidents  of  the  Foot  369 

dicated  by  the  colt  flinching,  or  if  badly  struck  he 
may  carry  the  injured  leg  off  the  ground  for  several 
steps.  Rest  and  proper  shoeing  is  the  best  remedy. 
If  the  horse  continues  to  interfere,  boots  must  be 
placed  on  the  fetlocks  to  protect  them  from  injury 
(p.  114).  If  the  part  is  badly  bruised  and  sore,  bathe 
freely  with  cold  water  and  dress  with  cold  com- 
presses. 

Calking.  —  This  is  the  name  applied  to  injury  at 
the  top  of  the  hoof  or  coronet  and  is  usually  in- 
flicted by  the  shoe  of  the  other  foot  or  by  the  shoe 
of  another  horse.  It  is  of  quite  common  occurrence 
among  colts  in  training,  particularly  when  there  is 
much  short  turning.  As  a  rule,  when  the  colt  gets 
settled  into  a  regular  system  of  action,  this  trouble 
will  cease;  if  not,  boots  must  be  worn  to  protect  the 
exposed  parts.  If  the  parts  are  seriously  injured, 
remove  any  jagged  edge,  bathe  freely  with  warm 
water  and  apply  tincture  of  arnica  or  iodine.  Keep 
the  wound  clean,  and  bathe  three  times  a  day  with 
white  lotion  (p.  368). 

Puncture  of  the  foot  and  frog.  —  This  may  be  caused 
by  the  colt  stepping  on  a  nail  or  other  sharp  object, 
or  it  may  be  due  to  the  nails  not  being  properly 
driven  when  shod.  Occasionally  the  nails  are  actu- 
ally driven  into  the  sensitive  laminae  lining  the  in- 
terior of  the  horny  substance  of  the  foot.  When 
the  sensitive  sole  is  injured,  inflammation  usually 
occurs,  which  results  in  the  formation  of  pus.  This 
2b 


370  Care  of  the  Colt  in  Training 

may  work  its  way  up  and  form  a  running  sore  at  the 
top  of  the  hoof.  Any  injury  of  this  kind,  whatever 
its  cause,  should  be  promptly  treated,  as  it  may  re- 
sult seriously,  sometimes  producing  lockjaw. 

The  injured  spot  must  be  found,  and  if  still  re- 
maining, the  object  removed.  Wash  with  an  anti- 
septic and  rest  the  animal  until  it  heals.  On  the 
other  hand,  if  inflammation  has  begun,  freely  pare  out 
the  puncture,  so  as  to  afford  an  easy  exit  for  any 
matter  which  may  form.  Thoroughly  bathe  the 
part  and  soak  the  foot  in  warm  water  for  one  hour. 
Keep  the  parts  clean  and  dress  with  an  ointment. 
Perfect  rest  must  be  given  until  the  sole  grows  out 
again. 

Puncture  of  the  frog  is  similar  to  that  of  the  sole 
and  requires  similar  treatment.  When  taken  in 
time  it  yields  to  careful  treatment  more  readily 
than  puncture  of  the  sole.  On  the  other  hand, 
if  it  is  neglected,  it  is  likely  to  lead  to  disease  of  the 
frog,  and  canker  may  result. 

Wounds  and  stabs.  —  The  refractory  colt  is  often 
wounded  while  in  training.  The  wound  may  be 
clean  cut,  in  which  the  edges  are  smooth ;  lacerated, 
in  which  the  skin  is  torn  or  broken,  with  edges  more 
or  less  ragged  and  uneven;  and  punctured,  in  which 
the  depth  is  greater  than  the  entrance.  The  treat- 
ment will,  of  course,  vary  according  to  the  class.  In 
general,  however,  attention  should  first  be  directed 
to  cleaning  the  wound  from  all  foreign  bodies,  such 


Dressing  Wounds  371 

as  splinters,  gravel  and  the  like.  This  may  be  done 
by  permitting  lukewarm  water  to  fall  in  a  stream 
over  it,  as  the  surface  should  be  touched  as  little 
as  possible.  The  water  should  be  made  antisep- 
tic by  adding  one  tablespoonful  of  carbolic  acid 
to  each  quart.  In  case  there  is  much  bleeding, 
immediate  attention  must  be  given  to  stopping  it. 
This  may  be  done  with  astringents,  cold,  or  pres- 
sure. Common  salt  is  a  very  good  astringent  for 
stopping  a  hemorrhage.  Cotton,  tow  or  oakum 
bound  over  the  wound  is  also  good. 

In  case  the  wound  is  deep,  it  may  be  necessary 
to  hold  the  parts  together  by  stitches.  Separate 
stitches  answer  better  than  continuous  ones.  In 
case  a  bandage  is  used  to  hold  the  parts  together, 
it  should  be  adjusted  very  evenly  and  extra  care 
exercised  not  to  draw  it  so  tightly  as  to  obstruct 
the  circulation.  The  bandage  should  be  applied 
so  as  to  encourage  union  from  the  bottom,  and  pre- 
vent accumulation  of  pus. 

During  the  following  days,  syringe  the  wound  out 
once  a  day  with  an  antiseptic  wash  made  by  adding 
one  tablespoonful  of  carbolic  acid  to  a  quart  of 
water.  The  wound  may  be  gently  cleaned  with  a 
soft  sponge  and  castile  or  carbolic  soap  and  hot 
water.  If  proud  flesh  forms,  it  must  he  held  in 
check  by  applications  of  some  caustic,  such  as  nitrate 
of  silver. 

In  treating  wounds  it  is  very  important  to  keep 


372  Care  of  the  Colt  in  Training 

the  animal  as  quiet  as  possible.  While  in  some  parts 
a  certain  degree  of  motion  cannot  be  avoided,  an 
endeavor  should  be  made  to  lessen  it  to  the  mini- 
mum. In  some  cases  the  colt  will  have  to  be  tied 
up  to  prevent  his  moving,  while  in  others  it  will 
be  necessary  to  place  a  cradle  about  his  neck  to 
prevent  him  from  gnawing  the  wound  with  his 
teeth   (p.  308). 

Sprains.  —  In  training  the  colt,  sprains  of  the 
muscles,  tendons  and  ligaments  are  of  rather  com- 
mon occurrence.  Severe  lameness  usually  comes 
on  suddenly  soon  after  the  injury.  The  joint  be- 
comes inflamed,  swollen  and  tender,  and  is  often 
moved  with  much  difficulty.  The  animal  should 
be  kept  quiet  on  a  level  floor.  Hot  or  cold  appli- 
cations should  be  applied  to  the  parts ;  hot  water 
if  there  is  severe  pain,  to  soften,  sooth  and  relax 
the  parts,  and  cold  applications  in  the  form  of  water 
or  bags  of  ice,  if  there  is  inflammation.  If  the  pain 
is  severe,  a  warm  application  of  one  quart  of  water 
with  four  ounces  tincture  of  opium  and  two  ounces 
of  acetate  of  lead  added,  made  several  times  daily, 
will  prove  beneficial.  If  the  parts  remain  large 
and  swollen  after  the  inflammation  is  reduced,  tinc- 
ture of  iodine  should  be  rubbed  in  twice  daily. 
If  this  fails  to  reduce  the  part,  try  a  light  bhster. 
A  part  that  has  been  severely  sprained  should 
have  a  long  period  of  rest,  as  complete  recovery 
from  a  sprain  is  a  very  slow  process. 


Puffs  and  Galls  373 

Wind-galls,  wind-puffs,  hlood-spavin,  bog-spavin 
and  thorough-pin.  —  These  appear  as  soft,  rather 
symmetrical  bunches,  wind-galls  occurring  on  the 
back  of  the  fetlock  joint;  wind-puffs  along  the  ten- 
dons, usually  on  either  side  of  the  leg,  but  more  par- 
ticularly on  the  outside  just  above  the  fetlock 
joint,  between  the  back  tendons  and  the  bones ; 
blood-spavin  and  bog-spavin  in  front  and  a  little 
inward  of  the  hock;  and  thorough-pin  is  located  at 
the  back  and  on  the  top  of  the  hock  in  that  part 
known  as  the  ''hollows."  They  often  make  their 
appearance  on  the  young  horses  as  the  result  of 
strains  due  to  heavy  pulling,  fast  driving,  jumping 
and  the  like.  The  treatment  is  to  cause  the  swelling 
to  absorb.  This  can  usually  be  done  by  hand- 
rubbing,  followed  by  pressure  and  cold,  applied  by 
means  of  wet  bandages.  An  elastic  bandage  is 
good.  Later  iodine  ointment  may  be  rubbed  in 
once  a  day.  A  small  amount  of  red  blister  rubbed 
over  the  growth  sometimes  proves  beneficial,  but 
a  severe  one  should  not  be  used. 

Capped  hocks.  —  The  colt  in  training  frequently 
injures  his  hocks  in  kicking  or  by  striking  them 
across  the  cross-bar,  which  results  in  a  growth  over 
the  parts,  known  as  capped  hocks.  Sometimes  the 
injury  is  brought  on  in  the  act  of  lying  down  and 
getting  up.  The  treatment  is  similar  to  that  sug- 
gested for  sprains  (p.  372). 

Harness  galls.  —  The  young  horse  in  training  is 


374  Care  of  the  Colt  in  Training 

very  subject  to  harness  galls,  particularly  along 
the  shoulders  under  the  collar,  at  the  back  under 
the  saddle  and  under  the  tail,  caused  by  the  crupper. 
The  parts  are  soft  and  tender  and  sweat  easily  from 
the  excitement  of  training.  In  this  condition  the 
colt  chafes  under  the  harness,  especially  if  it  is  hard 
and  poorly  fitting.  This  chafing  causes  abrasions 
of  the  skin,  which  prepare  the  way  for  abscesses  or 
chronic  blemishes  unless  attended  to  very  promptly. 
This  may  involve  only  the  skin  or  it  may  work  down 
into  the  muscle  and  even  the  bone.  When  the 
ligament  is  involved  there  may  be  a  dry  slough, 
commonly   called   '^sit-fasts." 

Abrasions  are  best  prevented  by  bringing  the 
young  animal  gradually  into  working  shape,  so  as  to 
harden  the  muscles  and  toughen  the  skin.  The 
harness  should  be  well  fitted,  cleaned  and  oiled 
to  remove  all  dirt  and  to  make  it  soft  and  pliable 
(p.  345).  The  parts  likely  to  be  abraded  should  be 
cleaned  and  brushed  free  of  dirt. 

In  treating  the  sore,  bathe  the  parts  freely  in  warm 
water,  then  apply  an  astringent,  such  as  cold  salt 
water ;  carbolic  acid  and  glycerin,  one  part  of  the  for- 
mer to  fifteen  of  the  latter;  one  pint  of  alcohol  in 
which  are  well  shaken  the  whites  of  two  eggs ;  a 
sugar  of  lead  lotion  made  by  adding  one  teaspoonful 
of  the  lead  to  a  quart  of  water;  or  a  nitrate  of  silver 
solution,  one  half  teaspoonful  to  the  quart  of  water. 
Continue  until  cured.  ' 


Care  of  Chafed  Legs  375 

If  a  horn-like  slough  or  sit-fast  has  developed,  it 
must  be  carefully  dissected  out  and  the  wound  treated 
with  antiseptics.  Allow  the  animal  rest  until  the 
wound  is  healed. 

Chafed  legs.  —  It  often  happens  that  the  fric- 
tion caused  by  improperly  fitting  hopples  and  boots 
chafes  the  legs,  and  constant  irritation  causes  the 
horse  much  pain.  It  is  the  common  practice  of 
horsemen  to  dust  the  injured  parts  with  lampblack 
or  to  apply  charcoal  and  boracic  acid.  The  trotting 
horsemen  assert  excellent  results  from  the  use  of 
these   materials. 


INDEX 


Accidents,  blood-spavin,  373  ;  bog- 
spavin,  373  ;  broken  knee,  367  ; 
bruised  fetlock,  368 ;  bruised 
knee,  367 ;  calking,  369  ;  capped 
hocks,  373 ;  in  training,  366 ; 
sprains,  372 ;  stabs,  370 ;  thor- 
oughpin,  373  ;  to  foot,  369  ;  wind- 
galls,  373  ;  wind-puffs,  373  ; 
wounds,  370 ; 

Acquainting,  with  buggy,  77  ;  with 
objects  of  fear,  85  ;  with  umbrel- 
las, etc.,  87. 

Action,  132  ;  bitting  for,  139  ;  bit- 
ting to  improve,  134 ;  brushing, 
145  ;  cause  of  heavy  going,  133  ; 
clicking,  143 ;  conformation 
favoring,  133 ;  conditioning  to 
improve,  142 ;  condition  favor- 
able, 134  ;  curb-bit,  136  ;  cutting, 
145 ;  defective,  corrected  by 
shoeing,  141 ;  exercise  improves, 
147  ;  faulty,  143  ;  faulty  bitting, 
146 ;  faulty  causes,  144,  145 ; 
faulty  overcoming,  144,  146 ; 
feeding  to  improve,  143 ;  forg- 
ing, 143  ;  high,  134  ;  importance 
of  a  good  mouth,  136  ;  improved 
by  curb-bit,  137  ;  interfering,  145; 
length  of  hoof,  141  ;  over-reach- 
ing, 143 ;  shoeing  to  improve, 
139,  146;  striking,  145;  weight 
on  shoe,  141. 

Age,  by  teeth,  364  ;  to  train  coacher, 
109  ;  to  train  foal,  27  ;  to  train 
horses  for  work,  46  ;  to  train  to 
jump,  174  ;  to  train  roadster,  109; 
to  train  saddle  horse,  150;  to 
train  trotter,   109. 

American  Saddle  Horse  Breeders' 
Association,  163. 


Appliances,     188 ;      anti-switching, 
267  ;    bridle  twitch,  200  ;    caves- 
son    halter,     196 ;      combination 
bridle,  201  ;   excelsior  bridle,  193 
fence-jumping,    277 ;     gag,    200 
Galvayne's  training  harness,  219 
guy  rope,  201  ;  Hackamore  bridle 
196;    halter-twitch,   198;     head- 
stall twitch,   199;    hobbles,  206 
kicking    harness,    204 ;     kicking- 
reins,    202 ;     kicking  strap,  202 
lead  rope,  201  ;     lip-twitch,  197 
muzzle,    308 ;     neck-cradle,   308 
pulley  bridle,  193  ;    pulley  bridle 
modified,  195  ;  Rarey's  leg-strap 
207  ;    Rarey's  safety  harness,  208 
Rarey's   throwing  harness,    212 
rearing  twitch,  200  ;    rope  halter 
189;  rope  throwing,  216;  shackles 
221  ;  straight-jacket,  221 ;  twitch 
191  ;  war  bridle,  191  ;  war  bridle 
modified,     192 ;    Yankee     bridle 

189  ;      Yankee  bridle,    modified 

190  ;     wooden-gag,  200. 
Army  horse  training,    177. 
Artillery  horse  training,  177. 
Association  of  ideas,   3. 
Automobile,   familiar  with,   239. 

Back-band,  337. 

Backing,  by  pressure,  39  ;  difficult, 
causes,  263  ;  difficult,  overcome, 
263  ;  foal,  38  ;  in  stall,  297  ;  in 
stall  overcome,  298  ;  vehicle,  80  ; 
when  to  teach  foal,  38  ;  with  lines 
and  pressure,  81. 

Back-strap,  336. 

"Back,"  teaching  foal,  42;'  teach- 
ing horse,  67  ;  what  it  stands  for, 
100. 


377 


378 


Index 


Balancing,   139,  303. 

Balker,  how  produced,  95. 

Balking,  249 ;    causes,  249 ;    over 
come,  250,  272. 

Bandaging  legs,  126. 

Bar-bit,  320  ;    half  check,  320. 

Bedding,  eating,  312. 

Beery  bit,  323. 

Bit,  56,  318  ;  bar,  plain,  320  ;  Beery 
323 ;    chain,  320 ;    chain  center 
320;     classes,   319;     coach,   320 
curb,  136  ;    Detroit,  320  ;    fitting 
60  ;    fitting  curb,  137  ;    grasping 
279 ;     humane,    320 ;     Imperial 
320;    importance  of  fitting,  318 
J.   I.   C,  320;     jointed  cushion 
320  ;  kinds,  320  ;  Liverpool  coach 
320 ;     mouthing,    320 ;      nodine 
320 ;    Norton,    320 ;     perfection 
320  ;  plain  jointed,  320  ;    Racine 
320;    riding,  151,  320,  Rockwell 
320;      Sanborn,     320;      straight 
cushion,      320 ;       success,      320 
teaching  wild  horse  uses  of,  233 
training,  58  ;   tongue  lolling,  320 
triumph,  320 ;    U.  S.  Army,  320 
victor,  320 ;    wind-sucking,  320 
Wilson  320;    w-wire,  320. 

Biting,  292 ;  causes,  292 ;  over- 
come, 292. 

Bitting,  to  curb-bit,  139  ;  first  time, 
59  ;  the  horse,  57  ;  to  improve 
action,  134 ;  refractory  horse, 
233  ;  stubborn  horse,  233  ;  uses 
of    bit,    61  ;     wild     horse,    233. 

Bitting-harness,  60,  139;  "elastic" 
reins,  62  ;  "fixed"  reins,  62;  "  run- 
ning" reins,  62. 

Blanket,  saddle,  153. 

Blanketed,  121. 

Blanket-fly,  347. 

Blanketing,  advantages,  362 ;  and 
clipping,   361 ;    the  trotter,    126. 

Blankets,  tearing,  307 ;  tearing, 
overcome,  308. 

Blinds,  325 ;  on  training  bridle, 
9. 


Blood-spavin,  373. 

Body-brush,  359. 

Bog-spavin,  373. 

Boils,  shoe,  311. 

Boots,  114. 

Boring,  281 ;  causes,  282  ;  over- 
come,  282. 

Boston  hold-back,  338. 

Brass  fixtures,  326, 

Breaking,  265. 

Breaking  vs.  training,  1. 

Breast  harness,  335. 

Breeching,  338;  "Pennsylvania," 
338. 

Breed,   on  training,  47. 

Bridle,  318  ;  adjusting,  59  ;  blinds, 
325  ;  check-rein,  327  ;  combina- 
tion, 201  ;  difficult,  291  ;  ex- 
celsior, 193  ;  fixtures,  326  ;  Hack- 
amore,  196  ;  pulley,  193  ;  pulley, 
modified,  195 ;  riding,  151 ; 
stripping,  283  ;  tassels,  326  ;  too 
tight,  59 ;  too  loose,  59 ;  war, 
191 ;  war,  modified,  192  ;  Yankee, 
189;    Yankee,   modified,    190. 

Bridle-twitch,  200. 

Bridling  first  time,   59. 

Broken  knee,  367. 

Bruised  fetlock,  368.  Bruised  knee, 
367. 

Brushing,  145. 

Brush  system,  119,  124. 

Bucking,  276  ;  causes,  276 ;  over- 
come, 276. 

Buck-jumping,  276. 

Buggy,   acquainting  with,   77. 

Calking,  369. 

Canter,  160 ;  training,  171 ;  three- 
footed,  161. 

Cantle,  151. 

Capped  hocks,  373. 

Care  in  training,  349. 

Caressing  with  whip,  83. 

Cars,  familiar  with,  240. 

Cart,  familiarizing  with,  77 ;  for 
training,  74  ;    how  to  make,  74. 


Index 


379 


Catching  a  wild  horse,   223 ;  foal, 

28,  29. 
Catch,  troublesome,  285. 
Cavalry  horse  training,  177,  178. 
Cavesson  halter,  196. 
Centerpieces,  326. 
Chafed  legs,  375. 
Chain  bit,  320. 
Chain  center  bit,  320. 
Check-rein,  327  ;  disadvantages,  328. 
Children  handling  foal,  31. 
Children's  pony,  91. 
Circus  tricks,  183. 
Classes  of  saddle  horses,   167. 
Clay  mud  pack,  127. 
Clicking,  143. 

Clipping  and  blanketing,  361. 
Coach  bit,  320. 
Coach,  horse  training,  108. 
Coacher,    action,    132 ;     bitting   to 

improve   action,    134 ;     brushing, 

145  ;  clicking,  143  ;  conditioning 
to  improve  action,  142  ;  curb-bit, 
136 ;  cutting,  145 ;  defective 
action  corrected,  142 ;  driving, 
129 ;  exercise  improves  action, 
148  ;  faulty  action,  143  ;  forging, 
143  ;  high  action,  134  ;  interfer- 
ing, 145 ;  over-reaching,  143 ; 
shoeing  to  improve  action,   139, 

146  ;  striking,  145  ;  training  yard, 
111. 

Collar,  73,  331;  adjusting,  334; 
fitting,  334  ;  humane,  332  ;  Irish, 
333;  metal,  331;  pneumatic, 
331  ;    Sweeny,  333. 

Combination  bridle,  201. 

"Come  here,"  teaching  horse,    55. 

Commands,  teaching,  65. 

Confidence  of  foal,  31. 

Conformation  for  action,  133. 

Confusing  a  colt,  32. 

Cradle,  neck,  308. 

Cribbing,  299  ;  causes,  299  ;  over- 
come,   299 ;     see    Wind-sucking. 

Crowding,    282 ;     overcome,    283. 

"Cruiser,"  241. 


Crupper,  336. 

Cruppering,    70;     difficult,    292. 

Curb-bit,  136,  320 ;  advantages, 
137  ;  disadvantages,  137  ;  famil- 
iarizing the  horse,  138. 

Curry-comb,  359. 

Cutting,  145. 

Daily  program  for  a  trotter,  125. 

Detroit  bit,  320. 

Development,  and  exercise,  350 ; 
and  feeding,  352  ;  and  grooming, 
357. 

Difficult,  to  back,  263  ;  to  crupper, 
292  ;  to  bridle,  291  ;  to  groom, 
288;  to  drench,  315;  to  harness, 
290 ;  to  mount,  274  ;  to  lead  in 
doorway,  298 ;    to  shoe,  300. 

Domestication  of  horse,  30. 

Double,  hitching,  84. 

Draft  horse,  how  to  drive,  94 ; 
"steady,"  96;  signals,  96 ;  train- 
ing for,  93. 

Drenching,  315, 

Driving,  68,  129 ;  careless  effect, 
131;  efficient  effect,  132;  foal 
with  lines,  40 ;  guide  left,  65 ; 
guide  right,  65 ;  holding  lines, 
131  ;  horse  with  lines,  63  ;  how 
acquired,  130  ;  position  of  lines, 
132 ;  surcingle,  64 ;  when  to 
teach  foal,  40. 

Dumb  jockey,  139. 

Earbobs,  326. 

Early  training,  advantages,  110, 
117;  effect  on  coacher,  110; 
effect  on  disposition,  117;  effect 
on  roadster,  110  ;  effect  on  trotter, 
110;  in  harness,  118;  objections, 
43  ;   value,   42. 

Educating,  foal  to  back,  38  ;  a  loose 
horse  to  follow,  55 ;  by  the 
special  senses,  7  ;  to  come  under 
shafts,  82. 

"Elastic"  reins,  62. 

Endurance,  increasing,  124. 


380 


Index 


Examine  the  horse,  49. 

Excelsior  bridle,  193. 

Exercise,    and    development,    350 ; 

improves  action,  147 ;    irregular, 

147  ;    value  of,  350. 
Eyes,  49. 

Familiarize  with  vehicle,  77. 

"Family  broke,"  90. 

"Family  horse,"  90. 

Fast  walking,  advantages,  92  ;  train 
to,  91. 

Fatigue,  116, 122  ;  impairs  memory, 
6. 

Faulty  action,  143. 

Fear,  85  ;    and  sight,  9. 

Feed  for  one  day,  354. 

Feeding,  colt,  353 ;  and  develop- 
ment, 352  ;  night  ration,  355  ; 
order  of,  355  ;  requires  training, 
7  ;  the  trotter,  125 ;  to  improve 
action,  143. 

Feeling  and  fright,  8. 

Feeling  vs.  smelling,  8. 

Feet,  49,  101  ;  advantages  of  han- 
dling, 106  ;  care,  127,  363  ;  gen- 
tling, 101,  301,  304. 

Fence  jumping,  277  ;  overcome,  277. 

Fetlock  bruised,  368. 

First  lessons  short,  33. 

Fitting,  collar,  334  ;  halter  on  foal, 
36. 

Five-gaited  horse,  167. 

"Fixed"  reins,  62. 

Fly-blankets,  347. 

Fly-killer,  347. 

Fly-net,  347. 

Foal,  training,  26. 

Following  when  loose,  54. 

Foot,  accidents,  369  ;  gentling,  301, 
304  ;  gentling  a  front  foot,  102  ; 
a  hind  foot,  104  ;  handling,  101  ; 
holding  a  hind  foot,  105  ;  how  to 
pick  up,  103;  injuring,  313; 
trimming,  140 ;  shoeing  to  im- 
prove action,   140. 

Forging,  143. 


Fox  trot,  165  ;    training,  173. 
Frightened  horse,  never  whip,  89. 
Frog,  puncture,  369. 

Gag,  wooden,  200. 

Gait,  diagonal,  100. 

Gaited  horse,  167. 

Gaits,  158 ;   training  to,  168. 

Gallop,  160;   hand,  161. 

Galls,  harness,  373. 

Galvayne's  appliance  in  use,  221 ; 
method,  12 ;  training  harness, 
219;    tail  rope,  219. 

"Gee,"  teaching  a  horse,  97; 
what  it  stands  for,  100. 

Gentling,  a  front  foot,  301 ;  a  hind 
foot,  304 ;  a  wild  horse,  226, 
229. 

"Get  up,"  teaching  foal,  42  ;  teach- 
ing horse,  67  ;  what  it  stands  for, 
100. 

Girth,  saddle,  153. 

Gnashing  teeth,  280. 

Gorging  grain,  315. 

Grain,  gorging,  315. 

Grasping  bit,  279 ;  causes,  279 ; 
overcome,  279. 

Groom,  357;  difficult  to,  288;  diffi- 
cult to,  overcome,  288. 

Grooming,  advantage,  360 ;  tools, 
359  ;    and  development,  357. 

Guiding  by  legs,  158. 

Gun-fire,  training,  177. 

Guy  rope,  201. 

Habits,  bad,  4 ;    easily  formed,  4 ; 

good,  4  ;   transmitted,  4. 
Hackamore  bridle,  196. 
Hackney  coach  horse,  4. 
Halter,    cavesson,    196 ;    fitting   on 

foal,   36;    leather  for  the   horse, 

51  ;  for  colt,  35  ;  web,  35. 
Haltering  a  loose  horse,  227. 
Halter-pulling,   269  ;     causes,   267  ; 

confirmed,  271 ;    overcome,  270. 
Halter,  rope,  189. 
Halter-twitch,  198. 


Index 


381 


Hame-tug,  336. 

Hand-gallop,  161. 

"Hands,"  how  acquired,  130;  in 
driving,  130. 

Handling,  colt,  26;  foal,  28;  feet,  101 ; 
horse,  44,  50  ;  vicious  horse,  242  ; 
wild  horse,  226. 

Harness,  188,  317  ;  back-strap,  336  ; 
bit,  318  ;  bitting,  60  ;  bits,  322  ; 
blinds,  325  ;  breast,  335  ;  breech- 
ing, 338  ;  bridle,  318  ;  caring  for, 
344  ;  check-rein,  327  ;  choosing, 
343  ;  cleaning,  345  ;  collars,  331 ; 
combination  bridle,  201  ;  crupper, 
336  ;  difficult  to,  290  ;  early  train- 
ing in,  118  ;  excelsior  bridle,  193  ; 
galls,  373  ;  Galvayne's  training, 
219 ;  Hackamore  bridle,  196  ; 
hame-tug,  336  ;  head-stall,  325  ; 
hobbles,  206  ;  hold-backs,  338  ; 
kicking-reins,  202;  kicking-strap, 
202;  leather,  343;  lines,  329; 
lying  down  in,  312  ;  oiling,  345  ; 
pulley  bridle,  193  ;  Rarey's  safety, 
208;  Rarey's  throwing,  212; 
repairs,  347 ;  room,  346 ;  rope 
halter,  189;  rubbing,  311;  rub- 
bing overcome,  311  ;  saddle,  337  ; 
shackles,  221  ;  self-punishing, 
205;  straight-jacket,  221;  sweat 
pads,  335 ;  trimmings  useless, 
343  ;  twitch,  197  ;  Yankee  bridle, 
189  ;    war  bridle,  191  ;    web,  343. 

Harnessing,  68,  317;  collar,  73; 
cruppering,  70  ;  difficult,  290  ; 
difficult  to  overcome,  290 ;  diffi- 
cult to  bridle,  291  ;  difficult  to 
crupper,  292  ;  examine  shoulders, 
73  ;  fitting  collar,  334  ;  kind  of 
harness,  72 ;  parts  likely  to 
abrade,  74  ;  placing  harness  over 
back,  72  ;  poling,  69  ;  pressure, 
69  ;  smelling  harness,  73  ;  a  wild 
horse,  234  ;    work  horse,  72. 

"Haw,"  teaching  a  horse,  97  ;  what 
it  stands  for,  100. 

Head,  tossing  and  shaking,  280. 


Head-stall,  325. 

Headstall-twitch,  199. 

Hearing,  49;  confusion,  9;   requires 

training,  9. 
Heavy  draft,  training  for,  93. 
Herds  of  wild  horses,  6. 
High-school  horse,  167  ;training,181. 
Hitching,     68,     78 ;      double,     84 ; 

kicking-straps,    78  ;     single,    74  ; 

tandem,   98. 
Hitching-rack,  45. 
Hobbles,  206. 
Hocks,  capped,  373. 
Hold-backs,  338. 
Horse  training,  44. 
Humane,  bit,  320 ;    collar,  332. 
Humiliating  the  horse,  248. 
Hunter,  167. 

Imperial  bit,  320. 
Inclosure  for  training,  48. 
Individuality  on  training,  47. 
Intelligence,    of   the   horse,    3 ;     of 

mule,  7. 
Interfering,  145. 
Irish  collar,  333. 

Jibbing,  252  ;  causes,  252  ;  over- 
come, 253. 

J.  I.  C.  bit,  320. 

Jockey  yoke,  342. 

Jump,  166;  age  to  train,  174; 
training  while  young,    174. 

Jointed  cushion  bit,  320. 

Jumping  fences,  277. 

Kicking,    254,     295 ;    causes,    254 ; 
in   stable,   295 ;     overcome,   255. 
Kicking-harness   204. 
Kicking-reins,  202. 
Kicking-strap,  202. 
Kicking-straps,  78. 
Kimball  Jackson,  328, 
Knee,  bruised,   367 ;  broken,  367. 

Lassoing  a  wild  horse,  223. 
Leader,  97. 


382 


Index 


Leaders,  how  to  train,  97  ;  kinds, 
97. 

Leading,  foal  with  loin-hitch,  38 ; 
the  foal,  34  ;  the  horse,  51  ;  when 
to  teach  foal,  34 ;  wild  horses, 
231 ;   with  halter,  45. 

Leather  collar,  333. 

Legs,  bandaging,  126  ;  chafed,  375  ; 
clipping  hair  from,  360  ;  guiding 
with,  158 ;  leading,  162,  171  ; 
pressure  of,  157. 

Leg-strap,  Rarey's,  207. 

Lessons,  in  regular  order,  34  ;  use- 
ful, 33  ;  short,  33. 

Light  horse  training,  108. 

Lines,  329  ;  arranging  on  foal,  40  ; 
holding,  131  ;  multiple  hitch,  330  ; 
under  tail,  268. 

Lip  striking,  279. 

Lip-twitch,  197. 

Liverpool  coach  bit,  320. 

Loin-hitch,  how  made,  37 ;  in 
teaching  foal  to  lead,  37 ;  on 
horse,  52. 

Loose  horse,  following,  54 ;  halter- 
ing, 227. 

Loose  ring  strap,  45. 

Lope,  160. 

Lugging,  281 ;  causes,  281 ;  over- 
come, 281. 

Lying  down,  cow-fashion,  311  ;  in 
harness,  312. 

Mane-comb,  359. 

Martingale,  338. 

Master,  of  the  horse,  2  ;  personal 
habits,  2  ;    qualities  of,  2. 

Memorizing,  and  flocking  together, 
6  ;  and  number  of  ideas,  6  ;  both 
sides  of  the  horse,  6  ;  fatigue,  6  ; 
imitation,  7  ;  out  of  condition,  7  ; 
rapidity  depends  on,  5 ;  while 
young,  5. 

Memory,  good,  4  ;  how  trained,  4  ; 
in  foal,  27  ;  repetition,  5  ;  vivid- 
ness of  impression,  4. 

Mental  capabilities  of  the  horse,  3. 


Metal,  collar,  331. 

Methods,  effective,  13  ;   Old  World, 

15  ;    rapid  vs.  slow,  12  ;    safe,  15  ; 

selecting,   12;    of  training,   11. 
Mounting,  106,  155;  difficult,    274; 

steadying,  107. 
Mouth,  before  bitting,  56;   "hard," 

57  ;   how  to  examine,  57  ;  in  good 

condition,  49 ;    importance    of    a 

good    one,    57;     "spoiled,"    57; 

"tender,"  57;    unresponsive,  63. 
Mouthing,  bit,  320. 
Mouths,   difference  in,    136. 
Movements  of  foal,  28. 
Mules,  intelligence,  7. 
Multiple  hitches,  98. 
Muzzle,  308. 

Natural  law,  28. 

Neck-cradle,  308. 

Nervous  types  of  foals,  30. 

Nets,  fly,  347. 

"  Night  kicking,"  295  ;  causes,  295; 
overcome,  295. 

"Nodder,"  173. 

Nodine  bit,  320. 

Noise,  85 ;     acquainting    with,    86. 

"Noise  kicking,"  see  "Night  kick- 
ing." 

Noose-twitch,  197. 

Norton  bit,  320. 

Obedience,  16 ;     and      reward,   17. 

Objects,  acquainting  with,  87 ; 
of  early  training,  27  ;  of  fear,  85  ; 
strange,  237;    of  training,   11. 

Old  World  methods,  15. 

Orders,  few,  16  ;  make  them  under- 
stood, 15  ;  patience,  16  ;  simple, 
16. 

Over-reaching,  143. 

Pace,  slow,  165. 

Painful  lessons  long  remembered,  4. 
Pawing,  309  ;  overcome,  309. 
"Pennsylvania"  breeching,  338. 
Perfection  bit,  320. 


Index 


383 


Permanent  methods,  13. 

Personal  influence  in  training,  21. 

Petting  the  horse,  17. 

Physicked,  121. 

Picketing,  179. 

Plain  jointed  bit,  320. 

Plunging,  264 ;  causes,  264. 

Pneumatic  collar,  331. 

Poling,  69 ;  advantages,  71  ;  legs, 
72  ;    wild  horse,  229. 

Polo  game,  179. 

Pommel,  151. 

Pony  for  children,  91. 

Position,  while  harnessing,  45 ; 
while  leading  a  horse,  44. 

Prancing,  265. 

Pressure,  69;    in  backing,  81. 

Principles,  exaggerate  horses'  ideas, 
22  ;  fatigue,  23  ;  obedience,  24  ; 
of  training,  22  ;  study  horse,  24  ; 
train  while  young,  22 ;  use  ap- 
pliance to  give  advantage,  24 ; 
various  methods,  23. 

Program  training  a  trotter,   125. 

Pulley  bridle,  193  ;  modified,  195  ; 
three  ring,   194. 

Pulling  away,  282. 

Punishing  harnesses,  204. 

Punishment,  and  the  voice,  18  ;  and 
the  whip,  19  ;    in  training,  17. 

Quarters,  examine,  73. 
Quarters-hitch,   how  to  make,   53 ; 
on  horse,  53. 

Race,  conditioning,  128 ;  driving, 
129 ;  examining  before,  127 ; 
preparing  for,  129  ;  training  for, 
127 ;    working  out  for,   129. 

Racine  bit,  320. 

Racing  bit,  320. 

Rack,  163;  training,  173. 

Rapid  methods,  12  ;  effective,  13  ; 
safe,  15. 

Rarey's,  double  safety,  210  ;  double 
safety  and  guy  rope,  209 ;  leg- 
strap,   207  ;    method,   12  ;  safety 


harness,  208  ;  safety  in  use,  210  ; 
single  safety,  210  ;  throwing  har- 
ness, 212 ;  throwing  harness  in 
use,  215. 

Ration,  daily,  353. 

Rearing,  264,  276;  causes,  264, 
276  ;    overcome,  264,  276. 

Rearing-twitch,  200. 

Refractory  horse,  hitched,  235 ; 
subduing,  236. 

Refusing  to  stand,   284. 

Repair-kit,  347. 

Repetition,     14 ;    and  memory,    5. 

Reward,  and  taste,  10 ;  and  the 
whip,  19  ;  food,  17  ;  in  training, 
17 ;    patting,  17 ;    voice,  17. 

Riding  bit,  151,  320;  bridle,  151; 
saddle,  151. 

Right,  make  easy,  11. 

Roadster,  action,  132 ;  bitting  to 
improve  action,  134 ;  brushing,  • 
145 ;  clicking,  143,  conditioning 
to  improve  action,  142  ;  cutting, 
145 ;  defective  action  corrected, 
142  ;  dri\'ing,  129  ;  exercise  im- 
proves action,  148;  faulty  action, 
143 ;  forging,  143 ;  interfering, 
145;  over-reaching,  143;  shoe- 
ing to  improve  action,  139,  146  ; 
striking,  145 ;  .  training,  108 ; 
training    while    young,    110. 

Rockwell  bit,  320. 

Rolling,  306 ;  causes,  306 ;  over- 
come, 306. 

Rope-halter,  189. 

Rope-tail,  220. 

Rope-throwing,  216. 

Rubbing  harness,  311. 

Run,  160. 

Rvmning  away,  260 ;  causes,  260 ; 
overcome,   261. 

Running  back,  262 ;  causes,  262 ; 
overcome,  262. 

Running  foal  about,  31. 

"Running"  reins,  62. 

Running  walk,  164;  training, 
172. 


384 


Index 


Saddle,  151,  337;  cantle,  151; 
fitting,  151  ;  men's,  151  ;  pommel, 
151  ;  women's,  151  ;  stirrup,'  152. 

Saddle-blanket,  153. 

Saddle-girth,  153. 

Saddle  horse,  army  training,    177 
Breeders' Association,  1G3;  canter 
160 ;    circus  tricks,  183  ;    classes 
167;    "dog  trot,"  173;    foxtrot 
165  ;  fox  trot  training,  173  ;  gaits 
158;    gallop,  160;    guiding,  158 
hand    gallop,   161  ;     high-school 
training,     181;      "jiggle,"     170 
jump,  166 ;   jump,  training,  174 
lope,    160 ;    mounting,    155,    156 
157  ;    picketing,  179  ;    polo  train- 
ing, 179  ;    pressure  of  legs,   157 
rack,   163 ;     rack,  training,    173 
riding    bridle,     151  ;     run,     160 
running  walk,  164  ;  running  walk 
training,    172 ;    saddle    for,    151 
"shog,"    173;     single-foot,    163 
slow  pace,  165 ;    slow  pace  train 
ing,     173 ;      Spanish    trot,     183 
Spanish  walk,  181  ;   special  work 
179;     three-footed    canter,    161 
training,  150,  171  ;  training  equip- 
ment,   151  ;     training    to    stand 
176 ;     trot,    160 ;    trot,    training 
170  ;    walk,   159  ;  walk,  training 
168. 

Safety  harness,  208  ;  in  horse  train- 
ing,  14. 

Sanborn  bit,  320. 

Score,  128. 

Scouting  horse  training,  177. 

Scraped,  121. 

Scraping  trotter,  126. 

Secure  foal's  confidence,  31. 

Self-punishing  harness,  204. 

Senses,  feeling,  7  ;  hearing,  9  ;  sight, 
9  ;  smell,  10 ;  taste,  10. 

Senses  and  training,  7. 

Shackles,  221. 

Shackling  a  wild  horse,  230. 

Shafts,  teaching  horse  to  come 
under,  82, 


Shoe-boils,  311. 

Shoe,  fitting,  140. 

Shoeing,  101,  122;  difhcult,  300; 
fitting  the  shoe,  140  ;  to  improve 
action,   139 ;    weight,   140. 

Shoulders  examine,  73. 

Shying,  257 ;  causes,  257 ;  over- 
come, 258. 

"Side  wheelers,"  164. 

Sight,  limited,  9  ;  requires  training, 
9. 

Signals,  few,  16  ;  make  them  under- 
stood, 15  ;  patience,  16  ;  simple, 
16. 

"Single  foot,"  163. 

Single,  hitching,  24. 

Sit-fasts,  374. 

Sleeping  standing,  313. 

Slow  methods,  12. 

Slow  pace,  165  ;   pace  training,  173. 

Smelling  vs.  feeling,  8. 

Smell  requires  training,  10. 

Snaring  a^  loose  horse,  224. 

Sores,  care  of,  74. 

Sore  mouth,  57. 

Spanish  trot,  183. 

Spanish  walk,  181  ;  described,  182. 

Special  senses  and  training,  7. 

Speed-making  lessons,  124. 

Sprains,  372. 

Spurs,  154 ;  army,  154 ;  English, 
154  ;  familiarizing,  154  ;  patent, 
154 ;  plain,  154 ;  racing,  154 ; 
rowel,  155  ;  unsteady  under,  273  ; 
uses,  154. 

Stable,  switching  tail,  314;  trot- 
ting in,  314  ;  vices,  286  ;  causes, 
286;  overcome,  286;  whims,  286. 

Stabs,  370  ;   treatment,  371. 

Stall,  hanging  back  in,  297 ;  re- 
fusing admission,  286. 

Stand,  refusing,  284;   training,  176. 

"Steady,"  four  uses,  80;  teaching 
horse,  80  ;  what  it  stands  for,  100. 

Stirrups,  152  ;  military,  153  ;  Ox- 
bow, 153  ;  safety,  153  ;  slipper, 
153 ;    straps,   153 ;    Texas,   153, 


Index 


385 


Straight  cushion  bit,  320. 

Straight-jacket    221 ;    in  use,  222. 

Strange  objects,  8. 

Strength  of  foal,  27. 

Striking,  with  foot,  145,  294  ;  causes, 
295 ;  striking-Hps,  279 ;  causes, 
279  ;  overcome,  279,  293. 

Stripping  bridle,  283  ;.  causes,  283  ; 
overcome,  284. 

Stubborn  horse,  driving,  233 ; 
hitched,  235;  leading,  232; 
teaching  uses  of  bit,  233  ;  train- 
ing, 223. 

Study  individual  peculiarities,  121. 

Stupefying,  231. 

Success  bit,  320. 

Sugar  for  foal,  32  ;  for  gaining  con- 
fidence, 32. 

Sugar-of-lead-laudanum  lotion,  126. 

Surcingle,  for  driving,  64 ;  for  foal, 
40. 

Sweated,  121. 

Sweat  pads,  335. 

Sweeny  collar,  333. 

Switching  tail,  265;   in  stable,  314. 

Tail,  rubbing,  310 ;  rubbing  over- 
come, 310;  sore,  268 ;  switching, 
265 ;  causes,  265 ;  overcome, 
266. 

Tail-comb,  359. 

Tail-hitch,  how  to  make,  52 ;  on 
horse,  52, 

Tail  over  line,  268 ;  causes,  268 ; 
overcome,  269. 

Tail-rope,  219;  attached  to  tail, 
220. 

Tassels,  326. 

Taste,  and  reward,  10 ;  requires 
training,  10. 

Teeth,  49  ;  care  of,  364  ;  gnashing, 
280;    in  telling  age,  364. 

Temper,  187  ;  nervous,  187 ;  stub- 
born, 187;  teachable,  187; 
treacherous,  187. 

Temperament,  187. 

"Third  hand,"  51. 

2c 


Thorough-pin,  373. 

Throwing  harness,  212. 

Throwing  ropes,  216. 

Tie-strap  chewing,  312. 

Time  required  for  early  training,  43. 

Timidity,  of  foals,  30  ;  overcome  by 
handling,  30. 

Toe-weight,  122. 

Tongue,  49. 

Tongue-lolling,  278;  bit,  320; 
causes,    278 ;     overcome,    278. 

Tossing  and  shaking  head,  280. 

Track,  exercise  on,  113  ;  small  con- 
struction, 111  ;  small  training, 
111. 

Trainer,     personal     influence,     21 
requirements,  20. 

Training-cart,  74  ;    advantages,  76 
driving,  79  ;    backing,  82  ;  famil- 
iarizing with,  77  ;  hitching  to,  78 
how  to  make,  74 ;  kicking-straps, 
78. 

Training  defined,  1. 

Training  vs.  breaking,  1. 

Train  within  an  inclosure,  48. 

Tricks,  183. 

Triumph  bit,  320. 

Trot,  160;  fox,  165;  Spanish,  183; 
teaching  to  lead,  171  ;  training, 
170  ;  action,  132  ;  advantage  of 
early  training,  117;  advantages 
of  early  work  in  harness,  123 ; 
balancing,  139  ;  blanketed,  121  ; 
bandaging  legs,  126  ;  blanketing, 
126;  boots  for,  114;  brush  sys- 
tem, 119;  brushing,  145;  care, 
112,  125;  clicking,  143;  cutting, 
145;  do  not  tire,  115;  driving, 
129;  exercise,  113;  exercise  im- 
proves action,  148 ;  exercise  on 
small  track,  113;  fatigue,  116; 
feeding,  112;  forging,  143;  in- 
creasing endurance,  128 ;  inter- 
fering, 145;  in  harness,  118;  in 
single  harness,  119;  in  stable, 
314;  length  of  exercise,  116; 
night    care,    127 ;     objection    to 


386 


Index 


cart,  118;  order  of  feeding,  125; 
over-reaching,  143 ;  physicked, 
121;  plan  for  training,  112;  rest 
two  days  a  month,  116  ;    scraped, 

121  ;      scraping,     126 ;      shoeing, 

122  ;  shoeing  to  improve  action, 
139,  146 ;  small  training  track, 
111;  speed-making  lessons,  124; 
striking,  145;  study  colt,  116; 
study  individual,  121  ;  sugar-of- 
lead-laudanum  lotion,  126 ; 
sweated,  121 ;  training,  108 ; 
training  to  u-e  track,  113  ;  train- 
ing vehicle,  118;  training  while 
young,  110;  toe-weight,  122; 
two-  and  three-year-old,  123 ; 
watering,  112,  125;  young  ex- 
ercised twice  daily,  120. 

Troublesome  to  catch,  285. 

Trusting  horses,  44. 

Tug,  hame,  336. 

Twitch,  191,  192,  195,  197;  and 
bridle,  191,  192,  195  ;  bridle,  200  ; 
halter,  198 ;  headstall,  199 ;  lip, 
197;    noose,   197;  rearing,   200. 

Tying  to  post,  45. 

Unsteady  under  whip  and  spur,  273. 
U.  S.  Army  bit,  320. 
Useful  lessons  only,  33. 
Uses  of  the  bit,  56. 

Value,  depends  on  training,  2 ; 
of  early  training,  42. 

Vehicle,  backing,  80  ;  familiarizing 
with,  77. 

Vices,  246,  286;    backing  in  stall, 
297  ;    balking,  249  ;     biting,  292 
breaking,     265;     bucking,      276 
causes,      247 ;       cribbing,      269 
difficult   to   back,   263 ;     difficult 
to  bridle,  291  ;    difficult  to  crup- 
per, 292  ;   difficult  to  groom,  288  ; 
difficult  to  harness,  290 ;  difficult 
to  shoe,  300  ;   halter-pulling,  269  ; 
jibbing,  252  ;  kicking,  254  ;  kick- 
ing in  stable,  295  ;    outdoor,  246  ; 


outdoor,  the  cause,  249 ;  outdoor 
overcome,  249  ;  plunging,  264  ; 
prancing,  265  ;  pulling-halter,  269; 
rearing,  264,  276 ;  refusing  ad- 
mission to  stall,  286 ;  running 
away,  260  ;  running  back,  262  ; 
shoeing,  300  ;  shying,  257  ;  stable, 
286  ;  striking,  295  ;  study  causes, 
247;  switching  tail,  265;  tail 
over  line,  268  ;  wind-sucking,  300. 

Vicious  horses,  186,  241 ;  causes, 
186;  "Cruiser,"  241;  handling, 
242;  Galvayne  method,  242; 
objects  of  fear,  243  ;  overcome, 
244  ;  Rarey  method,  242  ;  sub- 
duing, 241  ;  temper,  187  ;  train- 
ing, 186. 

Victor  bit,  320. 

Visionj  49  ;   limited,  9. 

Vividness  of  impression,  4. 

Voice,  and  punishment,  18 ;  and 
reward,  17. 

Wagon,  skeleton,  119;  advantages, 
119. 

Walk,  159  ;  fast  training,  91  ;  run- 
ning, 164  ;  Spanish,  181 ;  training, 
168. 

Walk,  trot  and  canter  horse,  167. 

Walking  horse,  167. 

War  bridle,  191 ;    modified,  192. 

Watering,  356  ;   the  trotter,  125. 

Weaving,  314. 

Weight  in  shoeing,  140. 

Whims,  246,  278,  286 ;  blanket 
tearing,  307  ;  boring,  281 ;  chew- 
ing tie-strap,  312  ;  crowding,  282  ; 
drenching,  315  ;  eating  bedding, 
312  ;  gnashing  teeth,  280  ;  gorg- 
ing grain,  315  ;  grasping  bit,  279  ; 
lugging,  281  ;  lying  down  cow- 
fashion,  311;  lying  down  in 
harness,  312  ;  outdoor,  246  ;  paw- 
ing, 309;  pulling  away,  282; 
refusing  to  stand,  284 ;  rolling, 
306;  rubbing  harness,  311;  rub- 
bing tail,  310  ;  shaking  head,  280  ; 


Index 


387 


causes,  278 ; 
tossing  head, 
stable,     314; 


sleeping  standing,  313 ;  stable, 
286  ;  striking  lips,  279  ;  stripping 
bridle,  283;  switching  tail,  314; 
tail  rubbing,  310;  tearing  blan- 
kets, 307 ;  their 
tongue  lolling,  278 
280 ;  trotting  in 
troublesome  to  catch,  285  ;  weav- 
ing, 314. 

Whip,  19  ;  and  spurs,  154  ;  caress- 
ing with,  83  ;  unsteady  under,  273. 

"Whoa,"  teaching  foal,  41  ;  teach- 
ing horse,  65  ;  what  it  stands  for, 
99. 

Wild  horses,  223  ;  acquainted  with 
robes,  239  ;  catching,  223  ;  driv- 
ing, 233  ;  familiarizing  with  noise, 
237 ;  familiarizing  with  objects, 
237;  Galvaynizing,  230;  gen- 
tling, 225,  229  ;  harnessing,  234  ; 
hitched,  235;  leading,  231;  las- 
soing, 223  ;  noise,  238  ;  Rarey- 
fying,  230  ;  shackling,  230  ;  snar- 
ing,  225  ;   strange   objects,    238  ; 


subduing,  236  ;  teaching  to  lead, 
231  ;  teaching  uses  of  the  bit, 
233  ;    training,  223. 

Wilson  bit,  320. 

Wind-galls,  373. 

Wind-puffs,  373. 

Wind-sucking,  300  ;  causes,  300  ;  bit, 
320 ;  overcome,  300 ;  see  Crib- 
bing. 

Witch-hazel,  127. 

Wooden-gag,  200. 

Woodruff,  Hiram,  328. 

Words  to  use  in  training,  99. 

Work  horse,  age  to  train,  46  ;  driv- 
ing, 129  ;  training,  44. 

Work  performed  on  training,  47. 

Wounds,  370;  treatment,  371. 

WVong,  make  difficult,   11. 

W-wire  bit,  320. 

Yankee  bridle,   189 ;  modified,  190. 
Yard  training,  111. 
"Yea,"  teaching  a  horse,  97. 
Young  colt,  training,  5. 


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